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A MIRACLE posted:How different are traditional handlebars from clip ons? I had to sell my CB-1 in Tennessee when I moved and all the bikes I'm looking to replace it with (599, monster) have regular handlebars. Fwiw I really enjoyed the leaned over the tank / tucked in style of riding but I have no context for any other way Weren't you looking at a Concours that was a steal?
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Feb 17, 2016 19:01
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Weren't you looking at a Concours that was a steal? yes, I'm floating a lot of ideas right now. I have a three day weekend and a $5000 signing bonus check coming tomorrow. socal is my oyster or something like that
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Feb 17, 2016 19:41
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Handlebars come in pretty much every ergo you could come up with. Top triples equipped with handlebars rather than clipons are a little more versatile because of that. If you want less rise and pullback, there's usually a set of bars out there to fit that. Another benefit is that with handlebars, you can roll them forward or back in tiny increments to deal with pressure on your hands or wrists. I don't know for certain but I don't think clipons are quite as versatile in that regard. I guess the closest analogue to that would be that clipons can swivel forwards or back, so you can adjust the angle of the grips relative to each other (which you can't do with handlebars). Handlebars also provide a little more option for mounting stuff like GPSs, phones, grip heater modules, etc. I've only ever had bikes with handlebars, and only ridden a bike with clipons once that I remember so take my words with however much salt you want. I have a riding buddy who has two of the same bike as me but has an upgraded front end on one that required clipons (with a few inches of riser, not super aggressive ones) . He gets a bit of wrist pain out of that one, whereas on the bike with handlebars he doesn't. I guess the main point is that having handlebars doesn't necessarily mean you can't crouch over the tank if that's what you're into. I wouldn't choose or dismiss a bike based on that particular point.
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Feb 17, 2016 20:37
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What do you call the bars that like the EX250 or the Concours have? It's not a full across bar like a mountainbike has, but it doesn't clip directly onto the fork tube either.
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Feb 17, 2016 21:00
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captainOrbital posted:What do you call the bars that like the EX250 or the Concours have? It's not a full across bar like a mountainbike has, but it doesn't clip directly onto the fork tube either. Comfort Perfection.
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Feb 17, 2016 21:26
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What generations? I'm fairly sure early 2000s model EX250s and 500s had clipons, they just had relatively high riser. Concours appear to have a bunch of different things, but they all look like some weird hybrid setup with which I'm not familiar. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Feb 17, 2016 |
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Feb 17, 2016 21:32
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helibars? Risers? I don't know where the gently caress else clip-ons would connect to other than the fork tubes, or handlebars to the top tree...
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Feb 17, 2016 21:51
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Some cursory googling returns a bunch of very long lists and charts of idiotic made-up sounding names for various shapes of handlebars, but I think that's mostly just a cruiser/custom shop fetish, even though a couple of them are similar to what the concours has. Personally I'd call them touring bars, since that's what they're for.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:03
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A MIRACLE posted:How different are traditional handlebars from clip ons? I had to sell my CB-1 in Tennessee when I moved and all the bikes I'm looking to replace it with (599, monster) have regular handlebars. Fwiw I really enjoyed the leaned over the tank / tucked in style of riding but I have no context for any other way Clipons are sweet for the track and really hard railing, they pretty much suck for everything else, especially commuting. And you can still lay on your tank with flat bars.
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Feb 18, 2016 01:04
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What can make a bike feel like it's got a flat front tyre that isn't a flat front tyre? Cbr125 with a brand new 80/90 on the front. Head bearings are mint, wheel bearings are mint, forks are good yet it rides exactly like a bike with an under inflated front. The swingarm says 29/33. That seems kind of low to me? Is it possible that those numbers were arrived at based on the average Malay and my whopping 70kg are too much?
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Feb 18, 2016 03:25
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Sounds a lot like when I had a front tire replaced and the snot nosed kid that put it on, mounted it backwards. He got his rear end soundly chewed by the old hand shop foreman for ignoring the "direction of rotation" mark on the sidewall.
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Feb 18, 2016 04:19
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Should I bother replacing my engine coolant? It's not low and it's not slimy and it's still green and the engine doesn't overheat, but spilling a bit the other day reminded me that it exists and is a thing that can be maintained.
