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Phone posted:I just love the juxtaposition of these old dudes railing against technology at all costs and can't deduce how it'd be feasible for a computer to figure out a math problem that is appropriate for literal school children. Still doesn't explain why they think it's impossible to strip a gear, Mazda must be making defective gears!
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Jan 29, 2016 19:35
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| # ? May 14, 2024 22:44 |
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I need some advice on an issue I'm having with a mechanic. I went to get an alignment done at this local shop and a few days later the car developed this clunking/cracking noise when turning the wheel and sometimes when shifting weight while starting/stopping. I took it back and they diagnosed it to be worn control arm bushings, which I don't deny at all since the car is old and I have no previous maintenance records so the bushings could still be factory for all I know. The weird thing is that after I get the car back, the noise has completely disappeared. The shop says that it's probably because while they were prodding around, they used a crowbar to check the play and the parts got lodged in such a way that there is now no more noise. However, looking around online, people are saying that loose alignment bolts could be the cause of a noise like that. What I'm suspecting is that the shop took the car in, fixed the bolts, but didn't tell me because they didn't want to have to re-align the car or perhaps even replace the bolts. My question is, does the shop's story seem plausible or should I get another alignment somewhere else because driving around on loose bolts means that my alignment is hosed? I haven't had any problems with this shop before but they did recently change ownership so I'm a little suspicious.
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Jan 29, 2016 19:45
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The shop's story is plausible. Two things were rubbing together and now they're not. The real crime is doing an alignment when the car has old/worn/dead bushings.
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Jan 29, 2016 23:09
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Prying around could tighten up fitment on parts, but at the same time if it did that there would have been enough movement to cause the alignment to go bad. I would ask them when they have some down time to bring in the car and check if the alignment is still good. The bad news is that even though you just got an alignment if you need to replace suspension components you'll need to get another alignment after you replace them. On the subject of replacing alignment bolts it's generally not a bad idea to do it any time you're going to have a Miata aligned and torque them as hard as you can with a breaker bar. If you bring them replacements they'll probably do it for the same cost as the alignment since they're loosening those bolts to align it anyways. You could call and ask them and if they don't want to do that you could replace them at home while trying not to move the offset washers as best as possible and immediately drive to the alignment shop after. Agree with Joe Mama here though, they should have noticed something was loose when they were aligning it the first time and called you or canceled the job.
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Jan 29, 2016 23:15
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Thanks, I was hoping that it was just my paranoia. I don't know why they didn't notice how loose it was, but to be fair I don't really notice it while I'm driving either so maybe it's not quite so far gone yet.
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Jan 30, 2016 00:44
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The thing that makes me believe the shop is that the clunking didn't start as soon as you drove away. Seems like improperly tightened suspension bolts should start clunking nearly immediately.
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Jan 30, 2016 00:46
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I don't need this, but for $950 it's only got 136k and a manual... http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/5423518226.html
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Jan 30, 2016 02:57
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Now that I've firmed up my other car the roll in my NA is starting to get to me. It's on the original suspension at about 78k miles and some newer Toyo Eclipses from the local tire chain on the OEM 14s. They were a warranty replacements for PO's tires which had the 60 mph shake. These have it too, but I get unlimited free Roadforce balances from that tire shop, so I can always get it fixed if I'd like. I'm thinking of putting on the FM stage 1 Tokico package and possibly some better tires so it's not completely wasted on the rubber I have now. Would you guys recommend the Tokicos for street driving? What tires would you recommend for the same? I might dip into an autocross a couple of times but my priority is street. From what I hear the Direzza ZIIs aren't a good option there. blk fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 07:27
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Personally the cheapest I'd go is Koni yellows. Tokicos are garbage imo, seen too many of them leak.
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Jan 30, 2016 08:21
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leica posted:Personally the cheapest I'd go is Koni yellows. Tokicos are garbage imo, seen too many of them leak. Koni or Bilstein. You can shop around and get 4 Bilstein for around $400
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Jan 30, 2016 17:40
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blk posted:Now that I've firmed up my other car the roll in my NA is starting to get to me. It's on the original suspension at about 78k miles and some newer Toyo Eclipses from the local tire chain on the OEM 14s. They were a warranty replacements for PO's tires which had the 60 mph shake. These have it too, but I get unlimited free Roadforce balances from that tire shop, so I can always get it fixed if I'd like. You're overdue a new suspension - go Koni or Bilstein. See how new shocks and a balance affect the 60 mph shimmy (if any) first. edit: beaten
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Jan 30, 2016 17:53
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Bilstein B6 with stock springs? The KYB AGX are a little cheaper - any good? blk fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 20:00
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blk posted:Bilstein B6 with stock springs?
