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DJ Dizzy posted:Also, lava bases for blood angels. Yes/No? EDIT: http://www.thewaaaghstudios.com/commissions/2014/lavaba.html
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Mar 15, 2016 13:36
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So, after very careful consideration, I think I have decided on the base model for my Chaos Lord. Because my creative impulses don't have a concept of what money is, that model is Sevatar from Forgeworld. The thing is, I need figuring out what to do about the knife hand, as I really want something else there. I was originally thinking shield. But that probably doesn't make much sense with a 2 handed chain spear. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do with his off hand? Maybe a pointing finger could work, but I am not sure if an appropriate pointing bit has been made for that hand.
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Mar 15, 2016 19:26
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Been playing with OSL. My brushwork is messy as hell, but it turned out okay. I would describe this as ridiculously sick to death.
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Mar 16, 2016 03:14
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Finished the Operation Icestorm PanO Father Knight. I've got Imperial Assault arriving some time today for a change of theme.
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Mar 16, 2016 11:40
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More jungle Tau stuff.     
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Mar 16, 2016 23:34
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Wrapped up two more Chimeras, and an Enginseer. One of the Chimeras is for a unit of Armageddon Ork Hunters, so has a counts-as Heavy Stubber
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Mar 17, 2016 09:25
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Man, both the Tau and those Chimera and priest look awesome. Love the weathering on the Chimeras. The only thing I can think of with the Tau that looks a bit off (besides the tits) is that the aquarium plants look a bit shiny. Putting some Matte Varnish on them might take off the sheen and blend them well with the basing. (Unless you wanted we looking jungle leaves, then it is fine) seriously, they look very cool. In other news, I just bought a Dremel, as I have a large chunk of pewter that I need to remove 75%, and I figure that it has other uses. Does anyone have any tips for using a Dremel. Suggested purchases on Amazon listed stympic powder to stop bleeding, so that might not be a good sign.
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Mar 17, 2016 15:10
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jadebullet posted:Man, both the Tau and those Chimera and priest look awesome. Love the weathering on the Chimeras. Thanks man, yeah some of them I left as they came and some I put some ardcoat on, I was trying to get a kind of lush/wet jungle look to them, but I agree they look a little plastic-y. I'll try matting some down and see, cheers!
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Mar 17, 2016 16:11
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Imperial March.mp3 My Imperial Assault box arrived yesterday and I couldn't wait to start on the miniatures.   And a drybrushed Wookie I started on in between glazes. 
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Mar 17, 2016 16:23
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I've had that dang game for months and hardly touched the dudes and you come along and paint six in a day! Boooo! I'm especially loving Vader's chest/shoulder pauldron thing. Impressive. Most impressive.
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Mar 17, 2016 16:54
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Dr. Phildo posted:I've had that dang game for months and hardly touched the dudes and you come along and paint six in a day! Boooo! Thanks. To be fair the Guard and Vader are using the exact same three colours (except the green button on his control box) so it was just a case of plastering the red over the guard and saber, by which time the first guard is dry ready for the second coat. Vader was painted in German Grey at the same time as the red on the other guys. Then all 5 had blue washed into the recesses and over the red cloth, while that was drying several drybrushes of various browns on the Wookie. The left over almost dried out red on the palette was mixed with a poo poo load of medium and painted over the cape for a quick lighting effect to break up the dark grey. Stone Grey added to the base colours for quick highlights and a few random stripes of grey along vaders arm for a glossy effect. In hindsight I'm playing my first game of it tomorrow so I should've painted models that'll probably get used, but I've only got grey primer and screw painting white over 9 Storm Troopers by hand.
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Mar 17, 2016 17:11
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BULBASAUR posted:I get all mine from https://www.kjmagnetics.com/ These look rad, thanks!
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Mar 17, 2016 17:55
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I learned a thing today! I'm nearsighted with astigmatisms and alternate between glasses and contacts. When I was oathing I wore glasses, and could see the smaller details clearly enough to paint. Lately I've had trouble finding details, lines to highlight, and keeping my paint consistent when holding things up to paint. I haven't had glasses in months. Looks like I'm going back to the eye doc.
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Mar 17, 2016 19:45
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What's a good wash for going over Gold? Working on these guys - http://privateerpress.com/hordes/gallery/trollbloods/warlocks/hoarluk-doomshaper-dire-prophet I have the full Army Painter Coloured tones set.
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Mar 18, 2016 01:19
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Harkano posted:What's a good wash for going over Gold? Working on these guys - http://privateerpress.com/hordes/gallery/trollbloods/warlocks/hoarluk-doomshaper-dire-prophet Strong and soft tones work much better than the dark one on gold. Purple or green are fun for giving it a magical tint.
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Mar 18, 2016 02:18
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Painted Brewmaster for Malifaux. Following old advice from a mini painter friend to use purple ink on red to dull the color a bit and reduce Merry Christmas syndrome. I didn't miss my life's calling. Also Wyrd is really fond of extremely shallow details (the legwraps on Brewmaster's legs) and painting them is annoying as poo poo.
