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Rexxed posted:It's pretty easy, you just take the colored wires and punch them down into their appropriate holes (you may need a 110 punchdown tool, I have one on my multitool but there are cheapo plastic ones available, they used to come with every keystone jack until companies decided that 10c of plastic was too expensive to give away for free). You need to check how the other ends were wired to see if they used A or B wiring so you know which wires to put where. If the previous owner or whoever hosed up the other ends by wiring them all in order or something then you redo those, too.
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Nov 16, 2015 07:16
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Vinlaen posted:So... I'm still looking at a new 24+ port switch and so far I'm considering the UniFi Switch, UniFi EdgeSwitch, and Cisco SG200. The CRS125-24G-1S-RM is a great switch but its routing performance is rather poor if try to use it as an edge device with NAT and firewall rules and such (~200mbps apparently). In a typical home network setup a consumer router will beat it for WAN <-> LAN throughput by several hundred megabits. Its not that the CRS125-24G-1S-RM is a bad device. Its just that its a switching platform with a modest router tacked on. For straight up routing I think I would prefer to go with an EdgerouterX or Edgerouter Lite but as a layer 3 switch the CRS125-24G-1S-RM looks great. Have a look at the performance numbers at the bottom of this page and see which testing scenario more closely matches your use case. Unless your budget is in the tens of thousands of dollars you are generally going to want separate devices for your routing vs your switching. The EdgerouterX almost breaks this rule but for the most part enterprise grade hardware (that doesn't cost a fortune) is either really good at routing or really good at switching, not both. Antillie fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Nov 16, 2015 |
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Nov 16, 2015 16:56
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Question about switches: Since my understanding is switches really don't do data management (or am I wrong?) why shouldn't a person just buy the cheapest "brand name" switch around? As in, something with a decent enough build quality it's not going to fall apart by looking at it? IE: what do you actually get for spending more money on a switch? Honest question and I apologize if it's stupid.
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Nov 16, 2015 17:00
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slidebite posted:Question about switches: Since all consumer grade switches are basically the same I am going to assume that you are talking about enterprise grade switches. First, features. VLAN and SNMP support are pretty standard but sometimes you need to filter traffic based on MAC addresses, implement 802.1x authentication, configure port security, do DHCP snooping or blocking, limit the number of MACs per port, use netflow, do ICMPv6 policing/filtering, do port channels, use span sessions, or do some layer 3 bridging/switching. Once you know which of these features you need you need to consider performance. Different switches do some of these things better/worse than others. Third you need to look at vendor support. How good is the support and how much does it cost. Next which vendor is your networking team already familiar with? If I have a team of 50 guys who are all used to Cisco gear then buying some Juniper EXs probably isn't the best idea because I would have to spend a pile of time and money on training or hire someone who knows Juniper EXs (either of these options is far more expensive than the switches themselves). However Arista switches might be an option as they are very similar to Cisco switches on the CLI. Finally you look at prices and licensing terms. Many enterprise grade networking devices have their features licensed with an activation key or licensing server or something. So how much does the gear cost up front and do you have to deal with any sort of licensing scheme once you own the hardware? If so, is the licensing a pain in the rear end? And of course how many ports do you need? What types of ports, Ethernet, single mode fiber, multi mode fiber, or something else? And what speed, 1gig, 10 gig, something else? Finally if you are going to put the switch somewhere that isn't a cozy office or data center does it need to be able to survive any odd environmental conditions? Factory floor near where they melt metal all day? In a box on the outside of a building in Canada? Hot? Cold? Humid? Rain? Edit: Totally forgot about support for different types of remote management infrastructure. ie: RADIUS vs TACACS+, SSH CLI vs HTTPS GUI vs central controller, ect... And then there is console access for when things break. DB9 vs RJ45 ports and different console settings so you can buy the right console servers or whatever. Antillie fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Nov 16, 2015 |
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Nov 16, 2015 17:27
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Antillie posted:The CRS125-24G-1S-RM is a great switch but its routing performance is rather poor if try to use it as an edge device with NAT and firewall rules and such (~200mbps apparently). In a typical home network setup a consumer router will beat it for WAN <-> LAN throughput by several hundred megabits. Its not that the CRS125-24G-1S-RM is a bad device. Its just that its a switching platform with a modest router tacked on. For straight up routing I think I would prefer to go with an EdgerouterX or Edgerouter Lite but as a layer 3 switch the CRS125-24G-1S-RM looks great. Have a look at the performance numbers at the bottom of this page and see which testing scenario more closely matches your use case. Thanks very much for the information. I think I've settled on the EdgeSwitch Lite (ES-48-LITE-US) for $399.99. I don't really need PoE and if I do, the prices for injectors seem to be extremely cheap. Therefore, I'd rather put the money into upgrading from a 24-port to 48-port switch. I've also considered the HP 1920-48G ($429.00) and Cisco SG300-28 ($369.27) but for some reason I seem drawn to the EdgeSwitch Lite. Anybody have any last minute suggestions to change my mind? I'm also going to purchase a patch panel to make things look nicer on my rack.
