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Chocobo posted:
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Feb 11, 2016 05:36
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Beet Wagon posted:Holy poo poo this page got dark. Yeah, the stimpire abyss has leaked a bit. Star Citizen jokes are running few and far between because the satire is real now. Dark indeed.
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Feb 11, 2016 05:37
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I recommend not Googling wesha. I accidentally got another Goon to do that when I asked if they'd ever heard of wesha.
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Feb 11, 2016 05:41
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EightAce do you think Chris/Sandi/Ortwin etc. have figured out who you are at this point? I ask this assuming you don't directly work directly under CIG and therefore can't be immediately poo poo binned.
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Feb 11, 2016 05:42
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 Beet Wagons is NOT REAL  Evil_Greven posted:Y'know, one of the things I've always wanted - since TIE Fighter, at least - was a multiplayer arcade space sim. Go play Elite Dangerous with the frog goons. If I ever finish all the tutorials I might. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3740324 starkebn posted:I actually like this vengeful murderous garbage woman owns agreed
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Feb 11, 2016 05:43
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Mirificus posted:I recommend not Googling wesha. I accidentally got another Goon to do that when I asked if they'd ever heard of wesha. I tried. nothing comes up. a few SC posts, profile and thats about it.
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Feb 11, 2016 05:46
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Mirificus posted:Search your feelings... Lime Tonics posted:It is a real thing. Decrepus posted:Imagine 4 inches on the side of your face. Someone kill me
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Feb 11, 2016 05:49
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Nation posted:Someone kill me Dont kink shame, this is your new fetish.
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Feb 11, 2016 05:52
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I would love to spend 250 on a mask that makes me look like an electrical socket
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Feb 11, 2016 05:53
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"It was broken for a time but now appears to be fixed." Lolololololwut. Why does he even bother anymore.
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Feb 11, 2016 06:06
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Lime Tonics posted:One thing I have learned from star citizen is not to search for images or anything for that matter, attached to their said user names. Why not? (Like telling a Goon "Don't look at this!" will EVER work.)
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Feb 11, 2016 06:10
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alphabettitouretti posted:The new Coen movie Hail, Caesar is set during this period of big studio productions. The kids were at their mother's place and it was the weekend so I may have been somewhat stoned. I shall try again.
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Feb 11, 2016 06:11
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The only RPG worthy of the Stimpire is F.A.T.A.L.
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Feb 11, 2016 06:11
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anal circumference triples every second
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Feb 11, 2016 06:16
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Haskell9 posted:anal circumference triples every second But enough about playing Star Citizen
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Feb 11, 2016 06:20
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D_Smart posted:I hate* it when I'm right. Roberts choice words from the article : may not be able to. It may also vary by manufacturer. In short it is still being designed. it’s a balance issue which is being worked on Yes. Longer term we will generate will be implemented farther down the road Waiting for everything to be properly polished It will be rolled out, hopefully, in 2.3 Someday you will have a game ! I swear ! Just a few more millions !
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Feb 11, 2016 06:22
