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Getting into the trash and counter surfing and self-reinforcing behaviors so they're pretty drat hard to stop once the dog starts, just have your roommate get a trash can with a lid or keep it in a cabinet or something.
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Feb 21, 2016 03:19
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my girlfriend has a pet pug she inherited from her grandma and I hate him he poops everywhere like he will just walk up and look you right in the eye and poop or just like poop as he is walking i hate him and wanthim to die but he is 11 years old so he hopefully will soon
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Feb 22, 2016 04:07
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Is there a dog sport thread somewhere? I started rally with my puppy and would like to talk to those more experienced in it. I'm completely new as well.
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Feb 25, 2016 16:45
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cheese eats mouse posted:Is there a dog sport thread somewhere? I started rally with my puppy and would like to talk to those more experienced in it. I'm completely new as well. There was, but it's probably fallen into the archives and my half-hearted search turned up nothing. I've competed in Rally, as have a few other people who post in this thread. What's up?
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Feb 25, 2016 17:34
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I could've sworn Fraction started a new dog sports thread sometime within the last year, but there are maybe only a half dozen of us who compete in sports so it's not too active. Edit: here it is http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3726490 Edit edit: I just signed up my dog for rally classes too and I also have no idea what I'm doing 
Problem! fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Feb 25, 2016 |
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Feb 25, 2016 19:25
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Sudden Loud Noise posted:This may be a bit too large scale for the training thread, but it may fit. A happy update: Our dog's separation anxiety has gotten a bit better, he's no longer stressed when we leave, no more panting at the door. Now he just go and lays down by the door and falls asleep after about 20 minutes. However, he still won't take care of himself or explore the house while we're gone. If we're gone for 3-4 hours, he still won't go and get water, or go and get his favorite treats, even if they are 5-6 feet away. He's clearly thirsty because the moment we get back, after we say hi, he'll run to his water and drink for a couple minutes straight. A happier training question: Is there a trick to teaching an older dog how to play? He's gets along great with a neighbor shih-tzu but doesn't know how to play. The other dog tries rolling on it's back, hopping up and down, chasing him, everything. But he just runs back to us, not sure what to do. 
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Feb 26, 2016 01:00
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Sudden Loud Noise posted:A happier training question: Some dogs just aren't into playing and are more people dogs than dog dogs. Nothing wrong with that. He may eventually come out of his shell a little more and start playing but if he doesn't it's not really a big deal. One of my dogs is like that, he could not care less if another dog comes up to him desperately wanting to play, he'd rather hang out with people.
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Feb 26, 2016 01:33
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a life less posted:There was, but it's probably fallen into the archives and my half-hearted search turned up nothing. I've competed in Rally, as have a few other people who post in this thread. What's up? Some good habits to get into and others to avoid, especially as a handler. General tips. Expectations during judging. General atmosphere at testing. Also what is a show and go? I have a weekly class but figured I could get some tips,
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Feb 26, 2016 05:25
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cheese eats mouse posted:Some good habits to get into and others to avoid, especially as a handler. General tips. Expectations during judging. General atmosphere at testing. Also what is a show and go? The number one thing judges like to see during rally competitions is a happy team. It's designed to be a gateway sport of sorts, so there's more emphasis put on having fun than being perfect. As far as general training tips go, having a tidy pivot and a nice heel is probably most important. There are two (or more) venues in which you can compete -- AKC or Cynosport (or CKC // CARO if you're in Canada). In AKC, rally is considered an offshoot of their obedience competitions, so a lot of the same rules apply -- kind of a stodgy atmosphere, no food in ring. Cynosport was created solely for rally (I think? Cynosport bought it from another group a while back...) and it's a bit more newbie-friendly and relaxed, and you CAN bring food into the ring and feed at the end of stationary exercises. I think it tends to have an easier entry point, but as you go up in levels the courses get more complicated (and fun) and you're judged more stringently. I myself have only competed in CKC rally and completed the excellent level. Your course instructor will be able to advise you about the general rules of judging as far as it comes to double cues, redoing stations, etc. You can talk to your dog throughout and won't be dinged for double cues unless your dog falls out of position, so I always chatted up a storm to my dog. During competitions, walk the course a bunch. Count the stations -- it's easy to accidentally miss one. (Ask me how I know...) Don't rush. Find your natural rhythm and move with it. Some classes set up a metronome and ask you to move to its beat to keep you at a steady pace. You can ask the judge to explain a station if you're unfamiliar with it at a competition and they're happy to clarify if needed. The first level of rally is done on leash, and the more advanced levels are done off leash. Make sure to keep your leash in a nice relaxed "J" the whole time -- tight leashes will cost you points. A show and go is, I think, a practice match. They may have rings set up to look like a competition, and may have a mock judge in the ring to grade you or give you and your dog a taste of what a real comp is like. Rally is meant to be fun. Some people take it a little more seriously than others, but try not to be too influenced by them.
