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Sagebrush posted:No. You might find it easier to do in second gear, though. The engine doesn't need to be turning quickly in order to start, and being in second when the engine catches makes the bike more stable. Ah okay thanks. I can see it definitely being easier in second, because sometimes first gear just locks up and slides. Not so much on the V, but on any dirtbike I've tried it with.
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Jan 22, 2016 23:14
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 12:04 |
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I jump started my riding mower with my elite 250 the other day. Killed all living matter within a 50 foot radius For real though, if you want to talk poo poo charging systems, hit up Briggs and Stratton
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Jan 23, 2016 00:37
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A mechanic at a Harley-Davidson place once told me that he didn't have any batteries for my Honda, because "you could put one on there, but these batteries are too powerful! They'd spin your engine like there were no spark plugs in it."
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Jan 23, 2016 00:43
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Sagebrush posted:A mechanic at a Harley-Davidson place once told me that he didn't have any batteries for my Honda, because "you could put one on there, but these batteries are too powerful! They'd spin your engine like there were no spark plugs in it." That's kinda unfair. Your question wasn't nearly related to chrome polish or leather care.
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Jan 23, 2016 00:55
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Sagebrush posted:A mechanic at a Harley-Davidson place once told me that he didn't have any batteries for my Honda, because "you could put one on there, but these batteries are too powerful! They'd spin your engine like there were no spark plugs in it." "That's what I'm hoping for--drat thing's seized up tight!"
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Jan 23, 2016 01:02
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Sagebrush posted:A mechanic at a Harley-Davidson place once told me that he didn't have any batteries for my Honda, because "you could put one on there, but these batteries are too powerful! They'd spin your engine like there were no spark plugs in it." cool, so it'll start my bus and vibrator collection. Most excellent. I need a good crankin' battery in my life.
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Jan 23, 2016 01:07
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Sagebrush posted:A mechanic at a Harley-Davidson place once told me that he didn't have any batteries for my Honda, because "you could put one on there, but these batteries are too powerful! They'd spin your engine like there were no spark plugs in it." But will it power my custom chrome exhaust??? cursedshitbox posted:cool, so it'll start my bus and vibrator collection. Most excellent. I need a good crankin' battery in my life. Love runs on batteries :bigtran:
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Jan 23, 2016 01:59
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If I recall from bike school, Sportsters pull 120 amps when running the starter.
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Jan 23, 2016 02:13
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Hey so my VTR250 has been sitting for ages, and it runs, but not without choke. This was not a problem before the bike sat. This means the little idle fuel channel is clogged with varnish, right? How much of a bitch is that to fix?
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Jan 23, 2016 03:05
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But it's voltage, not amperage that determines how fast the starter will spin
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Jan 23, 2016 03:10
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Yeah. Any 12 volt battery can be used to safely run any 12 volt electrical system. A battery that's too small may have problems sourcing the current needed to spin the starter, but one that's larger than necessary is only bad because it's adding weight. No danger. I could give the H-D guy the benefit of the doubt and believe that he thought I had a 6 volt electrical system. In that case, he was right that a 12v battery wouldn't be suitable. But I don't think that was his reasoning.
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Jan 23, 2016 03:21
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:If I recall from bike school, Sportsters pull 120 amps when running the starter. considering my manager owns one, and it has a GRD starter off something that looks like a powerstroke, yeah I don't doubt it. Tactical Lesbian posted:Love runs on batteries :bigtran:  and Diesel! haha even in the olden days you could throw a 12v battery on a 6v car and sorta be okay to crank it. it'd blow the coil/lights/radio, and eventually the starter, but it'd crank fast as gently caress.
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Jan 23, 2016 06:31
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Running all the way back to the beginning of jumpstartchat: I ended up bump starting it instead, since my dad showed me how and there's a perfectly sized hill right at the end of my driveway. Coughed for nearly two minutes while the electrics tried to work out whether to favour the headlight or the sparkplug, finally revved up properly and then immediately had another coughing fit when I stepped on the brake  Basically it just needs a couple hours of high revs and no stopping whatsoever, ie motorway. Probably more than a couple tbh but that'll be enough to get let it not die idling at traffic lights. I could just rev it in my driveway I guess, but gently caress that boring noise.
