|
Gorson posted:Not that it's the source of your problem, but that battery sounds weak. Does it normally make that tick-tick sound after turning it over? This. Seems like your cluster is going bonkers from low voltage too. Sagebrush posted:Please take some of that crap off your keychain. This too. Its not helping your ignition barrel in the least. Razzled posted:i can't roll the bike when the clutch is fully pulled in, in 1st. bike will roll when in neutral. prior to video it fired up and instantly died because i didn't apply choke, could not get it to start again Wet clutch yes? clutch discs and plates get stuck together from the oil. Dirtbikes are notorious for being a pita to kickstart in gear after sitting overnight. Put it in neutral and try again. I'm used to neutral cold starts.in gear with the clutch in theres enough drag left the starter doesn't have enough umph to spin it fast enough. (its not a stock engine either)
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 20:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 22:26 |
|
|
My clutch is WONKY. Let me start by saying a few months ago I snapped a chain and hosed some poo poo up, but not that bad (at the time). Damage: Bent clutch push rod Broke part of clutch slave cylinder Broke the top bolt and female bolt hole on the engine case for the slave Broke a little metal cylinder that went over that top bolt Fixed: Replaced clutch push rod with a new one Replace slave with a used one from ebay Replaced the metal cylinder with a new one Replaced the top bolt with a longer bolt + washer from Ace hardware to fit the top mount. Even though part of the mount was broke, there was still threading further back in. The longer bolt reached it but needed washers to make the slave snug to the bike and not move. After all of that was done the bike was fine. I rode it for a couple months until ~mid February my clutch started getting weird. It would disengage at 3 different points. Point 1 was way out, like barely pull the lever. Point 2 was about halfway, a perfect spot IMO. And point 3 was right next to the bar. If you let the lever out at all the bike would start to pull. I've posted on the Stromtrooper forums trying to figure out what is wrong with it. So far: I pulled the sprocket cover. It was very dirty under there, and it looked like the slave was leaking at the piston but I'm not positive if it was oil or hydraulic fluid. The master cylinder didn't look low at all. Cleaned it up to see where the leak was coming from. No difference so far. Bled the clutch. This was my first time doing it so I'm hoping I did it right. It seemed to make no difference. Replaced the rubber oring around the piston inside the slave cylinder, and refilled with fluid and bled it. While I was bleeding it seemed like constant air was coming through the line. I don't know if this means there was a leak or if the tube just sucked and was pulling some in. This made no difference. At this point the clutch is disengaging at the bar about 80% of the time, and 20% of the time it will be around point 2. When disengaging at the bar, probably like 90% of the time the bike is just wanting to pull anyways, cause it's not fully disengaging. When I shift while riding, it was shifting fine and the disengage was typically point 1. Everything felt fine then. While riding I was pulling in the clutch lever to feel it and two things; 1) The lever is super fuckin bouncy and wonky feeling (front brake lever doesnt do this), and 2) the disengage point feels around point 2 until I'm slowing down and then the resistance will give way and then the disengage point is point 3. As of now it looks like the options are to open the clutch and look for damage, or I need a new engine because that broke case mount is causing issues (as suggested by a Stromtrooper forum goer.) If it was the case mount I don't know why it would work fine for a couple months and then poo poo the bucket. I see NO movement in the clutch slave cylinder when pumping the handle. The bolt and washers are snug. Another possibility is somewhere in the master to slave area, a leak perhaps or something worn out? Right now I'm going to go check under the sprocket cover and see if the leak is hydraulic fluid or oil. Then I'm going to bled the clutch again and try not to be poo poo at it since I'm not in a hurry now. PIX: The washers  Under the sprocket cover. You can see the broken mount hole right above the push rod  The dirty clutch slave cylinder  Unfortunatly no clean pics at the moment. I lost all the pictures from down there on my old phone when it fell off on the freeway. I'll try to grab a cleaner picture of the broken mount. Someone please help, I can't afford a new engine and I want my bike to work correctly 
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 23:38
|
|
|
Coydog posted:I've read the instruction on how to straighten forks here, and my impression was that the front had to be off the ground. My very trusted mechanic told me the same "loosen all the bolts and shake around" that I've seen here, but he said that I don't have to have the front off the ground. In fact, part of his instruction was to hold the front brake and slam the bike forward a few times. I can't imagine how this doesn't cause the forks to slide up in the triples. I have no way to jack the bike up and fix if they do, so I really need to make sure before I loosen anything. I have a cheap milk crate thing from revzilla that I use. Just tip the bike over on its sidestand, scoot it under with one foot and then tip the bike back onto it. May require a try or two to get the technique down but it's simple and easy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 00:04