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Feb 26, 2016 15:42
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Awesome! I'm looking forward to more then. I figured this would be a good intro for both me and him since we can't do agility for a while. I've been working on his heel. I apparently treat too far behind me and also need to bring him closer to me. Also down is taking him way longer than anything else I've taught him. He's still a baby though so he'll get it. At what point do you like to add a cue to heel? When it's shaped better? I guess I can do a few different heel cues that depend on how tight I want him to me.
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Feb 26, 2016 19:19
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cheese eats mouse posted:Awesome! I'm looking forward to more then. I figured this would be a good intro for both me and him since we can't do agility for a while. Here's a video to get you started on heeling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Nz1a_lYbxs I'd be adding a verbal cue when he's actively seeking out heel position (standing with shoulder next to your leg, nice and straight).
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Feb 26, 2016 19:36
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Hi there, I wanted to post a little about our situation and hopefully get some advice on how we can begin training our new rescue puppy, an 11 month old pit bull mix. While the fosters he was living with said he was a great dog, he's been a total terror the first 12 hours we've had him now. The fosters, who had had him for a few weeks, brought him over this afternoon, and left him with my fiancee and I. We played with him on a tug rope and tried a brief walk, and generally ran into a lot of problems right away. * He peed in the house about 20 minutes after they left. He was drinking a lot of water, and we had already had him outside while they were still at our house, but he peed again inside shortly after they left. He continued drinking a lot of water, and as long as we were letting him out every 30 or 45 minutes he would pee outside, but he did pee inside a second time. Just stopped tugging on the toy, went behind the couch, started peeing on the rug. The fosters said he is housebroken and hasn't done anything like that inside the house in the time they had him. * Counter-surfing. It's pretty hard not to shout "no" at a lot of his behaviors, but I don't know how to stop him doing this on the short term. Again, the fosters say he did not jump up on counters in their home. * Some aggression. He still start to growl if he is biting on his new leash and treating it as a tug toy and you are trying to get him to let go. (I guess instead redirecting his attention to an appropriate chewing toy is the thing to do, but if we're outside, I don't have the rope with me.) My fiancee's former roommate had a pit bull and she said when that dog was first brought home, he was nowhere near this problematic. I'm unsure of our dog's history in his first 7-8 months, but he was essentially dropped off at the shelter, had a parvovirus infection shortly after (so the original owners hadn't vaccinated him, most likely), was hospitalized for a week, quarantined for 30 days, and then fostered for a few weeks. The fosters used a prong collar, and from the 20 minutes I spent with the guy as they brought the dog over, he was tugging on that thing every few seconds to try and control the dog (getting him to walk at his side, stopping him from jumping up, etc.). They told us that we would need coconut oil previously and that they would explain, and when they brought him, they showed us the huge region on the front of his neck where the fur is completely rubbed off to bare skin. From what we can tell, they leave the prong collar on him all the time (slipping a bandana underneath it to "ease" it a bit), and as I said from the little bit of handling I saw they were using it almost constantly. We took the collar off and put a harness on him to give his neck some room to breathe. His barking also seemed very hoarse, and I'm not sure if it was just because he was barking earlier in the day or on their car ride over, or if it's a more permanent issue because of the use of the prong collar. He continued to drink a lot of water, we took him outside for a couple of short walks using P- turning and walking the other direction when he would pull on the leash, and he did fairly well. Short attention span, but he responded well to the P- turning, and I could even jog slowly with him at my side for 20-30 feet before he would start to pull again. I left the house for a few hours and my fiancee played with him more, crated him with his bone/antler that the fosters gave us, and he took a 1h30m nap. He was extremely rambunctious with me when I returned to the house, extremely excited and hard to get calm. Another odd thing, he is neutered, but when I play the tug rope with him, he will suddenly drop it occasionally and try to mount my leg and start humping. We are trying to use "off" as a command to get him to stop this, stop jumping, stop counter-surfing. We "loaded" our clicker with a series of 30-40 click and treats, and successfully used it a bunch of repetitions of sitting. He can also go down fairly well, but not stay there for long. The fosters said they have had some minor success teaching him "place", we haven't tried it much yet. It's hard to judge anything based on the first day, but we have 30 days in which we could potentially return him to the shelter and forfeit half of the adoption fee, and this has been really emotionally stressful for my fiancee and I. Does the rubbed-down-to-the-skin appearance of his throat indicate he might have some bad behaviors from too much P+ training? Most importantly, in order to control him with R+ techniques, I feel like he would need 10 treats a minute for hours on end in order to keep his attention and teach him something, and I don't want him to vomit, or get sick, or start packing on a lot of fat. At least for this first day, he wants to follow us around everywhere and getting him to do things seems like we would need a ton of treats to keep training him with R+ technique. Sorry for rambling, just scattered thoughts from our first day with a new dog. Any help on how we can approach the first week of working with him or advice on some of these behaviors would be helpful.
