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After our chat at WHW I thought about it a lot, and decided the time and effort saved was worth it!
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Nov 13, 2015 22:16
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| # ? May 9, 2024 15:56 |
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For anyone who is interested Forgeworld have a reasonably good introduction to working with resin video. Although 'wash with soapy water' has never really worked for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UNAjik9S80&user=ForgeWorldVisualFeed
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Nov 13, 2015 23:59
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I have a few questions about epoxy putties: 1) For filling gaps in parts whose joins aren't very flush (say 2mm apart), is there a good trick to getting the edges of the putty to be smooth against the mini? I often have a hard time with it, and find myself slicing cured putty off with a knife to get it flush. I seem to be doing better now that I have silicone clay shapers, but anything else to make my life easier is cool and good. 2) Does using putty around a superglue join do much to help reinforce its strength and if so, is there a particular kind of putty that's especially good at that? Some of the pieces I have to glue together are too small to pin (although I guess I could try). 3) I see a lot of stuff about how working with putty at different points in its work period produces different results due to the changing hardness. Is there a general rule for that (e.g. work at the beginning to make hard edges, and the end for soft edges)? My tests with ProCreate seem to suggest the previous rule, but I've heard the opposite about greenstuff. If that's too general, my main question is how to sculpt stuff with pretty hard edges, like rough-cut stone. And one bonus dumb question about gluing things: does anyone have any tricks for supergluing parts that are really awkward to position? I run into cases where the superglue must be drying out by the time I manage to get some fiddly bit in the right spot, and now I have two pieces that have dried glue on them that I have to scrape off.
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Nov 14, 2015 08:02
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Avenging Dentist posted:I have a few questions about epoxy putties: Push it in with the shaper, wait for it to dry, sand or file it until it's smooth.
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Nov 14, 2015 09:21
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Push it in with the shaper, wait for it to dry, sand or file it until it's smooth. I suppose that means using not-greenstuff, since filing that is a pain in the rear end. I haven't tried ProCreate for gap-filling yet, but I assume it's about as good as greenstuff for it?
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Nov 14, 2015 09:26
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Fyrbrand posted:Thanks man. Trollbloods remind me of 40k orks in a way- not in terms of playstyle or anything, but in the sense that they often have fun, characterful sculpts. I always say you can tell when a sculptor is really into their subject, and that definitely applies to most Trollblood models.
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Nov 14, 2015 10:10
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Avenging Dentist posted:I suppose that means using not-greenstuff, since filing that is a pain in the rear end. I haven't tried ProCreate for gap-filling yet, but I assume it's about as good as greenstuff for it? Much better for filing, but not as sticky when you put it on.
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Nov 14, 2015 10:23
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Avenging Dentist posted:1) For filling gaps in parts whose joins aren't very flush (say 2mm apart), is there a good trick to getting the edges of the putty to be smooth against the mini? I often have a hard time with it, and find myself slicing cured putty off with a knife to get it flush. I seem to be doing better now that I have silicone clay shapers, but anything else to make my life easier is cool and good. Generally if you're looking to fill a flat gap between two halves of an armor plate, overfilling and sanding down will give you a superior result to trying to blend it down. All putties shrink as they cure to a greater or lesser extent, so stuff which was flush while you were working on it probably won't be after it's finished curing. Avenging Dentist posted:2) Does using putty around a superglue join do much to help reinforce its strength and if so, is there a particular kind of putty that's especially good at that? Some of the pieces I have to glue together are too small to pin (although I guess I could try). You could potentially use the putty to form a larger surface area for the superglue to grip on, but I've not had huge success reinforcing joints with superglue. Putty doesn't really have a lot of 'grab', and you will need plenty to reinforce the model properly. I assume you're thinking of some of the Infinity models? Just glue those together, mine stay together well enough without pins. A better idea for troublesome small joints is to use thick/gap-filling superglue, or to dope your superglue with talcum powder so it fills any small gaps there and helps to reinforce the bond. Avenging Dentist posted:3) I see a lot of stuff about how working with putty at different points in its work period produces different results due to the changing hardness. Is there a general rule for that (e.g. work at the beginning to make hard edges, and the end for soft edges)? My tests with ProCreate seem to suggest the previous rule, but I've heard the opposite about greenstuff. If that's too general, my main question is how to sculpt stuff with pretty hard edges, like rough-cut stone. Individual putties can change their texture according to both time and composition. If you use lots of the blue component in greenstuff, it will become harder to manipulate. As it cures and the bonds start to form in the material, it becomes more rubbery and elastic - I find this true of both putties I use (Greenstuff and Magic Sculpt). However greenstuff will never hold as hard an edge as Magic Sculpt will, and conversely, Magic Sculpt will never be as rubbery as greenstuff, despite the properties changing with curing time. I would personally recommend using separate putties depending on the effect you want to create. Many pro sculptors use brownstuff or plastic for their truly hard edges. If you want to do stone, Milliput or Magic Sculpt will do better than greenstuff. Put a layer of putty on the area you want to 'stone', then get an actual pebble with a nice texture and gently roll it about the surface, then cut the individual blocks/paving stones/bricks in. Avenging Dentist posted:And one bonus dumb question about gluing things: does anyone have any tricks for supergluing parts that are really awkward to position? I run into cases where the superglue must be drying out by the time I manage to get some fiddly bit in the right spot, and now I have two pieces that have dried glue on them that I have to scrape off. There is slow drying superglue out there. Alternatively thicker superglue takes longer to dry than the thin stuff.