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WHAT IN GOD'S NAME HAPPENED TO THIS THREAD? I go away to take a shower, I come back, prop myself up in bed with an obscene amount of pillows and tissues and NyQuil, and . . . gently caress y'all; have a cardigan pattern. IRISH CARDIGAN PATTERN (AKA SIX OUNCE CARDIGAN [so named because I made hidden interior pockets large enough to hold my six-ounce flask]) Terrible photo:  Skill Level: Experienced Materials: Needles: #7 straight needles #8 straight needles #8 circular needles #8 double pointed needles Yarn: 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) skeins (quantity depends on size and may vary depending on how you size the hood) Lion Brand Wool-Ease Forest Green Heather (or shade of green of your choice) Other Materials: cable needle two place markers at least four stitch holders row counter nine one-inch Celtic knot buttons Gauge: 4.8 stitches per inch 6 rows per inch Stitch Explanation: K—knit P—purl st(s)—stitch(es) inc—increase sl—slip psso—pass slipped stitch over ssk—Sl two sts, one at a time, as if to K. Slide the left needle into the front loop of both sts and K them together. K2tog—knit two together RS—right side WS—wrong side Irish moss stitch—K1P1 for 2 rows, P1K1 for 2 rows. Repeat these 4 rows for Irish moss stitch. Size: Extra small, small, medium, large, extra large, extra extra large. Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning. Finished chest: 34 (37, 40, 43, 47) in. Finished length: 22 (22 ½, 23, 23, 23 ½) in. Notes: The photos are, of course, terrible. The cardigan is fairly loose-fitting so it will fit over heavy, long-sleeved garments. If you want a closer fit, simply knit a smaller size or adjust your needle size accordingly. I included instructions for a generously-sized hood because I often wear my hair up in a clip, and I also wear glasses, meaning hoods often aren't roomy enough for my liking. That said, the regular-sized hood is still fairly roomy, so I recommend against making the generously-sized version if you don't need it for your hair.  I included instructions for a drawstring for the hoodie; it is of course optional. I chose to make a cardigan with buttons because I detest zippers; you may certainly omit the buttonholes and attach a zipper instead if you wish. I made angled inset pockets because I find that angled pockets work more naturally with the way my hands slide into pockets, and inset pockets wouldn't interfere with the cable pattern. The interior pockets are just basic patch pockets. You may, of course, make regular patch pockets for the outside, make straight slant pockets, or omit the pockets altogether. PATTERN: Back: With smaller needles, cast on 78 (86, 94, 102, 122, 138) sts. Work in K1P1 rib for about 1½ in. (about 9 rows). Switch to larger needles and Irish moss stitch. Work till piece measures 16 in., ending with a WS row. Shape armholes: Cast off 6 (7, 8, 10, 15, 18) sts at beg of next 2 rows—66 (72, 78, 82, 92, 102) sts. Sizes extra large and extra extra large only: Dec 1 st at each end of next 6 (8) rows—80 (86) sts. All sizes: Dec 1 st each end of next 7 rows—52 (58, 64, 68, 66, 72) sts. Continue even till armholes measure 7 3/4 (8, 8½, 9, 10, 10½,) in., ending with a WS row. Shape shoulders: Cast off 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts at beginning of next two rows, then 5 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8) sts at beginning of next two rows. Move remaining 34 (34, 36, 36, 38, 38) sts on a st holder. Left Front: With smaller needles, cast on 48 (52, 56, 60, 72, 80) sts. Working in K1P1 ribbing, work till piece measures 1½" from beginning, ending with a WS row. Size large only: Next row (RS): Work 11 sts. Inc 1 st in next st. Work 13 sts. Inc 1 st in next st. Work 12 sts. Work even to end of row—62 sts. Next row (WS): Work even. All sizes: Switch to larger needles. Switch the first 22 (26, 30, 36, 46, 54) sts in K1P1 rib to Irish moss st as on the back. Place marker. Work Row 1 of Celtic Knot pattern over next 20 sts. Place marker. Work last 6 sts in established K1P1 rib. This is the chart:  This is the legend to the chart.  Continue working in established Irish moss st, Celtic Knot pattern, and K1P1 rib. If you do not wish to add angled inset pockets, skip till the end of the pocket segment. Angled inset pocket: The photo below the instructions shows the completed pocket. Simply put, you work the front of the pocket first, set it aside, work the back of the pocket, and then join the two together. There is some trickery with stitch holders involved, but remembering that you're just making two sides of a pocket should help keep it simple. Work till piece measures about 2.5 in. or desired length (where you want the bottom of the pocket to be), ending on a WS row. (Make a note of which row in the pattern it is so you can make the pocket in the same place on the right front.) Work across first 12 (14, 17, 19, 25, 28) sts and place those sts on holder. In established pattern, decrease one st on pocket edge every third row 10 times. You should have 0 (2, 3, 7, 