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You can get a cheap seal tool from Harbor Freight. And by the way if you didn't the first time, use only OEM Mazda seals just to be sure. http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
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Jan 16, 2016 20:48
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If you're sure the leak is coming from the seal, did you check the sealing surface for scoring? Also a cheap tool alternative is PCV pipe; I've never done the rear seal but a 1 1/4 inch fits the crank seal perfectly.
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Jan 16, 2016 21:53
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That's a chunk of change for a hopefully single-use item. PCV piping is a nice idea, looks like the OD of the seal is 3.9 inches, ID is 3.3, gotta be something close I can bodge together at home depot. Actually, looks like that Harbor Freight set doesn't go big enough? Checking for scoring is a good plan, hindered by access difficulties. If there is scoring, am I just sunk or is there like a sleeving process or something?
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Jan 16, 2016 22:17
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I owned a '97 about eight years ago and I'm in the market for a Miata again. I think I want to go NB as I'd like to have a 6-speed manual for silly reasons. I also definitely want one with limited slip. I've never driven an NB, though, and I'm curious how different the VVT motors are from what I had in my NA2. I do really like revs, in general, and if they really rip a little harder up top that'd be reason enough to narrow my search to the VVT years.
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Jan 16, 2016 22:21
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TheNothingNew posted:Checking for scoring is a good plan, hindered by access difficulties. If there is scoring, am I just sunk or is there like a sleeving process or something? Yeah there are a few different manufacturers that make sleeves. They call them speedi-sleeves or redi-sleeves. I've had varying luck with them and they're kind of pricey for what they are but they're worth a try before pulling the shaft for machining. One thing I wish I knew the first time I put one on: there's a removable flange connected that you use to hammer the sleeve on. Just leave the drat flange on, it's impossible to get it out of that tight space without making more scratches.
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Jan 16, 2016 22:41
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Hikaki posted:Yeah there are a few different manufacturers that make sleeves. They call them speedi-sleeves or redi-sleeves. I've had varying luck with them and they're kind of pricey for what they are but they're worth a try before pulling the shaft for machining. One thing I wish I knew the first time I put one on: there's a removable flange connected that you use to hammer the sleeve on. Just leave the drat flange on, it's impossible to get it out of that tight space without making more scratches. Oh, now that's cool! I thought the scored part would have to be honed out by a shop. Neat.
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Jan 16, 2016 22:53
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A rear oil pan seal leaking can also look like a rear main seal leaking. I had personal experience with that, 2 engine outs in less than a week. I'd try pulling the pan and seeing if the seals are hard before I'd try machining or sleeves. It's really cheap to get a replacement set of seals and silicone and depending on how you're equipped for tools it's easier to pull the engine and transmission as an assembly than to split them on the car to work on the rear main seal while it's installed.
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Jan 16, 2016 23:11
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craig588 posted:A rear oil pan seal leaking can also look like a rear main seal leaking. I had personal experience with that, 2 engine outs in less than a week. I'd try pulling the pan and seeing if the seals are hard before I'd try machining or sleeves. It's really cheap to get a replacement set of seals and silicone and depending on how you're equipped for tools it's easier to pull the engine and transmission as an assembly than to split them on the car to work on the rear main seal while it's installed. Requires pulling the engine out, which I am not prepared or equipped to do. Interesting, though: pretty much all my research said the oil pan couldn't possibly be leaking due to whatever wonder glue mazda used. This puts it back in the realm of possible issues. How'd you get the oil pan separated from the engine? Just keep whacking it with a rubber mallet or what?