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Jan 30, 2016 21:42
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blk posted:Bilstein B6 with stock springs? Popular budget option is something like a bilstein with ebay coilover sleeves and quality springs. Like this http://tiny.cc/xyqp8x If it's body roll and a "dull" feeling you are looking to correct, this will solve it. (maybe softer springs, 400F/300R?) KYB AGX should be avoided. on tires, having driven both 200tw and ordinary all seasons I would give the advantage to normal tires. 200tw has high noise, fast wear, harsher ride, and higher cost. It's surprising how much grip all-seasons will generate. I autocrossed my 2002 on all season tires, and here is a video of another stock 2002 on RE71 on the same course, there is a two second difference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgKU6wJAqms https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTvmLflOPoE Chriskory fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 21:55
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blk posted:Bilstein B6 with stock springs? No no no. If you're going to autoX don't go any cheaper than Konis. The advantage of Konis over Bilsteins are that the Konis are adjustable and it helps big time on the street when you want it softer. I have Konis and the adjustability is tits. I don't think I'd want Bilsteins for street.
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Jan 30, 2016 23:29
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Yes I change my answer to koni. They're on sale occasionally if you don't mind waiting. The adjustment also allows you to bring them back in once they start showing their age, just a few turns to take the years off. Lifetime warranty too.
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Jan 31, 2016 00:24
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If you're running autox compound street tires, Koni race shocks with 700/400 springs is a really solid combo for cheap. Most autox tires are fine for street driving as well, I DD my Re-71Rs and the biggest concern is just wear. Pretty much any autox compound debuted after the Z1 star specs has obscene amounts of wet traction.
Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jan 31, 2016 |
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Jan 31, 2016 00:45
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Finally got around to test fitting the wheels I picked up 2 weeks ago.   
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Jan 31, 2016 22:32
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3524uZSGFE I'm officially sick of autocrossing with street tires and an open differential.
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Feb 1, 2016 01:55
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What in the loving gently caress.
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Feb 1, 2016 04:22
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Yeah, that seems like someone hosed up on timing car releases.
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Feb 1, 2016 05:16
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Yeah, was just about to post that. How the gently caress does a course get designed that poorly, or is this supposed to be a one car out at a time sort of thing (which is also bad). Edit: removed my unintentional sick burn destructo fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 05:30
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We are actually different people. (I don't ironically read m.net)
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Feb 1, 2016 05:39
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I can deal with it as a course design, but then you need to make sure you gap cars properly and red-flag if someone does something to gently caress that up.
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Feb 1, 2016 06:33
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That's what your Winter is like? gently caress you, my Miata is in a goddamn storage unit. 
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Feb 1, 2016 08:10
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It's worse than that, he's lost like 30 feet away from the course on the other side of a cone "wall" or two. He's fully backwards on my track, nothing to do with spacing. See that cone far away on the center-right? Thats where he is supposed to be. I didnt even notice him until the video, i'm eyes left for the next cone. However later on in the day when working I did get yelled at over the radio for "waving the red flag too many times" (ie when a worker was on the course and a car was coming). I stopped and my fellow course worker was nearly killed by a boxster. Atomizer posted:That's what your Winter is like? gently caress you, my Miata is in a goddamn storage unit. Come to florida in august and then we will decide who got the short end of the weather stick. MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 14:08
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So about 1.5k miles after changing my belt I noticed that every 5 minutes or so my engine will chirp and bog down for like a fraction of a second. Could the timing be off due to the belt breaking in or is this unrelated?
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Feb 1, 2016 19:43
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Partial Octopus posted:So about 1.5k miles after changing my belt I noticed that every 5 minutes or so my engine will chirp and bog down for like a fraction of a second. Could the timing be off due to the belt breaking in or is this unrelated? If the timing is off it's going to run like crap all the time and very noticeably so. When a timing belt jumps it usually does so in just one direction (the direction it's being pulled) and having "bad timing" come and go like that would be strange indeed. So I'd guess it's something else entirely.
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Feb 1, 2016 20:20
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Doesn't chirping normally come from belts? I have no idea what else could be causing this.
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Feb 1, 2016 21:12
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I think problems with the belts (like if the tension is off) will sound more like whirring. And yeah if your timing was off then you'd pretty much be knocking constantly, not on and off.
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Feb 1, 2016 21:19
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Partial Octopus posted:So about 1.5k miles after changing my belt I noticed that every 5 minutes or so my engine will chirp and bog down for like a fraction of a second. Could the timing be off due to the belt breaking in or is this unrelated? Mine does this too. But it stops if I disable the heat/AC. It also has new (well, less than 5k miles) timing belt so I'd love to hear any possible fixes to this as well.
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Feb 1, 2016 21:38
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Bearings that are toast on the accessories? Water pump, alternator, PS, or AC pulleys?
