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mekilljoydammit posted:(I have scaled 13Bs at 250, supposedly the Renesis is 275 dressed and the F20C is 325 in similar condition)  Oh well that makes it easy to rule them out for a stupid project I was thinking of. I fully expect to see LSx RX8's to start popping up at track days pretty soon. Pretty good chassis from what I've heard then throw in a cheap, reliable engine and have some fun.
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Feb 11, 2016 13:42
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NitroSpazzz posted:poo poo for some reason I thought those things were a lot lighter than that Well, there's a lot of cast iron. If you have rear end wiping money, the racing beat aluminum side plates drop about 40 pounds off the engine in total. Still, 250-275 pounds isn't bad. The 250 pound one I scaled was complete from pulleys to clutch (racing clutch and flywheel but whatever) minus the carburetor but including oil. Given that one was a peripheral port motor, 300+ at the flywheel is possible. the spyder posted:
  I honestly quite like my dad's RX-8, though I can see the argument that at its stock curb weight the Renesis may not be the best engine for it. In something lighter though, I really don't see much wrong with the Renesis.
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Feb 11, 2016 14:28
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the spyder posted:What the hell happened in this thread? We got all excited by the 20B and there were no adults to calm us down.
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Feb 11, 2016 15:18
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I asked a question about an FB and we got sidetracked a little. Sorry Mr the spyder.
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Feb 11, 2016 15:19
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Raluek posted:Don't all 1UZs come in front of an automatic? There are manual transmission adapters. DOHC is quite bigger.  mekilljoydammit posted:It's too bad it's hard from an emissions standpoint to swap an earlier 13B into the RX-8; every other aspect should be more or less cake, but because it's an OBD2 chassis, doing it as a street car is problematic. I can't say too much, but I have a friend who is developing a universal ECU that will fix this issue. FlapYoJacks fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 15:52
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I like my mom's RX8. It's not supposed to be a balls out perfect GT Sports car like the FD was. IMHO I believe it was more harkening back to the concept of having "regular cars" like the 70s RX-3/Cosmo/etc being powered by a rotary. The Renesis is a result of Mazda trying to hit EPA standards/possibly be powered by hydrogen (lolz).
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Feb 11, 2016 16:36
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On the subject of V8 RX8's... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172093269740
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Feb 11, 2016 18:47
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:On the subject of V8 RX8's... Hahaha, dumping your headache on someone else is the best plan.
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Feb 11, 2016 19:48
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I was mostly posting because of:Cakefool posted:Would the 1UZ physically fit? Because none of us knew. And now we know! I wouldn't buy this - abandoned projects like this would be a nightmare. The last 10% of pieces could run into hundreds or thousands of pounds. Much better to buy a complete donor car and know that you have everything you will need other than what needs fabricating. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 20:01
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mekilljoydammit posted:Well, there's a lot of cast iron. If you have rear end wiping money, the racing beat aluminum side plates drop about 40 pounds off the engine in total. Still, 250-275 pounds isn't bad. The 250 pound one I scaled was complete from pulleys to clutch (racing clutch and flywheel but whatever) minus the carburetor but including oil. Given that one was a peripheral port motor, 300+ at the flywheel is possible. Don't get me wrong, I really like the chassis- but Mazda did no favors to the rotary engines reputation with the Renisis. The first gen 04-05 engines really caused most the damage, as bad ECU flashes @ the docs to satisfy US emissions resulted in carbon-locked motors. Almost every 8 from that era has a reman or rebuilt engine, oh and the "upgraded starter" which "solved" low compression hot starts. When you did get a Reman (after fighting with the dealer for three months), you had no idea if it would last 1k or 30k. The quality was laughable. Pinched coolant seals, oil control rings, tolerances (side seal, apex seal, etc) out of spec. Damaged side plates and rotor housings. I watched Rob tear down dozens of new reman motors and maybe 20% were what he considered a good runable engine. Most of these issues were resolved in 07-11 with what seemed to be both a factory and reman supply chain overhaul. Even then, the lengths i have seen people have to go to just to get any form of warranty work leaves little to be desired. I really hope if Mazda ever brings back another rotary, they will have also spent the time to resolve some of these other issues. It still pisses me off to this day that a good friend of mine bought a 09 and at 19k lost the coolant seals. There's literally no reason for a failure that early, except manufacture defect. However, if I ever own a Rx-8 it will be a R3 as even his experience is an oddity in the 09+ models. The don't seem to suffer from the coil pack failures, bad catalytic converters, and SSV valve failures nearly as much as their older counterparts. the spyder fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 21:30
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I'll have to look at how much is on the clock, but I think my dad's is in the 70k mile range; it's an 04, I believe. Mind you, there was a whole huge clusterfuck with the electric power steering having the connectors corroded away... still original engine, though the upgraded starter is glorious and is going in every rotary I build from here on out. Finding someone doing a V8 swap on one would make me happy though; even if I'm using an older 13B I have at least one project I'd like the 6-speed for. (yes, I'm bored at work)
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Feb 11, 2016 22:16
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On the other hand, the RX-8's water pump gasket looks like a penis, and that makes me happy.
