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Pr0kjayhawk posted:You are a true hero. My previous DD was an E46 M3 'vert - which I loved and would still be driving if getting the kids in/out of the back wasn't a total pain in the dick. My other fun car is a fully track-prepared '84 911. The F80 is considerably larger than the E46 without really feeling that way. On the E46, that infant carrier required the front passenger seat to be moved so far forward that my 5'3" wife could not sit in it. Whereas on the F80, not only can she now fit, but even I (all 6' of me) do too. If you need a back seat for adults instead of children, it's a plenty comfortable place for them. At the same time, it doesn't feel that much bigger from behind the wheel. The most noticeable change is the beltline height and everything wears its sheet metal that much higher these days. The F80 is much, much faster than the E46. Even taking it easy for break-in, it's easy to tell how much faster this thing is - totally different performance class. Walked it up to 140 on the autobahn without much of an effort, and I found myself having to make a conscious effort to keep the cruising speed down to 110 per break-in instructions. Back at home and keeping to around 80 on the freeway is barely getting the car warmed up. The HUD helps here to keep me aware of speed while I recalibrate my brain on just how much go a little squeeze of the gas delivers. BMW's engineers did a hell of a job hiding the turbo lag, too. In sport or sport + mode the engine is always ready to go, all of the time, in the first nanosecond you get on the throttle. Compares very favorably to the throttle response of my two NA benchmarks. Driving around on public roads, the handling is crisp without being punishing (911) or prone to crashing over broken pavement (E46). I did get the adaptive suspension, and comfort mode definitely helps with our lovely city streets. Sport made nice work of the German back roads. I haven’t driven the F80 at the track yet, but I'm expecting good manners with moderate understeer at the limit. If you're looking at real back seat + real manual + comparable performance, there's not much else out there. M5, Panamera, Caddy-V's, maybe the Guilia if you like to live dangerously ... everything else I can think of would need to compromise at least one of those 3 criteria.
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Nov 18, 2015 04:53
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MrChips posted:The even more hilarious thing is that the M5 still has the E60's standard 70 liter fuel tank (18.5 US gallons). That was my main complaint about it - the range is total bullshit.
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Nov 18, 2015 05:18
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MrChips posted:I have to wonder how much of this is your fault rather than that of the car. I've jumped my own car a couple times (and a few other very modern BMWs, like E60s and E9xs) with literally no issues whatsoever. I followed the procedure laid out in the manual: use post in the bay, ground to frame. Maybe it was just a fluke, but its not a choice I'd be willing to gamble on, again.
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Nov 18, 2015 14:22
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:I was looking at NT01's for tires, and the only 245 I saw was a 245/45/17. Koseis are fine for the price, ANY track wheel is going to be a consumable. I've never seen any catastrophic failures from them, the spokes crack and you notice it when taking the wheels off. Apex is more durable, but more expensive. On the flip side, you should be running as wide a wheel as you can for sidewall cantilever. But I also like to stuff as much rubber as I can under the car because it is both autoX/track. Current competition tires are 245/40/17 goodyears that bulge on 17x9s. Still thinking about trying to fit a 17x9.5 under there, the new Hoosier a7s are comically wide in 245.
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Nov 18, 2015 14:46
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Thanks for the feedback. I have no idea how many track miles the current wheels have, so they need to get replaced. I may start with some Kosei's and new tires. I'd like to have an extra set, so I can always go to the Apex's next and keep one pair as backups/rain, whatever. I'll be at the track this weekend. Maybe someone will let me test fit some wheels with hoosier's so I can see how they go.
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Nov 18, 2015 17:04
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BlackMK4 posted:US E36 M3 prices are going to crater when the S50 euro cars start coming in. And to underline how old they are getting the E36 is also is the archive section now at REALOEM along with the E30. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 17:06
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:What cars have you owned in the past and how does the F80 compare? I need something with actual back seats and a manual. The F80 is on my short list. If you have the means get one. I'm glad I didn't lease because I have no intentions of getting a new car in 3 years. Did a 1,200 mile road trip last weekend and even without a 7th gear it was great on the road. It wasnt as frugal on gas as my old E46 M3, but it managed around 26-28mpg at 3,200rpm/85mph the whole way. Of course that gas mileage went to poo poo as soon as we got to some back roads, but its worth noting the car holds its own there as well. Turbo lag exists, but in sport plus throttle its drat near unnoticeable. (Less so in the lighter throttle settings) The only thing I'd warn is that the car is really tail happy, which most people seem to be into, but some would probably find off putting. Expect to replace your 275 rears twice as often as the fronts.
