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The only compressor I own is for my airbrush so I don't think I'd get far with that, the hvlp kits look more like it. I'm in the UK as well. Thanks for the answers..
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Jan 30, 2016 17:17
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wormil posted:How much nail gun will it run? After the kitchen remodel I decided my days of hammer swinging on bigger projects has come to an end. Most of the nails I fired with it were 8d box nails, for the plywood sheathing, and it'll happily do that for quite some time. I could finish an entire 4'x8' sheet without running out of air, and that's all I really needed. I also did some 16d box nails (framing nails) with it, and it'll do that too though it needs to stop to recharge a lot more often. You only need...I think it was 90-95 PSI? to run the nailer; bigger compressors just give you more time between waiting for the compressor to "refill" itself.
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Jan 30, 2016 17:29
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wormil posted:How much nail gun will it run? After the kitchen remodel I decided my days of hammer swinging on bigger projects has come to an end. It's a refurb and it wasn't CTC (climatic test chamber) tested like the factory new ones. The counterpart to that in the testing world is a TTC (temperature test chamber). I wouldn't worry about it unless you live in a swamp.
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Jan 30, 2016 17:46
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Helped a neighbor shovel snow and she tried to pay me. I declined and we got to talking and she mentioned her deceased husband had tools. I asked and she took me into the garage. She has offered to give me this: http://imgur.com/Ekvzd1W A Moser safe with combo. She also gave me some ancient pliers, a brace and hand drill that need some TLC.
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Jan 31, 2016 23:47
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Helped a neighbor shovel snow and she tried to pay me. I declined and we got to talking and she mentioned her deceased husband had tools. I asked and she took me into the garage. She has offered to give me this: Congrats on your new best friend. 
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Jan 31, 2016 23:55
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Helped a neighbor shovel snow and she tried to pay me. I declined and we got to talking and she mentioned her deceased husband had tools. I asked and she took me into the garage. She has offered to give me this: Random trivia: IIRC those are similar (I need to check my Tobias bible) to the ones that Richard Feynman used to crack open while working at the Manhattan project.
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Feb 1, 2016 14:25
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Does anyone know what the big differences are between these two Makita sets? CT225R XT211 The second one looks better to my eyes and is $10 less. 3 Amp-hour batteries instead of 2, a hammer driver-drill, and an (IMO) easier to transport hard-case instead of soft bag (though the bag probably makes it easier to also transport the charger and batteries?) Edit: Oh, and then there's this one which looks like the first one only white colored and $20 less? CT200RW DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 18:39
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Maybe this is already well known(about all battery powered 'hammer' drills) but my makita cordless drill, which I love, does not work as a hammer drill in the least, which is to say that no matter how great\small the bit is I couldn't get into concrete, while the actual makita hammer drill drove like butter. Just an fyi if that's a factor for you. Spindle sander chat. I'm burning through sand paper like toilet paper. The just fall apart after a few uses. Should I be spending more or is this just the way it is?
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Feb 1, 2016 20:07
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The CT225R has slightly better (bit smaller, bit lighter, bit more powerful) models of the drills/drivers.
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Feb 1, 2016 20:11
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bobua posted:Maybe this is already well known(about all battery powered 'hammer' drills) but my makita cordless drill, which I love, does not work as a hammer drill in the least, which is to say that no matter how great\small the bit is I couldn't get into concrete, while the actual makita hammer drill drove like butter. Just an fyi if that's a factor for you. I don't want to insult your knowledge since I have no idea where it lies, but I have to ask: are you sure the cordless makita driver in question is actually a hammer drill and not an impact driver? Because there's a huuuuuuuuge difference, and would readily explain your experience. 
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Feb 1, 2016 20:15
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DrBouvenstein posted:Does anyone know what the big differences are between these two Makita sets? The white tools are generally lower-quality and not as rugged. The difference between the 2 other kits are pretty minor. The hammerdrill is usable in cement, but pales in comparison to a real SDS hammer drill. Even small stones in concrete will stop it dead. However, the CT255R has a more compact drill, but the impact doesn't have the GITD ring on the nose, which is actually useful. The CT kit uses lighter tools, which can be a plus, but the small batteries are a big downside. Basically, the XT is older, heavier tools, and the CT is newer, lighter tools with minor improvements. Here's the specs for the tools themselves: CT Kit: http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=XFD10Z http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=XDT11Z XT Kit: http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=XPH01Z http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=XDT04Z You'll notice that Makita calls out the older tools with the comparisons to the newer tools. Direct competitors to one another. If it were me, I'd do the XT211. The bigger batteries are a HUGE difference. I just bought 5AH batteries to avoid swapping so much. Toss the hard case, and get a good-sized bag or a big hard case. I use the duffel that came with my 4-piece kit if I'm carrying a bunch of tools, or a big Pelican case if I need weatherproof/rugged storage. The hard cases are pretty bad, there's barely enough room for the tools with batteries installed, and the charger usually. Maybe that one has some additional storage in the lid, but unless you just need to carry some bits/screws, you'll want more room. If you can swing it, I'd check out the brushless models. More power, more runtime, and no downsides. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 21:29
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That white set looks nearly identical to the drill and driver I have from Makita in 12V.
