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Lynza posted:My 300 does just fine with some luggage and my rear end on it, doing 75+ on the highway. Might work for ya! You+luggage probably weighs significantly less than most of us goons. 
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Dec 9, 2015 23:12
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Chichevache posted:You+luggage probably weighs significantly less than most of us goons. How do you know? Maybe shes got a lot of junk in her trunk.
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Dec 9, 2015 23:18
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Lynza posted:My 300 does just fine with some luggage and my rear end on it, doing 75+ on the highway. Might work for ya! I'll certainly consider it in a year or two when I have more money and/or the prices on used ones come down.
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Dec 9, 2015 23:20
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CBR500 or Ninja 300 would definitely work for "commute + small amount of stuff with enough power to pass people and better than average biek fuel economy" where the 250 just didn't have passing torque at highway speeds. Source: bought a 300 for a friend and put like 500 miles on it. Owned a 250 for a year and 8,000 miles like every other drat goon here and put about 150 miles on a CBR500. My old rear end carb'd 600 gets just under 50 mpg, which I consider to be pretty drat good. WAY beats out my buddy's FZ-09.
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Dec 10, 2015 01:50
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The ol' Uly gets like 15-65mpg depending on elevation and temperature. It uses a fuckton of fuel to cool the engine when it's above a certain temp so it can really gulp it down at parade speed in national parks.
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Dec 10, 2015 01:56
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For adding the gas tank onto my CT-110, it seems like the most stable way to brace the rear of it would be to have a metal bar welded onto the fuel tank that the rear fins can rest on. Obviously, tank would be emptied before that happened, but would it be thick enough for this to not be a terrible idea?
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Dec 10, 2015 05:26
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Digital_Jesus posted:How do you know? Maybe shes got a lot of junk in her trunk. 
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Dec 10, 2015 06:28
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Ethics_Gradient posted:For adding the gas tank onto my CT-110, it seems like the most stable way to brace the rear of it would be to have a metal bar welded onto the fuel tank that the rear fins can rest on. Obviously, tank would be emptied before that happened, but would it be thick enough for this to not be a terrible idea? As long as the new welded-on piece will only be supporting the weight of the tank + gas, it should be fine. I'd guess the tank is made of 18-20ga steel, which can be welded easily by someone who knows what they're doing and who has a good MIG or TIG system. (A talented TIG welder can weld two aluminum soda cans together without blowing through the metal). I wouldn't hire a farmer with a buzzbox to do it, but any place that can do exhaust repairs should be able to handle it.
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Dec 10, 2015 06:35
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Renaissance Robot posted:basically all I want is ninjette with fat hardcases and a touring windscreen, and just enough power for those things to not completely kill its ability to cruise at highway speeds CBR500 is what you want. The Honda 500 triplets are so dang good.
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Dec 10, 2015 07:38
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Ethics_Gradient posted:For adding the gas tank onto my CT-110, it seems like the most stable way to brace the rear of it would be to have a metal bar welded onto the fuel tank that the rear fins can rest on. Obviously, tank would be emptied before that happened, but would it be thick enough for this to not be a terrible idea? A full tank would be less likely to combust
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Dec 10, 2015 12:35
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Or fill the tank with water before you weld.
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Dec 10, 2015 15:35
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Did Honda move production of all motorcycles to Thailand/India? Or was it just the 500's, 300's and 650's?
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Dec 10, 2015 15:43
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A MIRACLE posted:Did Honda move production of all motorcycles to Thailand/India? Or was it just the 500's, 300's and 650's? AFAIK they are manufactured in Japan and assembled in Thailand.
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Dec 10, 2015 17:11
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Just got a steel brake line for my drz. Can anyone give me a quick run down on how to install it? There are some guides on youtube but they all use different methods. I'm not sure which is the best/easiest way to go.
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Dec 10, 2015 19:42
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Step 1: Take the old brake line off* Step 2: Put the new brake line on in the exact same place/way the old one was. Step 3: Bleed the new brake line. Step 4: Ride off into the sunset. *There will be a screw at the caliper and M/C end of the line that needs to be undone, that's it.
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Dec 10, 2015 21:02
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I want to upgrade the rear shock on my Hawk GT. I am not a racer and don't plan on taking the bike to the track, but I feel like I could use something better than the pogo stick that the bike came with. Hawk GT forums recommend the stuff that Hord Power sells. Does anyone have an opinion on either of these two units? http://www.hordpower.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_28&products_id=494 http://www.hordpower.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_28&products_id=156 Or alternately a suggestion for something else? Apparently some people use the unit from a CBR900, but doing that properly requires re-valving the shock, replacing the spring and doing some machining, so at the end of the day it would only be significantly cheaper than either of the above units if you half-assed it, and I'm not half-assing the only thing that keeps the rear wheel planted on the ground.