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Nov 18, 2015 17:32
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Lightbulb Out posted:My friend has had all sorts of issues with his E60 M5, but most of them have been related to the SMG. However, he had some VANOS issues on his and it's cost him a shitload of money on various things. I hear the SMG from the e60 M5 isn't all that terrible (aside from the hydraulic pumps making GBS threads the bed). Plus you get another gear and it will shift faster than you ever can with the 6MT version. The car was designed around the SMG gearbox after all. The 6MT cars are rarer but of course, much less costly to keep it maintained. More fun too.
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Nov 18, 2015 18:01
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:If you have the means get one. I'm glad I didn't lease because I have no intentions of getting a new car in 3 years. Did a 1,200 mile road trip last weekend and even without a 7th gear it was great on the road. It wasnt as frugal on gas as my old E46 M3, but it managed around 26-28mpg at 3,200rpm/85mph the whole way. Of course that gas mileage went to poo poo as soon as we got to some back roads, but its worth noting the car holds its own there as well. Turbo lag exists, but in sport plus throttle its drat near unnoticeable. (Less so in the lighter throttle settings) The 7th gear wouldn't do anything. The DCT has no overdrives, the 7th gear is 1.0. For normal cars the final drive is 2.56 and it looks like the M3 has 3.1 final drive. Despite having another gear, they are tuned to be around the top speed. I love the DCT in my 1er but I really wish I could have a taller 7th gear for better gas mileage on the highway.
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Nov 18, 2015 18:31
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Might want to check your source on that. BMW says gears 6 and 7 in the DCT are over drives (.84 and .67 ratios) and the final drive is 3.46 for both transmissions.
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Nov 18, 2015 18:35
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EL Bombastico posted:I hear the SMG from the e60 M5 isn't all that terrible (aside from the hydraulic pumps making GBS threads the bed). Plus you get another gear and it will shift faster than you ever can with the 6MT version. The car was designed around the SMG gearbox after all. He loves the car and the SMG, it's just loving expensive - especially when it breaks.
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Nov 18, 2015 18:55
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Lightbulb Out posted:He loves the car and the SMG, it's just loving expensive - especially when it breaks. The SMG is amazing when poo poo works, and with a V10 that revs to the moon, its pretty much a race car with a sedan body plopped on it. But it seems like its an absolute oval office to live with on a daily basis. E39 M5 would be easier to live with as a DD
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Nov 18, 2015 20:53
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SlapActionJackson posted:Might want to check your source on that. BMW says gears 6 and 7 in the DCT are over drives (.84 and .67 ratios) and the final drive is 3.46 for both transmissions. Maybe they changed it. The E8x/E9x DCT for non M's is 1:1 in 7th gear and 2.56.
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Nov 18, 2015 21:35
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The SMG is amazing when poo poo works, and with a V10 that revs to the moon, its pretty much a race car with a sedan body plopped on it. But it seems like its an absolute oval office to live with on a daily basis. E39 M5 would be easier to live with as a DD No, it's an amazing car to live with on a daily basis, but the time's where it shits itself it's a huge expensive pain in the rear end. The guy that I know with one is like "where else can I find a car that's this nice, fast, and 4 doors for the price?". He's moving to a F10 when they depreciate a bit more.
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Nov 18, 2015 21:42
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Lightbulb Out posted:No, it's an amazing car to live with on a daily basis, but the time's where it shits itself it's a huge expensive pain in the rear end. I figured it would be a pain in the rear end. Thats good to hear that its easy to live with. But I can't get behind the F10, I want to hear what it sounds like, not mimic sounds from the speakers.
