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GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Thanks for the pointer; I've purchased it.


For future reference, the "Amazon Warehouse Deals" vendor sells the items that Amazon needs to take out of their packaging for purposes of photography, items whose packaging got damaged during shipping, and the like. They do also sell used items as well, but there's decent odds that this blade hasn't been used at all. For ~$3 I'm not exactly gambling much.

The single downside to the INCA 710 bandsaw is the fact that it uses an odd blade length of 104". No deals for me.

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wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

If I were going to purchase a sub-$900 new saw, it would be that one. Any saw under $1500 is going to come with compromises but I've had good luck with Delta.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Thanks for the pointer; I've purchased it.

You're welcome.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!
Who makes good quality bench or front vises? I want quick release and overall excellent quality, bonus if American made, (if anyone makes vises in this country anymore). New or Vintage, doesn't matter to me, $200 or under. (actually will probably be a used/vintage vise if I can find a good one at auction)

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


wormil posted:

If I were going to purchase a sub-$900 new saw, it would be that one. Any saw under $1500 is going to come with compromises but I've had good luck with Delta.


You're welcome.

Okay great,
I'd love to go with $xxxx saw but my "discretionary" budget is in the <$700 range

Also usually I'd expect to see $1500 saws sit in one spot.. I really like the fact that this one has a nice solid table, and can still fold up and be wheeled to where I need it. generally in the summer my grage turns into a workshop and lawnmower storage area.. winter time mower goes in shed, and all tools are neatly stored along the side so we can park 1-2 cars in it.

Edit:
How much beter is the 15 amp model?
36-5000

Apparently through completing some health surveys I can get $600 back in gift cards.. so that makes the saw $250.. but I can also drop those gift cards into amazon and make them free money for everything else I do throughout the year.

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jan 25, 2016

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

wormil posted:

Who makes good quality bench or front vises? I want quick release and overall excellent quality, bonus if American made, (if anyone makes vises in this country anymore). New or Vintage, doesn't matter to me, $200 or under. (actually will probably be a used/vintage vise if I can find a good one at auction)

Probably not what you are looking for, but a leg vise is IMO the bee's knees, and benchmade arguably makes the best one. You don't have to get their screw if you don't want, but the scissor mechanism is on my short list right after I get my kit filled out.

If you're looking for an end vise please ignore, and if your bench legs aren't in plane with the front edge of your bench top, also ignore.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Free Market Mambo posted:

I found a listing for an old drill press asking people to bid on it, it mentions that it's functional, but lacking some of the safety features required for modern professional use.

http://www.findit.fi/sve/search/942242.htm

I know nothing of these things, and am considering throwing 50 Euros at it. Does it require some sort of voodoo power souce? Will this thing kill me messily? I've been longing for a drill press, but enjoy having all my fingers.

I don't think you're getting that for less than 200 euros.

e: ALso do you have 3-phase in your apartment?

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Jan 25, 2016

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Mr. Mambold posted:

Google translate says: The drill works, but the protection required by today's worker is taken, therefore, it must not be used in proffesional use. 28 pieces of drills included.
i have no idea what was removed, but it looks like a plain vanilla Pelar borrmaskin to me. Plus 28 bits? Drill press is pretty safe tool, just clamp a fence to the table and go to town.

Emergency stops and the like. The translation is wrong, there's nothing taken, it's just missing the modern safety features. It's a pretty solid drill press with gears rather than having to mess with drive belts and the like.

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jan 25, 2016

Deedle
Oct 17, 2011
before you ask, yes I did inform the DMV of my condition and medication, and I passed the medical and psychological evaluation when I got my license. I've passed them every time I have gone to renew my license.

Free Market Mambo posted:

I found a listing for an old drill press asking people to bid on it, it mentions that it's functional, but lacking some of the safety features required for modern professional use.

http://www.findit.fi/sve/search/942242.htm

I know nothing of these things, and am considering throwing 50 Euros at it. Does it require some sort of voodoo power souce? Will this thing kill me messily? I've been longing for a drill press, but enjoy having all my fingers.
It looks to be missing the spindle guard, but let's be honest those things just get in the way. So I wouldn't care about that, unless you're planning to use it where Finnish OSHA is going to bother you about it.

Other than that it looks like it's wired for 3 phase power, but the plate on the motor says it takes single phase as well. Though you'll probably have to at least swap the power cord for that.