|
|
|
builds character posted:I have a cheap milk crate thing from revzilla that I use. Just tip the bike over on its sidestand, scoot it under with one foot and then tip the bike back onto it. May require a try or two to get the technique down but it's simple and easy. The milk crates I got are too short to even reach the bike.  I'll go hunt for some that are bigger. Being able to use a milk crate through this method is so so very cool, I must say.Slavvy posted:Loosen only the top triple dreggory posted:I'm fairly certain it's the bottom triple you loosen, not the top. It's the twist between the top triple and the bottom of the forks you want to sort out, so everything between that needs to be able to rotate freely. Thank you for your advice. I'll try this. Won't loosening the bottom triple push the bike down? I guess these forks don't slide as easily as I'm imagining they do. I picture it all going in one quick ZIP! and I'll have a hellaflushyo sumo on my hands that I can't even put the kickstand down on.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 05:10
|
|
|
Razzled posted:alright boys let's play doctor I'm gonna go out on a limb and say dead battery + your clutch is toast, your clutch master/lines/slave need to be bled, or you've broken a clutch rod.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 05:15
|
|
|
Schroeder91 posted:My clutch is WONKY. Pushrod is probably binding because the slave cylinder isn't pushing on it straight, because you didn't make sure the mating surface was level. Replace the pushrod, sand the mount flat and the install enough spacer material that the slave cylinder is actually flat, and that should fix it. If it doesn't, the better case is you thrashed something in the clutch assembly on the other side or damaged the slave cylinder piston with side loading it, the worse case is you damaged the pushrod run through the cases in such a fashion that you wear out pushrods all the time now.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 06:00
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm gonna go out on a limb and say dead battery + your clutch is toast, your clutch master/lines/slave need to be bled, or you've broken a clutch rod. Easiest way to check is to remove the slave cylinder cover and take a look at the clutch rod on that end right? If I don't mess with the banjo bolt will I still need to bleed the clutch after removing the slave cylinder assuming the rod is not actually broken?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 10:48
|
|
|
Razzled posted:alright boys let's play doctor CursedShitBox already mentioned it, but a lot of times the clutch won't fully disengage if it's a cold start, until it warms up and the oil starts moving around. I occasionally had the same issues with the KLR, just pop it into neutral and try again, that's perfectly normal. Otherwise your battery sounded pretty weak in the video. Maybe time to get it tested or replaced? E: You should also try hooking your battery up to a float charger for awhile and get it topped off to make sure it's not low from trying to crank it a bunch Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 12:59 on Mar 4, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 12:57
|
|
|
Coydog posted:Thank you for your advice. I'll try this. Won't loosening the bottom triple push the bike down? I guess these forks don't slide as easily as I'm imagining they do. I picture it all going in one quick ZIP! and I'll have a hellaflushyo sumo on my hands that I can't even put the kickstand down on. Not if you keep the top triple tight, they won't. Here's a (lengthy but thorough) video explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSunBRB6-r8&t=220s (Skipped ahead to relevant bit.) If you loosen both top and bottom triples then yes, the forks will slide vertically. dreggory fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Mar 4, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 15:00
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:CursedShitBox already mentioned it, but a lot of times the clutch won't fully disengage if it's a cold start, until it warms up and the oil starts moving around. I occasionally had the same issues with the KLR, just pop it into neutral and try again, that's perfectly normal. Ok thanks dudes. Will start with a fresh battery and diagnose from there
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 15:40
|
|
|
Coydog posted:The milk crates I got are too short to even reach the bike. milk crate + 2x4s? I'm surprised this doesn't work - http://www.revzilla.com/product/bike-crate as it's pretty tall and works fine on my bike. It's taller than a regular milk crate and a lot stronger. If you have some tools you can easily build a cheap stand out of 2x4s too. edit: if you're going to build a stand don't forget to account for sag when weight comes off the rear wheel.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 16:19
|
|
|
Razzled posted:Easiest way to check is to remove the slave cylinder cover and take a look at the clutch rod on that end right? If I don't mess with the banjo bolt will I still need to bleed the clutch after removing the slave cylinder assuming the rod is not actually broken? Yes because you don't want to risk bending the rod, or snaping a bolt/case/slave housing as you bolt the slave cylinder back on. 1 Open bleeder on slave cyl 2 compress piston then close bleeder 3 bolt slave back on bike 4 add fluid to master cyl reservoir 5 pump 6 and repeat steps 4 and 5 as necessary
