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stabbington posted:Painting Buddha has been doing a video series on that very topic. You should watch that and give it a try. I saw this exact thing earlier! Man, watching this guy do it, I doubt I'll ever get it down.
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Dec 20, 2015 22:24
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stabbington posted:Painting Buddha has been doing a video series on that very topic. You should watch that and give it a try. Ok, question about fundamentals from watching this. He's got is paints on a wet palette, I can tell that (and I can also tell that when I've used mine the paper was way too wet, which is good information to have) but what he is using to thin his paints that lets them sit in those nice, unmoving blobs that he can just dab at as he does? The few times I've tried to thin paints, it's gone somewhere between poorly to the creation of colored soap that will never dry  I use P3 paints, which don't seem to be that much thicker than what he ends up with so I'm not just blobbing paint everywhere, but what's the secret to doing it properly? Is it as simple as just a tiny drop of water? I've read through the OP section on thinning and the Reaper article therein, but whatever the Painting Buddha guy is doing seems like it's much simpler. I guess that's what I'm looking for, the super basic version.
rantmo fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Dec 20, 2015 |
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Dec 20, 2015 23:49
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rantmo posted:Ok, question about fundamentals from watching this. He's got is paints on a wet palette, I can tell that (and I can also tell that when I've used mine the paper was way too wet, which is good information to have) but what he is using to thin his paints that lets them sit in those nice, unmoving blobs that he can just dab at as he does? The few times I've tried to thin paints, it's gone somewhere between poorly to the creation of colored soap that will never dry More like a tiny drop of Vallejo Glaze Medium, it does exactly what you want.
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Dec 21, 2015 00:04
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Sadly, it really just depends on what works for you; there's no one right way. Lots of people only use water + flow improver. Some people like adding mediums. From my (limited) experience, mediums are more useful if you want to change the translucency (or glossiness) of a paint without changing its viscosity. After all, mediums are basically paint without the pigment.
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Dec 21, 2015 00:40
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The Badger Miniataire set is an Amazon Gold Box special again for $129 for the next few hours.
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Dec 21, 2015 01:42
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berzerkmonkey posted:The Badger Miniataire set is an Amazon Gold Box special again for $129 for the next few hours. Caveat emptor
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Dec 21, 2015 02:38
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Yeah I went in big on Badger paint and regret it. Only get it if you're going to airbrush everything, and even then I'd be weary. Maybe lots of terrain?
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Dec 21, 2015 05:54
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I love my Badger Minitaire set. It took some getting used to and there are a handful of useless ones (the matte finish for example is definitely not matte, and the metallics are generally not great) but there are also some fantastic ones (the ghost tints are awesome), the great majority are fine, and it's wonderful not having to thin any of my paint. Given they're 1 ounce bottles, they very nicely compliment my dwindling supply of circa-1990 Citadel paint. Also, I have chronic recurring vasovagal syncope with several triggers. Haven't been triggered by hobby trauma yet, but any two to three of: stress, lack of sleep, low blood volume, a few sips of an alcoholic drink, pain (especially abdominal pain), high altitude, taking a leak, blood (my own or someone else's), or hyperventilation.... and I may keel over (or not). My mom grew out of it when she was in her 20s. I'm 40 and it's still here. Sux. rantmo posted:Ok, question about fundamentals from watching this. He's got is paints on a wet palette, I can tell that (and I can also tell that when I've used mine the paper was way too wet, which is good information to have) but what he is using to thin his paints that lets them sit in those nice, unmoving blobs that he can just dab at as he does? The few times I've tried to thin paints, it's gone somewhere between poorly to the creation of colored soap that will never dry Flow improver is not for thinning paint: it's for getting paint to flow better, and as mentioned before, you'd never use more than one tiny drop in your little puddle of paint. Matte medium will let you thin the color of the paint without thinning its consistency (although it's available in a wide range of consistencies from good art supply stores). Water is the way to thin paint normally; it thins both consistency and color simultaneously. There is a point where the water starts to bead due to its higher surface tension, and that's where adding a tiny drop of flow improver helps to get it to act like paint again. But generally thinning the paint that much is too much unless you're trying to create a glaze. There is a wet-blending technique, but if you're not using that, or an airbrush, the key to a smooth gradient is to use very thin paint (to avoid brushstroke lines or too much thickness of paint) and lots of layers with lots of patience to let layers dry. So if you take some typical brush paint (citadel/vallejo/P3/etc.) and put two or three drops onto your pallete, you can dip your brush in water and transfer over a small drop or two of water to thin it. Mix it in, without getting paint up into your ferrule, and you'll have a thinned paint. Drag a brush stroke or two out on your pallette or a piece of paper or something, to get a feel for how thin it is. Add paint or water as needed to adjust. If you use a wet pallete, it may actually thin a little if you have too much water. If you use a dry pallete, it will dry from the edges inward and get a little thicker as it dries. Don't be afraid to adjust every few minutes. A drop of slow-dry helps a lot to keep the paint from drying too fast on a dry pallete... just be aware that as with matte medium, it will thin the pigmentation a little, since you're adding unpigmented stuff to the mix. Three layers will give you a reasonably good tabletop blend. Five or so will give a very nice smooth blend, with practice. More than that is for crazy high quality amazing paintjobs that I will never achieve.