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Feb 18, 2016 21:24
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Sagebrush posted:Should I bother replacing my engine coolant? It's not low and it's not slimy and it's still green and the engine doesn't overheat, but spilling a bit the other day reminded me that it exists and is a thing that can be maintained. Yes, whenever it says to in the manual.
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Feb 18, 2016 21:35
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Coolant is hygroscopic, isn't it? Isn't that partially the cause of radiators rusting out when you don't do flushes often enough?
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Feb 18, 2016 21:50
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Coolant is hygroscopic, isn't it? Isn't that partially the cause of radiators rusting out when you don't do flushes often enough? Hygroscopic is the ability of something to hold water. Coolant IS water. The reason radiators "rust" is oxidation.
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Feb 18, 2016 21:52
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Sounds like something you want to follow the manufacturer recommendation on.Google posted:Coolant provides corrosion protection to engine components, freeze protection when subject to sub zero temperature, boil protection, heat transfer to the passenger compartment of vehicles, lubrication to the water pump and general chemical and oxidative stability to ensure efficient functioning of the cooling system. Engine coolant, how quaint.
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Feb 18, 2016 21:58
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Hygroscopic is the ability of something to hold water. I guess I was going under the assumption that most engine coolants are primarily ethylene glycol. So my question was more "isn't ethylene glycol hygroscopic, and if so, is the water that is held by ethylene glycol responsible for the oxidation of radiators?" Now that I've Googled a bit, I see that most coolant contains much more water than I thought. I knew you can mix water with coolant, but was always taught that it's not a sustainable thing to do and if you have to do it, it's best to flush and replace with coolant as soon as possible. I've learned something today. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Feb 18, 2016 |
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Feb 18, 2016 22:12
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Z3n posted:Carb is clogged, you need to pull and clean it. You were right. I pulled the carb and the float bowl was full of nasty green junk. Both jets were completely clogged with it too. Thanks for the tip! Runs like a top now!
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Feb 18, 2016 23:36
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builds character posted:Yes, whenever it says to in the manual. I don't know when the last time it was changed was, but it recommends replacement every 24,000 miles and I've put about 8000 miles on the bike since I got it, so it would probably be a good idea to do that now.  HenryJLittlefinger posted:I guess I was going under the assumption that most engine coolants are primarily ethylene glycol. So my question was more "isn't ethylene glycol hygroscopic, and if so, is the water that is held by ethylene glycol responsible for the oxidation of radiators?" In my bike it's supposed to be a 50-50 mixture of coolant (ethylene glycol antifreeze, with anti-corrosion additives and such) and distilled water. You aren't supposed to top up with water because it dilutes the good stuff in the coolant. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 00:07
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Do you need ethylene glycol if it never gets below freezing where you live?
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Feb 19, 2016 00:13
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You don't technically need the glycol but you do want the corrosion inhibitors. There's some stuff called "water wetter" that I think racers use (because it's hot where they are/they want the increased heat capacity of straight water/they aren't allowed to use glycol on a track where it could make a slippery spill) that has the inhibitors but no antifreeze. I'm just going to use normal green stuff, though.
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Feb 19, 2016 00:31
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Sagebrush posted:There's some stuff called "water wetter" that I think racers use (because it's hot where they are/they want the increased heat capacity of straight water/they aren't allowed to use glycol on a track where it could make a slippery spill) that has the inhibitors but no antifreeze. Pro tip: That stuff freezes. Don't ask how I know, I am terrible.
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Feb 19, 2016 02:10
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BlackMK4 posted:Pro tip: That stuff freezes. Lol doesn't it even say on the bottle "hey buddy this poo poo will freeze and crack your block" or something?
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Feb 19, 2016 02:18
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Feb 19, 2016 02:24
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I'm going to need a new pair of tires on my DRZ (150/60-17 rear 120/70-17 front) in a month or so, which one should I go with? The Pirelli Diablo Rosso II or the Battlax Hypersport S20 EVO. I have the S20 Evos right now, and don't have too many complaints. Used to run Pilot Powers but they don't make them in 150/60-17 anymore. BlackMK4 posted:Pro tip: That stuff freezes. He's suggesting it to someone who lives where it doesn't freeze. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 02:35
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http://www.evanscooling.com/products/powersports-coolant/ Waterless Coolant for: MX Bikes, Trail Bikes, Enduro Bikes, Street Bikes, Quad Bikes, ATVs, UTVs and Snowmobiles Boiling Point: Above 375°F Antifreeze Properties: Protects below -40°C This stuff is actually pretty great and they just signed on to be a sponsor at the supermoto races so I am definitely going to give them a shout out. I use(d) it in my 86 cr 250 with the magnesium waterpump.
