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Z3n posted:It's a little knob you can turn to crank up preload, and it saves you lots of swearing with a preload spanner. I troll my GS nerd friends by telling them I have dynamic preload adjustment and then demonstrate it by reaching down and adjusting it while underway.
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Dec 11, 2015 17:38
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Sagebrush posted:Shock I hear you about the price of the Nitron and Penske. It's a lot of money for a bike that is worth at most $2k to $3k. I'm on the fence as well and probably will go with a cheaper shock, and spend the savings on brake/front fork upgrades from Hord. I just got off the phone with Hagon USA. You can get their basic shock without the remote preload for $439.00 shipped. Remote preload was an extra $180 I think, and they also offer different spring rates for $516. The model number for the base shock is M61064. It might be cheaper on eBay direct from Old Blighty, but I would order from Hagon USA for the support.
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Dec 11, 2015 18:30
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I also am looking at the Hagon and talked to their UK bureau. They quoted me 408 GBP shipped ($620) for the shock with the remote preload adjuster, so it's within a dollar of the USA price. Still a hundred bucks cheaper than the Nitron, including the preload system. I think that's the way I'm going to go.
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Dec 11, 2015 19:07
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BlackMK4 posted:If you were so inclined... two master links. That's some dark poo poo, man.
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Dec 11, 2015 19:26
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AncientTV posted:If I read that right, you shouldn't loosen anything that is super stuck with your torque wrench. If you exceed its maximum torque rating you can screw up the calibration. IIRC you shouldn't loosen anything with a torque wrench, which is why I was saying I needed a breaker bar. Right now, tightening something smaller down with my big torque wrench makes it sort of a one-way trip (have a pretty big adjustable spanner for the larger stuff, at least). Marxalot posted:Harbor Freight sells a $15 (2'?) long torque wrench/breaker bar combo that's good for 150ft/lbs  Ola posted:Would you mind taking a pic of this? Maybe there's a gotcha you've missed and the hive mind can sort it out. About the chain length, I don't mean to sound condescending but it's worth asking, did you push the wheel all the way in on the chain adjusters? Yeah, was all the way forward  I read something about reversing the adjusters (switching the adjusting nut forward instead of behind the little gap on the swingarm the adjusting bolt threads through) to get some extra slack out of the chain, but I think that's something I'd only try in a field repair type situation. It'd be hard to get a clear pic (plus involve a bit of work and getting my hands dirty again), so I compromised and took a pic of how it looks put together + made an illustration to show a side view, hope this is clear:  BlackMK4 posted:If you were so inclined... two master links. I am trying to get this bike away from terrible, fly-by-night mechanical decisions, not pile more on!  To be fair, I would probably do it (temporarily) if I hadn't messed up the master link on the old chain, just so I could check the overhauled carb under load (assuming I even get it running again). Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Dec 11, 2015 |
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Dec 11, 2015 22:47
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Ethics_Gradient posted:IIRC you shouldn't loosen anything with a torque wrench, which is why I was saying I needed a breaker bar. Right now, tightening something smaller down with my big torque wrench makes it sort of a one-way trip (have a pretty big adjustable spanner for the larger stuff, at least). If you loosen something at 50ft-lbs with the wrench adjusted to 60ft-lbs it's fine, because it's essentially just using the wrench as you normally would. The problem arises when it clicks but you're still cranking on it. Also I've always reused front sprocket retainers. I never thought about it, but I hope that's not something you aren't supposed to do 
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Dec 12, 2015 02:51
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BlackMK4 posted:Speedbleeders. What brand do you recommend? Also how do I know what size I need?
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Dec 12, 2015 08:49
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I recommend the original Speed Bleeder brand, but really they're probably all going to be identical. You need to get the one that matches your current brake bleed screw threading. Just Google [your bike model] speed bleeder and you'll find the answer.
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Dec 12, 2015 09:39
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Ethics_Gradient posted:sprocket stuff Right, I get it now. It's weird that the new one won't fit. I would double check that it's the correct part and the workshop manual first. Perhaps the sprocket needs to slide a tiny bit further in before the retaining clip gets room to rotate? The two remaining options are to modify the new one or reuse the old one. I would probably reuse the old one.
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Dec 12, 2015 16:54
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Sagebrush posted:I recommend the original Speed Bleeder brand, but really they're probably all going to be identical. You need to get the one that matches your current brake bleed screw threading. Just Google [your bike model] speed bleeder and you'll find the answer. And if you have a used bike, measure the gauge of the existing speed bleeders beforehand. I ordered the "correct" size for the bike, but someone had put something slightly bigger in previously, so they leaked.