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Jan 23, 2016 14:35
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Renaissance Robot posted:Running all the way back to the beginning of jumpstartchat: I ended up bump starting it instead, since my dad showed me how and there's a perfectly sized hill right at the end of my driveway. Put it up on a stand and put one of those cruise control things on it. I'm sure nothing can possibly go wrong with this plan.
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Jan 23, 2016 20:29
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If you have the means, I highly recommend it
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Jan 23, 2016 20:32
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I wonder if there's ever been a vehicle where you actually could take miles off by driving in reverse.
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Jan 23, 2016 21:13
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Am I missing something, or does my fuel tank not have a shut off valve? And if it doesn't have a shutoff valve, how was I supposed to get it off the tank without leaking gas everywhere? This is the underside of the tank.  One of the two black lines has this plastic bit in the middle, but otherwise both are connected directly to something in the engine. 
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Jan 23, 2016 21:13
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Do you have an electric or vacuum actuated petcock?
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Jan 23, 2016 21:17
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That's a fuel injected system and those are quick disconnectors on the fuel lines which should in theory shut off when they're disconnected. If they don't then the only solution is to find something to shove in there to plug it or disconnect the line somewhere else that does allow you to plug the line.
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Jan 23, 2016 21:27
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I had to unplug some wires from the tank before it would come off, so probably electric (read: I have no idea).
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Jan 23, 2016 21:29
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I spy a 1st gen Tuono tank.
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Jan 23, 2016 21:34
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Yeah those fuel connectors are typically self-sealing. But have something to block it if we're wrong.
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Jan 23, 2016 21:48
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Sagebrush posted:I wonder if there's ever been a vehicle where you actually could take miles off by driving in reverse. Most of them until about the mid-seventies (and a lot of them right into the eighties), I believe, although an electric drill connected to the speedo cable was the preferred method. (e: also using a drill to run them all the way round the clock works on every analogue odo, obviously)
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Jan 23, 2016 21:57
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Most of them until about the mid-seventies (and a lot of them right into the eighties), I believe, although an electric drill connected to the speedo cable was the preferred method. Came here to post this. Incidentally, diesel vehicles here pay tax based on miles covered so now all the olden diesels with cable speedos are in massive demand because you can drive all year then wind back the odo to show you've only done a few hundred km's and only pay like fifty bucks tax.
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Jan 23, 2016 22:43
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I wonder if shady used-car salesmen have figured out how to change the EEPROM values in a modern digital odometer yet? I really doubt there's any kind of serious security involved.
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Jan 23, 2016 22:50
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Sagebrush posted:I wonder if shady used-car salesmen have figured out how to change the EEPROM values in a modern digital odometer yet? I really doubt there's any kind of serious security involved. Its big business clocking cars on the second hand market here. although now the annual inspection includes the mileage on the cert, so that at least sets a minimum value that they can reset to. That presupposes that you got a valid inspection cert in the first place though. http://nmr.ie/car-clocking/
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Jan 23, 2016 22:59
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Sagebrush posted:I wonder if shady used-car salesmen have figured out how to change the EEPROM values in a modern digital odometer yet? I really doubt there's any kind of serious security involved. There is actually a surprising amount of security involved but yeah, most of them are breakable. The point of most of the security is to just make it preferable to target some other brand's cars. Actually that's applicable to most security, of course. (I remember a documentary a few years ago about it and they had one of these reformed ex-fraudster types talking about all this stuff, and he mentioned off-hand that VAG had particularly good security - I wonder why they would be so keen to keep people out of the ECU?)
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Jan 23, 2016 23:29
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My bike had a little issue starting the last couple of days, taking a few revolutions to catch. I figured it was the cold messing with the bike but today I learned that there wasn't enough juice 20 miles from home. Thankfully my brother in law is an ace pusher and helped me bump start. I've been riding the bike to and from work and I was riding the bike the entire saturday, most of them highway miles, so the battery wasn't flat from disuse. It's either the charging system of my battery. what are the smart steps to take? Jumpstart the bike so I can measure the voltage output at ~3000 rpm and if that's 14~15v I know the battery is shot? That that sound about right? edit: Also I've learned that bandit 1250's might have a problem with exploding starter motors. Good to know I guess, that gives me much hope for the future.
