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Slimnoid posted:Finished up the Wights. Those Wights have the Blues!  And also they are nicely painted.
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Jan 30, 2016 01:28
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Wrapped up three Meganobz, plus their grot buddies. I simplified the scheme a little bit because of how many plates of armor there were, and I think it was the right decision. I also liked getting the ammo cherub from the Devastator kit and making him an ammo runt with the help of a Grot head.        
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Jan 30, 2016 01:34
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ijyt posted:Are you just using a sheet or a lightbox? You want the bounced light from the ceiling of the box to be the overhead light. I'm using one of those folding light boxes you can get on Amazon, with a white sheet inside (since the one the box came with kinda sucked). I've got the two lights (using daylight bulbs) pointing from the left and right sides, angled slightly downwards due to the way the lights are hooked up. Taking photos is not one of my strong suits.
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Jan 30, 2016 02:03
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Slimnoid posted:Taking photos is not one of my strong suits. I'm about to make you feel a lot better about yourself!  These are posted in the order in which I painted them.     I'm happy with little details on each of them - you can't see it, but the face visor parts actually do have a little glow gradient in them. But I'm still only just getting to a place where I'm happy with the things as a whole. What new things do I need to try, and what of what I'm already doing do I need the most work on?
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Jan 30, 2016 02:13
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Holy poo poo SRM that ammo grotrub. That should be a real thing you can buy from GW.
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Jan 30, 2016 02:15
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Not really a painting question but, is there a storage system out there that has fully modular foam, bags that fit the foam, and cardboard boxes for non-transport storage that is not Battlefoam yet
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Jan 30, 2016 03:18
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signalnoise posted:Not really a painting question but, is there a storage system out there that has fully modular foam, bags that fit the foam, and cardboard boxes for non-transport storage that is not Battlefoam yet Feldherr or KR Multicase. Pick whichever has foam configurations you like more.
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Jan 30, 2016 03:18
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Avenging Dentist posted:Feldherr or KR Multicase. Pick whichever has foam configurations you like more. So no, I guess
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Jan 30, 2016 03:24
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signalnoise posted:So no, I guess I'm... not sure what you're asking? What's bad about Feldherr or KR Multicase?
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Jan 30, 2016 03:33
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signalnoise posted:So no, I guess KR does all the things you listed. Unless I don't know what you mean by modular.
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Jan 30, 2016 03:37
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KR's pick and pluck is weird. I checked feldherr again and they have regular pick and pluck but they want 50 loving dollars per box for the foam and it has no edging. I should specify I guess that I'm looking to store larger models like bigass dwarven tanks and poo poo I like GamePlus and Blu's offerings but they don't have a cardboard box option. poo poo is driving me nuts
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Jan 30, 2016 03:38
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signalnoise posted:KR's pick and pluck is weird. I checked feldherr again and they have regular pick and pluck but they want 50 loving dollars per box for the foam and it has no edging. So don't buy the pick and pluck? They have standard foam with slots including tank and dreadnaught trays and also custom foam for various games (though it's mostly 40k centric)
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Jan 30, 2016 03:41
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signalnoise posted:KR's pick and pluck is weird. I checked feldherr again and they have regular pick and pluck but they want 50 loving dollars per box for the foam and it has no edging. Where are you seeing this? None of the boxes are $50 (the cardboard ones which you seem interested in are $10), and I have no idea what edging is.
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Jan 30, 2016 03:43
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JoshTheStampede posted:So don't buy the pick and pluck? They have standard foam with slots including tank and dreadnaught trays and also custom foam for various games (though it's mostly 40k centric) Believe me, I am like mister KR multicase. I just know what I want and it's not that. Thank you for preachin though, they do deserve it Avenging Dentist posted:Where are you seeing this? None of the boxes are $50 (the cardboard ones which you seem interested in are $10), and I have no idea what edging is. https://www.feldherr.net/1000-mm-x-500-mm-x-100-mm-raster-15-mm-pick-and-pluck-pre-cubed-foam-tray/a-53570/ I could've picked my phrasing better I suppose. Edging is having a solid wall on the outside
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Jan 30, 2016 03:46
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signalnoise posted:https://www.feldherr.net/1000-mm-x-500-mm-x-100-mm-raster-15-mm-pick-and-pluck-pre-cubed-foam-tray/a-53570/ Do you really need foam that's a meter long by half a meter wide? How big is the crap you're storing? Nearly all of the normal-sized foam inserts are cheaper and have edging. That foam is designed mainly for stuff like huge board game boxes, which is why it has no edging: it's to let you easily reduce the overall size so it fits in the box.