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Feb 11, 2016 22:29
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I'm finally getting over this cold. I spent an hour in the shop yesterday, but didn't really get much done. I did notice this gem on my Black 93 R1. drat it. It must have been from the toy yard years ago. I'm not sure how I'm going to fix it. A 36" prybar wouldn't touch it.  -6 AN goodness arrived for another project.  Since I won't be running an air pump, I removed the mount off the water pump housing.   And then a delivery truck showed up with my RHDJapan order.    These are RS/RZ 17" OEM replacement rear rotors. They are HUGE compared to stock and use the stock calipers/pads. They will go great with my 17" RS/RZ front calipers I bought earlier in this thread.    One of the last things I did was shim the steering rack in to it's final position. I can't wait! I also picked up a few pieces of scrap tubing from our local steel yard to make new mounts.  Today, I was awoken by the mail lady. I ordered these Monday(?) from Japan! I have been looking for a set of track wheels and needed a set of 18" wheels to test fit a extended knuckle on the Black 93 R1. I couldn't sleep Monday and found these newly listed BIN at 3:30am. They are Mazdaspeed MS01s and incredibly rare. Manufactured by Ray's for Mazda and last sold in 2004. 18x8.5 and 18x9.5. I lowballed the seller and fell asleep. In the morning I was not amused with myself, but the good news is they cost less then a set of used RPF1's. The downside is, well, obvious. I'll need to figure out if I want to powder coat them or paint them. Next up, I need to find some tires.       I've finally started cleaning the shop. There's no point in having all these tools if we can't use them. I spent a good two hours cleaning and throwing stuff away. After that was done, I started on the welding area.  I made a quick frame from some old 1x1 steel.  And plated it with some scrap aluminum sheet from our local steel yard.  I don't know why I didn't do this sooner. 10x better!   Next up for the metal shop: Finish the wall and trim the window. Move the two milling machines. Fix the lathe. And sadly, sell the DoAll bandsaw. I've decided it's just way to overkill for what we do and I would rather have the space for a finger brake/tubing roller/bender. Continuing with the cleaning theme, next up is a lumber rack.  I forgot how awesome this bandsaw is. Well, minus the run out.  Sanded and prepped.  Done!  Mounted. I'll get a picture of it loaded tomorrow.  I've decided I need to build a remnants cart for all the plywood/wood scraps. Well, that and I'm going to throw away a huge amount of small scrap I have no idea why I'm keeping. the spyder fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 09:25
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Are you concerned about introducing bump-steer now that you have moved the steering rack and therefore altered your steering geometry?
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Feb 12, 2016 11:45
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the spyder posted:I did notice this gem on my Black 93 R1. drat it. It must have been from the toy yard years ago. I'm not sure how I'm going to fix it. A 36" prybar wouldn't touch it. Couldn't you heat it up with a torch and kinda shape it back out with a hammer? With the control arm out of course......Or maybe heat it a bit and hit it with the pry bar again, but that might gently caress the bushing.
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Feb 12, 2016 16:10
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It's too bad the Rays are staggered because when a friend made the same mistake with 5x100 Subaru BBS wheels we just put the silver wheels on one side of the car and the gold wheels on the other side of the car. Since it's physically impossible to see both sides at the same time, nobody ever noticed. I say paint 'em, powdercoating seems pretty iffy with forged wheels.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:15
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I killed one of your saws at work cutting 718 Inconel samples that I'd e-beam welded. Once it hit the weld, the hardness shot up so much the saw just couldn't cope anymore. And I wasn't weighting the cutting bar down either. It cut Ti 6-4 and MP35 really nicely though Those wheels are so loving hot I don't even care about the color. Want.
