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And next time pay attention to the loving road
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Nov 27, 2015 15:10
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CharlesM posted:No, traction control wasn't standard until 2007. Only GT models had it before then. ABS was not standard on 2.0 models (maybe not even an option). Don't know when stability control was available / an option, 2007 or after according to IIHS, don't know which models. 2010s and newer with the tech package. And they first came out as a 2004 model, so statistically it was probably a model from the nine model years they've had traction control and not from the three years they didn't. And that comment was mainly directed at the poster's apparent attitude of "my cheap Chryco knockoff of an obsolete Mercedes platform had these awesome safety features that the other guy's Jap-crap econobox surely didn't have", when frankly, it's hard to find any car models built past the turn of the millennium that don't offer a bunch of electronic nannies. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Nov 27, 2015 18:48
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HotCanadianChick posted:Any Mazda3 is new enough to have traction control and ABS too, and depending on options had ESC too. blk posted:Wait, what? Are you saying all 2004 E500 wagons were lemon lawed? Either way, it was probably with good reason. go3 posted:And next time pay attention to the loving road But, seriously, I spent less time looking at the cellphone right before the wreck than I would have checking my mirrors and speed. This stoppage came out of loving nowhere, but if I hadn't looked at my cellphone app, I'd maybe had the extra second to totally avoid the crash and just been yelling about how much grass got in my undercarriage. HotCanadianChick posted:2010s and newer with the tech package. I figured the original post was way too long to point out my real issue. I bought the 2005 E320 Sedan. It has a problem showing up regarding the SRS system, and the light that indicates if someone is in the front passenger seat always stays lit, no matter if there's an adult in the seat or not. I think that either the weight detection mesh has gotten a short or a break, or the wires going to it have shorted or broken. That's what I think is setting off the error. I think if a Benz dealer plugged in with their STAR system, the passenger seat weight detection system would show an abnormally high or low resistance...probably abnormally high since the 'disabled passenger-side airbag' light stays on all the time. I don't have enough info about how the weight detection piece works, but I'd guess that the resistance goes down when someone sits in that seat. If there's an open circuit in the detector or a break in the wires going to it, and the detector lowered resistance in proportion to weight, that would explain why the passenger-side airbag is always off and if the resistance is out of range, that would fire off the displayed error on the display. The dealer I bought the car from has purchased another airbag module and it arrived at the dealership today. I expect an email or call soon for me to drive it in and have their mechanic swap it for the one inside the car right now. Maybe it'll fix the SRS issue, and the warning on my display AND the SRS light will go away! That'd be excellent and exactly what I'm hoping will happen. What I believe will happen is this: It doesn't fix the always-on disabled passenger airbag light, doesn't clear the SRS error in the display, and doesn't turn off the SRS light. How hard do I fight if they put up resistance? In the contract, they've agreed to handle the displayed SRS fault. From my research on the different MB forums, I believe it's a weight detection device or wiring issue in the passenger seat. They may try to say that they promised to only replace the airbag module, not remove the SRS error. What should I do if the module doesn't fix the issue? Take it to a MB dealership and have them run and print the codes regarding the passenger seat/passenger airbag and use that to shove it in their face? Is there something else I can do myself? Eat the cost and get the dealership to fix the issue? I have the address of the MB dealership that kept the car up. Should I head to see them and get them to scan the system? I like this car and I don't want to give it back. What options do I have at this point?
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Nov 28, 2015 07:52
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GPF posted:They may try to say that they promised to only replace the airbag module, not remove the SRS error. What is the exact wording in your contract? If it said "make the SRS light go off" then they just have to disconnect the LED. If it said "replace the airbag" then they replace the airbag. If it said "repair the fault" then make them do it right. Just take it back and get something that's not encumbered with some hosed up safety systems.
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Nov 28, 2015 20:34
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As someone who owned a 2004 e class for over 3 years as a daily driver, you can anticipate that this is only the beginning of your electrical issues.