It looks like a steal at 50 euro.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
It's not single phase. 220/380V means it's an old motor, early 80s latest. Back when the 3-phase voltage was 380V (now harmonized across europe to 400V). The 220 means 220V 3-phase in Delta, which is what they use in Norway, in the rest of europe you hook the motor up in star configuration for 380/400V. All smaller 3-phase motors are made like this. Bigger motors are 400/690V.

3-phase is basic and even in an apartment which IIRC is what he lives in, you have 3-phase for the stove, but probably no actual outlets to plug it into (stoves have to be directly hooked up here). If he could get it for 50 euro it would already be in my garage :v:

Free Market Mambo
Jul 26, 2010

by Lowtax
That's what I was afraid of, my apartment is definitely not set up for three phase. Besides, my neighbors suffer enough with the sawing, mortising, and cursing. Thanks for the help!

Cpt.Wacky
Apr 17, 2005

wormil posted:

Who makes good quality bench or front vises? I want quick release and overall excellent quality, bonus if American made, (if anyone makes vises in this country anymore). New or Vintage, doesn't matter to me, $200 or under. (actually will probably be a used/vintage vise if I can find a good one at auction)

Paul Sellers recommended these ones from Lee Valley a few years ago: http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=49980&cat=1,41659

keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

Jay Bates just put out a video on the 3 vises he added to his new work bench, and those were one of them.

For the leg vice kit he mentions the guy making them uses scaffolding leveling feet to make it. He sells the kit for $150CDN but Home Depot has the parts for under $40. Probably even cheaper in the US.
Pretty cheap solution if you are interested in something like that as well.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

GEMorris posted:

Probably not what you are looking for, but a leg vise is IMO the bee's knees, and benchmade arguably makes the best one. You don't have to get their screw if you don't want, but the scissor mechanism is on my short list right after I get my kit filled out.

If you're looking for an end vise please ignore, and if your bench legs aren't in plane with the front edge of your bench top, also ignore.

I have plans for a leg vise, based on the Farm Leg Vise featured in early 20th century books. It's such a clever design I can't believe it's been forgotten.


Cpt.Wacky posted:

Paul Sellers recommended these ones from Lee Valley a few years ago: http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=49980&cat=1,41659

I've been looking at those but the handles look spindly.

Cpt.Wacky
Apr 17, 2005

wormil posted:

I've been looking at those but the handles look spindly.

They don't look any different from my Record 52 1/2 handles. I think think you're being a little too picky for your price point. I got my record vise from eBay where they pop up from time to time and go for around $275 + $50 shipping. I got lucky and mine was only $200+shipping.

Deedle
Oct 17, 2011
before you ask, yes I did inform the DMV of my condition and medication, and I passed the medical and psychological evaluation when I got my license. I've passed them every time I have gone to renew my license.

His Divine Shadow posted:

It's not single phase. 220/380V means it's an old motor, early 80s latest. Back when the 3-phase voltage was 380V (now harmonized across europe to 400V). The 220 means 220V 3-phase in Delta, which is what they use in Norway, in the rest of europe you hook the motor up in star configuration for 380/400V. All smaller 3-phase motors are made like this. Bigger motors are 400/690V.

3-phase is basic and even in an apartment which IIRC is what he lives in, you have 3-phase for the stove, but probably no actual outlets to plug it into (stoves have to be directly hooked up here). If he could get it for 50 euro it would already be in my garage :v:
Makes sense. I've lived anywhere that hasn't had "normal" 380/400V 3 phase.

In hindsight I wish I had put in 3 phase to my shop, because used 3 phase machines are stupidly cheap over here.
It's how my dad got a Bridgeport cnc mill for under a thousand euro.

If the market there is anything like it is here, that probably is a 50 drill press, undervalued to no end because the average home gamer can't use it.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Unfortunately here 3-phase isn't an obstacle to 99.9% of people who own a house , so no deals on equipment on account of that, usually just means it's worth more. The limits imposed on the average workshop are the fuses which are 16A per phase. This limits you to things with motors around 7.5kw in size or thereabouts and if they gotta spin something heavy like a cutterhead you need a softstarter of some kind. I bet that drill press won't go for less than 200 as I said, unless the seller is really unlucky and desperate.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
3-phase in residential housing? Jesus, Scandinavia is magic Christmas land all year.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/5391730378.html

Someone please go buy this thing. If I could only keep one power tool of mine, this would be it.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

GEMorris posted:

3-phase in residential housing? Jesus, Scandinavia is magic Christmas land all year.

It's our analogue to your 240V outlets. Sorta. You hardly ever need 3-ph unless you got a workshop, so mostly it's one sole 3ph outlet near the central and fixed installations to things like stovetops. Unless you got a garage/workshop, then you usually add at least a few more outlets. I don't think it actually costs more to do it this way in terms of equipment or material or complexity. It's just what the people who designed our electricity grid felt was rational.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
So I just got my veritas small plow plane in the mail.