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Dec 10, 2015 21:21
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Sagebrush posted:I want to upgrade the rear shock on my Hawk GT. I am not a racer and don't plan on taking the bike to the track, but I feel like I could use something better than the pogo stick that the bike came with. Nitron have an amazing reputation but with that colour you'd better be prepared to do the rest of your bike out in an appropriately 80s colour scheme.
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Dec 10, 2015 21:28
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Shimrod posted:Step 1: Take the old brake line off* Is there any brake bleed tool in particular that I should get?
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Dec 10, 2015 21:37
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Partial Octopus posted:Is there any brake bleed tool in particular that I should get? Speedbleeders.
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Dec 10, 2015 22:08
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Sagebrush posted:I want to upgrade the rear shock on my Hawk GT. I am not a racer and don't plan on taking the bike to the track, but I feel like I could use something better than the pogo stick that the bike came with. Seconding the nitron, they are the bees knees and practically everyone in low level racing runs them here because it's hard to stick ohlins on 80's bikes. Remember: suspension that works brilliant on the track works brilliant on the road too, the two aren't diametrically opposite like they are in cars.
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Dec 10, 2015 22:10
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Sagebrush posted:I want to upgrade the rear shock on my Hawk GT. I am not a racer and don't plan on taking the bike to the track, but I feel like I could use something better than the pogo stick that the bike came with. Hello, fellow Hawk owner. I'm in the same boat as you, I don't race but the Hawk needs a new rear shock. Either of those 2 from Hord are great choices. JD Hord is also an awesome member of the Hawk community, he knows more about them than maybe anyone. I've ordered a few parts from him and the service is excellent. Other than the Penske and Nitron your options, from least expensive to most expensive, are YSS (I have not confirmed they make a Hawk shock but pretty sure they do) Hagon, Hyperpro, WIlbers, and Ohlins. The problem with the ones I listed is they are all from Europe so shipping does jack the price up to if not above the 2 available from Hord. You could probably get the Hagon or YSS for around $550 shipped. I like the Nitron too but that god drat turquoise spring is a big turnoff. ANY new shock is going to be a night and day difference over the lovely stock shock. Don't bother with retrofitting CBR units, not worth the hassle. Get something designed for the bike and tuned to your weight and riding style. If you haven't already, go sign up for the forums at https://www.hawkgtforum.com. It's a very tight-knit community of mostly old dudes. Hord is a member and you can talk to him directly.
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Dec 10, 2015 22:40
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Partial Octopus posted:Is there any brake bleed tool in particular that I should get? As mentioned above you can get a speedbleeder, but it's not necessary. I just do it with a spanner myself and wash it down afterwards. Remember to bleed the M/C end first and if you're doing the rear line as well put some fluid in the rear M/C before you put the new line on.
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Dec 10, 2015 22:50
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Thanks for the suggestions. I looked at YSS, Hagon and Willbers shocks: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/nt_650_hawk_gt/88-91/picture/rear_yss_z-series_monoshock/ http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/catalog/partdetail.aspx?partno=M61064 http://www.bits4motorbikes.co.uk/Wilbers-Suspension/Wilbers-Motorbike-Shock.html?listID=148 287 GBP for the YSS is only 435 USD, and that's including a 20% VAT charge that I wouldn't be paying. I'd end up at $348 + shipping -- just about half the cost of the Nitron unit. For a person like me, who just wants to be able to get the rear feeling better for everyday city stuff and weekend mountain roads, is there a big difference between the YSS and the Nitron? The Hagon is only 299 GBP -- still a huge difference. The Willbers comes out somewhat more but it's still a couple bills under the cost of the Nitron. Like, I'm happy to support the small guys like Hord, but I don't know if I'm $350 happy if there's not going to be a big difference in performance or reliability at the end. Also, I really don't know much about suspension details (would like to learn!) but people talk about ensuring you get the right spring rate. Would I need to work that out beforehand and try to order the shock with the correct spring preinstalled, or would that be something I'd have to buy and install myself later? Or is the default spring probably good enough? I weigh about 150 plus 15-20 pounds of gear, and I occasionally carry a 110lb passenger. e: oh and about another 5-8 pounds of oil and tools in the saddlebags Shimrod posted:As mentioned above you can get a speedbleeder, but it's not necessary. This I do know though: yes you do absolutely need a speedbleeder. Having done the brakes both ways, the 20 bucks and little bit of extra effort the first time you install them is absolutely worth the vast decrease in pain-in-the-rear end every subsequent time. If you're already taking the lines off, installing speedbleeders at the same time is a total no-brainer. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Dec 11, 2015 |
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Dec 11, 2015 00:05
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Is it bad for my bike if I only ride like 10 miles a day? I don't have anywhere to go farther than that
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Dec 11, 2015 00:31
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No but you should get a battery maintainer. The bike isn't really going to charge the battery up on such a small ride. Maybe if it's mostly highway.