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 16:35
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Yes because you don't want to risk bending the rod, or snaping a bolt/case/slave housing as you bolt the slave cylinder back on. Here's something that I've been wondering because of this little saga: the workshop manual for my ZRX said that if you're removing the slave cylinder you should cable tie the clutch lever to the handlebar prior to removal. That doesn't really make sense to me, wouldn't that make the slave cylinder blow out? It certainly worked perfectly at the time but to this day I still don't understand why, it seems totally backwards.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 19:22
|
|
|
I had someone try to tell me the other day that fuel injected bikes "learn" their rider's habits and adjust fueling accordingly. That's total bullshit, right?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:18
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Here's something that I've been wondering because of this little saga: the workshop manual for my ZRX said that if you're removing the slave cylinder you should cable tie the clutch lever to the handlebar prior to removal. That doesn't really make sense to me, wouldn't that make the slave cylinder blow out? It certainly worked perfectly at the time but to this day I still don't understand why, it seems totally backwards. Not if you crack the bleeder valve on the slave when you compress it. Then tighten the bleeder after it's fully compressed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:25
|
|
|
I need a pair of mirrors for the handlebars that aren't giant rectangles and have a convex lense, nor one that magnifies everything  Anyone have suggestions? Been looking at some puig but they're pricey and I can't tell if they magnify or not.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:31
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:I had someone try to tell me the other day that fuel injected bikes "learn" their rider's habits and adjust fueling accordingly. That's total bullshit, right? Took a couple runs w/o adjustments on the dyno for my wife's bike to do a full power run. Sometimes Ulyusses will ping a little if I dig it out of a slow corner from like 2000 rpm but a couple corners later it's grunting out just fine. I dunno but I'll buy that snake oil.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:34
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:I had someone try to tell me the other day that fuel injected bikes "learn" their rider's habits and adjust fueling accordingly. That's total bullshit, right? It's bullshit but theoretically possible, if you jammed an AI in the ECU. A bike that automatically adjusts the throttle response curve to "suit" the rider sounds like the most maddening thing imaginable. e/ unless I've misunderstood what you/he meant? Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Mar 4, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:34
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:I had someone try to tell me the other day that fuel injected bikes "learn" their rider's habits and adjust fueling accordingly. That's total bullshit, right? IDK about motorcycles but I want to say that cars have been doing this for years, more so for automatic transmission shift points.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:37
|
|
|
Some of the aftermarket ECUs do it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:43
|
|
|
edit: I don't know about this ^^^^ but I assume that aftermarket/non-road ECUs are way more programmable because they're not subject to emissions restrictions which are going to be a huge driver of the fuel mapping. A MIRACLE posted:I had someone try to tell me the other day that fuel injected bikes "learn" their rider's habits and adjust fueling accordingly. That's total bullshit, right? yes. This is helpful: http://www.bikesindia.org/reviews/motorcycle-fuel-injection-fi-system-explained.html You basically have a fuel map that the ECU has and you can adjust that by reprogramming the ECU but the ECU doesn't adjust the fuel map based on whether you love wheelies or not. It's possible the person is thinking of tricking ECUs by making it seem like it's colder than it is which tricks the bike into putting out a richer mixture but, as I understand it (someone come correct me if I'm wrong on this), the ECU is programmed to look at other variables like how much oxygen is in the exhaust and then it says "oh hey I've been running a bit rich I better tone it down" and then it turns out you bought an expensive piece of junk that did nothing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:50
|
|
|
