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regulargonzalez posted:Well now y'all got me worried. Just took delivery of a 3 sGT yesterday. Hi 3 sGT buddy  I'd at least call them and see. It's a new car, they ought to at least try.
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Jan 7, 2016 21:15
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My 2011 3S was perfect until someone pushed a stalled out Jeep Cherokee into the front end. Had to repaint my bumper for that.
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Jan 7, 2016 21:19
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regulargonzalez posted:Well now y'all got me worried. Just took delivery of a 3 sGT yesterday. I got it too, but it goes away when it gets warmer outside, typically shows up when cold out. From what I can tell its the inner seal since there is no leak when raining. Just been too apathetic to take it in, will mention it when my next maintence is, which is 5 months or 1500 miles according to the computer. I love my little car. You got the hatchback right?
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Jan 7, 2016 21:38
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We bought a 2005 6i for my wife over the summer from my father in law, within a week of getting it one of my wife's coworkers backed her mildly lifted Jeep Cherokee into/over the front end and hosed up the hood, passenger side headlight, both fenders and some of the trim pieces right below the windshield. Caused about $5k in damage.
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Jan 7, 2016 22:25
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Geoj posted:We bought a 2005 6i for my wife over the summer from my father in law, within a week of getting it one of my wife's coworkers backed her mildly lifted Jeep Cherokee into/over the front end and hosed up the hood, passenger side headlight, both fenders and some of the trim pieces right below the windshield. Caused about $5k in damage. Was the car even worth $5K?
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Jan 7, 2016 23:34
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2014 s Touring, two weeks after I got it a rock hit my windshield and spider webbed it. The car was so new in the country that it took 2 weeks to get a new windshield, and even then it had to be imported from Canada.
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Jan 8, 2016 00:50
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Rhyno posted:Was the car even worth $5K? IIRC it bluebooked around $6k. It was super low mileage for its age (60,000), the previous owner parked it in 2008 after it spun a rod bearing. My FIL buys, restores and flips damaged cars so it was one of his projects. He bought it for $3k and put a junkyard Ford 2.3L duratec in it and sold it to us at a hair over cost. It was very close to being totaled out even with the body shop using mostly used parts.
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Jan 8, 2016 01:18
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overdesigned posted:Hi 3 sGT buddy Alighieri posted:I got it too, but it goes away when it gets warmer outside, typically shows up when cold out. From what I can tell its the inner seal since there is no leak when raining. Just been too apathetic to take it in, will mention it when my next maintence is, which is 5 months or 1500 miles according to the computer.
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Jan 8, 2016 04:03
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I'm looking for input on a decent daily driver suspension build for my '13 MS3. I currently have the JBR 1.24" rear sway bar and Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3's in factory size. I'm looking for minimal drop (perhaps 1.5" at most) and spring rates/damping that are aggressive but still tolerable for a 45 minute commute. The car will never see a track, so adjustability isn't a priority. Basically, I think a simple spring and strut combo would probably work for me, but I'd entertain the notion of coilovers as long as they're not complete overkill for my needs.
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Jan 8, 2016 04:54
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MourningGlory posted:I'm looking for input on a decent daily driver suspension build for my '13 MS3. I currently have the JBR 1.24" rear sway bar and Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3's in factory size. I'm looking for minimal drop (perhaps 1.5" at most) and spring rates/damping that are aggressive but still tolerable for a 45 minute commute. The car will never see a track, so adjustability isn't a priority. Basically, I think a simple spring and strut combo would probably work for me, but I'd entertain the notion of coilovers as long as they're not complete overkill for my needs. I just got Koni FSD's. Not much of a drop to speak of, and it's all around an upgrade over the stock suspension. No complaints. From a post on MSF and I agree on all points: quote:They make the ride around town more comfortable. e: I have a 2008 MS3, stock springs, a JBR rear sway bar as well (stiffer setting). Tires are Hankook Ventus V12 evo2's in 225/40/18. air- fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jan 8, 2016 |
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Jan 8, 2016 05:32
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What springs are you using?
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Jan 8, 2016 05:38
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Speaking of tyres what's a good reasonably quiet choice for a first gen MS3 in the stock size? I've currently got Falken ZE-912s on the rear and I'm not sure whether they just suck or have perished or something but road noise is extreme on the typical course chip crap the roads are mostly made of around here.