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Nov 16, 2015 17:54
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So I think my router is bricked. Months ago I installed DD-WRT on my Netgear WNR2000v3 and set it up as a repeater. It worked great for months, but last week I noticed it was off. The power plug had fallen out of the wall socket (thanks gravity). Plugging it back in usually fixed it, but not this time. All the lights came on normally but it wasn't actually broadcasting. I moved it over to my desktop and plugged it in, but was unable to access the web UI. I ran ipconfig and default gateway came up blank. I did a 30-30-30 reset to no avail. At this point I'm at a bit of a loss for what to do next. Any ideas?
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Nov 16, 2015 18:58
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Clanpot Shake posted:So I think my router is bricked. Since you reset it it should be back to whatever the default IP is (usually 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1) but the DHCP server might be misconfigured or off. Set your desktop to a static IP on the same subnet and hook it to a lan port on the router and try to load the web interface. It may be dead but if you're getting lights I'd guess it's still working and may just need to be setup again. Another typical failure of routers is just bad wall transformers, so you might check the voltage on yours with a multimeter if you have one handy.
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Nov 16, 2015 19:17
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Antillie posted:Since all consumer grade switches are basically the same I am going to assume that you are talking about enterprise grade switches. 
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Nov 16, 2015 20:30
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Vinlaen posted:Thanks very much for the information. I'd suggest getting one of the Mikrotik CRS226-24G-2S+ options. You get a 24port switch plus 2 SFP+ ports in case you want to try playing with 10g somewhere. Plus it's cheaper than any of the other options.
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Nov 16, 2015 22:00
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slidebite posted:Actually I was wondering about consumer grade not enterprise solutions, sorry for not specifying. I do appreciate your effort post though and you still did answer it in the first paragraph Pretty much if you don't need VLANs, just buy whatever that handles the speed you want. ASICs are ASICs.
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Nov 16, 2015 22:12
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Following Rukus' advice, I'm [planning on] setting up the following at my brother's restaurant over Thanksgiving:
 Where the purple, blue and green lines/cables represent different VLANs. Streakwave told me today that the UAP-ACPROUSA (UniFi AC Pro AP) is not in stock and no ETA on it. Other places appear out of stock as well. It's a 6 hour drive one-way so I'd like to leave him with working wifi. Suggestions on what to [temporarily?] replace the WAP with? I'm currently using a Linksys WRT-54G (some edition) at home but I could justify buying a new WAP/router for myself. That or buy a cheap placeholder? I'm currently running Linksys's firmware. If I turn it into "just a WAP", should I flash it w/ DD-WRT or somesuch?
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Nov 16, 2015 23:31
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Does the C7 make a good AP? (Not router, just AP) I originally had a single laptop with wireless, but now I've got kids so I have something like a dozen wireless devices going at any one time. Smaller question - what's the recommended powerline gear? I doubt any will work in this '70s era house, but it's worth trying instead of crawling around in the attic again.
