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Looks like I'm finally going to have a chance to move my bike across the coast and reunite with it. I haven't ridden it in 2 years and over the winter I'm going to work on getting it back into track mode. What are all of the cool kids using for tank grip these days? I've always used Stompgrip and the only downside is that it doesn't interface perfectly with the rubber knee grips on Alpinestars suits. I've heard good things about Techspec but I think they're ugly as sin. Any personal experiences with track performance between the two? Not worried about Stompgrip ripping up my leathers or anything (plus I hear they have changed their design to minimize that).
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Nov 20, 2015 12:45
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 06:25 |
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As ugly as they are, I loved the Techspec I had on my SV. Even though they technically weren't the correct ones for the bike, I never felt like I was going to lose grip at all, not even when wearing my not-so-grippy textile pants.
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Nov 20, 2015 15:20
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Marxalot posted:It's ok, you're not. I got the same on my PR4 rear with the same bike. I'm not expecting 30,000kms from the ZX10, but I'd be surprised if I didn't get somewhere around the 23 - 24k mark. - I run 32/38psi front/rear - I don't brake deep when I'm spiritedly riding, I prefer to brake early, carry more corner speed then shoot out. - My commute is mostly highway, so I'm not on/off the throttle a lot - I don't launch that often either, same as you, roll on to get around stuff on the highway. I've always seemed to get really good mileage out of tyres. Generally an extra 1/3 of the life compared to most other people I know that ride,
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Nov 20, 2015 15:28
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Chichevache posted:Would it make riding the drz more impressive? But you couldn't!
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Nov 20, 2015 16:05
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Marxalot posted:running max psi or something? You have to keep PRs aired up for them to last. They aren't designed to be aired down and you'll lose significant mileage. Keep mine like 38/40lbs or something; I have it etched on the bottom of my saddle whatever it is.
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Nov 20, 2015 17:35
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I had put well over 12k on the PR2s that had come with my last bike, and was getting ready to replace them this winter, not due to wear, but just by age.
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Nov 21, 2015 02:38
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Changed my rear tyre/tube out this morning... being a postie, once the wheel was off it was no more difficult than a bicycle tyre, really. Can't say the same about anything else though. When I got the hub apart the cush rubbers just fell out onto the ground, they're definitely shot (so now I'll have to wait on replacements). While I was in there I checked out the brakes, they're OK at least. I have a sprocket and chain kit I was also going to install while I was monkeying around with the rear wheel, but cannot get the rear sprocket off to save my life (tried putting it in the freezer for ~45 mins, should I go longer?). Probably doesn't help my ratchet handle is only 8". I put the rear wheel back on and tried getting the front sprocket off, but it was also super hard, was worried I'd bend the spokes so I stopped (from the video I found, the guy put something through the wheel to stop it from turning with the front sprocket and lock the latter in place... is this OK?). Anyone have a recommended penetrating oil for those stuck bolts? For the front sprocket, would it make any difference to put an ice pack up against it for a while, or no? Got the bike up on a milk crate (nice having something you can manhandle yourself) to do the front wheel, but was stopped by the brake and speedo cables, have no spanner that will fit (too small/space is too tight, the only adjustable one I have is a huge one)  Think I should be OK there once the factory toolkit gets here next week, at least. So uh, that was my afternoon. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Nov 21, 2015 |
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Nov 21, 2015 06:43
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Why in the gently caress is the live battery terminal the negative/black one? This is really messing with my head.
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Nov 21, 2015 18:52
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Old British bike? I didn't think anyone still used positive-ground electrical systems.
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Nov 21, 2015 18:54
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No, but every manual I find is telling me to remove black first to avoid sparks, which is like, wuh? If black was ground and red was live, surely having red still connected and black loose would be the way to get shocked if you accidentally grounded it on the frame/yourself?
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Nov 21, 2015 18:59
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Nope, if you remove the ground, you can touch anything except for the positive terminal and you're fine, since it's normally grounded anyway. If you remove the red, which isn't grounded, and accidentally touched the frame/engine/etc., then you'd be shorting the connection.