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Jan 16, 2016 23:35
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I sat in an ND today at the Boston auto show, I really like the car and the new top mechanism is really nice compared to the old ones. It's really claustrophobic with the top up though. DEUCE SLUICE posted:I owned a '97 about eight years ago and I'm in the market for a Miata again. I think I want to go NB as I'd like to have a 6-speed manual for silly reasons. I also definitely want one with limited slip. It's not really that different, the VVT motors have a noticeable pick up above 3000rpm and hold power longer but with that little horsepower the biggest difference is really the gearing of 5 vs 6 spd and the diff ratio. For autox I think I would have liked a VVT NB with a 5spd with a 4.1 Torsen since top speed in 2nd is a bit north of 60mph while the 6spd with the 3.909 hits 55mph in 2nd. Shorter gearing on the 6spd made it feel a little punchier on the street but it's really just slow as gently caress vs slow as a tiny bit less gently caress. Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 02:40
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TheNothingNew posted:That's a chunk of change for a hopefully single-use item. PCV piping is a nice idea, looks like the OD of the seal is 3.9 inches, ID is 3.3, gotta be something close I can bodge together at home depot. There's a cheaper one for $20 that's made out of plastic. It's worth getting it right, I'd rather spend the 20 than use a pvc pipe.
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Jan 17, 2016 04:16
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Body Shop / Paint Shop is almost done with our car. Decided to get brand new paint to go with our brand new rebuilt fancied up engine. Pretty excited to drop everything together. Only lovely part is we still have to finish up the control arms and diff bushings before enjoying it. Coolant reroute is almost the nicest thing on it so far. Still have to wait for one more parts order before throwing on the clutch and flywheel and buttoning everything up to the transmission.  
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Jan 17, 2016 04:51
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TheNothingNew posted:Requires pulling the engine out, which I am not prepared or equipped to do. Interesting, though: pretty much all my research said the oil pan couldn't possibly be leaking due to whatever wonder glue mazda used. This puts it back in the realm of possible issues. I split it like any other engine and oil pan, unscrewed it and tilted it left and right from the bottom for leverage, might have used a screwdriver on a corner to get it started. There wasn't anything special to it. The sealant Mazda is using is just regular silicone RTV, unless they supply a different replacement than they use for building.
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Jan 17, 2016 17:17
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craig588 posted:I split it like any other engine and oil pan, unscrewed it and tilted it left and right from the bottom for leverage, might have used a screwdriver on a corner to get it started. There wasn't anything special to it. The sealant Mazda is using is just regular silicone RTV, unless they supply a different replacement than they use for building. Huh. Well, thank you. If the next seal install fails, I now have a direction to move in.
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Jan 17, 2016 17:31
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TheNothingNew posted:Requires pulling the engine out, which I am not prepared or equipped to do. Interesting, though: pretty much all my research said the oil pan couldn't possibly be leaking due to whatever wonder glue mazda used. This puts it back in the realm of possible issues.
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Jan 17, 2016 21:28
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destructo posted:Not true.. you can drop the front subframe. Stripped the car today, it has a koyorad 
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Jan 18, 2016 01:51
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Put aluminum bushings in my NA8 and my GF's NA6. I only got boots for mine, we put a full 5X racing rebuild kit in hers because its anti rotation bushing was powdered. I should have put the full kit in mine. Everything in my shift assembly looked fine, but now her car with 40k more miles shift a lot nicer than mine. Also I strongly recommend aluminum shift bushings from mazda speed. Reverse is a bitch for a while, but holy poo poo do they shift nice.
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Jan 18, 2016 02:55
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Fleet dealer buddy dropped off the face of the earth so I've assumed the search for a new Club myself. Most of the dealerships are starting a few grand over sticker here in socal, but I found one willing to go $500 under before I even walked inside. Heading over there tomorrow to check it out.
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Jan 18, 2016 06:46
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Monkey Wrangler posted:Fleet dealer buddy dropped off the face of the earth so I've assumed the search for a new Club myself. Most of the dealerships are starting a few grand over sticker here in socal, but I found one willing to go $500 under before I even walked inside. Heading over there tomorrow to check it out. I got mine for $200 under invoice, $1,500 under sticker + some other small extras worth ~$200. This was on December 31st so some dealerships were desperate for sales, but make sure to really do your homework and have dealerships out-bid each other. You should probably start the discussion with that you're looking to pay invoice. I got the same story of "we've been selling them for several thousand above sticker, but are willing to sell for sticker now to finish the end of year sales", and within minutes we were talking about invoice/slightly under invoice. Blinky2099 fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Jan 18, 2016 |
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Jan 18, 2016 07:12
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Monkey Wrangler posted:Most of the dealerships are starting a few grand over sticker here in socal, but I found one willing to go $500 under before I even walked inside. Heading over there tomorrow to check it out. It is worth looking into if you qualify for Mazda s-plan/Ford x-plan. I got x-plan through work even though my company has nothing to do with cars and it gets you invoice pricing if a dealer is willing to honor it.
