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I have comprehensive with Progressive and didn't have to do all that crap about how it's locked up.
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Nov 11, 2015 16:34
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Yeah American insurance tends to be a lot more laid back about comprehensive coverage. State Farm adjusters just commiserated when I got 2 675s stolen in the course of about 9 months.
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Nov 11, 2015 17:42
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I have comp* but I have never had to use it. Closest to stolen it got was when I stored it outside at my friend's house for a year the neighborhood watch got the cops to come out because they thought I was stealing my bike. Yes. I'm sitting here in broad daylight, idling a fuckoff loud bike up to temp to prep for stealing it hahaha. * come to think of it I haven't used collision or liability either
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Nov 11, 2015 18:05
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One of my friends is an insurance product designer for a national motorcycle insurance leader*. Her insight into this is that industry wide, theft is going to be the major driver of comprehensive premium cost, and most of that is going to be based off your garaging zip code, despite any countermeasures you have in place. Additionally, living in an apartment/townhouse/condo will jack up your comprehensive premium, as those living situations tend to be more conducive to having your bike stolen, apparently. *her words, to make herself sound fancy by her own admission.
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Nov 11, 2015 18:24
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Only one of these could be secured through the frame, but the other was basically theft proof anyway.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:02
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High Protein posted:Only one of these could be secured through the frame, but the other was basically theft proof anyway. Just tie it to the Buell.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:51
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Grease/lube chat: I've already ordered some chain lube, and since I'm gonna be removing the wheels to change tyres, was about to throw a tube of copper grease into my cart as well (also use on bolts/fasteners as I work on the bike). What other types might I need, or what can I get away with substituting in their place? Was thinking I might be doing front brake cable/lever, throttle, etc (they're not bad, but might as well). Seem to remember a mechanic using regular motor oil + a funnel for cables on my Minsk. Edit: also, about to buy some tyres/tubes, would kind of prefer to defer the sprockets + chain for the time being. How bad do these rear sprocket teeth look? I may only have the bike for another ~5 months/couple thousand kms, so I am tempted to skip it entirely. Chain is a bit loose but there is plenty of room left to adjust left on the swingarm, at least.  Renaissance Robot posted:The catch is that if you don't use one of the security devices you've told them you're using and your bike gets nicked, they won't pay out. Out of curiosity, how would they know? Ola posted:Just tie it to the Buell. 
Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 23:36
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I use the following: WD40. Motor oil. Penetrating oil. Chain lube. Bearing grease. That's really it.
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Nov 12, 2015 00:07
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Out of curiosity, how would they know? Just because I can't think of an answer doesn't mean insurance fraud is a good idea.
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Nov 12, 2015 00:53
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Those teeth are getting pretty worn out, but they're probably ok to ride on for a while. No missing teeth or ones that are obviously hooked, right? Consider though that they definitely need replacement in the future, so if you're going to sell the bike, you may as well fix it so that it's one less thing for buyers to haggle about, and then you're riding on safer parts for the next few months anyway. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Nov 12, 2015 |
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Nov 12, 2015 00:53
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Out of curiosity, how would they know? Over here they make you use an alarm that sends your phone a message when activated (SMS or through an app). Many places have cameras, so it's easy to see if your bike was locked. They also question the poo poo out of you and try to spot any inconsistencies. Do you always lock your bike? Was there any a time when you didn't lock your bike, even for a little bit like when jumping to the store? (- Yes) Is it possible that you didn't lock it up this time as well? (Don't say "uhh" here.)
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Nov 12, 2015 02:20
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Sagebrush posted:Those teeth are getting pretty worn out, but they're probably ok to ride on for a while. No missing teeth or ones that are obviously hooked, right? Good pointl, they weren't anymore hooked/damaged than in that pic, but it was only AU$68 for the set anyhow (+$13 for a chain breaker, realised my bicycle one was too small). I was tempted to go up to a 16T front sprocket, but with the steep inclines around here I think I'm better off leaving it stock. Not a lot of high-speed carriageways in Tasmania anyhow. With the tyres/tubes I just ordered this morning, already up to $540 of stuff on a $700 bike  To be fair a decent bit of that are tools/lubricants/etc that are one-time purchases, or will at least last several years. Renaissance Robot posted:Just because I can't think of an answer doesn't mean insurance fraud is a good idea. Kane posted:Over here they make you use an alarm that sends your phone a message when activated (SMS or through an app). Ah, was just curious. I've never owned a bike worth insuring for damage/theft, I just make sure I'm covered against third party stuff and personal injury for myself. builds character posted:I use the following: I've always thought of WD-40 as a penetrating oil, is there stuff you'd use a different type/brand for?
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Nov 12, 2015 05:16
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Good pointl, they weren't anymore hooked/damaged than in that pic, but it was only AU$68 for the set anyhow (+$13 for a chain breaker, realised my bicycle one was too small). I was tempted to go up to a 16T front sprocket, but with the steep inclines around here I think I'm better off leaving it stock. Not a lot of high-speed carriageways in Tasmania anyhow. Bolts that are stuck. I've had better success with an actual penetrating oil than WD40. Particularly when they were upside down.