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Dec 11, 2015 00:38
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A MIRACLE posted:Is it bad for my bike if I only ride like 10 miles a day? I don't have anywhere to go farther than that Yes. At this point you're basically wasting a motorcycle and should probably just go out and ride instead of worrying about needing to have a destination.
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Dec 11, 2015 02:22
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Slavvy posted:Seconding the nitron, they are the bees knees and practically everyone in low level racing runs them here because it's hard to stick ohlins on 80's bikes. Remember: suspension that works brilliant on the track works brilliant on the road too, the two aren't diametrically opposite like they are in cars. Depends on your location. Go with what your tuner knows... over here in the US you're going with Ohlins, Penske, or K-Tech (in that order). WP, Nitron, Yacugar, etc aren't as well known.
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Dec 11, 2015 02:52
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True that, I've never seen a Penske on a bike IRL and have never even heard of k-tech. Everyone at the (two  ) tracks in my area seems to have ohlins, nitron, hagon or wp in that order.
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Dec 11, 2015 03:24
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Sagebrush posted:Thanks for the suggestions. I looked at YSS, Hagon and Willbers shocks: I'd probably go Hagon, personally - I've run their stuff and liked it on older bikes. The Penske would be my choice in the expensive line. You should be able to give your weight to the guys you order it from and get the right springrate - if you've got the choice between 2 go for the slightly stiffer one for passenger duty. Most of this is honestly dependent on who you have to tune/rebuild in your area, all of the shocks are going to be much better for your usage. The only downside with all of these shocks is that preload adjustments for 2 up riding is going to be a giant pain in the rear end. Also I'll slightly disagree with Slavvy here, there's "road and occasional, casual trackday setups" and there are "track/race setups" - my track/race setup has valving that makes the bike very not fun to ride unless you're hard on the gas and hard on the brakes all the time, whereas there's a midpoint where the bike is definitely valved great for normal roads with potholes and things but leaves a little to be desired on the track. The SuperDuke pushes the very edge of the street side of that, any track bike set up for track only is basically unrideable on the street because the suspension is so stiff in order to give me some room to play with during fast riding.
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Dec 11, 2015 04:58
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Z3n posted:I'd probably go Hagon, personally - I've run their stuff and liked it on older bikes. It looks like Hagon can add a hydraulic preload adjuster for not too much extra (still ends up less than the Nitron, which doesn't have one). I assume this is some kind of little baby piston that you crank a few times like a hydraulic jack to set the preload, right? Sounds useful. How much of a pain in the rear end is it to do it the normal way? Are we talking like "five minutes of swearing at a spanner wrench" or "twenty minutes with a drift and hammer and stripped knuckles?" I have never actually messed with the rear suspension of the Hawk. The CL's little twin shock setup is pretty trivial, though, just cranking a ring around with the spanner. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Dec 11, 2015 |
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Dec 11, 2015 06:07
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Sagebrush posted:It looks like Hagon can add a hydraulic preload adjuster for not too much extra (still ends up less than the Nitron, which doesn't have one). I assume this is some kind of little baby piston that you crank a few times like a hydraulic jack to set the preload, right? Sounds useful. How much of a pain in the rear end is it to do it the normal way? Are we talking like "five minutes of swearing at a spanner wrench" or "twenty minutes with a drift and hammer and stripped knuckles?" Yeah, if you can get a remote preload adjuster added, I'd do that for sure. It's a little knob you can turn to crank up preload, and it saves you lots of swearing with a preload spanner. I loving hate preload spanners and turning them is a dick and just the worst. Twin shocks where you can get a good turns it's no big deal, it's when they're jammed up in the bike's guts and you can't turn it more than 3 inches at a time that leads to rage.
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Dec 11, 2015 06:22
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Z3n posted:I loving hate preload spanners and turning them is a dick and just the worst. Also nobody told the bike designer that anyone would actually want to turn that thingy on the shock there.