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Feb 12, 2016 18:53
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Plastidip to the rescue!
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Feb 12, 2016 19:47
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Are you concerned about introducing bump-steer now that you have moved the steering rack and therefore altered your steering geometry? Yes- which is why I'm extending the mount point for the tie rod end. For now it will just be a machined adaptor. I don't trust welding cast iron, especially when it's on something as important as steering.
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Feb 12, 2016 19:51
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leica posted:Couldn't you heat it up with a torch and kinda shape it back out with a hammer? With the control arm out of course......Or maybe heat it a bit and hit it with the pry bar again, but that might gently caress the bushing. Heat would kill the bushing, but I don't really care. I just can't believe I drove the car without ever noticing this.
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Feb 12, 2016 19:52
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I'm pretty sure the spindles are cast or forged steel, not iron - at least all the other Mazda ones I've seen are, though admittedly I haven't messed with FDs.
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Feb 12, 2016 20:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's too bad the Rays are staggered because when a friend made the same mistake with 5x100 Subaru BBS wheels we just put the silver wheels on one side of the car and the gold wheels on the other side of the car. That's hilarious. Not sure I could pull it off. Sadly the bronze is anodized, not powder coating. It's apparently impossible to match. The only company that offers a paint match is in the UK and won't ship outside the UK. The white is powder coating. I'm not sure what to do yet. Here's what I've found so far, but I need to confirm it. Ray's quenches and then tempers their wheels @800F. I'm not sure why you could not re-powder coat a wheel, as most powders need 30 minutes @400F, which should not weaken the temper. Now I have found reports of people damaging other brands of wheels powder coating them, but those use a 360F tempering for 18 hours. Oh well, Plastidip for now  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0K_CRzURyVE
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Feb 12, 2016 20:24
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mekilljoydammit posted:I'm pretty sure the spindles are cast or forged steel, not iron - at least all the other Mazda ones I've seen are, though admittedly I haven't messed with FDs. You are correct, not sure why I said cast iron- meant to say cast steel. I'm still not sure I want to weld it- we'll see. I would need to pull the bearing/preheat/weld/temper.
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Feb 12, 2016 20:24
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BloodBag posted:I killed one of your saws at work cutting 718 Inconel samples that I'd e-beam welded. Once it hit the weld, the hardness shot up so much the saw just couldn't cope anymore. And I wasn't weighting the cutting bar down either. It cut Ti 6-4 and MP35 really nicely though Did the teeth just shear off the blade? Jeeze. I still need to bore/sheave the drive wheel some day. It's got a huge amount of run out, which causes blade walk. It's fine for what we do, but super annoying on anything we're going to machine.
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Feb 12, 2016 20:28
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the spyder posted:Did the teeth just shear off the blade? Jeeze. I still need to bore/sheave the drive wheel some day. It's got a huge amount of run out, which causes blade walk. It's fine for what we do, but super annoying on anything we're going to machine. No, from what they told me later, the bearings failed on the bandwheel on the motor side. I was wondering what that noise was. It always sounded like that but I just kept going since it seemed to keep working 
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Feb 12, 2016 21:18
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the spyder posted:I did notice this gem on my Black 93 R1. drat it. It must have been from the toy yard years ago. I'm not sure how I'm going to fix it. A 36" prybar wouldn't touch it. Okay I'm going to look dumb here but what's wrong?
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Feb 12, 2016 21:56
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Can you re-anodise both sets in black or something?
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Feb 12, 2016 22:35
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Cakefool posted:Okay I'm going to look dumb here but what's wrong? The control arm is now pinched in the subframe. (Hence the massive mis-alignment.) It's stuck bad enough I'm probably going to have to cut the subframe to remove it.
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Feb 13, 2016 07:18
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Can you re-anodise both sets in black or something? I'm going to talk with a buddy of mine Monday about that- he's anodized pretty much everything and anything.