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Nov 14, 2015 12:17
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Just had a read-through of today's White Dwarf (WD 94). It's a must-buy for new painters, because it has some really, really nice detailed guides/tutorials on the various painting techniques. The included poster is also really nice, showing you all the paint combinations and how they look IRL.
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Nov 14, 2015 15:46
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Speaking of painting books, anyone know of some good ones that both double as a coffee book and painting guide? Sometimes it's just nice to peruse one of those things instead of looking through my folder of pics on my laptop. I'm thinking something like the Masterclass book Angel Giraldez released about a year ago in very limited numbers.
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Nov 14, 2015 16:36
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Does anyone know what Vallejo Air paints would colour match Castellan Green and Loren Forest from GeeDubz?
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Nov 14, 2015 18:16
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On the off chance people still use them, GW have started selling double size pots of shade for a little under double the old price: http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Citadel-Shade-2015 Plus a range of
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Nov 14, 2015 18:46
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Whey yes, I will pay $15 for a water mug
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Nov 14, 2015 19:03
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Zark the Damned posted:On the off chance people still use them, GW have started selling double size pots of shade for a little under double the old price: http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Citadel-Shade-2015 That would be really cool if it wasn't so expensive. The owner of my FLG said his best selling GW item is Nuln Oil
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Nov 14, 2015 20:47
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GW washes are probably my single largest regret when it comes to  NOT GIVING GW MONEY Yeah, there are substitutes, but it'd be nice to just go buy a pot from the rack without feeling dirty. Ah well.
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Nov 14, 2015 21:03
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JerryLee posted:GW washes are probably my single largest regret when it comes to GW washes are the loveliest paints ever. I've stopped using their mainline paints for years but I still go back for the washes and metallics.
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Nov 14, 2015 21:05
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The only things that would make me buy GW washes again are Chestnut Ink/Flesh Wash/Ogryn Flesh. Since they apparently prefer eyefuckingly orange flesh shades, 
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Nov 14, 2015 21:15
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My goal is to finish painting these 32 space marines by the end of the month. They've been in some unfinished state since 2012 or later. Then I get to finally move on to my stack of unfinished vehicles  I wish I had the space to airbrush.