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Mar 18, 2016 05:18
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Dueling Bandsaws posted:Painted Brewmaster for Malifaux. Following old advice from a mini painter friend to use purple ink on red to dull the color a bit and reduce Merry Christmas syndrome. With those shallow details, have you thought of bringing them out more with a layer of a dark paint around them? You know, sort of like blacklining, but with a darker green in this instance. There were a few 80s/90s minis I painted a while back where the detail was lost and I had to kind of make my own with impromptu blacklining.
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Mar 18, 2016 05:40
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Not that I don't think this looks good, because it does. But, the pink line on the lightsabre only makes from the angle that you photographed it from I know that's what it looks like in the movies, but it's a highlight that only works in a single angle.
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Mar 18, 2016 05:51
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Star Man posted:Not that I don't think this looks good, because it does. But, the pink line on the lightsabre only makes from the angle that you photographed it from I know that's what it looks like in the movies, but it's a highlight that only works in a single angle. Consider the alternatives though. Either you don't highlight it al all and it looks bad and unfinished, or you highlight it more traditionally and it looks like a red wiffle bat instead of a laser beam.
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Mar 18, 2016 05:56
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Or you cut it off, replace with transparent red rod, shape it, and add an LED inside Vader's body to make it glow. 
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Mar 18, 2016 05:58
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JoshTheStampede posted:Consider the alternatives though. Either you don't highlight it al all and it looks bad and unfinished, or you highlight it more traditionally and it looks like a red wiffle bat instead of a laser beam. This is why I think painting highlights with a specific light source in mind on a three-dimensional object is loving stupid. It makes sense from that angle and that angle only. Avenging Dentist posted:Or you cut it off, replace with transparent red rod, shape it, and add an LED inside Vader's body to make it glow. The transparent rod would be good enough.
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Mar 18, 2016 06:00
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Star Man posted:This is why I think painting highlights with a specific light source in mind on a three-dimensional object is loving stupid. It makes sense from that angle and that angle only. It works for lots of things (e.g. torches and source lighting), but not for things with a corona, and arguably not for things whose light source is out of the "frame". (I like the latter in general, but not so much for really extreme cases of NMM.) Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Mar 18, 2016 |
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Mar 18, 2016 06:02
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Avenging Dentist posted:It works for lots of things (e.g. torches and source lighting), but not for things with a corona, and arguably not for things whose light source is out of the "frame". Exactly. The glow from Vader's lightsabre on his cape and right side of his body is great.
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Mar 18, 2016 06:07
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Star Man posted:the pink line on the lightsabre only makes from the angle that you photographed it from I know that's what it looks like in the movies, but it's a highlight that only works in a single angle. JoshTheStampede posted:Consider the alternatives though. Either you don't highlight it al all and it looks bad and unfinished, or you highlight it more traditionally and it looks like a red wiffle bat instead of a laser beam. Josh is right the problem with not highlighting it is that it looked like a red stick rather than something that actually glows. Or highlighting it the same as anything else i.e. imaginary light from above looks odd when the centre/hilt of the saber is the source of the light. It works from the other side too as there's a stripe on the front and the back of the lightsaber and the glow on the cape, hand and leg work from other angles as the light is coming from a point on the model. The other thing to remember is that this picture will probably be the only time the model is seen by anyone because I doubt we'll ever get far enough into the game that Vader will make an appearance. Avenging Dentist posted:Or you cut it off, replace with transparent red rod, shape it, and add an LED inside Vader's body to make it glow. That would be cool but way beyond my abilities/patience. At least when his hand snapped off from bad drilling it would be the same hand and authentic like in the movies. Star Man posted:The transparent rod would be good enough. I'm the guy who painted over the transparent rods on Necrons  
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Mar 18, 2016 08:07
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If you want to get good at painting minis you have to choose a default viewing angle anyways so OSL is totally fine within that context. Otherwise all your poo poo is just going to look like it belongs on a Heroscape table.
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Mar 18, 2016 09:06
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The issue isn't with OSL because as the name implies, the object lights itself. The light source is in the model itself, casts highlights and shadows that work from whatever angle you look at them. The default viewing angle requirement only happens when you place highlights based on a hypothetical single light source. Take a look at the highlight on Vaders left shin, for instance. If you look at the model from the front, it makes the armor look like it is reflecting light like a mirror polish. If you look at the miniature in profile, that highlight will look wrong.
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Mar 18, 2016 09:45
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theroachman posted:The issue isn't with OSL because as the name implies, the object lights itself. The light source is in the model itself, casts highlights and shadows that work from whatever angle you look at them. The stripe on the shin and arm is just another highlight only it works like a fake edge. I do this on most semi curved surfaces just add to definition to the model otherwise it ends up a bit flat. Its also why I'm not good at painting larger models as the trick doesn't work. You can see the same thing done on pretty much every model I've painted, including the Infinity Knight I posted earlier (along his horizontally oriented arm). I think it still looks ok in profile as your brain just uses the highlights to interpret where the natural light comes from. Here's Vader side on, for me it looks like the light source comes from just above and in front of him.  I think the OSL looks better now that the glazes have had nearly 24hrs to dry though
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Mar 18, 2016 10:23
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I've been away from this thread for so long. Some really good stuff in the last couple pages! Loving the Steel Legion! richyp kicking rear end as usual  Hopefully I'll have some X-Wing repaints to show off soon if I can continue to summon the will to paint.