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Nov 28, 2015 21:27
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 Got the Winter shoes on, sporting a set of 245/45/R18 Pirelli Sottozero 3's. Less Concours d'elegance more autobahn warrior.
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Dec 27, 2015 19:13
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I got a rental C300 last week. One of the most annoying things about its COMAND system (do they still call it that?) was that the letter dial onscreen spun in the opposite direction of the physical dial. You spin clockwise, the letters move CCW. I never got used to it over maybe a dozen address entries. Is there an option in the menus that would have reversed that? It felt so unintuitive.
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Dec 29, 2015 08:33
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kimbo305 posted:I got a rental C300 last week. One of the most annoying things about its COMAND system (do they still call it that?) was that the letter dial onscreen spun in the opposite direction of the physical dial. You spin clockwise, the letters move CCW. I never got used to it over maybe a dozen address entries. Is there an option in the menus that would have reversed that? It felt so unintuitive. I guess it would sort of make sense if you think of the dial as moving the cursor/selector rather than the on screen dial?
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Dec 31, 2015 14:36
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Throatwarbler posted:I guess it would sort of make sense if you think of the dial as moving the cursor/selector rather than the on screen dial? That model would work if the selector moved around, but it stays at 9 o'clock. The compounding annoyance is that letters would activate/inactivate as you completed a word and the nav would filter down possible choices, so the "speed" at which the dial turns changes with every letter. The input allowed handwriting letters on top of the touchpad, but only when you were sat still. Which seems faintly ridiculous given how both methods of input are distracting. I got so fed up with it that it made me wonder if BMW had some sort of patent on mirrored physical-to-virtual dial rotation.
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Dec 31, 2015 22:46
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I have had an interesting new sound start to come from my W124. When the heat is on, especially on the eco setting and on automatic, there is a strange "popcorn" sound coming from under the passenger dash where the heater core is from time to time. Not a liquidy sound, not a bubble sound, not a physical switching or clicking sound either. I can't really figure it out. Thoughts?
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Dec 31, 2015 22:50
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I have had an interesting new sound start to come from my W124. When the heat is on, especially on the eco setting and on automatic, there is a strange "popcorn" sound coming from under the passenger dash where the heater core is from time to time. Not a liquidy sound, not a bubble sound, not a physical switching or clicking sound either. I can't really figure it out. Thoughts? I have a theory https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6PsS-zMgzw
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Dec 31, 2015 23:24
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I have had an interesting new sound start to come from my W124. When the heat is on, especially on the eco setting and on automatic, there is a strange "popcorn" sound coming from under the passenger dash where the heater core is from time to time. Not a liquidy sound, not a bubble sound, not a physical switching or clicking sound either. I can't really figure it out. Thoughts? Exact same thing happened to me. Do some googling on how to test your climate control unit (CCU). It's easy to do with nothing more then a voltmeter. More then likely it is on it's way out, as the solders on the circuit board decay over time and eventually your climate control will stop working. It's extremely easy to replace, just remove the wood panel and a few screws and it slides out buttons and all. There's a few different versions of the unit depending on your exact model, but I picked up a good used one on eBay two years ago and have had no problems since.
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Jan 1, 2016 00:01
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Cool, thanks!
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Jan 1, 2016 00:12
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I'm going to go look at a 2006 e55 tonight from a MB dealership. The price is a bit high, but unless they have meticulous records or an inspection I plan on talking them down. Other than the air suspension and normal used car stuff, anything to look out for before I negotiate for an independent inspection?