Wow, what an absolutely fantastic tool. This thing totally earns all the hype around it. I'd say this absolutely should be your second or third specialty/joinery plane, right after a router plane and maybe a shoulder plane.

It's really that good, I'm still stunned.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

GEMorris posted:

So I just got my veritas small plow plane in the mail.

Wow, what an absolutely fantastic tool. This thing totally earns all the hype around it. I'd say this absolutely should be your second or third specialty/joinery plane, right after a router plane and maybe a shoulder plane.

It's really that good, I'm still stunned.

I love mine, so satisfying to use.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

Cpt.Wacky posted:

They don't look any different from my Record 52 1/2 handles. I think think you're being a little too picky for your price point. I got my record vise from eBay where they pop up from time to time and go for around $275 + $50 shipping. I got lucky and mine was only $200+shipping.

I am being picky but not too picky. Nothing against the LV vises, I'm sure they are good quality but I happen to like beefy handles.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!
If anyone is looking to buy a lathe chuck, Amazon has the Nova G3 for $89. Only 17 left in stock, better hurry! Seriously though, this is a great price. There is also an Amazon Warehouse deal on that page for $83. The description says it will only fit a Nova Comet II lathe but the reviews state otherwise. It is 1x8 thread. I'm tempted to buy a second one at this price.

DAAS Kapitalist
Nov 9, 2005

Jackass: The Mad Monk

Don't try this at home.

MetaJew posted:

I wound up buying the Dewalt DW7491RS jobsite saw and stand along with some high tooth count Diablo blade for finish and cross cuts.

How is that working out for you? I don't have anywhere to put a proper table saw. Wouldn't expect much from a jobsite saw, but it has to beat cutting everything by hand. I've used a table saw at a local woodworking club, but using power tools in the evening after work isn't really safe for me so I stopped going.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
I still maintain that people who are extremely space constrained (but can at least leave the tool in a few sq ft of floor, e.g. they don't have to pack it up in a cabinet when not in use) are better served both in function and safety with a bandsaw, a jointer plane, and a router plane, rather than a cheap-ish table saw.

DAAS Kapitalist
Nov 9, 2005

Jackass: The Mad Monk

Don't try this at home.
I'd have to use it outside under a carport, and there's steps to get it back inside, which would be hard going with any decent bandsaw, let alone a table saw.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

DAAS Kapitalist posted:

I'd have to use it outside under a carport, and there's steps to get it back inside, which would be hard going with any decent bandsaw, let alone a table saw.

In that kind of environment I don't think I could recommend anything other than a track saw and collapsible worktable system like festool.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

DAAS Kapitalist posted:

How is that working out for you? I don't have anywhere to put a proper table saw. Wouldn't expect much from a jobsite saw, but it has to beat cutting everything by hand. I've used a table saw at a local woodworking club, but using power tools in the evening after work isn't really safe for me so I stopped going.

I'm very happy with it. The fence is accurate, locks in place tightly and everything stows away compactly. I certainly would love to have a Sawstop or Grizzly hybrid saw, but for my basic woodworking and carpentry needs I think this will serve me well. I do wish I had some sort of outfeed table for it, but that's something I can either fabricate or buy. I also need to make some more push sticks for it, and I'd like to make a crosscut jig or one day a box joint jig.

I used it the other day to cut down a 2'x4' sheet of 1/2" aspen plywood and it did the job well. A longer infeed would be nice too when you're dealing with longer stock, but if you're careful evertyhing seems to work well.

The first thing I made with it were some false window sills to replace the damaged MDF ones on either side of my front door. I wanted to raise them higher up so that I wouldn't have to notch out the baseboard I'm installing.

DAAS Kapitalist
Nov 9, 2005

Jackass: The Mad Monk

Don't try this at home.
A track saw doesn't really help me, I'm not using a lot of sheet goods.

DAAS Kapitalist
Nov 9, 2005

Jackass: The Mad Monk

Don't try this at home.

MetaJew posted:

I'm very happy with it. The fence is accurate, locks in place tightly and everything stows away compactly. I certainly would love to have a Sawstop or Grizzly hybrid saw, but for my basic woodworking and carpentry needs I think this will serve me well.

Thanks for that. That was what made me look at that one - it's got the best fence of any of the jobsite saws.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

DAAS Kapitalist posted:

A track saw doesn't really help me, I'm not using a lot of sheet goods.

