|
Hey guys, I'm looking to get my first airbrush after a couple years of painting models with brushes only. Any suggestions of a not overly expensive airbrush that's good to learn on? Hoping to get some practice in on models soon before I get a stupid amount of kickstarter stuff this summer...
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 00:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 20:03 |
|
|
Anyone used this before: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Squadron-9050-Modellers-Putty-Green/dp/B000H7MVMG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1458779144&sr=8-7&keywords=green+stuff ??? Thinking of trying something different than greenstuff
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 01:26
|
|
|
It's basically liquid green stuff. So good for light gap filling, but there is no way you're gonna sculpt anything with it. Haven't used it in years.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 01:27
|
|
|
Moola posted:Anyone used this before: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Squadron-9050-Modellers-Putty-Green/dp/B000H7MVMG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1458779144&sr=8-7&keywords=green+stuff For what it's worth, I was looking at that not long ago and opted for Mr. Dissolved Putty instead, since the latter seemed like it was easier to work with. As Bulbasaur says, it's not for sculpting, although you could probably do small things. Here's a video with someone using it so you can see the consistency: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-VKXeO7es4. Mr. Dissolved Putty, on the other hand, is a liquid consistency that you brush on. I find it pretty useful for working with resin. You can probably get it anywhere that sells Gundams. I get mine from http://www.usagundamstore.com/. If you're looking for alternatives to green stuff, I've tried the following: Brown Stuff: Not much experience with this, but it starts out softer than GS and should work better for making hard edges. It's also sandable. Currently the only place I know of to get this is from P3. ProCreate: It's grey, which is nice, and fairly flexible in the mix. It's sandable, too, but the cure time is really short (like an hour or two, tops). Apoxie Sculpt: Not nearly as rubbery as GS, so it'll tear if you stretch it out too much. I've used it for highly-textured surfaces. This too is sandable, and has the benefit of being pretty cheap. Magic Sculp is roughly equivalent.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 01:53
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:So has anyone tried making basing flagstones out of small squares of cardboard? 
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 02:13
|
|
|
Anyone with a patriot 105 mind detailing their cleaning routine? Mine keeps clogging up on me while priming with stynylrz no matter what my pressure seems to be or my between color cleaning ritual is.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 03:52
|
|
|
BlackIronHeart posted:What's Guild Ball's scale and what country/continent do you live in? The same 28-32mm scale everything is in. Terms like Heroic and whatever is mostly marketing jargon and won't affect whether a barrel will be the right size.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 04:59
|
|
|
Here is my third mini. I had some problem with the paint not sticking on the edge of the dress on the back, and I think the contrast can be pushed on the blade. Overall I'm happy how it turned out and it's good to see improvement compared to the first two    Next week I'll be able to start on my first real project: Blood Rage.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 05:28
|
|
|
I ordered some Raphael 8404s from Dickblick and they shipped one of them without a cover so the bristles are bent to hell, is there any way to fix it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 09:50
|
|
|
Ilor posted:I have. Well, cardstock, not cardboard, but I think that's what you meant anyway. It works, but it's loving time consuming. OK for the one-off display mini I was making for a friend, totally a non-starter for an entire army. Even if you're on a serious budget, your time is probably better spent hustling on a streetcorner giving blowjobs to fat, hairy dudes and spending the money on resin bases. Plus, think of all that fat, hairy cock you'd be getting. Wow, uh... Thanks?