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Feb 8, 2016 22:37
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Try out every feature of the car, every feature. In particular try out stuff like the rear sunshade and automatically opening and closing trunk that uses wiring which runs through the trunk and is particularly prone to breaking (Chrysler used too short of wiring in the trunk and it has too much stress put on it). You will no doubt find some weird random stuff that's broken. Unless it's a really good deal (like $15k or less) make sure to drive other stuff with big V8 engines too. The E55 is a lot of fun but it's also really heavy and can get a little expensive to maintain. There are a few 'oh poo poo!' things that can break in somewhat catastrophic and very expensive ways too, like the crazy braking system and I've heard the supercharger can give some people some trouble. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Feb 8, 2016 |
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Feb 8, 2016 23:01
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mod sassinator posted:Try out every feature of the car, every feature. In particular try out stuff like the rear sunshade and automatically opening and closing trunk that uses wiring which runs through the trunk and is particularly prone to breaking (Chrysler used too short of wiring in the trunk and it has too much stress put on it). You will no doubt find some weird random stuff that's broken. Yeah these cars are still depreciating a lot and anything over $15K is probably too much given the age. Even if the big stuff has been done there is always, always more to fix on a car that complicated. As for other stuff with big V8 engines I can't really think of any competitors in that price point. The E55 weighs I believe 4100lb and has 469hp and 516 lb-ft, Charger SRTs and such are going to be heavier and less powerful. The closest thing I have driven was an E60 M5 (V10) which honestly felt pretty comparable, less torque but revs to the moon. An M5 will probably be more expensive to buy but hold its value better, just make sure to get a manual. An E55 really isn't a bad car considering the money but I would not DD one again given the maintenance costs involved with putting that many miles on the car. I kind of wish I had made it work to keep mine and get my truck but instead I'm just going to save and get something really impractical versus an E55 which is a compromise car.
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Feb 9, 2016 00:58
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Yeah I would definitely check out a E90-E93 M3. The V8 is a little bit down on power but the car weighs less than the E55 (about 3700 vs 4100 lbs) and very likely has a much better suspension setup.
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Feb 9, 2016 01:08
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mod sassinator posted:Yeah I would definitely check out a E90-E93 M3. The V8 is a little bit down on power but the car weighs less than the E55 (about 3700 vs 4100 lbs) and very likely has a much better suspension setup. Are those in the same price range yet, though?
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Feb 9, 2016 01:27
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kimbo305 posted:Are those in the same price range yet, though? Not from what I've seen, really rough ones are like low 20's at best. The M3 is much smaller too. It no doubt drives better than an E55 but the AMG is more about high power cruising anyway.
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Feb 9, 2016 03:05
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Even if it's not in the same price range to buy used, that should give you some idea what to expect with maintenance, etc. for an E55. They're not cheap because they're a bargain muscle car. They're cheap because lots of things can break and some of them are very costly to repair. If I didn't feel good dropping mid to high 20's on a used E90-ish M3 I definitely wouldn't buy a $15k E55.
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Feb 9, 2016 05:42
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mod sassinator posted:Even if it's not in the same price range to buy used, that should give you some idea what to expect with maintenance, etc. for an E55. They're not cheap because they're a bargain muscle car. They're cheap because lots of things can break and some of them are very costly to repair. If I didn't feel good dropping mid to high 20's on a used E90-ish M3 I definitely wouldn't buy a $15k E55. Wisdom. I have to agree with you that the M would be a better buy at this point because despite the fact that the purchase price is higher and maintenance surely wouldn't be cheap it would be more fun to drive on public roads, comes with a manual and will hold its value better than virtually any Mercedes-AMG. That $10k price difference pays for a hell of a lot of deferred maintenance on the Benz but at the end of the day it's still going to be a $10k car in a few years no matter how much you put into it.