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Nov 21, 2015 19:01
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Yeah, that's the justification. You want the battery disconnected from the frame before you do any other work When they say "to avoid sparks", consider what would happen if you used a screwdriver or wrench to loosen the positive battery terminal first, and accidentally touched the tool to the frame while you were doing so. Renaissance Robot posted:If black was ground and red was live, surely having red still connected and black loose would be the way to get shocked if you accidentally grounded it on the frame/yourself? When unplugging the negative first, the black wire that is now floating around is connected to the frame, not the battery. You can grab the positive post with one hand and the loose ground wire with the other, and as long as you don't also touch the battery's negative terminal, you'll be fine (note: do not try this) Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Nov 21, 2015 |
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Nov 21, 2015 19:06
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Ooooh, I get it. My knowledge of electronics is mostly theoretical, so I forgot to consider that the physical arrangement of wires in the loom might have any effect 
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Nov 21, 2015 19:57
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Help! So firstly I'm an idiot. I have an sr400 and I just did my first oil change. Everything was working well but after running it at idle to check for leaks and pressure I turned off my bike but left the lights on. The battery is dead and I can't kick my bike. This particular bike is a kick start but I know it also uses efi, so am I just boned? It won't kick no matter what I do. I also ride it down a hill and tried to drop it into gear but that didn't work either. Any advice? Yes I'm a moron I know 
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Nov 22, 2015 01:46
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Knifegrab posted:Help! So firstly I'm an idiot. I have an sr400 and I just did my first oil change. Everything was working well but after running it at idle to check for leaks and pressure I turned off my bike but left the lights on. The battery is dead and I can't kick my bike. This particular bike is a kick start but I know it also uses efi, so am I just boned? It won't kick no matter what I do. I also ride it down a hill and tried to drop it into gear but that didn't work either. Any advice? Yes I'm a moron I know Did you try to bump start it in second or third? I can't bump start my bike in first gear. Some bikes won't run/start without some charge in the battery. So just charge the battery (or jump it, but make sure you do it like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTDGr8XyEhk, not like you would with a car).
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Nov 22, 2015 02:27
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builds character posted:Did you try to bump start it in second or third? I can't bump start my bike in first gear. Some bikes won't run/start without some charge in the battery. So just charge the battery (or jump it, but make sure you do it like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTDGr8XyEhk, not like you would with a car). What does bump starting it mean? I did manage to get it started but I am worried I did something stupid and potentially bad for my bike. I started stationary and put the bike in first. Then I pulled the decomp level and someone helped push me, once I got up to a decent clip I noticed all my lights were on at full power so I released the decomp lever and it just started up on its own with the momentum. I clutched in and put it in neutral and now my bike is fine but was this method potentially bad for my bike?
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Nov 22, 2015 04:58
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Oh jesus.
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Nov 22, 2015 05:12
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nsaP posted:Oh jesus. Can you expand on this, I'd like to actually know how or what I screwed up.
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Nov 22, 2015 05:25
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No it's fine.
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Nov 22, 2015 05:26
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Z3n posted:No it's fine. I honestly can't tell if you guys are being sarcastic or not I know I am bad at this but I wanna make sure if this happens again I don't do something dumb!
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Nov 22, 2015 05:34
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Knifegrab posted:I honestly can't tell if you guys are being sarcastic or not I guess you can sell it for parts
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Nov 22, 2015 05:35
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Knifegrab posted:I honestly can't tell if you guys are being sarcastic or not If there is one thing that z3n is known for on this forum, it's being a sarcastic rear end in a top hat.
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Nov 22, 2015 05:39
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I think you did about the best you could for bump starting an efi bike with a completely dead battery, pushing it in gear with the decomp pulled let the alternator spin and charge the battery somewhat. Usually you'd want to do it in second cause it's too easy to lock the rear when you dump the clutch doing a traditional bump start/hill start but gently caress it, you got it going. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTj1KHdODww
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Nov 22, 2015 05:44
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Knifegrab posted:I honestly can't tell if you guys are being sarcastic or not Nsap is taking the piss. What you did isn't exactly the textbook definition of bump-starting (or push-starting, same thing) but your bike is fine. Normal push-starting: Put the bike in neutral. Make sure the ignition and kill switch are both on. Start pushing the bike and get up to a good jogging speed, then hop on. Quickly clutch in, kick up to second, let the clutch out abruptly. The engine should turn over and start. Repeat as needed. You can also try kicking down to first gear instead. (If you get a friend to push you instead of doing it all yourself, it can be easier). What you did differently: you left the bike in first gear with the clutch engaged (lever not pulled), and pulled the decompression lever. Normally you wouldn't be able to start pushing the bike if it was in gear like that, because you'd be pushing against the engine compression. By holding the decompression lever in, you were getting around that problem. The big difference is that in the normal method, your engine isn't spinning until you let out the clutch. With your method, the engine starts turning as soon as the wheels are moving. That's why your lights came on. Why didn't the engine fire up as soon as you started turning it? Because with the decompression lever in, the engine doesn't have enough compression (duh) to ignite. Close that off, and away it goes. I wouldn't really recommend doing it your way because I don't think you are really supposed to have the engine turning over multiple times with the decompressor open, but it won't have hurt anything. e: ephthapthpahtpa has a good point, that your way spins the alternator and gives some power to the ECU and EFI system. However, I bet your battery wasn't actually so dead that the ECU wouldn't come on...it only draws a fraction of a watt. Just dead enough that you couldn't get the starter to turn. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Nov 22, 2015 |
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Nov 22, 2015 05:46
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Why you always lyin?
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Nov 22, 2015 06:01
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Razzled posted:I guess you can sell it for parts
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Nov 22, 2015 06:06
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nsaP posted:If there is one thing that z3n is known for on this forum, it's being a sarcastic rear end in a top hat. About time you assholes give me credit for the long troll.