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Dec 21, 2015 06:17
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Yes, but you have to be careful about thinning with water because at a certain pH point your medium's chemical binder "breaks" and your paint separates into its constituent pigments. At this point it ceases to be useful regardless of its consistency.
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Dec 21, 2015 06:56
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Leperflesh posted:I love my Badger Minitaire set. Same here. I have the full set from early production, and it's what I use 90% of the time. The metallics aren't that good, I prefer Darkstar Miniatures for that (great range of 15 different metallics), and I plan to get a set of Vallejo Model Air no matter what. Early batches did have a problem with mislabeling in some cases, and some people don't like that the finishes (gloss/satin/matte) on some of the colors are inconsistent, which doesn't bother me as I gloss varnish after different coats and do a final varnish of matte or satin, but this bothers some people. I don't know if this has been updated recently. The value is still really good no matter what you think of the quality of the paint. I think they're certainly as good as any other paint I've used, I wouldn't demote them to terrain only, that's for sure. The Stynlrez primers are are also really good and have a good review from painters and goons here, and you can get black, grey and white, plus recently they released green, red and yellow/khaki, plus more color primers are coming out soon. (full disclosure, I do some work with the UK distributor for Badger, but I still pay for all my paints and also use paints from Vallejo, Citadel, Reaper and others)
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Dec 21, 2015 12:36
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I
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Dec 21, 2015 12:37
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Work in progress of a Knight for our Mechanicus army:
Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Dec 21, 2015 |
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Dec 21, 2015 19:31
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Ilor posted:Yes, but you have to be careful about thinning with water because at a certain pH point your medium's chemical binder "breaks" and your paint separates into its constituent pigments. At this point it ceases to be useful regardless of its consistency. I'm... not sure I've ever seen that happen. What does it look like?
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Dec 21, 2015 19:48
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Leperflesh posted:I'm... not sure I've ever seen that happen. What does it look like? Like when you open a pot of gw paint that's separated and needs to be shaken. Like blue and yellowish streaks in a cloudy liquid.
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Dec 21, 2015 20:05
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Leperflesh posted:I'm... not sure I've ever seen that happen. What does it look like? In my case, like turquoise streaks produced by dark grey paint that looks nowhere near blue, green, or turquoise.
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Dec 21, 2015 20:11
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Showcasing my nearly done Ork Kommandos. I need some tips regarding the fuses on the TNT bundles, any suggestions for colours?  
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Dec 21, 2015 22:06
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The fuse on the TNT stick my Kommandos had was black with grey highnights; I used a lighter grey (dawnstone) because I wanted it to look more like a shiny cord that catches the light than a soft fabric where I'd use a more subtle color.
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Dec 21, 2015 22:14
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SRM posted:The fuse on the TNT stick my Kommandos had was black with grey highnights; I used a lighter grey (dawnstone) because I wanted it to look more like a shiny cord that catches the light than a soft fabric where I'd use a more subtle color. Well, black with grey highlights is how i did their clothes :v so that'll need some considering.
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Dec 21, 2015 22:22
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You could try using gloss varnish (Ardcoat) on the cords to make them shiny? Just something to make them look like a different material.
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Dec 21, 2015 22:41
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Get a couple of very thin shards of sprue, paint them orange and red, and glue them to the tips of the fuses.
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Dec 21, 2015 23:08
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After about 7 years of painting not much aside from space bugs, this might be the first normal human figure I've ever painted.  Things I have learnt: Painting human skin and faces is hard. Painting metallics is hard. Mold lines will come back to bite you, no matter how certain you are you have scraped them all. EDIT: and may as well cross-post these zombies from the oath thread that I painted at the same time.   Zombie skin is much easier than human skin, in that it's much easier to make skin look awful and diseased than it is to make it normal. Arson Fire fucked around with this message at 08:52 on Dec 22, 2015 |
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Dec 22, 2015 01:00
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Arson Fire posted:Mold lines will come back to bite you, no matter how certain you are you have scraped them all. I'm guessing you're working with pewter guys? One trick that I use is to polish the surface with #000-grade steel wool. That helps ensure an even level of shine on all the areas and can make it easier to see mold lines you either missed entirely or didn't smooth out enough. Plastics are pretty easy to clean mold lines on, and I have no (positive) experience with Reaper Bones.