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Feb 28, 2016 05:33
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Rogue posted:Hi there, I wanted to post a little about our situation and hopefully get some advice on how we can begin training our new rescue puppy, an 11 month old pit bull mix. While the fosters he was living with said he was a great dog, he's been a total terror the first 12 hours we've had him now. Just some input, while it sounds kinda terrible to sugarcoat a rescue dogs behavior keep in mind a few things: #1. The highest priority of these organizations is making sure the dogs find happy homes. Most minor training/behavioral issues are easily remedied with a little patience, but to advertise them to potential new owners is bad. The only things I've noticed they dont sugarcoat is issues with aggression (obviously to avoid anyone getting hurt). When it comes to habits, training fails/house breaking fails they're more likely to put as positive a spin on any of those things as they can. #2. Cant compare dog acclimation times, and breed doesn't have much to do with it. Every dog is going to behave/respond a little different to a sudden change in environment and people. Give it a few days/weeks before you make any hasty decisions or get frustrated. It sounds like you know what you're doing more or less and you're hear actively seeking advice so I think you'll be ok, just have a little patience. I'm sure some other folks here can offer some specific advice for the issues you're seeing.
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Feb 29, 2016 17:24
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I don't have specific advice, but I will say that I don't think your feeling of being overwhelmed is uncommon. I love my dogs, but when I first adopted the first one I almost had a breakdown. The advice online was contradictory (don't tell them to stop barking but distract them so they stop - no idea still how that's supposed to work). I did end up getting a behaviorist and just one visit pretty much gave us all the tools we needed to get to a place where we were comfortable working with the dog. They're not perfect by any means, but I have tools now to curb unwanted behaviors and assess new bad behaviors that may pop up.
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Feb 29, 2016 17:40
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Rogue posted:
Don't get discouraged, it's only been half a day. Yes it's overwhelming and if there's no real solid foundation for training you have to work at it. If he's drinking a boat load of water, he might have been dehydrated or something before coming over. Keep an eye on it and talk to your vet if it keeps going. It would also be a good time to get the neck stuff checked out. Maybe it was a really long ride to get from the fosters place to your house? When my dog was a puppy, I tended to just give him his whole meal piece by piece when training. He's not as food motivated anymore, but that worked for quite a while. It alleviates the concern with becoming overweight/vomiting/getting sick at least.
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Feb 29, 2016 18:38
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Need help with a barking issue. My Manchester Terrier love to chase ball int he park, it keeps him active and fit. The issue is that whenever he returns with the ball he spins and barks over and over (maybe 20-40 seconds), unfortunately I never nipped it in the bud earlier on. What i'm currently doing is either trying to distract him just before dropping the ball (works after about 25 mins of play) but earlier on when he starts I start counting, put my hand out and ignore him, he gets ignored for 7 seconds from last noise. But he just will not stop. Any ideas?
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Mar 9, 2016 18:06
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bad-yeti posted:Any ideas? Make him lie down before you throw the ball, every time. If he has a behavior that he can use to make you throw the ball, he might short-circuit yelling at you and skip to the down.