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Feb 9, 2016 13:38
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Thank you guys! Very much appreciated advice. I didn't get to check the car out, probably won't be free until Saturday. Here's the car in case anyone was wondering: http://www.lylepearsonused.com/used/Mercedes-Benz/2006-Mercedes-Benz-E-Class-3d5883fe0a0e0a170a2315f858d7a57e.htm Sounds like it's about 2 grand too high. I'll still check it out, but good info to be prepared with. Thanks for the BMW suggestions too, I never really considered them. It seems like this town is full of 328 sedans so I hadn't come across an M. For those with experience, how practical is the back seat? I have two kids (12 and 9) so one of them will have to get in the back. The 9 year old is relatively short, but I think the 12 year old will be too big for the back seat. The only frame of real reference I have is we stumbled across a 1 series the other day and the back seat ruled it out. Any other suggestions on cars to look for? Are the 335's still a good buy if I was willing to sacrifice the v8 with a turbo 6? You guys nailed it on the head; I want something that is fun to drive daily, not just balls to the walls in a straight line. Price point is fine up to around $30k.
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Feb 9, 2016 14:36
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savesthedayrocks posted:Thank you guys! Very much appreciated advice. That's not a bad example, looks like it has most options other than the panoramic roof which adds weight and complexity. If you need a back seat the E55 is going to have more room than an M3 or other 3-series. I took my E55 on a few road trips with some 200lb 6' men in the back with relatively little complaining. The fun part is it's got so much power and torque than even with 1,000lb of human inside its still loving quick. For the E55 the maintenance is more important than the miles. At this age you can expect to start having issues with the suspension including potentially the air suspension parts, valve cover gaskets, maybe the rear main seal. The brakes have probably been done but be aware the car uses an electro hydraulic system that is more complicated than just a regular brake job. Good tires are about $1200 installed and will last 20-25,000 miles unless you roast them. If you got the car for $14,000 drove it for 2 years and put $5,000 into it you could prob sell it for $9,000-&10,000 at the end. Still a lot of car for the money I would at least test drive it and see how you like the handling.
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Feb 9, 2016 16:14
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For some context, I recently bought a 06 E55 with 92k for $14.5k. A bit of deferred maintenance is needed (brakes & motor mounts) but a couple of big things were done including the airmatic suspension. Got the fuel tank replacement under MB extended warranty as well. If the SBC ever goes kaput, then I'm boned. Thankfully, the E55 doesn't use those 2 piece rotors like the E63 does.
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Feb 10, 2016 03:08
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EL Bombastico posted:For some context, I recently bought a 06 E55 with 92k for $14.5k. A bit of deferred maintenance is needed (brakes & motor mounts) but a couple of big things were done including the airmatic suspension. Got the fuel tank replacement under MB extended warranty as well. I had the gas tank done on mine at the dealership as part of the extended warranty as well. What drove me to sell mine was continued issues with the Airmatic, after about $1200 it still wasn't working right so I said gently caress it. In my experience that's the biggest problem area because diagnosing it is a pain in the rear end and the parts are expensive.of course there were other annoyances with a 12 year old $90,000 car like the head unit starting to go out etc that made keeping it look less appealing. The SBC hydraulic reservoir did go out on mine, unfortunately it wasn't covered under warranty at the dealership so it was an $1100 repair. It probably could have been done for 30% less at an independent shop, but the dealer quoted me a great price for all kinds of deferred maintenance. It was like $2,400 for control arms and suspension bushings, rear main seal (like 9 hours labor per the book), valve cover gaskets and the SBC reservoir. After about 3 days at the shop I got a call saying that they forgot to include labor in the quote and it should have been $5,100. I only paid the original amount though so I can say at least one person has gotten a good deal at a Mercedes dealership. Oh yeah gently caress the 63 rotors I don't think I would go OEM to replace those given the cost. Out of curiosity one time I called to get a quote on front brakes for a 2008 CLK63 Black and it was like $5,000
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Feb 10, 2016 13:26
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Mercedes really has the market cornered on "haha gently caress you poors" in terms of maintenance/repair costs out of all the other auto makers, minus Ferrari, Bugatti, and the other few exotics.