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Dec 22, 2015 01:06
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I found some Tamaya brick walls and a barricade set over the weekend. I've got some great plans to make some ruined buildings being eaten by sand for my Menites 
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Dec 22, 2015 01:29
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This maybe isn't the best place for this question, but what do people here use for storing their little dudes? I like the look of Feldherr cases, although they don't have as many foam inserts for 30mm bases as they do for other ranges. Also, does anyone have a preference between putting their dudes in lying down or standing up?
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Dec 22, 2015 06:30
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KR Multicase 4 ever.
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Dec 22, 2015 08:48
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ijyt posted:KR Multicase 4 ever.
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Dec 22, 2015 09:08
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ijyt posted:KR Multicase 4 ever. Thirdin' this
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Dec 22, 2015 09:13
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ijyt posted:KR Multicase 4 ever. Not empty quoting
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Dec 22, 2015 10:17
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ijyt posted:KR Multicase 4 ever. Plus I believe they are still sponsoring the oath thread!
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Dec 22, 2015 12:29
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Dec 22, 2015 12:52
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Got some more work done on the Knight!  Going for a slightly modified House Taranis colorscheme - more white, less red, replace the silver with gold, making it fit better along the rest of the army.
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Dec 22, 2015 14:23
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More orks and a question: painting on varnish, do i need to thin it like regular paint or just straight out the pot?
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Dec 22, 2015 18:48
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Frobbe posted:More orks Most require no thinning. Which brand are you using?
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Dec 22, 2015 20:32
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Indolent Bastard posted:Most require no thinning. Which brand are you using? I got impatient and listened to the dudes om IRC, who said straight out the bottle would be fine. i used vallejo satin varnish, though i light give them a second layer of army painter anti-shine matte varnish
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Dec 22, 2015 20:44
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Frobbe posted:I got impatient and listened to the dudes om IRC, who said straight out the bottle would be fine. i used vallejo satin varnish, though i light give them a second layer of army painter anti-shine matte varnish vallejo will be fine.
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Dec 22, 2015 21:05
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'm guessing you're working with pewter guys? One trick that I use is to polish the surface with #000-grade steel wool. That helps ensure an even level of shine on all the areas and can make it easier to see mold lines you either missed entirely or didn't smooth out enough. Arson Fire posted:Things I have learnt: Metallics are easy, especially with "clean" metals - just paint your metallic color over a black base, then hit with a black wash. Obviously, you can take it to a much higher level, but for tabletop, and especially a board game, you don't need to go Golden Daemon/Crystal Brush quality. And your Survivor looks good - give yourself props for actually painting your set. I'm still petrified of painting my Zombicide because I have all of the base and expansion sets with hundreds of zombies...
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Dec 22, 2015 22:02
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Drake_263 posted:Got some more work done on the Knight! This is going to look great, love the use of stripes to break up the blocks of colour.
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Dec 22, 2015 22:49
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Hey there miniature painting thread. I am ready to be taken into the fold. I have bought the Blood Rage boardgame with all expansions and I plan on painting it sometime. Seeing that I have absolutely zero experience, I'd like to practice on something else first so I don't need to stress about loving up my boardgame. Any cheap and easy to paint models that are for sale in Europe? Preferably something fantasy-related so I can use them in my P&PRPG if they end up looking decent.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:14
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I pinned something today. What a pain in the rear end.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:26
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| # ? May 9, 2024 21:54 |
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theroachman posted:Hey there miniature painting thread. I am ready to be taken into the fold. I have bought the Blood Rage boardgame with all expansions and I plan on painting it sometime. Seeing that I have absolutely zero experience, I'd like to practice on something else first so I don't need to stress about loving up my boardgame. Any cheap and easy to paint models that are for sale in Europe? Preferably something fantasy-related so I can use them in my P&PRPG if they end up looking decent. Reaper minis are still relatively cheap in Europe, though it can be a pain to find somewhere that ships to your country for a sensible price. There's all sorts of fantasy minis in their line, so you'll be able to find stuff you can use.
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Dec 23, 2015 00:05
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