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Nov 14, 2015 21:28
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Thanks for all the info, Z!Z the IVth posted:Generally if you're looking to fill a flat gap between two halves of an armor plate, overfilling and sanding down will give you a superior result to trying to blend it down. All putties shrink as they cure to a greater or lesser extent, so stuff which was flush while you were working on it probably won't be after it's finished curing. Hm, I'll try that. One of the issues I have is that some of these guys will require sculpting (fairly simple) details into the putty joins, which makes all this a lot more annoying. Still, a file-able putty would probably simplify things at least. Z the IVth posted:Putty doesn't really have a lot of 'grab', and you will need plenty to reinforce the model properly. I assume you're thinking of some of the Infinity models? Just glue those together, mine stay together well enough without pins. A better idea for troublesome small joints is to use thick/gap-filling superglue, or to dope your superglue with talcum powder so it fills any small gaps there and helps to reinforce the bond. Dark Age miniatures, actually. They're by far the fiddliest guys I've ever worked with. Lots of tiny braids/ponytails that have really small contact areas. The talcum powder idea might help. I was also thinking about using an epoxy, but at the size I'm working with, it might get too messy. Z the IVth posted:I would personally recommend using separate putties depending on the effect you want to create. Many pro sculptors use brownstuff or plastic for their truly hard edges. If you want to do stone, Milliput or Magic Sculpt will do better than greenstuff. Put a layer of putty on the area you want to 'stone', then get an actual pebble with a nice texture and gently roll it about the surface, then cut the individual blocks/paving stones/bricks in. I think that's my plan; I have greenstuff and ProCreate now, but I suppose I should try out some other alternatives. ProCreate seems decent-to-good at getting hard edges, although I'm not 100% happy with it, and the cure time is ridiculously short. It might be worth trying out brownstuff (which I thought was discontinued, but it seems Privateer has some) or MagicSculp to try to get the effect I want. I've used the rock trick, which helps, although the edges I cut in don't seem quite as sharp as I'd like. Maybe next time I should actually experiment on things I don't care about first.  Z the IVth posted:There is slow drying superglue out there. Alternatively thicker superglue takes longer to dry than the thin stuff. That's worth a shot. I've heard of people putting the part in place and dripping glue onto it so it seeps into the cracks, but I'm not totally sure I believe that.
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Nov 14, 2015 21:29
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ANY time I have a fiddly bit that makes it hard to glue before the glue dries, I pin that motherfucker
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Nov 14, 2015 21:32
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signalnoise posted:ANY time I have a fiddly bit that makes it hard to glue before the glue dries, I pin that motherfucker This man knows wisdom
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Nov 14, 2015 21:49
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signalnoise posted:ANY time I have a fiddly bit that makes it hard to glue before the glue dries, I pin that motherfucker I'm not sure how I'd pin something whose entire contact point is maybe 1 mm2. 
Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Nov 14, 2015 |
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Nov 14, 2015 22:03
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With a tiny pin? What is wrong with you man
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Nov 14, 2015 22:23
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Steel wire is readily available in 0.5mm and 0.3mm here, dunno about other countries.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:26
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BULBASAUR posted:With a tiny pin? What is wrong with you man I have drill bits like that but god drat they are hard to line up correctly. Maybe I'm just bad at pinning.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:37
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Everyone is bad at pinning until they've done tons of pinning.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:39
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I sometimes glue a small piece of wire onto the tiny annoying part, then drill the bigger part so I can use the wire as a guide.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:43
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Electric Hobo posted:I sometimes glue a small piece of wire onto the tiny annoying part, then drill the bigger part so I can use the wire as a guide. You mean gluing onto the tiny part before you make a pinhole in it? That could work. Then I can test the fit and once I'm happy, remove the temporary pin, and drill the final hole. My main issue is always that I'm off by a few tenths of a millimeter and the fit looks weird.
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Nov 14, 2015 23:08
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Not my paintjob, but I was able to pin inside the shaft of this 30mm mini's scythe, because it comes in two parts. Get practicing! speaking of practice:  I don't know what happened with the wash on this, it reacted really weird over the paint. Usually it spreads more. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Nov 15, 2015 |
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Nov 15, 2015 00:34
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Avenging Dentist posted:You mean gluing onto the tiny part before you make a pinhole in it? That could work. Then I can test the fit and once I'm happy, remove the temporary pin, and drill the final hole. My main issue is always that I'm off by a few tenths of a millimeter and the fit looks weird. With smaller pins it's less of an issue since you can usually bend them a little. That or if I find I'm a little off when I test fit the pieces you can drill one of the holes bigger (or use a smaller pin) and that'll give you some adjustment.
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Nov 15, 2015 00:57
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signalnoise posted:Not my paintjob, but I was able to pin inside the shaft of this 30mm mini's scythe, because it comes in two parts. Get practicing! Wash looks good. Maybe just water it down a tiny bit and load less on the brush. When that happens to me it's usually because of pooling
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Nov 15, 2015 01:56
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signalnoise posted:Not my paintjob, but I was able to pin inside the shaft of this 30mm mini's scythe, because it comes in two parts. Get practicing! Yeah, I've managed to pin things about that size, but not much smaller. Anyway, since I have a new batch of dudes to assemble (and in a few cases, reassemble), I'll try improving my precision with pinning. One last thing: is there any appreciable difference between Apoxie Sculpt and Magic Sculp? The former is easier for me to get a hold of, but the discussion above was about the latter.