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Feb 1, 2016 21:59
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Seconding brushless--you get much more battery life and tool longevity. Also nthing makita--I had no idea just how awesome cordless tools could be until I picked up a set. For instance, this cordless shop light is by far and away one of my favorite tools. You never know just how much you need instant portable daylight until you have it. Regarding the hammer drill, did you set it to the hammer function? In addition to setting the chuck to hammer, there's a button on top that I was completely oblivious to for the longest time. Otherwise, yeah, any hammer drill pales in comparison to a proper sds hammer drill, corded or cordless. It's just a completely different design and bit (grooves in the shank allow it to move up and down). The Makita one works fine for quikrete and brick though, at least in my experience.
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Feb 2, 2016 01:04
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Odd question that maybe doesn't have an answer but in my wheeling and dealing with used tools I've been seeing a lot of drill bits with mutilated shanks. Where someone has taken a grinder and mutilated the shank so the bit will no longer center in a chuck. These bits are coming from various sources so it isn't just a fluke or some weirdness from a single place. Why would someone do that? The bits look fine, they don't appear to be burnt and one was a hole saw.
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Feb 2, 2016 05:20
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Got a picture? They may be grinding them to fit in a Weldon shank holder, which has a setscrew that comes in the side and grips a flat in the shank. Why anyone would do that for a drillbit is beyond me, though.
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Feb 2, 2016 05:49
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Or for use with hole saws, which have a set screwdriver as well. I've also seen plenty of home attempts at three sided anti spin shanks, with dreadful results.
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Feb 2, 2016 06:48
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I'll see if I have any left, but I believe all the mangled ones were thrown into a box and sold by the pound. At first I thought maybe for a set screw, but they were too beat up. Then I thought someone was trying to make a 1/2" shank fit into a 1/4 or 3/8 chuck, but some of them were 1/4 and 3/8 shank. So I have no idea. Other theories were maybe they were bent, or overheated, and someone made sure they couldn't be reused, but they looked fine. If you search on ebay for drill bits by the pound, you'll sometimes be able to see damaged shanks. One was a nice Millers Falls hole saw shank that someone ground into a lopsided hexagon-like shape that wobbled terribly. Shame.
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Feb 2, 2016 09:54
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OSU_Matthew posted:Seconding brushless--you get much more battery life and tool longevity. Also nthing makita--I had no idea just how awesome cordless tools could be until I picked up a set. I've considered them, but these are just for home use, and will easily go days, maybe even a couple weeks, without needing to be used. Although it's also the middle of winter, so it's not like I'm going to be doing any projects around the house, and that will change come summer. I dunno...I know in the grand scheme of things, another $50 to upgrade to brushless isn't much, so maybe I will. Is this the current go-to for Makita brushless? And only 2.0Ah batteries, another $50 to get the kit with 4.0Ah batteries., and I also saw a kit with 3.0Ah batteries for $289. Granted, I've only looked at HD so far, but that's because I've got $100 in HD gift cards waiting to get used...I've got $75 in Lowe's GC, though it looks like Lowe's doesn't carry Makita, but I'm not 100% attached to them, but they seem like a good balance of quality and price.
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Feb 2, 2016 15:44
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wormil posted:At first I thought maybe for a set screw, If you have a crappy chuck, as most drills do, and drill into metal, you can spin the bit in the chuck and raise a burr (or three). Maybe it was an attempt to "clean them up."
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Feb 2, 2016 21:46
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Bad Munki posted:I don't want to insult your knowledge since I have no idea where it lies, but I have to ask: are you sure the cordless makita driver in question is actually a hammer drill and not an impact driver? Because there's a huuuuuuuuge difference, and would readily explain your experience. No worries. I have the impact driver in addition to the drill, which has 3 settings, one being a picture of a hammer, so I assume it's a hammer function.
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Feb 2, 2016 21:55
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bobua posted:No worries. I have the impact driver in addition to the drill, which has 3 settings, one being a picture of a hammer, so I assume it's a hammer function. One is a drill that vibrates, the other is a pneumatic hammer that can rotate to auger crap out of the hole it's hammering. I have a 30 euro cheapo rotary hammer and it runs circles around the most expensive hammer drill money can buy. My drill has a hammer setting, which is useless for anything harder than a red clay brick. It sort of works for putting up shelves in the shed, but it barely touches the concrete my house is made of.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:44
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I drilled five 1/2" by 5" holes in my cement parking pad with a 12v Milwaukee hammer drill. I'm surprised I didn't wreck the thing—parts were too hot to touch at points.
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Feb 3, 2016 22:33
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What device do I need that'll tell me how many watts an outlet can handle? I have a couple of outlets in my kitchen that are the "-| |" style ones that are supposed to indicate they are the 20A outlets, but how do I know for sure that I can plug in a 2000w appliance - a heat stick, in my case - and not have bad results? Is there a tool that I can insert into the outlet and determine what load it can handle safely?