Having to be completely mobile (pack up after every session), and using lumber, not sheet goods, doesn't leave a whole lot of options that are good, IMO. If you want to go the hand tool route even a knock down Nicholson bench is going to get old setting up and breaking down. You'd honestly be better off going down the Japanese route in that case. If you're committed to western style then working from sawbenches is a possibility. If power tools are going to be your thing, then yeah, in this case a job site table saw and a workmate may be your answer, as much as I'm personally lothe to recommend it.

Edit: schwarz did do a thing on this: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/workbenches/schwarz-workbenches/the-milkmans-workbench-in-use

GEMorris fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Jan 26, 2016

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Okay now you all have me thinking

Dewalt DW7491RS
Or
Delta 36-725

Dewalt advantage is it can be "free" since I have $600 in gift cards for taking some health "classes" at work that I can only pick from limited places, HD is there lowes isnt.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

tater_salad posted:

Okay now you all have me thinking

Dewalt DW7491RS
Or
Delta 36-725

Dewalt advantage is it can be "free" since I have $600 in gift cards for taking some health "classes" at work that I can only pick from limited places, HD is there lowes isnt.

Do you also have the constraints of transport-setup-packup for every session? Do you plan to work primarily in sheet goods? Do you plan to not use hand tools? If you said no to all of those, and you have $600 in home depot valid gift cards, then: http://m.homedepot.com/p/Delta-14-in-1-HP-Steel-Frame-Band-Saw-28-400/205112078

Edit: missed that there's no fence with that saw it seems, you'll need this too then: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007...6F6L&ref=plSrch

I mean, folks do your thing, not being preachy, its just that a good 14"+ bandsaw is going to still be in your shop after you've upgraded your table saw twice. As long as you can joint the edge (pick up a Stanley 6-8 sized plane on eBay, pre-ww2 era) then a bandsaw is going to be a crapton safer than a job site saw, especially for someone with no/low experience.

GEMorris fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Jan 26, 2016

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

GEMorris posted:

Do you also have the constraints of transport-setup-packup for every session? Do you plan to work primarily in sheet goods? Do you plan to not use hand tools? If you said no to all of those, and you have $600 in home depot valid gift cards, then: http://m.homedepot.com/p/Delta-14-in-1-HP-Steel-Frame-Band-Saw-28-400/205112078

Edit: missed that there's no fence with that saw it seems, you'll need this too then: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007...6F6L&ref=plSrch

I mean, folks do your thing, not being preachy, its just that a good 14"+ bandsaw is going to still be in your shop after you've upgraded your table saw twice. As long as you can joint the edge (pick up a Stanley 6-8 sized plane on eBay, pre-ww2 era) then a bandsaw is going to be a crapton safer than a job site saw, especially for someone with no/low experience.

I'm in this market as well, and have been sizing up some of the "upscale" saws. My limitation is size (I've got workspace I can leave it out in, but not a large shop so it needs to be stowable) and footprint (the shop is in the basement, and there's basically no way I'm getting anything that can't fit down some basement well stairs and through a smallish door down there). I was also eying the DWE7491RS because it seems to fit my bill for "movable".

But your argument in favor of a band saw intrigues me.

What's a band saw good for, aside from long, accurate rips? It seems like a table saw would be better for ripping sheet goods since it's got a much bigger base of support, and I can also use it to cut dados. After that, it seems very flexible in terms of jigs I could put together for cutting things like box joints, wheras a band saw seems like kind of a one-trick pony (albeit doing that trick rather well).

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

Hubis posted:

I'm in this market as well, and have been sizing up some of the "upscale" saws. My limitation is size (I've got workspace I can leave it out in, but not a large shop so it needs to be stowable) and footprint (the shop is in the basement, and there's basically no way I'm getting anything that can't fit down some basement well stairs and through a smallish door down there). I was also eying the DWE7491RS because it seems to fit my bill for "movable".

But your argument in favor of a band saw intrigues me.

What's a band saw good for, aside from long, accurate rips? It seems like a table saw would be better for ripping sheet goods since it's got a much bigger base of support, and I can also use it to cut dados. After that, it seems very flexible in terms of jigs I could put together for cutting things like box joints, wheras a band saw seems like kind of a one-trick pony (albeit doing that trick rather well).

First off if sheet goods are primarily your thing, I think a track saw is a better and safer answer than a table saw, but a bandsaw definitely inst your target first saw.