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Feb 1, 2016 21:41
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MattD1zzl3 posted:It's worse than that, he's lost like 30 feet away from the course on the other side of a cone "wall" or two. He's fully backwards on my track, nothing to do with spacing. See that cone far away on the center-right? Thats where he is supposed to be. I didnt even notice him until the video, i'm eyes left for the next cone.  You need a better autocross group because that's just awful. Not the guy in the wrong place - lord knows I've been there and done that - but for ever implying that there's such a thing as "too many red flags".
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Feb 1, 2016 21:47
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Great Beer posted:Mine does this too. But it stops if I disable the heat/AC. It also has new (well, less than 5k miles) timing belt so I'd love to hear any possible fixes to this as well. Just went for a drive with the heat/ac off. It stops on mine as well.
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Feb 1, 2016 22:04
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Come to florida in august and then we will decide who got the short end of the weather stick. Counterpoint: if I was in Florida in August I'd be in my Miata (with Star Specs!)  Checkmate atheists!Also my Summers are 90+ with high humidity, so I have to deal with that on one end and lovely Winters on the other. But yeah, I miss my Miata now.  Partial Octopus posted:So about 1.5k miles after changing my belt I noticed that every 5 minutes or so my engine will chirp and bog down for like a fraction of a second. Could the timing be off due to the belt breaking in or is this unrelated? My Miatas have always bogged down with the A/C on (not so much the heater) but without much if any chirping. It sounds like you're experiencing the expected additional load when the compressor activates, but the chirping is the only unusual thing.
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Feb 1, 2016 22:58
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It was 65 today in Boston and the roads were dry so no salt was getting kicked up so I took the NC out of hibernation. The Fiesta ST is fun as my cold weather car but the Miata is just so drat entertaining to drive. It will probably be another month and a half until there's another Miata day. Took my kid to daycare in her first ride in the miata today too. She smiled the whole time.
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Feb 2, 2016 00:00
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Having a couple issues with my megasquirt tune that I'm a bit out of my depth on. For reference this is in a MSM with FM full intake, RX-8 injectors, and MS3. The megasquirt was installed and tuned by a local dyno shop. Haven't driven the car much since getting it back due to the following issues. This is my first experience with tuning I'm sure there dumb questions in here. One, it seems like the coolant temp sensor isn't setup right. When it's cold out, the coolant temp reads about 20-30 degrees F warmer than my intake temp sensor and the ambient temp, even if it's been sitting for a couple days. Biggest difference is when it's cold—near or below freezing. It's made it so I need to bring a laptop and adjust cranking pulse widths if the overnight temp has changed too much. Doesn't seem to affect anything once the car is running. Is there a good way to check how the calibration is set? DIYautotune has values for the stock sensor, but I'm not sure where to see the current calibration settings. And if I do put in new calibration settings, what all is it going to gently caress with? I assume starting and warmup mostly since higher temperatures look accurate. Second issue I'm having is a lean spike when accelerating slowly with constant, partial throttle. The tuner was convinced it's an acceleration enrichment issue, but it's happening even if the tpsdot is 0. I'll be at 10% or so throttle and as the RPMS climb to 1900-2300 the AFR will got to 18, and then back down to normal. It's lean enough that I actually lose power. I drove around and ran VEAL in this area for a while and now my VE tables have a big ridge along the 1800rpm line up to about 120kpa. After adding all that fuel the lean spike is less bad, still more lean than the AFR target, but I'm also starting to run rich around the spike. Is there some reason why the car would need a bunch of extra fuel in that area at that throttle level? At what point do I need to start worrying about fouling from adding so much fuel?
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Feb 2, 2016 00:58
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powderific posted:
Regarding the lean spike, it's probably not AE. Post your spark, VE and AFR target tables please. If it's going lean briefly it could very well be a misfire. To answer your question though, no, there's no reason why your car would need an obscene amount of fuel there.
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Feb 2, 2016 05:56
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Partial Octopus posted:Just went for a drive with the heat/ac off. It stops on mine as well. Did a little research on this today since I had nothing better to do at work. This post on miata.net suggests its either an improperly tensioned belt or the A/C compressor clutch failing. If the AC pulley is difficult to turn by hand or has a grindy feel the compressor clutch may be the culprit. Allegedly the clutch assembly can be replaced without replacing the compressor but the NB1s service manual doesn't seem to mention it and I can't find the replacement part anywhere so who knows.
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Feb 2, 2016 06:12
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| # ? May 14, 2024 22:44 |
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destructo posted:Regarding the lean spike, it's probably not AE. Post your spark, VE and AFR target tables please. If it's going lean briefly it could very well be a misfire. To answer your question though, no, there's no reason why your car would need an obscene amount of fuel there. Here they are, all as it came from the tuner before VEAL tweaks. Ignition table:  VE:  AFR target:  And this is what VEAL wanted to do after driving in the problem area a while: 
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Feb 2, 2016 17:38
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