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Nov 18, 2015 21:52
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:If you have the means get one. I'm glad I didn't lease because I have no intentions of getting a new car in 3 years. Did a 1,200 mile road trip last weekend and even without a 7th gear it was great on the road. It wasnt as frugal on gas as my old E46 M3, but it managed around 26-28mpg at 3,200rpm/85mph the whole way. Of course that gas mileage went to poo poo as soon as we got to some back roads, but its worth noting the car holds its own there as well. Turbo lag exists, but in sport plus throttle its drat near unnoticeable. (Less so in the lighter throttle settings) I'm surprised they made it tail happy. I'm perfectly ok with that on a front-engined RWD car. Thanks to both of you for the feedback. There's a good chance this is what I end up with. Is it possible/realistic to test drive an M3/M4 prior to purchasing or do I need to find someone local to give me a ride? I'm not sure how I forgot about this car but the Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio is seriously tempting. I mean, Italian sedan with Ferrari-derived engine should be enough to make a sane person run in terror but it seems like such a compelling option. I think I read ~1500kg which is quite a bit lighter than the F80/F82 and it has a touch more power. I have to assume depreciation will hit those cars HARD though. Between that and expected base price of ~$70k I think it may be a bit much for me.
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Nov 19, 2015 01:55
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Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:I'm surprised they made it tail happy. I'm perfectly ok with that on a front-engined RWD car. If it comes out at $70K before any incentives you may be able to get a screaming deal on one as a lease. I know Maserati is desperately trying to sell their cars to the point their nationally advertised lease on the Ghibli SQ4 is $814 per month / 36 month / 10K miles on a $87K MSRP vehicle. Depending on how the residuals work out I could see a payment in the $600 range for the Alfa. Personally, I would never buy a car like the Alfa as the depreciation is going to assuredly be catastrophic and it doesn't seem like the kind of car you'd want to maintain out of warranty.
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Nov 19, 2015 13:05
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Thoughts / opinions on a 2011-2012 335is? They didn't make them in a sedan did they?
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Nov 19, 2015 14:40
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Yes they made sedans.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:43
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:Is it possible/realistic to test drive an M3/M4 prior to purchasing or do I need to find someone local to give me a ride? An M3 might be a challenge just because they're in such short supply at the moment. M4 should be possible.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:44
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PenisMonkey posted:Yes they made sedans. Hot drat I was unaware of this...commence thinking about really bad decisions...
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Nov 19, 2015 17:25
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Mr-Spain posted:Thoughts / opinions on a 2011-2012 335is? They didn't make them in a sedan did they? They did not make the 335iS as a sedan. E9x coupes look so blah compared to the sedans.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:04
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Oh, I thought he meant the plural of 335i.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:14
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Just had to jump my beater e39. Did not cost $1000.
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Nov 19, 2015 23:37
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Mr-Spain posted:Thoughts / opinions on a 2011-2012 335is? They didn't make them in a sedan did they? I currently drive an E92 335is (coupe). I absolutely love it. The N54 is a terrific motor. DCT has some sluggish tendencies but is a wonder in manual shifting mode. What specifically are you wanting to know? 335is did not arrive in sedan version.
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Nov 20, 2015 04:38
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Thought on this 135i? http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5310613801.html It's not black or a convertible, so there's that.
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Nov 20, 2015 04:53
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Looks pretty good. Ask him if the high pressure fuel pump has been replaced.
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Nov 20, 2015 05:18
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Absolutely. If I contact, first info I need is hpfp status, VIN, and ability to complete emissions cycle. I'm trying hard to talk myself out of this, though.