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Dec 12, 2015 19:35
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OK, trying to replace my rear brake pads. There are 2 4mm bolts (the pins) that I need to loosen. One loosens fine, no problem. The other, right behind my exhaust pipe, will not loving budge. I've got a right-angle key, but I'm seriously putting an enormous amount of pressure (including some gentle tapping to see if I can break it free) and nothing is happening. Not a loving smidge of movement. The bolt head is in fine shape, so it's not damaged. The manual says 12.7 foot pounds of torque, so I'm assuming the dealership just ... I dunno. Loctited it? loving welded it in? when they replaced it. Any suggestions? E: Bolt head is tweaked enough that I can't turn it. Dealership put it in too hard, they can take it out. And replace the drat bolt while they're at it. Lynza fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Dec 13, 2015 |
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Dec 13, 2015 20:49
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Lynza posted:OK, trying to replace my rear brake pads. There are 2 4mm bolts (the pins) that I need to loosen. One loosens fine, no problem. The other, right behind my exhaust pipe, will not loving budge. Probably just corrosion. Brake fluid is a hell of a thing. PB blaster on the bolt, and crank on it until it comes out or the allen bolt becomes a screw with a circle in it. If that happens then just vise grip the bastard out, take some measurements, and buy more from Fastenal.
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Dec 13, 2015 20:55
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Lynza posted:OK, trying to replace my rear brake pads. There are 2 4mm bolts (the pins) that I need to loosen. One loosens fine, no problem. The other, right behind my exhaust pipe, will not loving budge. Let me tell you, gentle tapping is never going to do a drat thing to a seized bolt. Get an electric impact, a decent impact bit, and go to town on it. You can do it with a manual impact too, but you're going to want to make sure you don't bend the rotor in the process. Make sure to apply pressure to the back of the socket if you're doing it with a ratchet so the thing doesn't cam out. Probably just seized from heat and corrosion. You can also slam the poo poo out of the allen key with a hammer to knock it loose, but beware fingers and such.
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Dec 14, 2015 01:58
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Put a ring spanner on the end of it to get extra leverage & a tube or something on that if you need more leverage.
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Dec 14, 2015 02:27
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Thanks for the advice, dudes! I left it as it is, since I don't have time to futz with it today, and I need it to be running so I can get to work tomorrow. The main problem is that it's about 3 inches from the exhaust, so it's really hard to get a tool in it. We tried: - Clamping a vise grip on an allen wrench. That ended up stripping the bolt because we had to put so much pressure on it. - Hitting it with as much of an impact as I could, given the lack of space to work with in there. The other screw came loose with nary a hitch, so I'm going to see if I can get a couple of replacement bolts and then do this again next weekend, with extreme prejudice.
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Dec 14, 2015 06:05
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I had similar problems with one of the pins on my bike, I think it had not been moved for 5+ years. Ended up cutting it half with a dremel and squareing the pin so i could get a wise grip on the pin and turn it and the allen wrench at the same time.
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Dec 14, 2015 09:38
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Probably dumb question: if I drop my bike with a full tank, will it piss a bunch of fuel out of the breather tube?
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Dec 14, 2015 18:14
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It's designed so it shouldn't.
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Dec 14, 2015 18:18
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Any detail on that? Is it like a float valve or something?
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Dec 14, 2015 18:22
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Nah, just hose routing vs. gravity. Even if you intentionally try to start a siphon, using the breather will seal the tank and the siphon won't work. I'm sure it isn't entirely foolproof and I am sure someone could figure out a way to put the bike down and have the fuel leak out.
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Dec 14, 2015 18:32
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Googling "fuel tank float valve" indicates that apparently yes, that is how it works. Or at least, there exist companies selling vent tube float valves intended for use with bikes; I'm sure there are plenty that do just rely on the length of the tube to not set up a siphon.
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Dec 14, 2015 18:39
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I suppose my antique Yamaha may have been futzed with then.
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Dec 14, 2015 18:44
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I've dropped a couple of bikes with full tanks and the fuel seemed to find it's way out past the gas cap somehow.
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Dec 14, 2015 18:52
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^^^ Same here
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Dec 14, 2015 18:53
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mine spills out the breather if it's tipped over on the left and the tank is completely full.
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Dec 14, 2015 19:22
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I can smell gasoline if I stop hard immediately after filling up. I assume it's coming out of the breather.