Cars with automatic transmissions absolutely adjust their shift points based on driving style. If you tend to demand quicker acceleration, after a couple of weeks of driving the car will be shifting later; if you drive like a grandma, the car will learn to shift later and keep the RPMs down. (This is a big part of why rental cars always seem to have lovely schizophrenic transmissions). I can't see how user input would ever affect the fueling map, though. The map tells the computer how to extract a given amount of power from the engine, and the parameters aren't going to change unless you've messed with the engine itself. There is no reason for that to change based on the rider's habits. It would be possible for a bike with throttle-by-wire to adjust its response on the fly, for instance making it less responsive if the person never gets to the top half of the RPM range, but that sounds like a really stupid idea. I would want my bike to always behave in a highly predictable manner. And manually controlled "street" and "race" modes already exist anyway.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:52
|
|
|
dreggory posted:Not if you keep the top triple tight, they won't. Here's a (lengthy but thorough) video explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSunBRB6-r8&t=220s builds character posted:milk crate + 2x4s? I'm surprised this doesn't work - http://www.revzilla.com/product/bike-crate as it's pretty tall and works fine on my bike. It's taller than a regular milk crate and a lot stronger. If you have some tools you can easily build a cheap stand out of 2x4s too.  Bonus pic of my rad sumo with clean new tires/wheels. I got it muddy again right after, though. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 23:57
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I can't see how user input would ever affect the fueling map, though. The map tells the computer how to extract a given amount of power from the engine, and the parameters aren't going to change unless you've messed with the engine itself. There is no reason for that to change based on the rider's habits. I can see it being an artifact of imperfect fueling. This is informed by how my Buell's ECM works, I am sure other bikes work differently but... If i'm cruising along at 3k and that part of my fuel map is not quite right, say a little fat, the ECM is gonna trim the whole map back to compensate. So then when I give it the beans and the "beans" part of the map is fueled correctly, this will get a leaner charge than it wants until it's had an opportunity to read the lambda sensor in the "beans" range. As it approaches the right fueling, it makes more power. That's all hypothetical in my case because my poo poo is tuned up nice. Buells run VE maps (load vs rpm) trimmed off closed-loop feedback, not a MAP sensor.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 02:15
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:I had someone try to tell me the other day that fuel injected bikes "learn" their rider's habits and adjust fueling accordingly. That's total bullshit, right? The usual mostly false with a hint of truth - ECUs that have a sensor hookup will fine tune fueling under certain circumstances. It doesn't tune itself "to the riders habits" but it does tweak the fueling map to better handle differences in fuel quality, minor variation in part quality, etc.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 03:54
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Not if you crack the bleeder valve on the slave when you compress it. Then tighten the bleeder after it's fully compressed. Read my post again, I wasn't talking about installation. The actual wording in the manual: -Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the engine. Push the piston into the cylinder as far as it will go. -Apply the clutch lever slowly and hold it with a band [zip tied to the handlebar in the picture]. Note: holding the clutch lever keeps the piston from coming out. How the gently caress does that make sense? Wouldn't holding the clutch lever cause the piston to fall out straight away? I know that it doesn't because I followed the procedure and everything went fine but I still don't understand why. Opening a bleed screw etc was never mentioned.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 04:08
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Read my post again, I wasn't talking about installation. Leaving the lever out means that the piston can fall out since it can just draw fluid down from the reservoir and come out. I would be willing to bet that this would never happen under the force of gravity alone, considering how difficult brake pistons can be to remove, but I GUESS it could be possible Just moving the lever probably only moves the piston a fraction of an inch, not enough to fall out. Finally, putting the lever all the way down to the bar probably stops fluid from draining out, like at 100% lever pull the clutch master closes off or something and allows no fluid movement in or out. This would do two things: 1: it would keep lovely clutch master seals from slowly engaging the clutch at lights and whatnot, and 2: it would hold the piston in the extended position indefinitely during maintenance. I cant prove that this is what is happening, but I would be willing to bet thats it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 06:02
|
|
|
Since I am going to commit to the former rental 2014 F700GS BMW motorcycle life... 1) Any specialty tools I should get? I know I may need Torx screws, shim feelers , etc. 2) Are the repair manual dvd and/or the diagnostic tool worth it? 3) If the motorcycle has a center stand, do i still need a front/rear stand if I want to remove the wheels? 4) If my phone tells me to take the third right, should I take it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 21:01
|
|
|
Delboy is the poo poo. He reminded me to do my alignment again.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 21:22
|
|
|