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Mar 18, 2016 11:58
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jadebullet posted:In other news, I just bought a Dremel, as I have a large chunk of pewter that I need to remove 75%, and I figure that it has other uses. Does anyone have any tips for using a Dremel. Dr. Red Ranger posted:I learned a thing today! I'm nearsighted with astigmatisms and alternate between glasses and contacts. When I was oathing I wore glasses, and could see the smaller details clearly enough to paint. Lately I've had trouble finding details, lines to highlight, and keeping my paint consistent when holding things up to paint. I haven't had glasses in months.
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Mar 18, 2016 13:26
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There really isn't a good way to do lightsabers at 28mm. It's always gonna be wrong and Richyp's approach looks good, so it's fine. When realism won't work just do what looks good. Here's mine with a different approach: It might look the same from all angles, but it also doesn't look like a lightsaber so ehh. I also painted the entirety of imperial assault in 3 weeks, which nearly broke my love of painting.
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Mar 18, 2016 14:27
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Cross post from the oath thread. I have to say that I'm really pleased with how this guy turned out.Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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Mar 18, 2016 16:21
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Star Man posted:This is why I think painting highlights with a specific light source in mind on a three-dimensional object is loving stupid. It makes sense from that angle and that angle only. Transparent rods look like cheap toys on minis. I've thought that since Necrons came with them. We spend hours painting in highlights and shadows to fake light reactions and create the illusion of scale, and putting in an unpainted plastic rod ruins that completely. Your advice is basically "don't paint lightsabers or torches or lanterns". Besides, that Vader looks fine from other angles, as the other shots show. People say the same "only looks good from one angle" thing about NMM and it's massively overblown. Models sometimes have sweet spots, sure, but the idea that if you spin something fifteen degrees it suddenly becomes a magic eye picture is silly. I do think it's hard to get a good ambient/environmental light situation to read on a mini that isn't standing in a diorama that can reinforce the illusion, but when the light source is in frame it reads fine.
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Mar 18, 2016 17:47
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I'm working on another of my themed warbands for Frostgrave, using the Cthulhu models from Scibor. The idea is that i'm going to run them as my summoner wizard, but I'm torn about using their Cthulhu proper model for my summoned demon. He's just a little too bulky for me and his wings are a bit small. Aside from this one, I'm also shying away from Reaper's Cthulhu model as he looks like he's had one too many beers. Anyone have any recommendations for miniature companies that make demons, monsters, etc., that I could use for the warband?
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Mar 18, 2016 18:23
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Making highlights come from light source angles that would look good to a typical player seeing the mini from vs one in front of the mini that looks great in pictures has often been a quandary I have. Thankfully, this isn't a problem for the vehicles I play with now since a picture of the front looks like rear end.
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Mar 18, 2016 18:30
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JoshTheStampede posted:People say the same "only looks good from one angle" thing about NMM and it's massively overblown. My real issue is when people do SENMM. It looks like garbage.
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Mar 18, 2016 18:38
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Avenging Dentist posted:My real issue is when people do SENMM. It looks like garbage. Most of the time, yeah. It's a very 90s wizard van look that was WAAAAAAAAY overdone for a while. Ive seen models with tiny bits of it, like chrome piping on a marine backpack, that looked great, but apart from that or actually painting the bumpers on a 1950s Cadillac it looks silly.
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Mar 18, 2016 18:40
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Avenging Dentist posted:My real issue is when people do SENMM. It looks like garbage. I will fight you. The comic book wizard van look makes those models look  .
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Mar 18, 2016 19:16
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CommissarRed posted:I'm working on another of my themed warbands for Frostgrave, using the Cthulhu models from Scibor. The idea is that i'm going to run them as my summoner wizard, but I'm torn about using their Cthulhu proper model for my summoned demon. He's just a little too bulky for me and his wings are a bit small. Fenris Games have a mythos range and are the guys who produce the Cthulhu Wars minis, maybe they'll have something suitable. Also you could use the Frostgrave Cultists as basic mooks and have the bigger gribblies as your Knights and whatnot.
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Mar 18, 2016 19:22
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Avenging Dentist posted:My real issue is when people do SENMM. It looks like garbage. I've been super hyped to paint the oldcron that's been in my painting que in SENMM. Sure it looks bad and dumb, but also awesome.
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Mar 18, 2016 19:42
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Next thing you know, people will say cel shaded minis ( http://gundamguy.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/1100-rx-78-2-gundam-animation-color.html?m=1 ) look bad and we'll start using real metal metallics again.
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Mar 18, 2016 19:48
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