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Feb 19, 2016 02:39
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Marxalot posted:I'm going to need a new pair of tires on my DRZ (150/60-17 rear 120/70-17 front) in a month or so, which one should I go with? You can get a 150/60-17 in pilot power 2ct
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Feb 19, 2016 03:05
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velocross posted:You can get a 150/60-17 in pilot power 2ct They might have stopped making them too. The only place I found with that size was revzilla.
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Feb 19, 2016 03:24
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Run the 160 pilot power, it fits, it's cheap, it owns and the profile is still fine even squished a bit.
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Feb 19, 2016 03:51
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Marxalot posted:He's suggesting it to someone who lives where it doesn't freeze. I live in Phoenix, Az. It froze here. 
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Feb 19, 2016 04:11
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I used to live in Phoenix, and the winter nights there were definitely colder than any nights here in San Francisco. I think I've seen a frozen puddle once, in the early morning in the "depths" of "winter." According to wikipedia the all-time record low is 27F (-3C) and on average it never gets colder than 45 degree (7C). Water is a hell of a heat sink.
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Feb 19, 2016 06:05
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Outside Dawg posted:Sounds a lot like when I had a front tire replaced and the snot nosed kid that put it on, mounted it backwards. He got his rear end soundly chewed by the old hand shop foreman for ignoring the "direction of rotation" mark on the sidewall. I read this post and giggled to myself and proceeded to try and find the problem elsewhere. Then I looked at the sidewall markings. For fucks sake.
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Feb 19, 2016 06:20
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Slavvy posted:I read this post and giggled to myself and proceeded to try and find the problem elsewhere. Then I looked at the sidewall markings. Kiwis just bound and determined to be backward.
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Feb 19, 2016 07:44
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It's an omnidirectional tyre so I guess maybe the two arrows confused him I dunno. Knew it wasn't worth the twenty bucks, the loving bike doesn't even go fast enough to need the wheels balanced so I should've just fitted them myself and called it a day but I wanted it to be super perfect.
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Feb 19, 2016 07:57
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Battery talk: been riding the old FZR 4 to 5 days a week to work. Friday before my track day I go to crank it and it dies because not enough choke. No biggie, hit the starter again and everything is dim. Roll start it, head home no issues. Double check the bike before the track and it can't even rev the motor. Found a Duracell that came pre charged at batteries plus (expensive....) and was good to go!
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Feb 19, 2016 18:33
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Next year my finances should be in shape for a new bike. I'm thinking Super Tenere. Anyone have opinions on whether it's a good bike for my purposes? I'll be commuting and using it for camping, so mostly road/highway but also dirt.
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Feb 19, 2016 19:14
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Running errands today with 40lbs of cat litter and two 9lb bags of cat food in my bags, the bike felt "better" than normal. Does this mean my suspension is setup dumb? Previous owner wasn't fat but was probably 3-4 inches taller than me so maybe I need to readjust the rear or some poo poo?
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Feb 19, 2016 22:02
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Lynza posted:Next year my finances should be in shape for a new bike. I'm thinking Super Tenere. Anyone have opinions on whether it's a good bike for my purposes? I'll be commuting and using it for camping, so mostly road/highway but also dirt. One of my bosses has one and rides from Salem, OR to Seattle all the time on it. He loves the thing. Has a ducati 1198 and days that while it's tons of fun, the Yamaha is the better bike. Much more useful and comfortable.
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Feb 19, 2016 23:45
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Does the cosmoline on a new chain eventually wear away to reveal the beautiful chain underneath or should I go after it with some lube and a rag?
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Feb 20, 2016 02:56
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So I've got the battery out of my '15 FZ-07 for the winter, a Yuasa YTZ10S. It's hooked up to a Noco Genius G1100 trickle charger. It hooks up fine, I set it to "Normal 12V" mode, and it does its thing. It'll reach an indicated 100% on the charger as the manual says it should, but never enters the pulsing green light maintenance mode. A day or so later it is flashing error LEDs that signify that the battery won't hold a charge. I'm going to bring it to work with me on Monday and hook it up to a multi. loving battery.
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Feb 20, 2016 05:36
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