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Feb 11, 2016 03:48
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Mercedes really has the market cornered on "haha gently caress you poors" in terms of maintenance/repair costs out of all the other auto makers, minus Ferrari, Bugatti, and the other few exotics. I don't think they are too different from BMW and the other Germans. Volkswagen I would say is actually the worst because the cars themselves are relatively cheap but then when poo poo starts breaking you have Mercedes-like repair costs, which is quite sneaky. Mercedes certainly does have the market cornered on "haha gently caress you original purchaser enjoy your catastrophic depreciation," but apparently that's not enough so they have to get $ out of the secondary market too with the repairs & maintenance Also we tend to talk a lot about the E55 and other AMG's which started at about $80,000 and went up from there, had all of 2004's best new technology in them, and are really comparable to a 7-series or something as far as features go. Not sure if "expected annual maintenance as a percentage of original MSRP" is a metric published anywhere but if so I'm willing to bet it's roughly in line
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Feb 11, 2016 13:38
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savesthedayrocks posted:I have two kids (12 and 9) so one of them will have to get in the back. The back seat of an E55 > any 3 series. While you're not dealing with huge bulky car seats anymore, back seat room can't be underappreciated for hauling the family around. For what it's worth, the E55 can turn just fine and all the torque available at low RPMs makes it frankly more fun when you're also stuck in stoplight hell. TL,DR: I really liked my E55. Dislike button posted:Also we tend to talk a lot about the E55 and other AMG's which started at about $80,000 and went up from there, had all of 2004's best new technology in them, and are really comparable to a 7-series or something as far as features go. Not sure if "expected annual maintenance as a percentage of original MSRP" is a metric published anywhere but if so I'm willing to bet it's roughly in line I disagree with this. My E55 was a pretty straightforward car - it didn't have the active seat bolsters and some of the options that some cars had, but even then it was nothing like an S-class in terms of tech installed for tech's sake. I think your average Camry today has more tech than an E55. Now, the pitch: if you're really looking to spend upwards of $30k, then also consider an '09+ CTS-V sedan, and btw, they also come in manual. The early years are starting to get down to around $25k with miles (probably autos) but I suspect you could find a manual for $30k. Believe me when I say the suspension of the -V (magnetorheological dampers) is witchcraft and the car can turn very, very well, in spite of its size. Source: I have a -V now, had an E55 before that, had a '09 G8 GXP manual before that. I like my big fast sedans. Tremek fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 18:10
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Dislike button posted:I don't think they are too different from BMW and the other Germans. Volkswagen I would say is actually the worst because the cars themselves are relatively cheap but then when poo poo starts breaking you have Mercedes-like repair costs, which is quite sneaky. Mercedes certainly does have the market cornered on "haha gently caress you original purchaser enjoy your catastrophic depreciation," but apparently that's not enough so they have to get $ out of the secondary market too with the repairs & maintenance Maybe I was lucky, but I never felt my BMW had as many outrageous "gently caress you" costs. The most expensive thing I ever did between my two 5 series was the CCC that died on my iDrive and that was a purely "I dont have the ability to code" part. Granted I have never owned an M car, but a friend of mine works at the joint BMW/Mercedes dealer in town and said that Mercedes always had higher regular maintenance costs compared to BMW. But Merc suffers more from the catastrophic suspension and brake component failures while BMW has the cooling system bullshit. I think the difference is BMW has a few more enthusiasts compared to Mercedes and the components aren't as specialized (ABC, those funky brake controls, etc)
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Feb 11, 2016 19:11
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Maybe I was lucky, but I never felt my BMW had as many outrageous "gently caress you" costs. The most expensive thing I ever did between my two 5 series was the CCC that died on my iDrive and that was a purely "I dont have the ability to code" part. Hopefully Mercedes has learned their lesson from their weird brake poo poo. You are right about the enthusiasts preferring BMW's for the most part though and I think that's a huge factor in the aftermarket support, in terms of aftermarket parts availability, DIY knowledge, and even residual values. Tremek posted:The back seat of an E55 > any 3 series. While you're not dealing with huge bulky car seats anymore, back seat room can't be underappreciated for hauling the family around. For what it's worth, the E55 can turn just fine and all the torque available at low RPMs makes it frankly more fun when you're also stuck in stoplight hell. TL,DR: I really liked my E55. Definitely true about the Camry but 2003-2006 was a long time ago. Some of the things on the E55 were pretty fancy for the time like the Keyless-Go, voice control and Bluetooth integration. My E55 had the stupid active bolsters that I used twice and turned off, the only options it did not have were the Pano roof and the radar cruise control. So while it may not be as tricked out as an S-class it still has lots of poo poo to go wrong like the adaptive air suspension, hydraulic brakes, automatic trunk and other features that frankly are not found on less expensive cars. This is in comparison to say an E350 or C-class which has more traditional suspension, and I know the E-classes had the SBC but not sure about the C. For reference per Mercedes' website you can't even get Airmatic on a new E-class other than an E63.