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Nov 12, 2015 05:46
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WD40 is actually not a penetrating oil, it's a water dispersant.
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Nov 12, 2015 05:49
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I basically just use WD-40 for cleaning off grime and protecting bare metal temporarily. If you need oil, use oil. If you need grease, use grease. Etc. I did actually use WD-40 inside an ignition switch for its intended purpose recently, though.
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Nov 12, 2015 07:34
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Pope Mobile posted:I don't really care about theft. While I am attached to my bike, I know I'll get reimbursed for more than it's worth along with any gear that's stolen. Yup.
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Nov 16, 2015 00:09
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Of all the errands I remembered to do when I had a car yesterday (hired it for a job interview), naturally stopping at the auto supply store on the other side of town for grease, penetrating oil, and ED-40 was the one thing I forgot  Parts are slowly trickling by post for the big maintenance session I'm going to do, although I'm still waiting on the main ones (tyres, sprockets and chain). In the meantime, I scored an old 11L plastic motorbike tank at the tip yesterday morning. I liked the idea of adding the extra tank to the postie (I think they've got a range of about 130kms on the stock one alone otherwise) but had decided I'd probably skip it, since I don't think I'll get the opportunity to do many long trips on it... for $20 I couldn't say no though  Did have to dig around for a cap and petcock at the wreckers (petcock was a new part so the two actually wound up costing a little more than I paid for the tank itself), but still well under the $120 that they seem to start at on eBay. It's got a fair bit of dirt and a few spiderwebs inside from sitting out in the elements, what's the best way to clean it out? I'm seeing stuff about chucking a bunch of screws/nuts/bolts in with some acetone and shaking it around, although I'm a little concerned about scratching up the inside of it (or does that not matter)? As far as fitting it:  The front of it does rest nicely on the frame when it's level, in such a way that the handlebars don't hit it when turning. Unfortunately if I try to tilt it to follow the tube down along its entire length, it does mess with the handlebars, and also touches the exhaust.  As for the back, it will just rest on the lip of the internal gas tank. Not intended to be load-bearing, but does help for balance. Does restrict how much the seat will lift up on its hinge to access the stock gas tank, but not by enough to make filling it too onerous. Was thinking of putting a PVC tube with some assorted tools/spares down inside the gap.  Downside is that while the frame does have tank mounting brackets built into it, they don't line up well with those of this tank. What's the easiest way to make an adapter? I was thinking of using cardboard to make a template and figure out the measurements I need, then getting some metal about the thickness of the tank's existing mounts and having someone with a drill press punch out holes for bolts on either end. It's mostly for stability and to keep the tank from bouncing up rather than to hold it up, as the tank would be resting most of its weight on the frame... was thinking I'd probably get some scraps of wood and cut them to fit the gap between the frame and tank for added load-bearing stability (and having all that random useless space below me just kinda irks me for some reason). Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 03:51
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I ended up using some old kayak backband straps (flexible plastic), a little hardware, and some luck for the front of mine, and then the back was a 2" muffler clamp with a bar welded across it as a support. The tank just rests on the rear support, but you do have to tie it down to something to keep it tensed against the mount. http://hondatrailcts.yuku.com/reply/51456/Long-Range-Tank-tutorial This is the most helpful thread I've found, although I opted for a much simpler front mount made from poo poo I had in the shed. 
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Nov 18, 2015 22:54
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In today's fun repair news, I went to swap the new 6V headlight bulb that came in the mail this week in... aaaand it turns out the socket for the 12V bulb he had in there is also different. I had initially assumed the PO put the 12V bulb in there out of blind ignorance because it also fit, but since he went through the trouble of replacing it with a different socket to accommodate it, it appears to have been a calculated dumb move instead. Fortunately there are a couple of other small parts I forgot to put on my last order, so I emailed the shop that hooked me up last time to see if he had any 6V sockets in inventory. I could also try the wrecker in town, but IDK how many pre-91 bikes they'd have parts off of, plus they're 15kms north of me and I kinda want a functioning headlight before I get out on the road with this thing.INTERNETRACECAR posted:I ended up using some old kayak backband straps (flexible plastic), a little hardware, and some luck for the front of mine, and then the back was a 2" muffler clamp with a bar welded across it as a support. The tank just rests on the rear support, but you do have to tie it down to something to keep it tensed against the mount. That is awesome and super helpful, thanks! I was initially balking at the idea of working with aluminium, but I saw that he was able to use a reciprocating saw to do it, which I just happen to have picked up earlier this week for another project. I can't tell from your picture (or his), but how close to the exhaust is that bottom corner of the tank? If I did it my original way (with the fin part of the tank resting lightly on the lip of the stock tank) it'd be nowhere near the exhaust, but you guys' look really close, and I wouldn't necessarily mind getting it lower and not having to worry about making that internal support brace out of wood or whatever. Also, do you have racks for the panniers in the picture, or are they OK just hanging against the exhaust shield? I've got a pair of waterproof Ortlieb bags I really like, would be nice to supplement the cargo rack with 'em. There's an eBay seller who has the stock postie pannier racks that I've been thinking about, but again, not sure I'll be doing much loaded-up touring on the little guy, so trying not to get too much invested in farkles.