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Nov 17, 2015 00:57
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Okay, change in post. For some reason, pfSense is giving the wrong default gateway to devices when pulling DHCP. Right now my computer is set to static, and it works fine. When I pull a DHCP lease however, for some reason the default gateway goes to .106 instead of .1. Pretty sure this is happening on all devices, but I haven't been able to check anything but my phone as of right now. Any ideas? e: it seems to be giving out proper DHCP info now. I'll check the ip on my computer when I get back home. A general question, it's always better to set the static in the router with the MAC address, rather than on the PC itself, correct? Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Nov 17, 2015 |
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Nov 17, 2015 02:50
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Harik posted:Does the C7 make a good AP? (Not router, just AP) I originally had a single laptop with wireless, but now I've got kids so I have something like a dozen wireless devices going at any one time. I don't see why it wouldn't. Any consumer router can do the job just fine. When running more than one AP make sure they are all on different channels but otherwise are using the same settings. (SSID, encryption, ect...)
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Nov 17, 2015 16:46
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Gothmog1065 posted:A general question, it's always better to set the static in the router with the MAC address, rather than on the PC itself, correct? Both methods have their pros and cons. For a home network it doesn't really matter. I actually use both methods. I have a PC that I tend to change the OS on frequently so its static IP is defined in the router's DHCP server. However I have the static IPs for my APs and printer defined on the devices themselves. Partly because I am not worried about a rouge DHCP server trying to hijack my network and mostly because I am lazy.
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Nov 17, 2015 16:54
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PBCrunch posted:Cross posted from the Raspberry Pi thread. I spent hours trying to figure this out, to no avail. I tried switching ports, moving my switches around, connecting things alternately via wifi and wired ethernet, reseting dd-wrt to defaults. I removed dd-wrt (this was an adventure all by itself; dd-wrt will only install another dd-wrt firmware image) and installed OpenWRT. Problem solved.
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Nov 17, 2015 17:01
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Rexxed posted:Since you reset it it should be back to whatever the default IP is (usually 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1) but the DHCP server might be misconfigured or off. Set your desktop to a static IP on the same subnet and hook it to a lan port on the router and try to load the web interface. It may be dead but if you're getting lights I'd guess it's still working and may just need to be setup again. Another typical failure of routers is just bad wall transformers, so you might check the voltage on yours with a multimeter if you have one handy. Managed to get the thing working again. Tried once again for fun after leaving it unplugged overnight and I was able to get to the GUI. Took another hard reset before I got it up and running again (for future reference, don't use the generic DD-WRT repeater guide - google your exact model). Wifi restored, but a chip on my receiver burnt out which is a whole other clusterfuck 
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Nov 17, 2015 17:09
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When using Ubiquiti Edge Routers and Access Points, do I need a machine always running to have that web configuration page up? Or, can I just run that on my laptop and turn it on when I need it?
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Nov 17, 2015 17:32
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You don't need the controller running for the EdgeRouter. For the AP unless you have something like a captive portal for guest access you don't need it running.
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Nov 17, 2015 17:55
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Figured I'd pop back in here and let you guys know (while I continue to wait for my gift cards to arrive): Target wedding or college registry 15% off codes no longer work on Electronics.  The 10% off kids wishlist code DOES work, the $5 off 50 doesn't work if you're doing site-to-store, and the cartwheel netgear coupon is dead.Granted this is such an isolated purchase that is only happening because I have gift cards, figured I'd let anyone else know if they were in the same spot.
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Nov 17, 2015 20:19
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sellouts posted:You don't need the controller running for the EdgeRouter. If he's running multiple access points it's necessary for Zero-Handoff which is a nice feature, but not entirely necessary.
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Nov 17, 2015 20:34
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ControlledBurn posted:If he's running multiple access points it's necessary for Zero-Handoff which is a nice feature, but not entirely necessary. I thought you didn't need the controller software running for zero-handoff? This forum post says you don't need the controller software running, just that your AP's need to be on the same layer2 network: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Zero-Handoff-Requirements/m-p/665201#M53005 chocolateTHUNDER fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Nov 17, 2015 |
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Nov 17, 2015 20:46
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I was sent in this direction via AI and I'd like some advice. I have an ancient Linksys WRT54G. It is the bottleneck that's preventing me from enjoying the EXTREME Time Warner Cable speeds of up to 50 Mbps that I'm paying for. I need a wireless router with at least one ethernet port for my Xbox. Devices used wirelessly include my Roku TV (right next to my modem/router), two iPhones, an iPad, and our standalone Roku in the upstairs bedroom. I'm looking for something that will work right out of the box with a minimum of setup, and don't really want to spend more than $50-75. Neither my wife or I use any actual computers at home, just iDevices/Roku/Xbox, so easy configuration (for WPA2 or whatever) is key. Suggestions?