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Jan 8, 2016 05:57
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dissss posted:Speaking of tyres what's a good reasonably quiet choice for a first gen MS3 in the stock size? Michelin Pilot Super Sport. Downside is they're pretty pricy (they are like $240 USD a tire) 
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Jan 8, 2016 06:01
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Hmmm even more expensive here, like $400+ USD per corner They also don't seem to come in the stock 215/45R18 size
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Jan 8, 2016 06:12
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The Conti's are consistently highly rated by both mags and people that have got em, from what ive seen. The all season ExtremeContact DWS 06, which tire rack has for $141.20 each, might be a good bet. I don't have any personal experience with em, though.
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Jan 8, 2016 07:05
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Cygni posted:The Conti's are consistently highly rated by both mags and people that have got em, from what ive seen. The all season ExtremeContact DWS 06, which tire rack has for $141.20 each, might be a good bet. I don't have any personal experience with em, though. The DW are great if you don't need all seasons like the DWS.
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Jan 9, 2016 15:41
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I got hit with the mazda curse a few weeks into ownership of my '08 3, an rear end in a top hat former friend backed into my car while drunk and left a nice turquoise scratch on the rear bumper, never even offered to pay for it. Anyways. Do you guys have any tips for breaking rusted rotors? My rears are on there loving SOLID and I'd prefer not to angle-grind them off if I don't have to.
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Jan 9, 2016 17:06
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MA-Horus posted:Anyways. Do you guys have any tips for breaking rusted rotors? My rears are on there loving SOLID and I'd prefer not to angle-grind them off if I don't have to. This method has never failed me. No need for pounding the poo poo out of it with a BFH either https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMuHKDI00rw
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Jan 9, 2016 19:02
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That's a drat good idea, no worries about cracking the caliper bracket though?
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Jan 10, 2016 04:53
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Got my EGR valve off along with the pipe and ran. I soaked the pipe in a bunch of Carb cleaner and ran a bunch of gun swabs through it, and did my best to clean out the EGR valve as well. Hopefully this will get rid of the CEL for another 60k miles. If it comes back I will be very tempted to buy a AP, block off the EGR, and get a TIP, intake, and maybe some other goodies. Having gotten this far in disassembly, I'm kind of regretting not having bought an oil catch can. If this comes around again, I'll also probably do the whole walnut shell blasting of the intake valves. I also got my front rotors and pads replaced. The driver side inside face of the rotor must've gotten a stone stuck between it and the pad because it had two deep gouges right at the edge. The stock pads still had plenty of life left, however. Tomorrow, I'm going to change out the thermostat, serpentine belt, and trans fluid.
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Jan 10, 2016 05:02
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I'm about ready for my first tank of gas in my 4 day old Mazda3 2.5L. The manual says 87 octane but the engine runs at a pretty high compression - is it worth putting 89 / 91 in there? (Possibly complicating the matter is that I live in the Denver area, and I guess due to the high elevation engines need less octane or something? Instead of 87 / 91, gas stations have 85 / 89. Also, it's virtually impossible to find non-Ethanol here. Should I put in the effort to locate some non-alcohol gas?)
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Jan 11, 2016 05:17
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regulargonzalez posted:I'm about ready for my first tank of gas in my 4 day old Mazda3 2.5L. The manual says 87 octane but the engine runs at a pretty high compression - is it worth putting 89 / 91 in there? I used to be pretty paranoid about this. I even thought my car "knocked" a little bit on 87. For the first year I filled up with 91 almost exclusively. Since about July of this year though I have been using 87 with no consequences or difference in performance. I've used both Ethanol and Ethanol free gas and I found that the only difference is a slight change in fuel consumption. Just fill up with 87 or whatever is closest to it. That's what your car started with when the dealership fueled it up for you.
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Jan 11, 2016 05:21
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They can recommend regular octane because with fancy multiple direct injection, the fuel doesn't get shot in until after the cylinder is compressed and ready to fire, correct?
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Jan 11, 2016 05:53
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Yeah, it's somewhere between a traditional gas and a diesel. Because the fuel gets injected at the last possible moment, you greatly reduce the risk of knock in the first place. You also get some additional cooling of the fuel/air charge compared to anything else. Run whatever it says in the manual. I think in your shoes I might run 89 if 87 is not available.