11, 16) sts left to work before the marker noting the beginning of the cable pattern—26 (28, 29, 33, 37, 42) sts total on your left needle. This creates the angled front of the pocket. Place these sts on holder. Move 12 (14, 17, 19, 25, 28) sts from first st holder back to needle. Cast on 30 (32, 33, 37, 41, 46) sts to make up the width of the pocket lining. Work in Irish moss st about 32 rows or until long enough to rejoin the second st holder. This creates the interior of the pocket itself. Rejoin by working the lining sts together with the pocket facing sts off the second st holder. This means working one lining st together with one st off the holder, with either K2tog or P2tog depending on how the pocket facing sts lie. Work the 6 sts for the buttonband still on the holder—48 (52, 56, 62, 72, 80) sts.  Continuing in established Irish moss st, Celtic Knot chart, and ribbed edging, work till piece measures 16 in. from beginning, ending with a WS row. Shape armhole: Cast off 6 (7, 8, 10, 15, 18) sts at armhole edge of next row—42 (45, 50, 52, 57, 62) sts. Work 1 WS row. Sizes extra large and extra extra large only: Dec 1 st at armhole edge of next 6 (8) rows—51 (54) sts. All sizes: Dec 1 st at armhole edge every other rokw 7 times—35 (38, 43, 45, 44, 47) sts. Continue in pattern until armhole measures 7 3/4 (8, 8½, 9, 10, 10½,) in., ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder: Cast off 5 (6, 7, 8, 7, 9) sts at armhole edge of next row. Work 1 WS row. Cast off 4 (6, 7, 8, 7, 8) sts at armhole edge of next row—26 (26, 29, 29, 30, 30) sts. Move remaining sts to holder. Along the button band, mark where you want to place your buttons. Right Front: With smaller needles, cast on 48 (52, 56, 60, 72, 80) sts. Working in K1P1 ribbing, work till piece measures 1½" from beginning, ending with a WS row. Place your first buttonhole in the middle of this ribbing. Note: To correspond with the button band on the left front, the right front includes the buttonhole band. Note where you placed the markers on the left front for the button band. As you work the right front, when you reach the corresponding places in the buttonhole band, decrease 2 sts in the middle of the buttonhole band, and then cast on 2 sts over the hole on the next row. I had nine buttons and placed the first buttonhole in the middle of the ribbing at the bottom, and I placed the remaining buttonholes at every Row 9 and Row 25 of the pattern. Size large only: Next row (RS): Work 11 sts. Inc 1 st in next st. Work 13 sts. Inc 1 st in next st. Work 12 sts. Work even to end of row—62 sts. Next row (WS): Work even. All sizes: Switch to larger needles. Switch the first 22 (26, 30, 36, 46, 54) sts in K1P1 rib to Irish moss st as on the back. Place marker. Work Row 1 of Right Front Celtic Knot pattern over next 20 sts. Place marker. Work last 6 sts in established K1P1 rib. This is the chart:  This is the legend to the chart. Continue working in established Irish moss st, Celtic Knot pattern, and K1P1 rib. Don't forget to work your buttonholes. If you do not wish to add angled inset pockets, skip till the end of the pocket segment. Angled inset pocket: This is just like the pocket on the left front but mirror imaged. Again, just remember you're making the front and back of a pocket, joining the two together, and then continuing with the rest of cardigan. Work till piece measures about 2.5 in. or desired length (where you want the bottom of the pocket to be), ending on a WS row. Work to last 12 (14, 17, 19, 25, 28) sts and place those sts on holder. In established pattern, decrease one st on pocket edge every third row 10 times. You should have 0 (2, 3, 7, 11, 16) sts right to work before the marker noting the beginning of the cable pattern—26 (28, 29, 33, 37, 42) sts total on your right needle. Place sts on holder. Move 12 (14, 17, 19, 25, 28) sts from first st holder back to needle. Cast on 30 (32, 33, 37, 41, 46) sts to make up the width of the pocket lining. Work in Irish moss st about 32 rows or until long enough to rejoin the second st holder. Rejoin by working the lining sts together with the pocket facing sts off the second st holder. This means working one lining st together with one st off the holder, with either K2tog or P2tog depending on how the pocket facing sts lie. Work the 6 sts for the buttonband still on the holder—48 (52, 56, 62, 72, 80) sts. Continuing in established Irish moss st, Celtic Knot chart, and ribbed edging, work till piece measures 16 in. from beginning, ending with a WS row. Shape armhole: Cast off 6 (7, 8, 10, 15, 18) sts at armhole edge of next row—42 (45, 50, 52, 57, 62) sts. Work 1 RS row. Sizes extra large and extra extra large only: Dec 1 st at armhole edge of next 6 (8) rows—51 (54) sts. All sizes: Dec 1 st at armhole edge every other row 7 times—35 (38, 43, 45, 44, 47) sts. Continue in