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Nov 15, 2015 02:52
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Avenging Dentist posted:Yeah, I've managed to pin things about that size, but not much smaller. Anyway, since I have a new batch of dudes to assemble (and in a few cases, reassemble), I'll try improving my precision with pinning. I would work with what you have, despite my recommendations for magic sculpt. I've seen apoxie sculpt used in similar roles before so I would assume it has a similar consistency.
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Nov 15, 2015 06:57
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Hixson posted:Just a heads up guys: Hah, I winced inside at the thought of my hobby experience being that adverse, just the nature of my condition. For me, painting is meditation, I listen to music or a movie and focus on not concentrating until hours vanish in a moment to reveal a nicely painted figurine. So, no airbrush for me, but for you wizards willing to make the attempt go for it. It's been about three months since I've painted, I'm getting a bit of a tingle about how I want to paint this Haemie that is primed but collecting dust for a while. Thanks for the inspiration. I have a three day break coming up, time to paint, then time to ham it up with some new peeps.
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Nov 15, 2015 11:10
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When you guys are doing base/shade/highlight stuff, how do you prefer to do it? Some tutorials I see say to use other colors to darken or lighten a base color. ~Duncan Rhodes~ on the other hand has every color imaginable apparently and GW makes it super easy to have a perfect match in Layer paints for highlighting a Base paint. I have a fuckload of paint, but can never seem to get a good match for shading and highlighting. Or should I even be using straight up paint for shading? Seems like there's some contention on Youtube regarding whether you should start with a midtone, wash for shading, and paint for highlight, or if you should start with your darkest color and build up another time for the midtone. At this point I'm trying to figure out how to do this most easily. I'd prefer to have a bright and vibrant style, but I get better results it seems when I'm super conservative and go with relatively dark colors. So I pick bright paints when I'm buying paints, then go back and pick more muted colors, and by the time I'm done... maybe I don't own midtones? Help
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Nov 15, 2015 18:14
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I'm sorry if this sounds patronizing or like a super basic question, but how long have you been painting? In your recent stretch, in case you've been away a while, like many. You seem to be really concerned about developing a style when it sounds like you just need to work on the fundamentals first. I think you're watching too many detail videos when maybe you should just paint more and get the basics right before trying to develop a particular look. Your look or style will come in time,it won't happen with your first few models.
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Nov 15, 2015 18:19
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krushgroove posted:I'm sorry if this sounds patronizing or like a super basic question, but how long have you been painting? In your recent stretch, in case you've been away a while, like many. Ummm like 3 years off and on? I'm capable of doing decent work but I'm generally impatient is all. Like Iron Crowned said he painted 2 models for a combined 25 hours, I will likely never do that, and I have no desire or time to do that. Maybe I'm jumping ahead a little bit in asking for color advice but you literally cannot paint this stuff without choosing colors, so I'd like to work on that. I mean what, do you expect me to basecoat a bunch of minis and not shade or highlight them for a year, for practice? signalnoise fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Nov 15, 2015 |
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Nov 15, 2015 18:21
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Maybe a strange question - But how do I get good at painting?  I've been painting off and on (mostly off) for 15 years or so, and although I consistently knock out okay miniatures of a decent tabletop quality, they're just not.. great. I feel like I've plateaued completely for the past few years. The problem is that I don't really know where to begin if I want to improve. When I want to consciously practice my instrument, for instance, I can always find some technique that I can learn or improve on. With painting, I don't even know what I can do to improve. My results just aren't that good, but I don't know how to fix it.
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Nov 15, 2015 18:39
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Geisladisk posted:Maybe a strange question - But how do I get good at painting? At risk of sounding facetious... find techniques you've not used much, and practice them. WHat sort of level are you at? What sort of advanced level techniques are you using?
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Nov 15, 2015 18:48
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| # ? May 9, 2024 15:56 |
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krushgroove posted:I'm sorry if this sounds patronizing or like a super basic question, but how long have you been painting? In your recent stretch, in case you've been away a while, like many. I think he was asking about the fundamentals? "How do I shade/highlight" sounds pretty fundamental to me!
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Nov 15, 2015 18:51
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