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Jan 24, 2016 02:29
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Sagebrush posted:I wonder if shady used-car salesmen have figured out how to change the EEPROM values in a modern digital odometer yet? I really doubt there's any kind of serious security involved. I bought a new fairing from a guy that came with his display and when I plugged it in to make sure it worked it popped up the mileage for his bike. So, if you're trying to scam someone you may be able to just buy a new display. As long as you have the same bike I do. KARMA! posted:My bike had a little issue starting the last couple of days, taking a few revolutions to catch. I figured it was the cold messing with the bike but today I learned that there wasn't enough juice 20 miles from home. Thankfully my brother in law is an ace pusher and helped me bump start. I've been riding the bike to and from work and I was riding the bike the entire saturday, most of them highway miles, so the battery wasn't flat from disuse. Check your R/R too.
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Jan 24, 2016 02:53
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KARMA! posted:
Yes exactly. I buy the cheapest batteries and store them poorly. They fail like you said, a few days of slow starting and eyebrows curving, then the engine stops running.
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Jan 24, 2016 03:02
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builds character posted:I bought a new fairing from a guy that came with his display and when I plugged it in to make sure it worked it popped up the mileage for his bike. So, if you're trying to scam someone you may be able to just buy a new display. As long as you have the same bike I do. Well, yeah, but that's equivalent to buying the gauge cluster out of a junkyard car. You need a bike somewhere that has the lower mileage you want, and that doesn't need its display. Much more flexible if you can just plug into a JTAG header and massage the numbers a bit.
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Jan 24, 2016 06:52
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So, since yesterday the tachometer on my cbr300r has been acting up. It goes up/down fine in relation to RPMs, but basically refuses to go under a certain limit even when the engine is idle or off. What this limit is keeps changing - this morning it refused to go under 6k, then under 9k after a bit of riding, now the bike is parked outside with the indicator at 2k. Is there a DIY fix to this or is it a dealer job? Shifting by habit and sound still works fine, of course, and there's no other issues as far as I can tell.
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Jan 24, 2016 23:04
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I'd check all the connections and battery terminals.
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Jan 24, 2016 23:14
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That's a weird one really because the only thing I can think of that could cause that would be something like a dodgy return spring on one of the really old systems that used the spark plug circuit to drive a thing the name of which I'm completely blanking on but it's like an electric motor that doesn't actually move. More modern stepper-motor ones are normally pretty much absolutely fine or completely broken.
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Jan 24, 2016 23:19
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I actually saw a CR's ninja 300 doing the same thing at my first track day. Wouldn't go below 10k. Dunno how it was fixed, though.
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Jan 24, 2016 23:26
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Pulled apart the front end of my 2011 Ninja 250 in an attempt to remedy my speedometer working intermittently. Got everything apart, documented it with photos, took the gauge cluster out and I think I got a bit of stickiness off that may have been affecting the speedo needle. Since I had the front end opened up, I decided to get replacement LED bulbs for my gauge cluster. Put them in, some worked (speedo and gas tank light, turn signal) but the others didn't light up. Figured it was since I didn't have all the wiring re connected. Really the only wiring I even touched was the headlight wiring and then disconnecting and reconnecting the gauge cluster. Got everything back together, and uhh, here's what still works. With the ignition on, the cluster backlights come on. Turn signals work in the front, back, and the indicator works on the cluster. Brake light works. The horn works. HOWEVER, I cannot get the bike to start. Putting the kill switch into ON and pressing the starter button does nothing, either with the kickstand up or down. I cannot get the neutral light to engage on the cluster. Headlight will not turn on. Not really sure what exactly I did wrong here, I didn't mess with any of the electronics going to the starter or ignition. The bike does have an aftermarket Bike Master Xenon HIDzzzz headlight with some additional ballasts that the PO installed. Any ideas on what I can try to do and troubleshoot this? Am I safe to assume that it's probably not the battery given that some of the electronics work?
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Jan 24, 2016 23:44
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In neutral does it work?
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Jan 24, 2016 23:48
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No. e: At least, from what I can tell, no. Since the neutral indicator light isn't coming on I guess I can't say with 100% certainty that I'm in neutral, but it sure feels like it. Laminator fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jan 24, 2016 |
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Jan 24, 2016 23:55
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If the neutral light isn't on, it's likely that the circuit handling the neutral-switch starter cutoff is also not working correctly. Can you start the bike in gear if you hold in the clutch?
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Jan 25, 2016 00:05
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You did check your fuses? Idiot question but, you know.
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Jan 25, 2016 00:07
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