As for what you can do? Rips are one of the primary tasks (with no risk of kickback) but joinery (tennon cheeks, even dovetails with a jig) are all doable on a bandsaw. They can also be great for tapers: http://blog.lostartpress.com/2015/05/07/straight-dope-on-band-saws-tapers/ People think of the bandsaw as primarily a tool for cutting curves, but for me its a ripsaw first and a power joinery saw second. Schwarz lists the bandsaw as the #2 powered tool to help the hand tool woodworker (the first being the power planer).

Duginskie and Bird have both explained it in far more detail than I can:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1565238419/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/15615...7EYEYF9BBD1RTSA

bimmian
Oct 16, 2008

wormil posted:

If anyone is looking to buy a lathe chuck, Amazon has the Nova G3 for $89. Only 17 left in stock, better hurry! Seriously though, this is a great price. There is also an Amazon Warehouse deal on that page for $83. The description says it will only fit a Nova Comet II lathe but the reviews state otherwise. It is 1x8 thread. I'm tempted to buy a second one at this price.

woot, thanks. Was waiting to see if that would go on sale.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

GEMorris posted:

First off if sheet goods are primarily your thing, I think a track saw is a better and safer answer than a table saw, but a bandsaw definitely inst your target first saw.

As for what you can do? Rips are one of the primary tasks (with no risk of kickback) but joinery (tennon cheeks, even dovetails with a jig) are all doable on a bandsaw. They can also be great for tapers: http://blog.lostartpress.com/2015/05/07/straight-dope-on-band-saws-tapers/ People think of the bandsaw as primarily a tool for cutting curves, but for me its a ripsaw first and a power joinery saw second. Schwarz lists the bandsaw as the #2 powered tool to help the hand tool woodworker (the first being the power planer).

Duginskie and Bird have both explained it in far more detail than I can:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1565238419/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/15615...7EYEYF9BBD1RTSA

Thanks, I'll mull this over.

As for the track saw, yeah that's something I'm looking into now. I've already got a quite serviceable circular saw, so I'm trying to find an accessory to leverage that rather than get another specialized tool.

Either something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TXSAHU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
+ Good for cuts in the middle of a piece
+ doesn't require a squared edge
- Doesn't affix to the shoe (I read the mounting plate was a piece of crap and for another $20 I don't feel like buying it blind)
- Limited rip length


or this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K5HIFS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
+ Affixes to the saw for consistent cuts
+ Good for really long rips
- Requires a squared edge
- Still not clamped to the piece, so kickback could mess things up

Anyone have thoughts/experience with those? I've been using a makeshift guide out of a 4'x1/2" strip, but getting that located and clamped can be a pain so a $20-40 tool to automate it for me would be great.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I've been woodworking since I was 7 (albeit not using a table saw at that point
)

Maybe you can change my mind

My desire for a table saw is that I can set the fence and cut a piece the same size several times and have straight accurate cuts. I don't want to have to dick around with adjusting all the time drift.

My experience with a bandsaw is a 12" craftsman that walks all over, it's great for roughing pieces to make easier to follow a template for the router , but a straight cut.. ugh no effing way.

My power tools at my disposal.
1. Circular saw with okay aluminum fences
2. Chop saw
3. Unsafe table saw from grandpas house, used once will place in gsrbage.
4. Router and makeshift table.
5. Drill press
6. Thickness planer (needs new blades)

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
A large bandsaw is good for ripping and dimensioning sawn timber straight from the lumberyard. This is a good way to save money on lumber as it's cheaper to buy from there than ready planed lumber from big box stores.

My general recommendation is to go bigger than 14" if you can swing it. If you wanna resaw and use thicker blades, bigger wheels help since the blades need to bend less around the wheel and increase their lifespan. 20" wheels or thereabouts would be my idea of the most suitable size rather than 14".

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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

tater_salad posted:

I've been woodworking since I was 7 (albeit not using a table saw at that point
)

Maybe you can change my mind

My desire for a table saw is that I can set the fence and cut a piece the same size several times and have straight accurate cuts. I don't want to have to dick around with adjusting all the time drift.

My experience with a bandsaw is a 12" craftsman that walks all over, it's great for roughing pieces to make easier to follow a template for the router , but a straight cut.. ugh no effing way.

My power tools at my disposal.
1. Circular saw with okay aluminum fences
2. Chop saw
3. Unsafe table saw from grandpas house, used once will place in gsrbage.
4. Router and makeshift table.
5. Drill press
6. Thickness planer (needs new blades)

What kind of table saw is it? One of those small cheap ones? Just wondering so you don't throw away something potentially valuable. A properly set bandsaw should have no drift to correct for. Easier said than done however.

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