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Nov 20, 2015 05:35
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Dislike button posted:If it comes out at $70K before any incentives you may be able to get a screaming deal on one as a lease. I know Maserati is desperately trying to sell their cars to the point their nationally advertised lease on the Ghibli SQ4 is $814 per month / 36 month / 10K miles on a $87K MSRP vehicle. Depending on how the residuals work out I could see a payment in the $600 range for the Alfa. Personally, I would never buy a car like the Alfa as the depreciation is going to assuredly be catastrophic and it doesn't seem like the kind of car you'd want to maintain out of warranty. I'm not sure I'll ever understand leasing (unless your company or business pays for it). Maybe I haven't been caught up in a situation where a newer car saw a lot of depreciation. I sold the Boxster Spyder for $4k less than I paid after two years but I suppose that was a special case. The math just never seems to work out. Admittedly with a conventional loan you pay more while you have the car but you typically recoup more of it after the sale. With leases it's just all gone, forever (plus damages or over mileage). I've just never been in a situation where I lost a lot of money between the purchase and eventual sale of a car. Maybe I'll feel that pain when I pay full price for a brand new German car and try to sell it a few years later. Good point about the residual rate on the Alfa. Might make a better CPO car in 2-3 years? Unfortunately we need people that do not fear depreciation to buy them. It's tough to shake a reputation it seems.
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Nov 20, 2015 08:13
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:I'm not sure I'll ever understand leasing (unless your company or business pays for it). Maybe I haven't been caught up in a situation where a newer car saw a lot of depreciation. I sold the Boxster Spyder for $4k less than I paid after two years but I suppose that was a special case. If you always want the latest and greatest, don't mind always having a car payment, and can stay within the mileage, leasing is a great idea. Financially it may not always be the best idea, but always trading in for the latest model isn't the best idea financially in general. E: I could see some cars where it's probably the best idea. EVs for example. There is an area of rapid technological change coupled with an uncertainty about reliability. Leasing nicely avoids both potential problems. Brock Landers fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Nov 20, 2015 |
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Nov 20, 2015 13:23
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:I'm not sure I'll ever understand leasing (unless your company or business pays for it). Maybe I haven't been caught up in a situation where a newer car saw a lot of depreciation. I sold the Boxster Spyder for $4k less than I paid after two years but I suppose that was a special case. The thing that people always miss when talking about leasing is that you aren't left with nothing, you're left with the option to buy the car out at a price that was predetermined years ago. That price can be the same, higher, or lower than what the car is actually worth now. In some cases, that can work to your benefit (people who leased escalades when fuel prices went up). Sometimes leasing works out better than buying. Sometimes the reverse is true. Both are always going to be more expensive than buying a beater miata/bmw.
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Nov 20, 2015 13:36
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Residency Evil posted:The thing that people always miss when talking about leasing is that you aren't left with nothing, you're left with the option to buy the car out at a price that was predetermined years ago. That price can be the same, higher, or lower than what the car is actually worth now. In some cases, that can work to your benefit (people who leased escalades when fuel prices went up). Sometimes leasing works out better than buying. Sometimes the reverse is true. Both are always going to be more expensive than buying a beater miata/bmw. Exactly, plus you have the benefit of lower payments via a lease as you are only "buying" a portion of the car.. In the situation previously mentioned with buying the Boxster and reselling it later for a few thousand less, leasing would provide you with lower cash outflows during your period of ownership. If you decided that you could sell it for only $4K less than the purchase price you could just buy it and sell it private party at the end of the lease. If you went way over your miles you could also just buy it. Depending on the interest rates there is virtually zero downside. In the case of the Alfa I would guess that their estimates for the residual value are going to be optimistic versus what the market will dictate. Of course, I could be wrong but why risk being on the hook for $40k of depreciation when you can offset some of that risk?
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Nov 20, 2015 15:18
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Double post! If I was going to buy an M4 it'd be a manual, for the record
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Nov 20, 2015 15:19
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Leasing is manufacturer specific as well, BMW subsidizes their leases which is why they're so competitive compared to Audi. Fundamentally though, there is no difference between paying 10k in lease payments over 3 years and then writing a check for 20k to buyout the car vs. buying with a 20k downpayment and a 10k 3 year loan, it all comes down to the interest rates/money factor of each deal. I think the rule of not leasing a car you couldn't otherwise afford to buy is sound though. We leased a honda a few years ago, it was the first year for that particular CVT transmission and I was worried about teething problems. It's been a solid car though, so in the summer of next year we'll buy it instead of turning it in. If it had turned out to be a lemon, leasing provides an easy escape.