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Jan 18, 2016 17:03
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I wound up getting it for $500 under MSRP and they threw in some poo poo for free. Pretty happy with it so far. I'm looking forward to a canyon drive to check out the differential.
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Jan 19, 2016 07:32
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Monkey Wrangler posted:I wound up getting it for $500 under MSRP and they threw in some poo poo for free. Pretty happy with it so far. I'm looking forward to a canyon drive to check out the differential. My soft top's headliner gets disconnected from the rear windshield every time I put the top down and pull it back up. The headliner is drooping down and blocks visibility from the top ~1/4th or 1/3rd of the rear windshield. It's a relatively easy fix by reaching back and clipping it in with one hand and sliding my hand across the entire headliner to engage the rest. Is this normal to have happen every single time I lower and raise the top? Also, my driver-side left headrest speaker has been blown since delivery so I've gotta bring it in for that anyway. Can't tell during music since the volume is so low compared to the rest of the speakers, but SMS-to-speech comes exclusively out of the headrest speakers so it's really obvious and loud. Blinky2099 fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 19:09
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Blinky2099 posted:Grats! Upload some pictures. That doesn't seem normal. I've been putting the top up and down twice per day for the last month and I have never had to adjust anything with the top or rear windshield.
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Jan 26, 2016 04:09
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Quick rant, and I want some advice on what I should do here. At this point they've requested the rental car back (which I returned today), rendering me without a vehicle, so I'm borrowing my dad's truck. The reason they wanted it back is because they're unsure of whether or not Mazda will warranty the car, so they're trying to cover their butts. I'm 20, so they're not able to give me a loaner vehicle from their fleet because it's "against their policy due to insurance issues". If it's against your policy to give me a loaner vehicle, then why isn't it against your policy to allow me to purchase a brand new car? I find it pretty drat ridiculous that I'm even having issues with them at this point. For such a major failure like this to occur, and they're not even willing to say they'll cover it? I can tell you that I beat on my old NA wayyyyyyyy harder than this car. I baby this car compared to my old NA. This is an issue on Mazda's end, and I know that for a fact. They're treating me like crap, and I'm not sure if it's because I'm being too nice, or if they're just taking advantage of me due to my age. But I used to have a 2012 Ford Focus. I got WAYYY better customer service with Ford. Any problem I ever had, they were on it and never even questioned abuse. That car had a lot of horror stories I could tell you. If that car hadn't been pre-owned, I would have lemon'd it. But the point is, I really feel like Mazda is jerking me around. Especially compared to the customer service I got from Ford, and they never took my rental away from me because of some stupid accusation of abuse, all stemming from excessively worn tires. And the funny part is, the service adviser was even like, "Well you actually have a lot going for you. Besides this one issue with the transmission, the car is in perfect shape. There's no signs of damage to the undercarriage of the car like scrapes or dents that would indicate you flying over speed bumps or anything." So he's assuring me that I've got a lot going for me, but still fk'n me over with this warranty BS. What really pisses me off is the fact that they took the rental back. That's extremely unprofessional in my opinion. If it weren't for that, I'd probably be pretty content right now just waiting for them to do an analysis and fix my car.
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Jan 28, 2016 20:15
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I always get confused when Phone posts
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Jan 28, 2016 20:39
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So dude got busted abusing a rental car and now he's bitching about it on mnet 
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Jan 29, 2016 01:27
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He abused his own car, warranty won't cover the rental because they denied the claim. Had to return the rental. Has to pay for a new transmission.
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Jan 29, 2016 01:32
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Lol. It read like they took the rental car because the tires were excessively worn on it. I hope he didn't blow the trans on a new ND, jesus.
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Jan 29, 2016 01:36
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He did. He also admitted right out of the gate that he got an ECU flash. Everyone is like WOW WHY IS MNAO BEING SO MEAN?!?! while the possibility of this 20 year old kid maybe being hamfisted with the transmission is not even on the table. Everything's a fuckin' conspiracy. Forever.