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Feb 13, 2016 07:19
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Today was another shop cleaning day. I spent the afternoon making a cabinet for above the workbench. Here's yesterdays shelves loaded up.  Cabinet time! I'm making a simple three section cabinet. I'll add doors later. With the workbench behind the table saw, I have just enough room to rip a full sheet of plywood before hitting the sander.  Vertical panels ripped. I'm went with 16x32 panels and shelves to best utilize material. Material is a pre-finished 3/4" Russian Birch ply. I used 2 sheets in total, with a 16x96 left over.  I used a router to create a dado in the top piece. This was a mistake as I had to go back later and re-cut it using the spare piece.  Solution: Dado sled. I spent 20 minutes and whipped this up. It made cutting the vertical panel dados much quicker, accurate, and safer.  Well, until you stop paying attention and dado something that shouldn't be. A quick filler piece, some glue, and some pin nails fixed it. No need to scrap a panel when it's just shop cabinets.  This is the nice bit about having everything on wheels, you can just move it out of the way when you need to recut a long piece on the table saw. I can't remember why, but at some point here I stopped and made mounting brackets for my Makita track saw sleds. Pictured right of the table saw.  All ready to be glued up. I completely forgot two things. 1) There's a post on the left side I had to trim around and 2) Mounting strips.  With my brother's help, we hung it on the wall. I realized after he left I needed to raise one side and this was the best option. Haha.   10X better. I'm stoked. Next up: Clamp rack, remnants rack, and window trim. After that I'll build drawers and cabinet doors.   Tomorrow, it's engine building day- hopefully. the spyder fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Feb 13, 2016 |
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Feb 13, 2016 07:44
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Just wanna say here that Baltic birch plywood is the poo poo.
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Feb 13, 2016 10:11
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I love that the shop is "finished" but you keep doing cool tweaks to it.
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Feb 13, 2016 16:38
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I have a set of the older split rim MS01 for my mr2 mainly due to the fd having similar offsets, you wouldnt have a set of spare centre caps????? 
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Feb 14, 2016 20:36
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*Had to edit this. I gave up about 1/2 way posting it due to this killer headache. Turns out I've been fighting sinus infection. Finally got meds today. I'm 100% wiped out. Yesterday I dropped off some parts @ Robs and cleaned the 94 R2's rotors, just for fun.  During cleaning, Rob noticed the rotors were mis-matched. One is from a 89-91 S5 Turbo, the other a 93-95 REW. Now, we've had a few signs that this was rebuilt ~20k ago, but nothing that really proved it- until now. These are interchangeable as they have the same compression and weight. The 3 piece apex seals were discontinued in turbo applications around 04-05, right about when this car would have had 50-55k on it (74k currently). So everything at least matches up. I'm going to send the VIN to my buddy at a local dealer to pull records. REW Rotor  S5 Rotor  These rotors are ornaments at this point. The apex seal grooves are destroyed and I'm not sure I could get the side seals/corner seals out due to the rust.   After the rotors were cleaned, I literally chiseled the apex seals out.  The oil caps are finally ready to be sold!  I also stopped by a local dealer to pick up some parts. He was able to find me NOS caps for the MS01s wheels, $36/each from Mazda. 
the spyder fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Feb 15, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 23:23
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the spyder posted:While they came out clean, there's a few problems. On a scale of 1-10, what shape would you rate these as? I'd be uncomfortable if I saw pitting and chips like that on pistons going back into a motor. Is the shape of the rotor surface significantly less important compared to the face and skirts of a piston?
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Feb 14, 2016 23:32
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Can you guys make oil caps for piston engines in the shape of a wallet full of money?
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Feb 15, 2016 04:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Can you guys make oil caps for piston engines in the shape of a wallet full of money? 
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Feb 15, 2016 04:06
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88h88 posted:Just wanna say here that Baltic birch plywood is the poo poo. I wish this was Baltic Birch. This is cheap ($45) Russian Ply that has a super soft core and lots of voids. Good for shop furniture, but that's about it.
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Feb 15, 2016 05:27
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Rhyno posted:I love that the shop is "finished" but you keep doing cool tweaks to it. I believe I've misused the word finished. It's finished enough to starting getting caught up on projects, but it's no where near functional. I still need to wire the drat place, run air lines, and get things organized.
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Feb 15, 2016 05:29
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Would you be willing to part with an ornament? My son is a gear head and he would love one of those.
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Feb 15, 2016 06:42
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