pattern until armhole measures 7 3/4 (8, 8½, 9, 10, 10½,) in., ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder: Cast off 5 (6, 7, 8, 7, 9) sts at armhole edge of next row. Work 1 WS row. Cast off 4 (6, 7, 8, 7, 8) sts at armhole edge of next row—26 (26, 29, 29, 30, 30) sts. Move remaining sts to holder. Sleeves: With smaller needles, cast on 42 (42, 48, 52, 62, 70) sts. Work in K1P1 rib 1½ in. Switch to larger needles and Irish moss stitch. Inc 1 st each end every 7 (7, 6, 5, 4, 4) rows 16 (19, 20, 22, 26, 30) times—74 (80, 88, 96, 114, 130) sts. Cast off. Hood: I posted a close up of the completed hood below the instructions; it shows the detail of where the shoulder and hood join. Sew shoulder seams. If you want to make a drawstring, you will also have to make a drawstring pocket. To do this, simply cast on eight sts at the beginning and end of the hood adjacent to the six sts forming the button and buttonhole bands. Row 1: With RS of work facing and larger needles, work in pattern across 26 (26, 29, 29, 30, 30) sts from right front st holder. Place marker on needle. Pick up and work 34 (34, 36, 36, 38, 38) from back st holder. Work in pattern across 26 (26, 29, 29, 30, 30) sts from left front st holder—86 (86, 94, 94, 98, 98) sts. Note: If necessary to make the Irish moss stitch pattern work, you may add or omit an increase when you join the front and back together. I had to rip out and redo it several times before I got it right. Row 2: Work even. Row 3: Work in pattern to marker. Inc 1. Work 34 (34, 36, 36, 38, 38) sts. Inc 1. Work in pattern to end of row. Normal-sized hood: Repeat last 2 rows 10 (10, 6, 6, 4, 4) times more—108 sts. Cont even in pattern until hood measures 12 in., ending with a WS row. Generously-sized hood: Repeat last 2 rows 25 (25, 21, 21, 17, 17) times more—138 sts. Cont even in pattern until hood measures 14 in., ending with a WS row. Shape top: Row 1: Work in pattern across 51 sts. Sl1, K1, psso. Pm. K2tog. Work in pattern to end of row. Row 2: Work even. Row 3: Work in pattern to 2 sts before marker. Sl1, K1, psso. Sm. K2tog. Work in pattern to end of row. Repeat rows 2 and 3 7 times more, then row 2 once—88 sts. Fold cast off edge of hood in half and sew top seam. Finish drawstring pocket: Fold drawstring pocket in half. Sew seam, taking care not to sew the ends shut. You should have a nice roomy drawstring pocket with a nice neat folded edge facing out. The only bit which might look untidy is the empty end where the drawstring will go, but no one will notice once it's threaded through and prettily tied.  Drawstring: A picture of the drawstring in its drawstring pocket is below the directions. With double pointed needles, cast on 3 sts. Work in I-cord until drawstring measures 36 inches or desired length. Cast off. Use a long wire, such as a wire coathanger, to draw the drawstring through the drawstring pocket in the hood. Tie an overhand knot in each end.  Interior pockets: With smaller needles, cast on 26 sts. Work in K1P1 rib 1 in. Switch to larger needles and Irish moss st. Work till piece measures 6 in. Cast off. Finishing: Sew in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams. Sew pocket seams. Attach buttons. Sew in inner pockets in left and right fronts. Angled inset pocket finishing: With smaller needles, pick up and knit 32 sts along pocket edge; work in K1P1 rib 1 in. Cast off. Block; weave in loose ends. fuzzknot fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 06:28
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sew what?
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Feb 11, 2016 06:34
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Khanstant posted:sew what? I've spared the thread from knitting puns so far. Don't make me use them. 
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Feb 11, 2016 06:35
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I've seen the future of Star Citizen and its name is Something Awful.
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Feb 11, 2016 06:36
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BigglesSWE posted:I've seen the future of Star Citizen and its name is Something Awful. I think that's the present, but in all lower case.
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Feb 11, 2016 06:38
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They read out fuzzknot posts over loudspeaker in the stimpire
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Feb 11, 2016 06:42
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I tried that cardigan recipe but it didn't taste so good
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Feb 11, 2016 06:44
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Fuzz knot I uh. Bwuh. I just. Ok. Hmmm. I gotcha. I think. My sister knits. Or wraps yarn around a ring thing wth pegs. Made me a hat!
