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gently caress, I hope not. Been raining a lot lately but it sits outside all the time.
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Feb 12, 2016 19:24
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How much difference is there, generally, between the stated volume of a fuel tank and the amount of fuel you can really use before it's lapping at the top of the reserve pipe? Because there's what looks like about a litre hiding at the bottom of mine when I run it to empty, and probably another one and a bit, maybe two, that I theoretically could squeeze in at the top but never try to because I don't want to jam up the filler cap lock.
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Feb 12, 2016 22:27
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There are overflows at the top so any extra you put in will just be running out the side of the bike.
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Feb 12, 2016 22:33
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Pope Mobile posted:Well gently caress, bike wouldn't start this morning. Battery sounds weak, doesn't it normally spin faster than that? I defer to the thread title for the appropriate question.
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Feb 13, 2016 00:43
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Checked it a month ago and it was at 80% charge and "good" health according to the load tester. Is the original '09 with 45,000 on it though. I'm going to pull it out and charge it when I get home.
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Feb 13, 2016 01:15
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80% charge? As in 20% below 12.8 volts? That's dead as a doornail. Perhaps it's just a licked-finger-to-wind type of measurement. Those load tester type devices don't say stuff clearer than a straight voltage reading. Lead-acid batteries are wearing parts, having a '09 vintage still in operation is excellent. And they don't really wear out, they just suddenly fail. If you charge it, it will probably start the bike fine (if the battery is indeed the culprit), I suggest you ride to the battery shop and buy a new one.
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Feb 13, 2016 01:23
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I don't throw it in the tender because I ride almost every day. It never gets above 85% charge. We have a battery on the shelf for it, just isn't filled. I'm going to buy it and some plugs (time to replace anyway). Can fill and charge at home. $60 for a Yuasa gently caress yeah.
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Feb 13, 2016 01:27
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But 85% of what? Is it a reading on the charger? I think it might not be a reliable battery health indicator.
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Feb 13, 2016 01:37
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Of full charge. Which is usually 13+
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Feb 13, 2016 01:41
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Pope Mobile posted:Of full charge. Which is usually 13+ Yeah, 13 - 15% is 11.05. 11 volts resting is a broken battery. You can charge it up and get a good crank or two, but it needs replacing. Your battery has been way better than 85% when it was running, often way over 100% if you set 100% at 12 volts.
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Feb 13, 2016 01:53
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Got home, charged the old battery (only took like 10 minutes) and put it in. No start. Removed the air box. Opened the throttle: getting injection and spark, then it fired up. https://youtu.be/zD8OgJcmM0I Something with the plugs or fuel/air mixture maybe? I'm going to swap them out when I get a chance.
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Feb 13, 2016 04:06
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Gorson posted:Me too, same bike. From my research, I can't find anything that is a direct plug n play. Your best bet is probably to get some RC51 or CBR600RR pegs and grind or file them to fit. You can also use passenger pegs. Don't buy any cheap new ebay ones, they break. Are you looking for rubber-top pegs or metal? Sagebrush posted:Cool. I just bought some OEM VFR passenger pegs for $30. We'll see how much modification they need once they arrive, but if all else fails, I've got a mill and an AC TIG Just an update from a while back: I got the VFR pegs and the other day found the time to modify and install them on my Hawk GT. It's a pretty trivial bit of work to make them fit -- you just need to drill out the mounting hole to 8mm and cut about 5mm off the end of the mounting shaft. I used a hacksaw and cleaned it up with a file. Half an hour of work including the measurements and layout. No spring mechanism any more, but eh, who cares. The pegs fit fine and feel good.
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Feb 13, 2016 07:52
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Ola posted:Yeah, 13 - 15% is 11.05. 11 volts resting is a broken battery. You can charge it up and get a good crank or two, but it needs replacing. Your battery has been way better than 85% when it was running, often way over 100% if you set 100% at 12 volts. Percent charge doesn't mean percent of peak voltage, it means percentage of charge. Most conventional batteries make nominal voltage above ~50% charge and only start delivering noticeably low voltages below that:  example graph, only clear one I could find that didn't feature LiPo curves cause those look a lot different. Anyway you get the idea, it's a steady rolloff as charge runs down Now I'm fairly sure charge (as in the number of amp-hours in the battery) can't actually be measured directly, the number on the charger will almost certainly be an estimate based on the amount of energy it's pushed out or the back voltage or resistance or some poo poo, and assuming a healthy battery. Which pope's pretty clearly isn't. e/ ever present caveat that this is mostly based on a hazy recollection of high school physics, but since that's what a charge indicator on a battery tender meant to be read by the average consumer will also be based on I don't think I'm too far off this time. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 12:22 on Feb 13, 2016 |
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Feb 13, 2016 12:16
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Right! Yeah there's another way of measuring charge, not capacitance I think but something else.