ElMaligno posted:Since I am going to commit to the former rental 2014 F700GS BMW motorcycle life... It's a BMW, it will instinctively point you to one of two destinations, the nearest Starbucks or the nearest BMW service center.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 22:01
|
|
|
ElMaligno posted:3) If the motorcycle has a center stand, do i still need a front/rear stand if I want to remove the wheels? You can usually remove the rear wheel with just the center stand. To take off the front wheel, you need to tilt the bike back a little bit and put a block under the bottom.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 22:17
|
|
|
Outside Dawg posted:It's a BMW, it will instinctively point you to one of two destinations, the nearest Starbucks or the nearest BMW service center. I already have 6 different ways to brew coffee, no need for starbucks. I also have like 4 BMW certified dealerships near me and two of them are accessible to public transit. But i kinda want to learn how to do the basics in case I get stationed on a place where the nearest BMW dealership is a 4 hour drive away.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 22:21
|
|
|
ElMaligno posted:Since I am going to commit to the former rental 2014 F700GS BMW motorcycle life... 1. Not sure about the 700 but my 650 single needed some funny torx bits and a large socket to get the oil bolt out. Bought a BMW specific tool roll to throw under the seat and (Cruz tools?) to have around and it had most of the stuff. 2. No idea. Internet has tons of info usually. 3. Not really. You can weight the front or rear to hold it up. Really nice for cleaning/lubing the chain! 4. Only into a Starbucks. Seriously though go drive around in some dirt or gravel for fun. I
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2016 22:48
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:Finally, putting the lever all the way down to the bar probably stops fluid from draining out, like at 100% lever pull the clutch master closes off or something and allows no fluid movement in or out. This would do two things: 1: it would keep lovely clutch master seals from slowly engaging the clutch at lights and whatnot, and 2: it would hold the piston in the extended position indefinitely during maintenance. This has sold me, that makes good sense. Unrelated: Anyone have any experience with these things? 
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2016 00:59
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:This has sold me, that makes good sense. Yes, they're loving brilliant, a million times easier to use than paddock stands, and way sturdier too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2016 01:29
|
|
|
Man I really want their sky lift. Getting low to the ground is killer on my back and knees
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2016 01:49
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Yes, they're loving brilliant, a million times easier to use than paddock stands, and way sturdier too. Sweet, now I just have to talk them into shipping direct to me because the nz distributor seems to think that original retail + shipping to NZ + another hundred bucks on top is a reasonable pricing strategy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2016 02:21
|
|
|
If it helps they also have a canadian distributor which is the only way you can get one of those in amerikka. Bonus points that the canadian dollar is currently tanked so they're effectively all on 25% off sale at the moment! https://bluestreakracing.ca/products/?manufacturer=75 Be sure to buy the front lift addon as well And twisto is correct with one caveat....once you connect the right piece to the left and they're on the swingarm bolts, and you tighten the bottom thumb bolt down to hold the two pieces together, be sure to use the twist knob on the right side to put tension on the whole system. It'll seem secure without it. It's lying to you. Aside from that, the only catch is that the fittings are bike specific. But when in an emergency we needed to lift my friend's SV, we were able to make do by using a series of sockets to ghetto rig it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2016 04:03
|
|
|
Schroeder91 posted:Man I really want their sky lift. Getting low to the ground is killer on my back and knees 
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2016 04:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 22:26 |
|
|
Does anyone have any experience with 390 dukes? A couple of friends and I are doing a tour of Tasmania in nevember, which will have some light to moderate off road. I have heard the stock alloys are cracking in India due to potholes, so am concerned about the same happening to mine. What sort of options are there for after market wheels? I am also looking at Pirelli MT60s front and back. The tour is going to be abou 80/20 on road/off road, and I have about 3 km of gravel road to get to my house so these seem like the closest fit to that usage.... does this sound right? Is there anything I need to modify or watch out for? Do I need to look at suspension? My friend will help me fab a bash plate. Edit: and is there such a thing as a not-lovely forum for ktm? Ive always found AI to be superior in content and knowledge to anywhere else and it seems the same in this forum... Id start a KTM megathread if I had any useful knowledge 
lilbeefer fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Mar 7, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2016 03:00
|
|