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Dec 11, 2015 06:54
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Digital_Jesus posted:Yes. At this point you're basically wasting a motorcycle and should probably just go out and ride instead of worrying about needing to have a destination. That seems weird but ok I'll try it
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Dec 11, 2015 08:37
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Sagebrush posted:I assume this is some kind of little baby piston that you crank a few times like a hydraulic jack to set the preload, right? Yes it is. I have the Hagon with the hydraulic preload and it's very practical. Have around 25 000 km on it now, still going strong. The range of adjustment is quite big, I've never felt like I've run out of spring rate even when loaded up heavy. You'll need to find a sensible place to mount it though, best pic I could find:  On the bottom of the shock there is a hex screw (tool comes with the shock) which you can adjust damping with, compression and rebound together. A little less practical than the preload, but it does point towards the right side so it's easy to get at when the bike is on the sidestand. e: Looks like yours has automatic damping adjustment so ignore the last bit. Ola fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Dec 11, 2015 |
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Dec 11, 2015 09:39
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Thanks for the advice! I went to change sprockets and chain today, went terribly. Front sprocket I was finally able to get off, after bracing old chain under the centre stand foot and hitting the two bolts with some penetrating oil. I could not get the rear sprocket off by hook or crook though, eventually caved and took it down the hill to the mechanic, who used his impact driver and sorted it in all of 15 seconds for me. Took it back home, installed new one. I really need a breaker bar or something, because my torque wrench is about 2-3 times longer than the dinky socket driver set and I'm pretty sure I'll have a hell of a time getting some of this stuff off again. Changed out cush drive rubbers while I was in there, which was the whole reason I had been putting this off (they came just when I had some company staying for 8 days). Could not get the retaining clip that came with new sprocket to rotate so that I could bolt the sprocket to it for anything either. Basically there are two sets of splines on the shaft with a thin gap area in the middle, the sprocket slides on and back, then the clip is supposed to slide halfway on, rotate about half a tooth on the thin gap area, and bolt up. Will. Not. Rotate. Fiddled with it up close with a headlamp for ages, just looks like the tabs/teeth are a little too long to allow it to rotate into place along the gap like it's supposed to. The old one works fine but I assume it is a Bad Idea to reuse it (guessing it's easy to rotate into place because they tabs/teeth have been worn down?). Whatever, I just want to get this thing done. Put old retaining clip on new sprocket (15T vs the old 16T) for now and do a halfarsed job bolting it in, reinstall the rear wheel, so that I can get the chain length sorted. In trying to figure out placement of some washers, stumble upon some info that I may well be missing a couple of bits along the rear axle, hard to tell. Would not surprise me with this bike.  Naturally, this happens next. Horray, $30 more dollars and waiting another week or two for a new one to arrive.  Really hating myself.I was originally going to take a stab at overhauling the carbie after I finished the sprockets and chain, but I'd spent all afternoon getting little accomplished (and making negative progress in some areas) and I figured my luck wasn't going to get any better. Really annoyed I've got to wait another week or two on that chain, I think I may try and do the carbie tomorrow even though the bike can't be ridden anywhere, as the prospect of waiting around on the chain only to re-brick my bike and have to wait on parts again (over Christmas holidays) would drive me insane.
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Dec 11, 2015 12:20
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I really need a breaker bar or something, because my torque wrench is about 2-3 times longer than the dinky socket driver set and I'm pretty sure I'll have a hell of a time getting some of this stuff off again. If I read that right, you shouldn't loosen anything that is super stuck with your torque wrench. If you exceed its maximum torque rating you can screw up the calibration.
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Dec 11, 2015 14:53
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AncientTV posted:If I read that right, you shouldn't loosen anything that is super stuck with your torque wrench. If you exceed its maximum torque rating you can screw up the calibration. Harbor Freight sells a $15 (2'?) long torque wrench/breaker bar combo that's good for 150ft/lbs
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Dec 11, 2015 15:20
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Thanks for the advice! If you were so inclined... two master links.
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Dec 11, 2015 15:26
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BlackMK4 posted:If you were so inclined... two master links. NO.
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Dec 11, 2015 16:12
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Ethics_Gradient posted:
Would you mind taking a pic of this? Maybe there's a gotcha you've missed and the hive mind can sort it out. About the chain length, I don't mean to sound condescending but it's worth asking, did you push the wheel all the way in on the chain adjusters?
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Dec 11, 2015 16:12
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