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Dec 14, 2015 19:25
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Following up with my brake pad pin question: Where do I find the right size/type of bolt for this? There's no information in any place I've tried looking. Google results just seem to be "how to replace" them, or "how to get a stuck one out" and whatnot. It's probably obvious, but I don't know where to find the information. It's a 2014 Ninja 300. I'm totally fine with drilling the old one out and replacing it, I just don't know what I need to get to replace the old bolt.
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Dec 14, 2015 22:48
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Lynza posted:Following up with my brake pad pin question:  It sounds like you are talking about part 92043? They are referred to as "Hunger Pins", $12.75 each from Bikebandit: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2014-kawasaki-ninja-300-ex300aes-rear-brake/o/m155401sch798721 e: Make sure this is your model, the parts may be different depending on if you have ABS or not. Probably the same either way.
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Dec 14, 2015 23:05
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HUNGER PINS You are awesome, thanks! I didn't even think to look on BB, even though I just ordered my brake pads from them .
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Dec 14, 2015 23:24
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 they probably mean "hanger pins."I do like the bizarre japlish in bike manuals (especially older ones), though. In my 350 manual, they repeatedly talk about the regulator/rectifier, which was at the time a modern solid-state design that didn't use a point-contact diode. So, obviously, this is referred to as a Pointless Regulator.
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Dec 15, 2015 00:37
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Sagebrush posted:
Obligatory Honda regulator joke
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Dec 15, 2015 00:55
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Totally clueless parts question: How do I know what size brake pads and brake rotors to get? 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille. The manual lists some cryptic gibberish about various sizes in millimeters, but none of the brake pad or rotor descriptions I can find online say anything about size in millimeters. And brake pad model numbers are even more senseless than GPU names. Take the EBC EPFA244HH ($58) and EPFA229HH ($17). No where on the entire internet does anyone explain what the difference between 229 and 244 is, or why one is worth $41 more than the other. Can I expect both to fit? Neither? And brake rotors - what sizes should I look for? Are there even different sizes? What makes a good or bad rotor? There are 0 reviews for basically all of them.
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Dec 15, 2015 04:35
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EkardNT posted:Totally clueless parts question: How do I know what size brake pads and brake rotors to get? 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille. The manual lists some cryptic gibberish about various sizes in millimeters, but none of the brake pad or rotor descriptions I can find online say anything about size in millimeters. And brake pad model numbers are even more senseless than GPU names. Take the EBC EPFA244HH ($58) and EPFA229HH ($17). No where on the entire internet does anyone explain what the difference between 229 and 244 is, or why one is worth $41 more than the other. Can I expect both to fit? Neither? Like this?
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Dec 15, 2015 05:15
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Phone posting but: Go to EBCs website, download their motorcycle catalog, look at the cross reference for aprilia, your year, your model, and see what pads are needed.
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Dec 15, 2015 17:31
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Other option: Motorcycle Superstore or Revzilla. Put in your bike's make model and year, browse brake pads and rotors.
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Dec 15, 2015 17:33
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Bike Bandit does it too, and even Amazon, where you might find a review if you're looking for one. I, too, was clueless (and still am!) about brakes, but I got the right ones and just cross-checked a couple of places to make sure.
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Dec 15, 2015 19:18
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I'm looking for the spacer that goes between the turn signal and the nut that holds it to the bike. Hopefully my illustration shows where it would be. I didn't see the part in bike bandit, is this something I'll just have to go to home depot and try and find the perfect sized little plastic tube?  This is for a sv650 btw
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Dec 16, 2015 16:15
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brotastrophe posted:I'm looking for the spacer that goes between the turn signal and the nut that holds it to the bike. Hopefully my illustration shows where it would be. I didn't see the part in bike bandit, is this something I'll just have to go to home depot and try and find the perfect sized little plastic tube? Are they not there in this schematic? http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-sv650-sv650s-sv650a-2003-2007-k3-k4-k5-k6-k7-usa_model16252/partslist/434438.html#results It's normal for original bike parts to gradually decay into Home Depot components. Perhaps this already happened during previous ownership.
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Dec 16, 2015 17:34
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Ola posted:Are they not there in this schematic? http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-sv650-sv650s-sv650a-2003-2007-k3-k4-k5-k6-k7-usa_model16252/partslist/434438.html#results Nah, unless I'm missing something I don't think they are. I previously got 15, 18, and 19 just in case but no luck.
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Dec 16, 2015 17:48
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Are Lifan engines decent or poo poo? Say a guy wanted to build a really simple tooling around bike around an inexpensive new or newish engine. Lifans seem to be the only readily available new engines around, hence the question. Asking for a friend.
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Dec 17, 2015 19:45
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