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Nov 22, 2015 06:17
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Sagebrush posted:Nsap is taking the piss. What you did isn't exactly the textbook definition of bump-starting (or push-starting, same thing) but your bike is fine. Ephphatha posted:I think you did about the best you could for bump starting an efi bike with a completely dead battery, pushing it in gear with the decomp pulled let the alternator spin and charge the battery somewhat. Usually you'd want to do it in second cause it's too easy to lock the rear when you dump the clutch doing a traditional bump start/hill start but gently caress it, you got it going. Thanks! Really this helps tremendously 
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Nov 22, 2015 07:21
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haha so not only is it a kick start only bike with a drum brake selling for 6k, it also needs a battery to start despite being kick start only lmao
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Nov 22, 2015 13:17
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Bump starting actually is potentially bad for some bikes but only bikes with tapered component connections in the drivetrain without keys or splines. So basically just old BMWs.
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Nov 22, 2015 14:52
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Speaking of starting problems, I checked my battery this morning* and got 12.9v across the terminals. I thought this meant it might be okay but several minutes later I'm down to 11.1v with a still-dead bike. Two different mechanics have told me the carbs need cleaning, could that be making it harder to start? Obviously at 11v it's not going to start now without a jump or a new battery, but I'd have thought 12.9 would be enough. Also a few times it made this kind of EEGHHKKKKKK noise and the tacho swung up to about 6-8k, but the engine didn't actually start. What the heck is that? (*I'd been going to replace it because I had trouble leaving the shop the other day, but just found out they gave me a battery for a new zzr600 instead of the type I've got; I need 12Ah and they gave me one that's only 8Ah  )
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Nov 22, 2015 15:57
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A healthy battery at full charge should be closer to 14V, so 12.9 means it's on its last breath, and as you noticed the voltage drops fast when you put any load on it.
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Nov 22, 2015 16:19
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Looking to get some new tyres for the winter on my little 125 supermoto, any good recommendations that come in 130/70-17 rear 110/70-17 front? Seems like the road pilot 4s don't
Keket fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Nov 22, 2015 |
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Nov 22, 2015 19:51
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Renaissance Robot posted:Speaking of starting problems, I checked my battery this morning* and got 12.9v across the terminals. I thought this meant it might be okay but several minutes later I'm down to 11.1v with a still-dead bike. Two different mechanics have told me the carbs need cleaning, could that be making it harder to start? Obviously at 11v it's not going to start now without a jump or a new battery, but I'd have thought 12.9 would be enough. You have a bad battery - that sound is the starter relay slamming open and closed real fast. Also a fully charged battery should be around 12.7 or so when ignition is off, around 12.5 when ignition is on, and with the bike running and reved to around 1/3rd of total RPM, at around 14. If none of these are true you have a problem. Likely though your battery got trashed cause it's the wrong one. After that, you probably have a charging system problem - make sure you see ~14v at 5k rpm once you get the battery replaced.
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Nov 22, 2015 20:12
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Z3n posted:Likely though your battery got trashed cause it's the wrong one. Sorry if I wasn't clear, I didn't actually swap the batteries over. The one that's in there now is the one it came with, ie the stock 12v 12Ah maintenance free brick. It's trashed because it's been sat in a garage for three years, and then got started a bunch of times without really going anywhere. The 8Ah one I'm going to see if I can take back. Don't know how much luck I'll have since the juice is already in it, even though I didn't hook it up. I feel like a dumbass for not double checking before I walked out the store, but when you say "give me a thing to fit this specific bike" you sort of expect professionals to not make retard mistakes like giving you a totally different thing from a totally different bike that happens to have the same name.
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Nov 22, 2015 20:41
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You can always give it a try. If you asked for a battery specifically for your bike and they gave you the wrong one, then it should be their problem even if you broke the seal. And if they refuse you just know where not to go in the future.
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Nov 22, 2015 20:49
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Renaissance Robot posted:when you say "give me a thing to fit this specific bike" you sort of expect professionals to not make retard mistakes like giving you a totally different thing from a totally different bike that happens to have the same name. I see you have no experience with buying parts for any vehicle of any kind.
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Nov 22, 2015 20:58
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This is true. 
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Nov 22, 2015 21:01
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Why does my bike roll different when its in neutral versus when its in gear with the clutch pulled, I'd imagine they would act exactly the same...
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Nov 22, 2015 21:55
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Knifegrab posted:Why does my bike roll different when its in neutral versus when its in gear with the clutch pulled, I'd imagine they would act exactly the same... Stiction between the clutch plates means that even with the clutch in, there's still some transmission of power from the gearbox to the back wheel (or vice versa if you're freewheeling). When you say "rolls different", do you mean it's noticeably different when you're on the bike? Because that might be a sign that you need fresh oil or the clutch needs adjusting. If it's just when you're pushing then that's okay.
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Nov 22, 2015 22:00
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