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Feb 13, 2016 14:25
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Sagebrush posted:Just an update from a while back: I got the VFR pegs and the other day found the time to modify and install them on my Hawk GT. It's a pretty trivial bit of work to make them fit -- you just need to drill out the mounting hole to 8mm and cut about 5mm off the end of the mounting shaft. I used a hacksaw and cleaned it up with a file. Half an hour of work including the measurements and layout. Good to know, thanks for updating. Are they any higher or lower than the stock pegs? There's no spring now, but do they still articulate up and down?
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Feb 13, 2016 15:15
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Ola posted:Right! Yeah there's another way of measuring charge, not capacitance I think but something else.
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Feb 13, 2016 18:13
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Gorson posted:Good to know, thanks for updating. Are they any higher or lower than the stock pegs? There's no spring now, but do they still articulate up and down? They mount at the same position and angle, but they're effectively about a half-inch lower because they don't have a half-inch of rubber on top. The articulation still works fine. If you don't cut off enough of the end, they won't go down all the way, and if you cut off too much, they'll hang low. I recommend cutting on the short side and then filing to fit.  
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Feb 14, 2016 07:31
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Should you still be revmatching on a bike with a slipper clutch?
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Feb 14, 2016 18:30
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I think my Supertrapp muffler is getting louder. Would repacking it help with that? How can I tell if it needs to be repacked?
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Feb 15, 2016 01:55
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Partial Octopus posted:Should you still be revmatching on a bike with a slipper clutch? I thought a slipper clutch's job was to attenuate clutch friction in hard engine braking so as to not cause a skid? Sagebrush posted:I think my Supertrapp muffler is getting louder. Would repacking it help with that? How can I tell if it needs to be repacked? Actually surprised so many people give a poo poo - really nice to see. This video might be helpful if no goons are familiar with such a procedure.
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Feb 15, 2016 02:24
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Verge posted:I thought a slipper clutch's job was to attenuate clutch friction in hard engine braking so as to not cause a skid?
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Feb 15, 2016 02:30
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Sagebrush posted:I think my Supertrapp muffler is getting louder. Would repacking it help with that? How can I tell if it needs to be repacked? I don't think supertrapps have exhaust packing - check to see if there's something up with the restriction plates.
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Feb 15, 2016 04:24
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Partial Octopus posted:Should you still be revmatching on a bike with a slipper clutch? It can't hurt.
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Feb 15, 2016 17:45
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Deeters posted:I'm also looking at insurance stuff. The local agent who was getting me some quotes said I shouldn't bother with collision on my bike since most bikes get totaled anyway. Is this a normal suggestion? I meant to respond to this a while ago, but apparently I never hit submit on my message. D'oh. Sorry about that. To make up for it, here is a giant wall of text. A few things to consider when looking at collision: Total value of bike: Your shiny new superduke is worth repairing/replacing. Your Ninjette that is old enough to vote is not. Parts of the bike that can get damage: A fully faired sports bike or customized cruiser has a lot of plastic/carbon fiber/chrome that can be damaged in a low speed accident. If you're the type of person who will want those repaired, then collision might be worth it. A DRZ, however..... TL:DR; Totally reasonable that your agent could recommend it based on your circumstances. Note: Here is the basic definition of collision and comp coverage from Progressive. quote:Comprehensive and Collision coverages pay to repair or replace your auto if it is stolen or damaged in an accident, regardless of who is at fault. For each coverage, you select a deductible that you pay out of pocket. Your insurance company pays for the remaining damage up to the limits you select. Emphasis mine. Just remember, if you bypass purchasing collision, then you're responsible for the full value of your bike should you be in an accident that is your fault. If you hit a car, you're on the hook for fixing/replacing your bike. Collision covers this. Your agent might have some other 'total loss coverage' that excludes repairs if the carrier is a specialty/smaller one, but usually this is how collision is interpreted.
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Feb 15, 2016 20:51
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Fishvilla posted:A DRZ, however..... DRZ is exactly what I'm insuring, and that's why I was on the fence about collision. Having it or not doesn't have a huge effect on the online quote I was on. And I was mostly interested in bumping up my insurance to get theft coverage anyway. This is good info
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Feb 16, 2016 01:44
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Statistics are on your side for cheap premium with a DRZ I think. If collision is cheap I'd carry it with a reasonably-high deductible. It'd be a welcome consolation prize if you wad it up into a tree. Theft will be attached to comprehensive coverage. When I quote policies, comp is the premium most affected by deductible.
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Feb 16, 2016 01:59
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Deeters posted:DRZ is exactly what I'm insuring, and that's why I was on the fence about collision. Having it or not doesn't have a huge effect on the online quote I was on. And I was mostly interested in bumping up my insurance to get theft coverage anyway. This is good info I binned mine pretty hard. Scratched up a $20 fork guard, ~$30 (I think) headlight shroud, $80 handguard (or whatever those zetas with the flashers in them cost), and scratched some Actually Expensive OEM SM wheels. Wheels aside, you're probably going to be pretty hosed up if you manage to crash a DRZ hard enough to cause more damage than your deductible. e: Scratched one of those cheapass plastic radiator covers too. I think a new decal set would cost more than the drat plastics.