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Feb 11, 2016 21:26
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdtDumm2LK0
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Feb 20, 2016 05:14
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Is this a typical MB owner? He's freaking out going crazy yet he still stands on the shoulder when there is a protected area in the center? Yeah.........
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Feb 20, 2016 05:47
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Okay, I need some advice. I need a new daily driver. 2008 S63 with 165k miles. I know this is a bad idea, I just need to understand what level of "bad idea" I am looking at. I dont mind dropping a few grand a year on coil packs and what not, but if this thing is going to poo poo the bed I can't handle that. Nor do I want to be towing this thing every couple of months. http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/5484508400.html 
Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Mar 10, 2016 |
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Mar 10, 2016 05:12
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Tai-Pan posted:Okay, I need some advice. I need a new daily driver. 2008 S63 with 165k miles. Be prepared to spend the cost of that car every year or two on maintenance and repairs. Anything that breaks will be hilariously expensive to repair.
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Mar 10, 2016 06:08
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Stealth Like posted:Be prepared to spend the cost of that car every year or two on maintenance and repairs. Anything that breaks will be hilariously expensive to repair. The price doesn't even bother me as much as the potential downtime.
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Mar 10, 2016 06:40
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I'd say $3-$4K per year in maintenance, including wear items, is reasonable if the car's been remotely well maintained. On one hand it's got high mileage, on the other to get there it has to have had some work done to it already I would think. Can't comment on the downtime issue though I vote yes
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Mar 10, 2016 13:37
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I'd want to know the history on the car -- the pictures show what looks to be a temp tag? Around here, that's a red flag notice of someone flipping. Not necessarily a bad thing, but something with that disaster potential, I'd want to know all of the what/where/whens. I also vote yes.
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Mar 10, 2016 13:59
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:I'd want to know the history on the car -- the pictures show what looks to be a temp tag? Around here, that's a red flag notice of someone flipping. Not necessarily a bad thing, but something with that disaster potential, I'd want to know all of the what/where/whens. A huge red flag for me is people who are obviously flipping cars, or just bought it to try it for a couple of months and then comment on how well cared for the car is and how good condition it's in without at least telling the background story. That being said, you could have an S63 so I vote yes.
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Mar 10, 2016 15:25
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Dislike button posted:I'd say $3-$4K per year in maintenance, including wear items, is reasonable if the car's been remotely well maintained. On one hand it's got high mileage, on the other to get there it has to have had some work done to it already I would think. The owner says he has service records, but he is definitely ESL, so who know what that actually means. I plan to go look this weekend.
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Mar 11, 2016 04:18
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Tai-Pan posted:The owner says he has service records, but he is definitely ESL, so who know what that actually means. Do a craigslist search on the guy. He's not an owner, he's a dealer posting in the "by owner" section. Pure bullshit scam stuff. http://austin.craigslist.org/search/cto?query=maddy
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Mar 11, 2016 13:24
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