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Nov 19, 2015 05:53
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What's the current tire of choice for heavy sport bikes around here? Getting new shoes for the ZRX and I want something great in the rain since El Niño season might be coming.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:17
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PR4s have a steel banded variety for heavier bikes.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:43
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Shimrod posted:PR4s have a steel banded variety for heavier bikes. Or fatter goons. They're also pretty good in the rain.
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Nov 19, 2015 16:07
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Chichevache posted:What's the current tire of choice for heavy sport bikes around here? Getting new shoes for the ZRX and I want something great in the rain since El Niño season might be coming. Just get ordinary PR3's/PR4's, mine barely wore at all before I sold the bike and I did a lot of miles on it. The touring rear is only really a good idea if you have a truly gigantic bike or you plan on riding around everywhere with a passenger and luggage, it sacrifices a lot of grip for the sake of being super hard wearing.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:55
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The regular PR2s on my Ulysses lasted for like 10,000 miles before I wrecked the rear on a patch of rusty staples and the PR3s another 10k before I sold the bike wearing them. I told the guy how many miles were on those tires and he looked at me like I'm an idiot. "They only show a couple thousand miles" "Bro I put those on before I left for Texas and then I took them to Reno too" Granted, the Uly is lighter than your typical heavy sport bike, but those tires truly wear like iron. They even kept traction on terrifying-when-wet Texas roads.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:13
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Welp, there's my next big spend on the ZZR
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Nov 19, 2015 20:19
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Dunno what magic everyone does to get 10k miles out of a rear tire but send some my way.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:34
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Pilot Road magic, get you some. I've never worn out a Pilot Road, this one was at 10,000ish:  The Metzelers I have now probably will last about 8k. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 20:37
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I did. watch your pressures, kids. You might only get a nominal amount of miles out of them. (I think mine did about 11k miles)
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Nov 19, 2015 20:45
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Baller Witness Bro posted:Dunno what magic everyone does to get 10k miles out of a rear tire but send some my way. I run them on a FZ6 and only manage 8k and I'm smooth on the throttle. I think they're all liars.
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Nov 20, 2015 02:27
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I've got over 10,000 on my pirelli angel gt rear with my fz6. Plenty of tread left.
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Nov 20, 2015 02:39
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It's all about how you ride, I have a set of PR4s on my ZZR with 26,000kms on them and still enough tread for another 5000 or so, I'll probably get roughly the same from my ZX10R.
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Nov 20, 2015 03:13
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If you're getting 30,000km's out of PR4's on a zx10 there's something wrong somewhere. Are you sure your throttle isn't sticking shut or something?
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Nov 20, 2015 03:14
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Guess I'm just a badass rider then I dunno
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Nov 20, 2015 03:17
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nsaP posted:Guess I'm just a badass rider then I dunno It's ok, you're not. I got the same on my PR4 rear with the same bike. I think it's more likely that goons are letting the drat things go past the wear bar and right down to the cords. e: Shimrod posted:It's all about how you ride, I have a set of PR4s on my ZZR with 26,000kms on them and still enough tread for another 5000 or so, I'll probably get roughly the same from my ZX10R. Full disclosure: -I don't do burnouts and don't use my rear brake for much other than settling the rear end end of the bike when I'm braking hard on the front. -Normally I shift around 6k because noise and there's no real reason to be at 13k on city streets. -I also don't launch that often, and when I do decide to haul rear end it's usually rolling on in second to get around something dumb on a highway. The tires are good, but god drat, are you 110lbs with gear and running max psi or something? Marxalot fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Nov 20, 2015 |
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Nov 20, 2015 03:50
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I think he's lying.
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Nov 20, 2015 04:07
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Marxalot posted:Or fatter goons. I am 170 right now, rear end. t  (PRs it will be! Thanks for the good advice everyone!)
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Nov 20, 2015 04:27
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so you're 5'4"?
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Nov 20, 2015 04:37
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cursedshitbox posted:so you're 5'4"? 
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Nov 20, 2015 04:39
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cursedshitbox posted:so you're 5'4"? Would it make riding the drz more impressive?
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Nov 20, 2015 04:46
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KARMA! posted:I did. This man speaks the truth. A whole season of riding and they were fine. A few hundred miles of commuting the following year and I had loving flat spotted them. I forgot to check the pressure after the weather chilled out for a bit. I also did a burnout in dead stop traffic because reasons. So that might have contributed to it.
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Nov 20, 2015 04:55
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