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Feb 11, 2016 07:08
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D_Smart posted:It wasn't. Look again.
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Feb 11, 2016 07:09
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In the stimpire sewing puns double every second.
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Feb 11, 2016 07:24
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Like a total goon, I've started a bit of a fight on Swedish site FZ. Newsarticle about SC and the "split" due on Sunday. I voiced my concerns about the quality of SC at its current state and someone tells me "it's not meant to be enjoyable at present!" #itsanalphaargument
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Feb 11, 2016 07:25
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Gonna be the comfiest Dark Knight that Star Citizen ever saw.fuzzknot posted:I've spared the thread from knitting puns so far. Don't make me use them. Dark Knit
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Feb 11, 2016 07:25
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fuzzknot posted:gently caress y'all; have a cardigan pattern.
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Feb 11, 2016 07:27
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So when people talk about how the Crobbler always meant for SQ42 to be the primary focus of the Kickstarter and it's perfectly normal for that to be the focus, they can't possible believe that, right? I mean the thing everybody paid for is called "Star Citizen" which is also the name of the multiplayer game that no one is working on. Also lol at open development. Every time I watch one of these guys talk about what they're working on, I hear, "Well, I can't talk about that, because spoilers." The Crobbler says this is open game development. "I'm working on the game" isn't really a newsflash, bro. Or I guess it kind of is, in the case of this game.
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Feb 11, 2016 07:31
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Star Citizen has the best carebears.  https://forums.robertsspaceindustries.com/discussion/comment/6351375/#Comment_6351375   https://forums.robertsspaceindustries.com/discussion/comment/6351380/#Comment_6351380
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Feb 11, 2016 07:47
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Mendrian posted:So when people talk about how the Crobbler always meant for SQ42 to be the primary focus of the Kickstarter and it's perfectly normal for that to be the focus, they can't possible believe that, right? I mean the thing everybody paid for is called "Star Citizen" which is also the name of the multiplayer game that no one is working on. The true pleasure of this thread is the slow random degeneration of chris roberts's name. chris roberts -> croberts -> crobber -> crobbler -> crobo -> crebis -> etc.
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Feb 11, 2016 07:52
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We have always been developing Squadron 42. Donating is peace. Freedom is subscription. Ignorance is devotion.
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Feb 11, 2016 07:52
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Lime Tonics posted:One thing I have learned from star citizen is not to search for images or anything for that matter, attached to their said user names. looking at the bodies of those people.. i dont think a single cosplayer there is a woman. those are ALL men wearing that stuff...
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Feb 11, 2016 07:55
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can someone post a classic b'tak effort post with that retarded formatting?
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Feb 11, 2016 08:15
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Gilganixon posted:
 Holy poo poo this is the best thing ever
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Feb 11, 2016 08:18
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I especially like the air tube connected to colon It's the Stimpire CPAP
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Feb 11, 2016 08:19
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aleksendr posted:Nicely done. I like the "last stage Slanesh cultist" vibe but i'm getting a little worried about the whole Stimpire thing. I'm starting to fell we are actually developing and improving on some poor internet madman torture porn. Even for comedy purpose its a bit unsettling. Just you wait 'til #34 kicks in
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Feb 11, 2016 08:21
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a space game without pvp sounds like tyhe most boring thing. what do these people even want from a game that they couldt get by watching windows starfield for 6 hours a day?
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Feb 11, 2016 08:23
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fuzzknot posted:WHAT IN GOD'S NAME HAPPENED TO THIS THREAD? Make beanies, auction them off, and donate the money to a charity that would drive the Citizens insane. That'd be a pretty funny thing to do since they outright refuse to support charities or some dumb poo poo each time it's brought up. One of the CCP devs knitted a few with various EVE pirate faction logos on it, like the one below, and CCP auctioned it off for PLEX (in-game GTC) during the PLEX For Good charity drive they did. Each PLEX was worth 1 billion ISK in-game, which is ~$15 to $20 and CCP matched each one for IRL donation to the Icelandic Red Cross. If I remember correctly, the auction reached over $1k USD and went to the Typhoon Haiyan relief effort. 
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Feb 11, 2016 08:23
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