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Nov 20, 2015 16:28
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With knowledge of money factors, residuals, and the ability to put up to 7 multiple security deposits down that are refundable and basically earn you interest, 3-year leasing a mid-to-higher end BMW makes perfect sense and mostly, cheaper than buying. Especially if you don't want to own the car after the warranty/maintenance expires.
Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Nov 20, 2015 |
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Nov 20, 2015 19:20
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Dislike button posted:Double post! If I was going to buy an M4 it'd be a manual, for the record I'm pretty sure like 4 out of the 5 or 6 F8X owners on here ordered a manual. 3-4 months is a hell of a wait, but its worth it. Also my over simplified theory on leasing is go for it if you like to go through cars every 3 years, purchase/finance if you keep them longer than that. The M3/4's are still new and you could own one for 5 or so years (with or without extended warranty) and still sell it before the next gen hybrid M3 comes around. Edit: Someone buy this: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1993-bmw-m5-touring/ 
EvilBlackRailgun fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Nov 20, 2015 |
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Nov 20, 2015 19:23
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Now for lame information: I bought BMW wiper blades for my E61. Anyone buying wiper blades should just get the bmw ones. These are the 3rd set ive bought for the car, and I have had bosch icons, and some random (?) ones from the glass company. All the other ones were crap. All the blades for the E61 seem to be the blade style. The bosch ones were too wide, and too twisty. The edges would hit the glass every time it would change direction, so they would clunk hard twice a sweep. They did ok not chattering, but were so noisy. The random ones had a molded plastic end on the blades that didn't have wiper on it. So they were too small to complete the wipe. The sweep on this car isn't a full arc, it instead makes a fancy slide in the middle, so there was a little dirty moon on the glass. Also they lasted 3 months before they chattered. The BMW ones look like they have wiper blade on both sides of the beam. It pushes them on to the glass to get a better clean. They are so quiet I forget they are on. I bought them from pelican for almost the same price as the bosch ones. Came in fancy BMW box, with the two sizes inside. In the same order I have my HVAC fan, so I will soon kill myself while trying to take the dash out, but at least I have quiet wipers. Im going to also have to finally fix the rear hatch as its just about stopped working at all, and the passenger side door probably has a broken wiring harness as the heater mirror stopped working, and randomly I get airbag faults on that side. 120k mile E61 electrical gremlins aren't fun when you have a 1 year old and no time to fix anything.
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Nov 20, 2015 19:58
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angryrobots posted:Thought on this 135i? I don't see an upgraded PCV valve in his mod list. At the shop I work at installing an upgraded PCV valve is a prerequisite for the dual cone filter/solid charge pipe/JB4 stage 1 kit. If you exceed stock boost on the stock PCV the crankcase will pressurize. In most cars this causes a valve cover gasket leak, but in a 1M that came in for a slipping clutch at 50k km it was pushing oil out of the rear main seal as well. That led to material transfer between the clutch/flywheel and a 6k bill. I'm not trying to scare you, but its something to look for and use for bargaining leverage.
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Nov 20, 2015 20:46
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Looking for some electrical system help. I recently picked up a 1990 535i for a winter beater, it looks like poo poo, but drives fine. It has a drain on the battery, about 1.1 amps after the door control has done its thing. I was able to track it down to fuse 20 under the hood. My understanding is that this is hooked into a number of hardwired systems that otherwise bypass fuses. I've read some things about an IHKA as the common cause, but I've not been able to find anything like this on realoem. Anyone have any ideas as to what is hooked up to this portion of the electrical system? I'm finding that the wiring diagrams vary quite a bit for E34s depending on model.
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Nov 21, 2015 03:13
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Keyser S0ze posted:With knowledge of money factors, residuals, and the ability to put up to 7 multiple security deposits down that are refundable and basically earn you interest, 3-year leasing a mid-to-higher end BMW makes perfect sense and mostly, cheaper than buying. Especially if you don't want to own the car after the warranty/maintenance expires. Interesting... I guess I'll need to research the refundable security deposits for a lease? When the time comes I plan to trade my current car and let's just say it'll be, roughly, half of what the F80 will cost. In that case, financing the rest over leasing is going to be the proper course of action, correct?
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Nov 21, 2015 08:45
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