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Nov 17, 2015 21:54
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The Midniter posted:I was sent in this direction via AI and I'd like some advice. I have reached 50 mbps just fine on that router on Tomato on old ISP. I have TWC (for two years) now and only getting around 36 mbps, which is an odd number. Haven't really cared about it, but now wondering if I'm getting ripped off, or it is somehow now a bottleneck on TWC. What is your max speed? 36/5.5 for me.
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Nov 17, 2015 22:28
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The Midniter posted:I was sent in this direction via AI and I'd like some advice. What are you using to measure throughput if you don't have a computer? Xbox live doesn't come close to maxing out my connection. I just want to make sure you're using something like http://speedof.me on your phone to see actual throughput.
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Nov 17, 2015 22:49
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PPills posted:I have reached 50 mbps just fine on that router on Tomato on old ISP. I have TWC (for two years) now and only getting around 36 mbps, which is an odd number. Haven't really cared about it, but now wondering if I'm getting ripped off, or it is somehow now a bottleneck on TWC. What is your max speed? 36/5.5 for me. If that's over 802.11g 36 down is pretty good.
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Nov 17, 2015 22:58
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PPills posted:What is your max speed? 36/5.5 for me. 50/5 per TWC. sellouts posted:What are you using to measure throughput if you don't have a computer? Ookla speed test app on my phone.
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Nov 17, 2015 23:06
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PPills posted:I have reached 50 mbps just fine on that router on Tomato on old ISP. I have TWC (for two years) now and only getting around 36 mbps, which is an odd number. Haven't really cared about it, but now wondering if I'm getting ripped off, or it is somehow now a bottleneck on TWC. What is your max speed? 36/5.5 for me. If that's wired, you're on the 30x5 extreme. They're working on upgrading everyone to the new MAXX services (Where you can get 300x65). The extra 6mbps is so they look good when doing speedtests so you're getting above the 30 that is advertised. If you put in your zip code and you see that you can 'get' extreme 50x5, then you need to reboot your modem to pull the new bin file.
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Nov 17, 2015 23:09
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The Midniter posted:50/5 per TWC. Gothmog1065 posted:If that's wired, you're on the 30x5 extreme. They're working on upgrading everyone to the new MAXX services (Where you can get 300x65). The extra 6mbps is so they look good when doing speedtests so you're getting above the 30 that is advertised. If you put in your zip code and you see that you can 'get' extreme 50x5, then you need to reboot your modem to pull the new bin file. I'm sure over the past two years I've incidentally rebooted the modem several times. I actually just rebooted it the night before. So it can't be that. I remember getting a flyer in the mail for a bundle deal and it said 50 mbps extreme, and I mentioned that when I called. Maybe because I wasn't a first time customer, or something. Who knows. I'm not really in need of it anyway. And I'm sure they'll 'upgrade your internet at no additional cost' soon, as ISPs always do, as time goes by. I was mostly just curious why the other guy wasn't getting 50 mbps on that router, when I have pulled 50 mbps just fine, with my previous local ISP.
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Nov 18, 2015 09:39
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PPills posted:No I meant on a speed test right now, since you said you weren't enjoying the full benefit of 50 mbps. Pretty sure it's not possible to get 50 down on G Wifi because of overhead that goes on with it. I've never seen one do it, maybe if it was completely unencrypted. As for the TWC Thing, if you're paying for extreme, you should get either 50 or 30 package, depending on what is available. You automatically get the upgrade once they have all the channels off analog.
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Nov 18, 2015 15:37
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:I thought you didn't need the controller software running for zero-handoff? This is correct. However I can't think of why anyone would want to use zero hand off in a home network anyway. All it really does 99% of the time is introduce more channel interference.