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Mar 9, 2016 20:39
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Engineer Lenk posted:Make him lie down before you throw the ball, every time. If he has a behavior that he can use to make you throw the ball, he might short-circuit yelling at you and skip to the down. I do that, well at least make him sit, so he returns spins like a spinny thing yapping away then stops, sits down and waits. It's like he knows exactly what to do but is just being defiant.
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Mar 10, 2016 10:14
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bad-yeti posted:I do that, well at least make him sit, so he returns spins like a spinny thing yapping away then stops, sits down and waits. It's like he knows exactly what to do but is just being defiant. My terrier does this as well. (Also with stuffed toys int he house where he'll drop it off then bark at you trying to get you to throw it - which never works.) I don't think he's being defiant, he just gets super excited and it's his way of expressing that. Self control is hard when you're trying to teach it at an older age.
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Mar 10, 2016 14:46
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Rurutia posted:My terrier does this as well. (Also with stuffed toys int he house where he'll drop it off then bark at you trying to get you to throw it - which never works.) I don't think he's being defiant, he just gets super excited and it's his way of expressing that. Self control is hard when you're trying to teach it at an older age. Yeah, it really is that whole super excited bit. If I take him for a lead walk for an hour first and then the park, he's pretty okay. I jsut don't have the time for 4 hours of walking/park per day I guess i'll just keep with what i'm doing and try more distractions.
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Mar 10, 2016 15:41
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Have you tried taking two balls and throwing the second just as he returns with the first, but before he has dropped it and started yapping?
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Mar 10, 2016 18:54
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Fraction posted:Have you tried taking two balls and throwing the second just as he returns with the first, but before he has dropped it and started yapping? Yep, and for some mental reason he will fixate on one ball and completely ignore the other. I think it's like other people have told me, he is just so genuinely excited he can't contain himself. This morning did 30 mins lead walk on road, 15 in park with no ball then an hour with ball and he was mostly quiet. So I am getting there I think. Cheers all for the advice.
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Mar 11, 2016 10:49
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Wait till he stops barking then throw the ball again the instant he stops. Completely ignore him, don't look at him, don't tell him to be quiet or any other commands. He'll eventually piece it together that quiet = more ball time yay.
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Mar 12, 2016 03:32
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:Wait till he stops barking then throw the ball again the instant he stops. Completely ignore him, don't look at him, don't tell him to be quiet or any other commands. He'll eventually piece it together that quiet = more ball time yay. So, my terrier definitely hasn't, we never throw poo poo when he barks and it's been a year lol. I've also been concerned about developing a negative chain of: bark -> silence -> throw.
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Mar 12, 2016 03:34
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What is the proper thing to do when an off-leash dog comes running up to my on-leash dog? My dog hasn't gotten into any fights yet, but she growls and raises hackles, so I definitely don't want to get in a situation where something bad could happen. If a dog slowly approaches we just turn and walk away, but yesterday a dog ran at us and I didn't know what to do. Edit for spelling, and to add: she doesn't give a gently caress about other dogs unless they get up in her poo poo off-leash. Walking on leash dogs she doesn't even pay attention to at all. This is more reactivity to certain situations where she feels trapped. So this is the only time it has happened, but I want to be prepared because people are crazy with their dogs sometimes. cloudy fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Mar 22, 2016 |
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Mar 22, 2016 17:12
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cloudy posted:What is the proper thing to do when an off-leash dog comes running up to my on-leash dog? My dog hasn't gotten into any fights yet, but she growls and raises heckles, so I definitely don't want to get in a situation where something bad could happen. It sort of depends on what level your training is at (as well as your dog's possible reactivity). Normally I cue my dog to sit and hold eye contact. Being stationary and boring normally sends a pretty clear signal to other dogs (and their owners) to move on. If your dog is likely to lash out, I might grab a handful of treats from my pocket and put it right on their nose to feed to them continually while I tried to keep the other dog in control, but this method can backfire if one or both of the dogs is food aggressive. With the treats on the nose I would either keep my dog in a sit, or walk in the opposite direction. If the approaching dog is likely to start a serious altercation, you may be able to buy yourself a bit of time if you throw food into the grass or onto the ground. This will hopefully be more interesting to the strange dog than you and your pup. But obviously it's not cool to feed strangers' dogs, so leave this tactic for emergencies only. Learn to get really loud and stand up for yourself and your dog if you need it. Sometimes approaching dogs are just nuisances but there are other times when they are legitimate threats and you'll need to yell either at the dog or to the owner to leash their animal.