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Jan 11, 2016 08:40
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85 should be fine at your altitude. If you're really paranoid, bump it up one grade. Really though you don't need to spend extra money on higher octane. Don't bother yourself to seek out non-ethanol gas. It's pretty tough nowadays and I imagine it was calibrated for E10 anyway (since it's more or less the standard now).
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Jan 11, 2016 13:59
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Well, I somehow ordered the wrong belt from rockauto, and wound up with a 20" long accessory belt for some variant of the MZR with a separate AC belt/pulley. I went over to Advance auto for a belt and the one they sold me (Dayco, maybe) was maybe an inch or more too short and I couldn't get it onto the crank with the tensioner fully released-- without risk of damaging the belt. I wound up putting the old one back on. I guess I'll buy a new one direct from Mazda next time. In other news, I discovered that my driver side transaxle seal is leaking and will need to be replaced one day.
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Jan 12, 2016 00:46
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MetaJew posted:Well, I somehow ordered the wrong belt from rockauto, and wound up with a 20" long accessory belt for some variant of the MZR with a separate AC belt/pulley. I'm gonna have to do my belt when the weather is a little nicer. It doesn't look like it's that difficult, any tips?
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Jan 12, 2016 01:17
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Its not too bad. I'd recommend getting an OEM belt from a dealership to avoid any hassle with getting one that is slightly too short. You'll need a 14 mm socket or wrench with a cheater and a 21 mm socket and ratchet for the crank shaft. Remove the floor pan, passenger side wheel, and wheel well liner, turn the tensioner clockwise to loosen it, and pop off the old belt. To get the new one on you might need a second pair of hands, look up the diagram to route it or refer to this video: [video type="youtu"]4SWVlbyfCmg[/video] Route the belt over everything except the crank pulley, loosen the tensioner, and ease the belt onto the pulley, and rotate the crank to walk the belt on. It is harder than it sounds.
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Jan 12, 2016 01:36
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For what it's worth, the part number usually includes some form of belt length in it. I used that to my advantage on my LS1 swap since the one the custom bracket manufacturer recommended was a tiny bit short.
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Jan 12, 2016 03:15
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I mean that's true, but the Dayco belt had the same size in the part number as the Gates belt that Rockauto says is "OE Exact". \/ \/
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Jan 12, 2016 03:54
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I have a 2007 MS3. Has anyone found a place that has off the shelf bumper lightbar mounts for them or am I going to have to go with a custom solution?
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Jan 14, 2016 18:38
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What do you need a light bar for? I can't imagine there is an off the shelf solution unless you're screwing it into the bumper.
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Jan 15, 2016 03:29
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MA-Horus posted:That's a drat good idea, no worries about cracking the caliper bracket though? That's why you use cheap hardware store nuts and bolts to do it. If the caliber bracket yields before the cheap fasteners then its probably for the best that you're replacing the bracket
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Jan 15, 2016 07:40
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TheGreySpectre posted:I have a 2007 MS3. Has anyone found a place that has off the shelf bumper lightbar mounts for them or am I going to have to go with a custom solution? If they exist I can almost guarantee they come from an Australian company 
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Jan 15, 2016 08:06
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Did a Mazda AUS sell a factory roo bar for the MS3? I know they sold a tow hitch kit for it.
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Jan 15, 2016 20:02
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Just spent half an hour kicking and pounding on the passenger side muffler to break it off the rest of the way. Previous owner made a mess of things down there. I knew I should have hung on to that Corksport exhaust system.
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Jan 19, 2016 02:21
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My brother is planning on buying a Focus ST in November and is going to either trade in or private party his '08 MS3. Said he wants to get at least $4k for it. It's mostly stock other than a TIP, Corksport adjustable suspension and aftermarket wheels and currently has 71k on the OD. Any reason I should pass on it? Do first gen MS3s turn into ticking timebombs after 100k or do they last if driven responsibly?
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Feb 11, 2016 20:19
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I got $7500 in trade from a dealer for mine. On one hand it was just under three years ago, on the other it had nearly twice the mileage, an intermittent miss, a dying CV joint, something fucky in the front suspension / subframe bushings, and a dying compressor. $4k for a MS3 would almost make me jump back into one to have something better to drive
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Feb 12, 2016 05:37
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Yeah $4k is outrageously low, even if it has a salvage title or something. I got $12.5k for my 08 a few months ago with 50k miles.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:15
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Looking for those cars with that low of mileage when I was looking for cars recently was impossible. Easily $15k here.
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Feb 12, 2016 19:04
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