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Feb 4, 2016 21:53
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wattershed posted:What device do I need that'll tell me how many watts an outlet can handle? Find the breaker for the outlet and make sure it's 20A.
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Feb 4, 2016 22:01
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DrBouvenstein posted:Find the breaker for the outlet and make sure it's 20A. ...and that'll be clearly labeled? I'm a bit worried our contractor wouldn't have done that. It's been a few years and only now have I found myself needing an outlet that has to provide 20A. If it's not labeled, is there a no-brainer way to tell if it's what I need?
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Feb 4, 2016 22:07
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wattershed posted:...and that'll be clearly labeled? I'm a bit worried our contractor wouldn't have done that. It's been a few years and only now have I found myself needing an outlet that has to provide 20A. If it's not labeled, is there a no-brainer way to tell if it's what I need? The amperage of the breaker will be written on it. For example, the numbers on the switches in this picture ('15's and '20's): 
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Feb 4, 2016 22:15
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wattershed posted:...and that'll be clearly labeled? I'm a bit worried our contractor wouldn't have done that. It's been a few years and only now have I found myself needing an outlet that has to provide 20A. If it's not labeled, is there a no-brainer way to tell if it's what I need? If your breakers are relatively recent (last 20 years at least), they'll always be labeled with their amperage rating. Now if the paint has worn off... E,fb - that image is a good example.
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Feb 4, 2016 22:15
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wattershed posted:...and that'll be clearly labeled? I'm a bit worried our contractor wouldn't have done that. It's been a few years and only now have I found myself needing an outlet that has to provide 20A. If it's not labeled, is there a no-brainer way to tell if it's what I need? Plug it in and run it. If it goes over the rated breaker, it'll throw it.
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Feb 4, 2016 22:24
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Mr. Mambold posted:Plug it in and run it. If it goes over the rated breaker, it'll throw it. Unless it's a stab-lok! 
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Feb 5, 2016 00:04
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Contractor might have put a bigger breaker on cable not of sufficient size, check the gauge of the wire.
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Feb 5, 2016 00:09
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Mr. Mambold posted:Plug it in and run it. If it goes over the rated breaker, it'll throw it. It will throw it after a while not instantly.
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Feb 5, 2016 00:10
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Thank you everyone! I'll check this all when I get home. It's all beer-related so it's very important.
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Feb 5, 2016 00:27
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deimos posted:It will throw it after a while not instantly. Actually it will throw it instantly after a while. 
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Feb 5, 2016 01:13
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Karia posted:Got a picture? They may be grinding them to fit in a Weldon shank holder, which has a setscrew that comes in the side and grips a flat in the shank. Why anyone would do that for a drillbit is beyond me, though. This is the only picture I could find. This is only one, the rest were regular drill bits.
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Feb 5, 2016 06:06
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That looks like a broach. Is the hex a standard wrench size?
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Feb 5, 2016 14:48
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oxbrain posted:That looks like a broach. Is the hex a standard wrench size? It's not standard anything. Someone took an angle grinder to it and ruined the shank. The facets are irregular and it wobbles like crazy if you chuck it in a drill. The only other explanation I can think of is someone got the bits stuck and grinding seemed like the answer. Or they tried grinding them down to fit a smaller chuck but the bits came from different sources. 
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Feb 5, 2016 18:21
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Zhentar posted:All the cool kids buy the Porter-cable pancake. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Can confirm, I built my workshop with this thing. I will not be one of the cool kids sadly, happened on a Bostitch combo deal for $98 to my door and decided it was too good to pass up. I actually missed an $88 deal on the same 2 days earlier because I hesitated and someone snagged it while I was scratching my head. When it came up at $98 (97.78) I didn't hesitate. The downside is I got my carts and horses hitched the wrong way around and bought that Shop Fox brad gun a few days earlier, which now I don't need since the Bostitch comes with one.
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Feb 6, 2016 21:03
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DrBouvenstein posted:Does anyone know what the big differences are between these two Makita sets? If you haven't bought already, there's a one-day sale: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1...31893/206498074 XT211+Bit set for $149.
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Feb 8, 2016 17:52
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I've finally sold the wife on a router so that I can finish some basic cabinetry we need done. What should I be looking for, in a basic table & router to do really simple rounding of dimensional wood and to mill in a channel for a cap, in a package that can stow on a shelf. I don't need a big fixed table, and I'm on a budget so I won't be getting a Freud or whatever's expensive. Is there an rpm range I should be looking at? Minimum Hp? I've just used my father in law's router in the past so I don't know a lot about them.
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Feb 9, 2016 07:16
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For lack of a better place to post this, I figure here is as good as any spot. My neighbor is tying to get rid of this old York Safe. She has a combo, and it looks like it has seen some years. It literally weighs a ton as far as I can tell give or take a few hundred pounds. I am not sure if it is either worth something to someone, or worthless and I said I would try to help her out in getting it out of her hair. Does anyone know if this thing is scrap, valuable, or somewhere in between? http://imgur.com/a/6Z9K8
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Feb 9, 2016 22:41
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