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Mar 22, 2016 17:24
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All that sounds good, thanks! I wasn't sure if yelling/being scary would be good or not, so now I know. I definitely have a problem with being able to do that, I've never really yelled at anyone before. Now I just need to learn how to train myself, hah. In my area the dog owners are scarier than the dogs.
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Mar 22, 2016 18:39
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I've found a good GET and threatening body language towards the off leash dog works pretty well if they continue to approach after you stop with your dog. If they keep going a good shoe -> rib connection generally works.
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Mar 23, 2016 02:50
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I have a question about Trainers. I got my rescue dog about a year and a half ago. Molly is now 6 about 11 lbs and a chi-terrier mix (we think). She is a total doll and a velcro pup. She is pleasant and personable, not yappy and pretty open to new experiences. She is nervous around other dogs, but that is our fault for not really taking her out and socializing her with others. Well we recently decided to foster other small dogs...and that has been going just fine, no worries there, but we thought an obedience class would be good for us and for her going forward. There is a vet/pet spa that I've been going to for YEARS. I trust and love the place, so I signed Molly and me up for their Basic Obedience class. Last night was the (dogless) orientation. I was rather surprised that the Trainer I expected to be there wasn't, and had apparently left recently. The classes were now being taught by two ladies, one the heir apparent of the previous trainer and another lady who I immediately didn't like. The heir apparent starterd her list of bona fides: Learned positive reinforcement techniques by the predecessor, took classes, does stuff with her dogs etc, but was now introducing correction into more intractable clients. The other lady introduced herself as having 5 Cane Corsos and how she was the dominate one and I kind of shut down (she also mentioned shutzhund, but really i'm kind of freaked out by people who have cane corsos so..yeah.). While she didn't say she was a dominance school, she pretty much said that if positive didn't work she goes on to corrective. At one point she advised another class mate that when his Am Staff puppy sat on his feet (as the puppy apparently likes to do) it's the puppy "owning and asserting dominance" over him. She also assumed that because molly was a chi-terrier that I was bringing her because of yappy barking..I had to cut her off and say no..we just want general recall and good dog lessons, no behavior correcting. Part of me wanted to walk out, but I haven't paid any money yet, and they did pass out treat belts and told us to load up on high value treats to bring to class, so it appears that all beginner classes will be positive reinforcement training. All that to say I decided to stick it out through the first session which will be next week just to see what they have to offer. However, I'd like to know some red flags so I can decide if this class is going to be a mistake for my dog, she's super sensitive to people yelling at her or even looking at her forcefully. When I taught her sit, she would cringe when I put the treat over her head. She got over it, but her timidity is always lurking and I'm taking her to this class to fight the timidity NOT make it worse. First class is going to cover loose leash walking and I really don't know if jerking her collar around is what I want/need to do (I don't know that they are going to teach that..I just want to be prepared). What are signs of a lovely trainer? You may have covered this, but it's a long thread. Kiss Kiss Bang Bang fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Apr 20, 2016 |
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Apr 20, 2016 15:26
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I've relaxed some since I wrote the OP. Back then I'd probably have said "run, don't look back". Now I'm significantly more relaxed with trainers and feel that a good trainer is a good trainer, regardless of what tools they have in their toolbox, and even people who admit to using punishment in their approaches with some dogs normally use reinforcement 90-95% of the time. However, I'd probably be pretty guarded going in, and if there are other options I might look into them. The issue I have with trainers who make note of using positive punishment to shut down behaviour, or tools like e-collars or prongs, is that I fear that it can become their go-to option for everyone, and not the specialized tool best left in the hands of only certain people with certain types of dogs with certain specific needs. No trainer worth their salt is likely to advise you to use a punitive method on a nervous and meek Chi-mix, especially for things like basic obedience and recall. I might suggest you go in with an understanding of how you want to approach your training. You're allowed to abstain from certain techniques, and again, a good trainer will have other options for you. There's more than one way to skin a cat, or teach a dog a thing. It's a bit tougher since you're probably there as a bit of a novice, so it may be difficult to filter the good from the not so good, or feel confident enough to ask for certain "special treatment" if required. Which is why I think you'd be best suited to learn the ropes from someone who... doesn't espouse the merits of dominance theory on the first day of class.