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Jan 30, 2016 04:16
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Avenging Dentist posted:Do you really need foam that's a meter long by half a meter wide? How big is the crap you're storing? Nearly all of the normal-sized foam inserts are cheaper and have edging. That foam is designed mainly for stuff like huge board game boxes, which is why it has no edging: it's to let you easily reduce the overall size so it fits in the box. Aha, I'm dumb
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Jan 30, 2016 04:29
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Slimnoid posted:Finished up the Wights. these cats have the best shields
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Jan 30, 2016 13:08
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grassy gnoll posted:What new things do I need to try, and what of what I'm already doing do I need the most work on? - more pronounced highlights on the blue, maybe something like on the wights above? - grab some glaze medium (I like Vallejo's), it's amazing for smoothing highlights and OSL.
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Jan 30, 2016 13:27
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I painted up Mutoid Mek! He counts as a Big Mek with 'eavy armor, cybork body, KFF, kombiflamer, and power klaw if I feel like it.     
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Jan 30, 2016 20:14
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Slimnoid posted:Finished up the Wights. So Age of Sigmar guys, some skellies from Tomb Kings/Vampire Counts, and one sword looks like a Chaos Marauder. Did I miss anything? Great figures, I'm thinking of a similar blue colour for my Undead.
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Jan 30, 2016 23:16
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Weirdo posted:So Age of Sigmar guys, some skellies from Tomb Kings/Vampire Counts, and one sword looks like a Chaos Marauder. Did I miss anything? Chaos Warrior sword, actually, though there IS a marauder sword on the rightmost Wight. The skellies are old VC Grave Guard I had kicking around. As for the blue, it's a pretty simple recipe: P3 Exile Blue > P3 Cygnar Blue Highlight > VGC Electric Blue (at least, I think it's this color--the name rubbed off ages ago) > GW Asurmen Blue wash > Electric Blue highlight > P3 Arcane Blue highlight > RMS Pure White at select points. There's probably an easier way to do this but I've grown used to how it works and when working in batches of models, it really doesn't take much time at all to do.
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Jan 30, 2016 23:57
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Orcboys and Shaman finished. From the Oath thread.  This is the last rank for these guys. Pretty glad they are done finally so I can paint something else.  
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Jan 31, 2016 12:12
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Those Orcs own. The shield swaps are such a simple thing but they really give them character and variety, and painting them in that red was a great idea.
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Jan 31, 2016 15:59
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Finished up some 30k World Eaters. Making things a light grey rather than real white actually makes me think I could paint a whole army of this.   ]
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Jan 31, 2016 16:00
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You missed the eye lenses! Other than that they look ready for the tabletop.
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Jan 31, 2016 16:33
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Love the blood-spatter.
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Jan 31, 2016 16:38
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Pierzak posted:- basing My dark secret is that I am intensely anxious about spending time and effort to make nice bases, then putting them down on a table that doesn't match. Are there some minimalist-but-still-nicer bases out there? Most of them do actually have a glaze highlight, but I'm not pushing it enough - it's like one shade up. How much is too much, and if I gently caress it up, can I paint over it and restart without having to strip the entire mini? Somewhat related, is my glaze medium hosed, or does it take intensely long periods of time to dry versus the regular acrylic paint?
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Jan 31, 2016 16:42
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grassy gnoll posted:My dark secret is that I am intensely anxious about spending time and effort to make nice bases, then putting them down on a table that doesn't match. Are there some minimalist-but-still-nicer bases out there? Lots of people worry about the bases matching the table, but in reality as long as they look good together they won't look out of place on a table. At a certain point it's a shame to spend hours making a mini look good and then putting it on a chintzy base you spend 2 minutes on. You can't really effectively strip part of a mini, but don't let that stop you from pushing your highlights - you really won't ruin it, anything you screw up is fixable with some paint, and you can always paint a new mini. You won't know until you try. IS your glaze medium Vallejo? If so, yes, it takes a long time to dry if you use a lot of it, and it also dries very shiny. I switched to GW's Lahmian Medium for glazes because it has neither of these issues.
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Jan 31, 2016 16:58
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If you're worried about bases not matching the table you could always go for clear ones.