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Jan 29, 2016 03:21
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Yeah gently caress owning your mistake, entitlement FTW.
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Jan 29, 2016 03:26
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I had an openflash tablet tune on my frs and one of the features of the tune was that the fuel cut at the redline was raised a few hundred rpm to allow 60 mph to be achievable in 2ND gear, with the goal of improving 0-60 numbers. Stock, 2nd tops out at 58. If this tune also raises the redline I can easily see why mazda would say a hosed with ECU is grounds for a denied claim on the transmission.
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Jan 29, 2016 04:28
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It's a ton of miles, but this thing looks like it would be pretty drat fun.
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Jan 29, 2016 05:47
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:It's a ton of miles, but this thing looks like it would be pretty drat fun. What about the gray one that has Xidas and FM's Little Enchilada package.
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Jan 29, 2016 05:53
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Really nice but a hair outside of my price range. There's a bone stock '05 with 75k miles on it for $10k, that's what I'd do if I extend the price a bit.
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Jan 29, 2016 05:56
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Phone posted:He did. He also admitted right out of the gate that he got an ECU flash. Everyone is like WOW WHY IS MNAO BEING SO MEAN?!?! while the possibility of this 20 year old kid maybe being hamfisted with the transmission is not even on the table. Well apparently they delete posts that disagree and hand out "points"
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Jan 29, 2016 07:21
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One of the Supporting Members not you, Gutbomb tried to assert that there was no way for the ECU to know which gear the car is in or the clutch disk speed. Which is cute, considering that there's a gear indicator on the instrument panel and solving for " which gear am I in?" is at best an algebra 2 problem. You know engine speed, vehicle speed, the transmission ratios, the final drive ratio, and the tire/wheel combo size. Solve for X. Phone fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 29, 2016 16:44
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CharlesM posted:Well apparently they delete posts that disagree and hand out "points" No, just Phone's posts
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Jan 29, 2016 17:13
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I am trying to diagnose a rough idle condition on my 2006 GT. All fluids have been replaced. I changed the spark plugs (with the factory NGKs) and cleaned the MAF. I took it to a shop and they did a total fuel system cleaning (complete with billowing smoke) and the problem persists. The shop did not think it much of a problem but it is idling noticeably rougher than before. When I turn the AC on the idle goes up to just under 1000. I know higher idle with AC on is a thing, but this seems higher than it should be. I am out of ideas about what the next steps are in trying to troubleshoot this issue.
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Jan 29, 2016 17:14
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Phone posted:One of the Supporting Members [spoiler]not you, Gutbomb[spoiler] tried to assert that there was no way for the ECU to know which gear the car is in or the clutch disk speed. The gear indicator was introduced on the RX-8 I believe. The Mazdaspeed 3 limits engine power in the first 2 or 3 gears. Etc.
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Jan 29, 2016 17:16
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Whoops, Awful.app ate my /. I just love the juxtaposition of these old dudes railing against technology at all costs and can't deduce how it'd be feasible for a computer to figure out a math problem that is appropriate for literal school children. Protip: computers are super good at doing math.
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Jan 29, 2016 18:03
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Kastivich posted:I am trying to diagnose a rough idle condition on my 2006 GT. All fluids have been replaced. I changed the spark plugs (with the factory NGKs) and cleaned the MAF. I took it to a shop and they did a total fuel system cleaning (complete with billowing smoke) and the problem persists. The shop did not think it much of a problem but it is idling noticeably rougher than before. When I turn the AC on the idle goes up to just under 1000. I know higher idle with AC on is a thing, but this seems higher than it should be. I am out of ideas about what the next steps are in trying to troubleshoot this issue. Seems like a non-issue. Maybe try to disconnect the batt. and reset the ECU. I am curious about how you cleaned the MAF. Did the MAF wires seem dirty, did you only clean the IAT part? It's two sensors in one, cleaning the wrong part won't give the right effect. edit- you'd really need a sensor value to see if that's the issue, how did the throttle body look? Chriskory fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 29, 2016 18:41
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