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Feb 16, 2016 05:38
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clutchpuck posted:Statistics are on your side for cheap premium with a DRZ I think. If collision is cheap I'd carry it with a reasonably-high deductible. It'd be a welcome consolation prize if you wad it up into a tree. ^^ Exactly this. Totaling your bike sucks. Totaling it without any insurance sucks more. Something something DRZ something mailbox.
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Feb 16, 2016 16:56
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So, yesterday I rode my bike (G650GS) around for 50 odd miles with no issue, I went to a place, stopped there for a bit then went home. This morning I tried to start it and the dash lit up but promptly died as soon as I tried the ignition. Wouldn't turn on again, so I figured the battery had died. I have a little battery thing you can jump stuff with and I've used it to jump this and other bikes before. I hooked that up and turned it on, the dash lights were dim and flickering. I got it started but it seemed to be just on the cusp of losing power. I left it on and removed the jump battery. It stayed running for a bit but the dash was still flickering and the RPM gauge was saying it was red lining when it obviously wasn't. Eventually I turned it off and havn't been able to get it to start since. I've got it on a tender now, while it says it's charging it and says it's at or above 80% charge any attempt to start it fails. I'm assuming the battery is hosed, but it just seems strange that it was running fine yesterday but died today. Anyway, just looking for advice before I haul it off to the shop as I know gently caress all about fixing electronics (or anything else really).
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Feb 16, 2016 20:00
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Z3n posted:I don't think supertrapps have exhaust packing - check to see if there's something up with the restriction plates. They don't. That's the point of the plates. Edit: I'm wrong. apparently there are models that have packing. Huh, who knew? http://forums.supertrapp.com/showthread.php?1585-How-To-Repack-A-SuperTrapp-Exhaust https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kmcw4qMzAGc GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 20:08
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Lexorin posted:I'm assuming the battery is hosed, but it just seems strange that it was running fine yesterday but died today. Anyway, just looking for advice before I haul it off to the shop as I know gently caress all about fixing electronics (or anything else really). Batteries can die like this. I had it happen with my Mustang. Park it acting normally, go inside and grab something I need, go back out and try to start it up: darkness. I ended up jumping it off my truck but as soon as I did something to draw power besides run the engine (like tap the brakes), the engine would FLIP THE gently caress OUT and buck against the transmission. Replaced the battery, a-ok. Meanwhile, I had like 3 Autozones test the battery. None of them could get a reading off it and blamed their equipment. Super hosed battery.
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Feb 16, 2016 20:44
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It's been on the charger for 3 hours now. Just unplugged it and started the electronics, didn't try the ignition. Everything was flickering and just started fading out. I'm going to assume the battery is dead and can no longer charge.
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Feb 16, 2016 21:22
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It sounds like your battery is dead but it also sounds like you should check your grounds and especially the battery terminals for continuity.
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Feb 16, 2016 23:27
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Why assume? Use the thread approved tool and measure it?
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Feb 17, 2016 00:20
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Supradog posted:Why assume? Use the thread approved tool and measure it? Yeah, I've been turbo-lazy and hadn't bought one yet. We just haven't really had too many electrical problems with our bikes until now, so ... it's on me. Multimeter is on the way! Now I just need to find a smaller torque wrench. They all seem to be 3 feet long.
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Feb 17, 2016 01:20
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http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html Pittsburgh. The name you trust.
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Feb 17, 2016 01:42
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How different are traditional handlebars from clip ons? I had to sell my CB-1 in Tennessee when I moved and all the bikes I'm looking to replace it with (599, monster) have regular handlebars. Fwiw I really enjoyed the leaned over the tank / tucked in style of riding but I have no context for any other way
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Feb 17, 2016 07:27
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A MIRACLE posted:How different are traditional handlebars from clip ons? I had to sell my CB-1 in Tennessee when I moved and all the bikes I'm looking to replace it with (599, monster) have regular handlebars. Fwiw I really enjoyed the leaned over the tank / tucked in style of riding but I have no context for any other way They're like power steering couch potato mode.
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Feb 17, 2016 08:27
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So, my battery issue may well be that I've never really had to maintain a lead/acid battery in my life and being told they need water was news to me. All of the cells were below the min line and some were well below. I refilled them but it didn't make much difference. I'll pick up a new battery tonight and we'll see how that works out. Next thing they'll tell me is I need to put "air" in my "tires"...
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Feb 17, 2016 17:43
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Not all lead acid batteries do need maintenance. If you've only ever had a car or newer bikes you'd be forgiven for thinking they're all sealed units.
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Feb 17, 2016 18:58
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