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Apr 20, 2016 18:18
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ok that's actually pretty helpful. I'm pretty certain she'll do well in the class as she'll be to nervous to display "pulling on the leash." she'll probably stick close to me all lesson. It's just that when we walk at home and she's comfortable she'll pretty much pull me around the whole walk. So I guess i'll take with a grain of salt whatever homework they give me to address that.
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Apr 20, 2016 18:28
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You don't need her to show the 'bad' behaviour in class to be able to work on it, of course. Reinforcing for the good behaviour there and on walks is the way to go.
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Apr 20, 2016 19:52
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Alright thanks I'll keep all that in mind.
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Apr 20, 2016 20:05
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I'm teaching Rufus some fun tricks and I just have one question about method. If I'm trying to teach him something by using an old trick as the foundation (like paw->wave), he gets very frustrated if he can't do what I ask. So I'll ask for paw and move my hand so he waves instead, but then he just bashes me with his paw even when I click and treat! He catches on very quickly if I shape or lure a behaviour, it's just this particular method and I'd like a way to teach him this way without us both getting frustrated.
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Apr 21, 2016 00:46
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I'm going to xpost this once or twice, hopefully that's okay. My fiancee and I are buying a home in a very nice neighborhood, but one that is in relative proximity to some higher crime areas. We have long wanted to get another dog that is focused on home and self protection. I travel a decent amount and my fiancee is often out jogging or home alone for several nights in a row. She has always had an affinity for European Dobermans. We have a fairly expansive budget, we'd be willing to spend between $5-20K. We're on the west coast, we have homes in Los Angeles and Seattle. It seems our 2 major options are buying a puppy or buying an older (2-3 year) one that is already completely trained. One website I looked at, protectiondogsales.com, wants $3-4K for the puppy and another $2K a month for training with a minimum of 6 months training, which adds up to $15K+ very quickly. They also have fully trained adult dogs that are 2-4 years old that can cost anywhere from $13-30K. We have no interest in competing in Schutzhund, nor do we need a dog that can detect bombs or is police/military ready. While apparently Dobermans live for a fairly long time (10-13 years), I think I would much prefer getting the dog at an early age and helping shape our relationship with it and it's training that buying a fully trained adult dog that's better suited for competitive Schutzhund or guarding the president. I don't think we want to personally train the dog, our preference would be for someone else to conduct the majority of the training and then train us on how to take over. After having a relatively poorly trained Golden Retriever it would be nice to be able to issue commands like "sit and stay" and feel comfortable leaving the dog outside of a grocery store for 10 or 20 minutes. Or not roll over on his belly when strangers enter our home. Its Miller Time fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Apr 30, 2016 |
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Apr 30, 2016 03:12
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just get a gun. and shoot yourself, you loving pussy.
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Apr 30, 2016 03:38
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a more appropriate breed would be a conceal and carry licence
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Apr 30, 2016 04:07
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Dogs are trash for civilian protection purposes. No amount of throwing money at this is going to get you the ideal you have in your head because it doesn't exist. What you usually end up with is an aggressive liability that bites a kid for running past too close to you. And dogs that "protect" homes just get shot when people who break into their houses because burglars don't care about your dog's life. Get an alarm system for your house and a stungun for your fiancee.
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Apr 30, 2016 04:19
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Serella posted:Dogs are trash for civilian protection purposes this basically. i'm involved in protection dog sports and the protection/bitework community and honestly personal protection dogs largely are a loving joke and nothing more than a lawsuit waiting to happen. any effective PPD (of which there are vanishingly few) is going to take a huge amount of constant training and upkeep by their primary handler (ie you or your wife). if getting your golden to do basic commands with any reliability is difficult for you, a PPD is leagues beyond what you're capable of dealing with regardless of how well it's been trained by someone else. literally anyone involved with protection dogs who isn't out to take your money is going to tell you to get a C&C licence rather than a dog. your expectations of a PPD are a completely ridiculous fantasy
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Apr 30, 2016 04:31
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| # ? May 18, 2024 01:49 |
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teach your golden to use a gun
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Apr 30, 2016 05:22
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