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Jan 31, 2016 18:01
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Six bloodtrackers down. I need to reattach arms to three, and then paint the leader.
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Jan 31, 2016 18:19
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JoshTheStampede posted:Lots of people worry about the bases matching the table, but in reality as long as they look good together they won't look out of place on a table. At a certain point it's a shame to spend hours making a mini look good and then putting it on a chintzy base you spend 2 minutes on. Yeah, I was mostly worried about screwing up, like, the top of a mini's head and then having to strip and redo the whole thing. I am using Vallejo, usually about 1:1 or 1:2 medium to paint, which is probably not helping the slow drying. Can I replicate the effect with matte medium, or does that keep things too thick?
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Jan 31, 2016 19:46
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grassy gnoll posted:Yeah, I was mostly worried about screwing up, like, the top of a mini's head and then having to strip and redo the whole thing. You can use matte medium plus water. The medium will make the paint translucent, and if its too thick to use at that point you can water it down the rest of the way. For that matter you can probably use just water. Some paints break down and separate when you add a bunch of water, others don't. Getting over the fear of screwing up what you've already done is hard. You have to cultivate a very specific mix of caring about your work and not caring if you screw it up.
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Jan 31, 2016 19:57
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Another supplies question: I'm looking at this thing http://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/tables-for-painting/14-paint-station.html I really want it but I don't want it enough to drop 30 bucks on shipping. Anyone know a US-based alternative that is actually good
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Jan 31, 2016 20:23
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signalnoise posted:I'm looking at this thing http://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/tables-for-painting/14-paint-station.html Get that thing, it's great. When I looked around for stuff like this, I found that HobbyZone's prices are cheap enough that it's hard to find a significantly better deal even with shipping factored in. Also note that you can get even cheaper if you email them, because they can remove the cost of VAT: http://www.hobbyzone.pl/vatfree/ e: Oh, and I got the one that's one size up, partly because I'd heard that it was really easy to snap one of the curved pieces on the smallest table. But if you're careful, it probably won't be an issue. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jan 31, 2016 |
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Jan 31, 2016 20:32
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signalnoise posted:Another supplies question: Thanks for linking that, it looks like it might solve my problem of quickly having to clear my desk before my 3 year old trashes everything. Much better than throwing everything into a box and quickly hiding it.
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Jan 31, 2016 20:42
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richyp posted:Thanks for linking that, it looks like it might solve my problem of quickly having to clear my desk before my 3 year old trashes everything. Much better than throwing everything into a box and quickly hiding it. The Modular Workshop System is also awesome. You get little 12" x 6" x 6" modules of various configurations that stick together with magnets. You can either set em up in a dedicated hobby area, or do like I do and stuff em in the closet. If I need a module, I can just pull it out and take it to my desk.
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Jan 31, 2016 20:45
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I may end up getting some of that to qualify for VAT-free purchasing, but it will involve a wifely convo.........
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Jan 31, 2016 20:52
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Avenging Dentist posted:The Modular Workshop System is also awesome. You get little 12" x 6" x 6" modules of various configurations that stick together with magnets. You can either set em up in a dedicated hobby area, or do like I do and stuff em in the closet. If I need a module, I can just pull it out and take it to my desk. Too late I already ordered the "Professional" painting station, it's just the right width to quickly slide it into the desk cabinet before the destroyer of toys arrives. The mixture of shelf sizes is a nice feature too, so I can stick whichever Vallejo and GW paint's I'm using on model away with everything rather than having to sort through the pile of paints each time. Should arrive in a couple of days too, which gives me time to finish the new Tomb Raider game before working on some more of the Calth and Infinity stuff I've been piling up. EDIT: Having a rofessional painting table mean's I can stick "Pro-Painted" on future ebay stuff now right? richyp fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Jan 31, 2016 |
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Jan 31, 2016 20:53
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Finally got this dude on a plinth, only a year after I painted him!
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Jan 31, 2016 21:19
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Avenging Dentist posted:The Modular Workshop System is also awesome. You get little 12" x 6" x 6" modules of various configurations that stick together with magnets. You can either set em up in a dedicated hobby area, or do like I do and stuff em in the closet. If I need a module, I can just pull it out and take it to my desk. It is a major problem trying to figure out which of the things in my collection of materials deserve a permanent spot on my desk
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Feb 1, 2016 01:01
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