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Nov 18, 2015 16:06
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Gothmog1065 posted:Pretty sure it's not possible to get 50 down on G Wifi because of overhead that goes on with it. I've never seen one do it, maybe if it was completely unencrypted. If you can get even half of the rated wifi speed in any situation (on any wifi spec b, a, g, n, ac...) you are doing incredibly well. Most of the time the best you can get is about a third. Real world throughput on wifi is so wildly different from the rated speeds in all cases I am astounded that there hasn't been a lawsuit over it. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 16:12
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Antillie posted:If you can get even half of the rated wifi speed in any situation (on any wifi spec b, a, g, n, ac...) you are doing incredibly well. Most of the time the best you can get is about a third. Real world throughput on wifi is so wildly different from the rated speeds in all cases I am astounded that there hasn't been a lawsuit over it. Some of my proudest moments from MSP/retail work involved getting people (including the ones I worked for) to accept that they weren't going to get full wired speed over wifi and that 60-70% was actually really good. These moments seldom happened.
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Nov 18, 2015 16:24
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Antillie posted:If you can get even half of the rated wifi speed in any situation (on any wifi spec b, a, g, n, ac...) you are doing incredibly well. Most of the time the best you can get is about a third. Real world throughput on wifi is so wildly different from the rated speeds in all cases I am astounded that there hasn't been a lawsuit over it. Yeah, I thought there was so much packet loss/overhead/stuff going on that when someone hit 30mb on a g connection, they were doing fantastic NOW DON'T MOVE SO YOU DON'T LOSE IT.
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Nov 18, 2015 16:40
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PPills posted:No I meant on a speed test right now, since you said you weren't enjoying the full benefit of 50 mbps. Since TWC rebooted my modem and I rebooted my router, the fastest I've gotten (as of last night) has been 14.02 down and 5.98 up. I'm on the 50/5 Extreme plan. Prior to last night, the fastest I've gotten in my current location over wifi was 13.63 down, back in July...shortly after I called TWC to bitch about slow speeds, after which they sent a tech out to replace my modem with a new one. I'm not exactly sure when they started upgrading their customer "at no cost" to the Extreme speeds, but it was some time this year since they're terrified of the incoming Google Fiber.
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Nov 18, 2015 19:25
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Sounds like a crappy signal, the tech probably didn't check. If you want me to help you check, PM me (Or email me - my username @ gmail.com)
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Nov 18, 2015 19:43
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Inspector_666 posted:Some of my proudest moments from MSP/retail work involved getting people (including the ones I worked for) to accept that they weren't going to get full wired speed over wifi and that 60-70% was actually really good. I get full wired speed over my wifi no problem  Full speed for my 25/5 dsl 
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Nov 18, 2015 19:45
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Gothmog1065 posted:Sounds like a crappy signal, the tech probably didn't check. If you want me to help you check, PM me (Or email me - my username @ gmail.com) It sounds more like he just has a slow, wireless G router; I've got 60/6 Comcast and was only getting those speeds while physically connected to my router; testing on a wireless N (2.4ghz band) connection dropped my results to between 10-15Mbps downstream. Without physically plugging in it's unlikely he'd be able to get anywhere near his max speeds, especially on a wireless G connection. @The Midniter, I've had good luck with Archer products; the C7 is what I have and it's fantastic, setup out of the box was extremely easy. It's a bit above your price range but it's got great reviews and if you keep your SSID (wireless network name) & password the same you should be able to just swap routers out with no issues. It also supports dual-band (2.4ghz & 5ghz) SSIDs so you can set up a separate (faster) network for your devices that can take advantage of 5ghz and keep your older slower stuff on the 2.4ghz band. It looks like the Archer C2 supports a lot of the same features and is within your price range, but it's a bit slower on the top-end of things.
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Nov 18, 2015 20:01
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slidebite posted:I get full wired speed over my wifi no problem Hey now, that is a really good speed. For 2010 
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Nov 18, 2015 23:37
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The Midniter posted:I'm not exactly sure when they started upgrading their customer "at no cost" to the Extreme speeds, but it was some time this year since they're terrified of the incoming Google Fiber. For what it's worth they're doing this in areas that don't have the threat of google fiber.
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Nov 19, 2015 09:12
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