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 11:46
|
|
|
ghetto wormhole posted:I ordered some Raphael 8404s from Dickblick and they shipped one of them without a cover so the bristles are bent to hell, is there any way to fix it? Call them and complain - I'm sure they will send a new one.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 13:50
|
|
|
Pash posted:Hey guys, I'm looking to get my first airbrush after a couple years of painting models with brushes only. Any suggestions of a not overly expensive airbrush that's good to learn on? Hoping to get some practice in on models soon before I get a stupid amount of kickstarter stuff this summer... I don't know what is expensive for you, but the go-to is the Badger Patriot 105, as noted in the airbrush post of the OP. It does cost about as much as the cheapo compressor + 3 airbrush sets from Amazon/ebay, though, so it can be a tough sell for anyone new to airbrushing. If you want something that's got a good rep but isn't as well-known, the Sparmax SP-35 is pretty decent too. It has a smaller needle size so is easier to get finer detail out of it (not that it's hard to do with the 105 if you drop the pressure down), but can also blast out good amounts of paint for basecoating, priming, vehicles, etc. I've started doing video reviews of model books and other stuff, will be moving on to tools and things as well - this is the Ammo book 'Color Modulation & Technique', which is a pretty good book for learning zenithal, color modulation, panel-by-panel and spotlight painting techniques: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7soyzX7HRQ I also did an unboxing/unwrapping of a Forge World tank now that they're including a 'how to work with resin' guide with their bigger kits, the first half of this video is what a Forge World vehicle kit looks like and the second half is a rough guide to resin casting and pouring: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhDyNXZUb-o
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 13:52
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:Anyone with a patriot 105 mind detailing their cleaning routine? Mine keeps clogging up on me while priming with stynylrz no matter what my pressure seems to be or my between color cleaning ritual is. I run rubbing alcohol through it a couple times and then distilled water between colors, usually having to double it if I was spraying metallics, I pull out the needle and the tip and clean them with picks/brushes after each use, and every 3 uses or after I run varnish through it I disassemble it and soak the main housing, the whole front assembly and the needle (not the part with the spring) in a solution of 1/2 Simple Green 1/2 water for a day and then rinse/scrub everything out with cleaning brushes.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 17:38
|
|
|
Ilor posted:I have. Well, cardstock, not cardboard, but I think that's what you meant anyway. It works, but it's loving time consuming. OK for the one-off display mini I was making for a friend, totally a non-starter for an entire army. Even if you're on a serious budget, your time is probably better spent hustling on a streetcorner giving blowjobs to fat, hairy dudes and spending the money on resin bases. Plus, think of all that fat, hairy cock you'd be getting. The gently caress is wrong with you
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 17:54
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:For what it's worth, I was looking at that not long ago and opted for Mr. Dissolved Putty instead, since the latter seemed like it was easier to work with. As Bulbasaur says, it's not for sculpting, although you could probably do small things. Here's a video with someone using it so you can see the consistency: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-VKXeO7es4. cheers for this! Silhouette posted:The gently caress is wrong with you please dont kinkshame
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 17:55
|
|
|
Silhouette posted:The gently caress is wrong with you Card flagstones: not even once.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 18:01
|
|
|
I've made floor tiles out of plasticard. Cardboard seems like it wouldn't work so well (although really thick cardboard like you'd use for a matte for your pictures would be ok). For flagstones though, I think sculpting them from putty would work better because then you can get some nice texturing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 18:16
|
|
|
Quest Jefferson posted:I run rubbing alcohol through it a couple times and then distilled water between colors, usually having to double it if I was spraying metallics, I pull out the needle and the tip and clean them with picks/brushes after each use, and every 3 uses or after I run varnish through it I disassemble it and soak the main housing, the whole front assembly and the needle (not the part with the spring) in a solution of 1/2 Simple Green 1/2 water for a day and then rinse/scrub everything out with cleaning brushes. Thanks, I wonder if my problem is that instead of using rubbing alcohol I have just been running slightly diluted simple green through between colors. Will give that a shot as the rest you are saying is pretty much what I do.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 18:43
|
|
|
indigoe posted:Here is my third mini. I had some problem with the paint not sticking on the edge of the dress on the back, and I think the contrast can be pushed on the blade. Overall I'm happy how it turned out and it's good to see improvement compared to the first two I said it about your last model too but that's really impressive stuff for your 2nd/3rd model, excellent brush control as well as not being afraid to paint eyes that early on. Also good work on the nice smooth paint as well as the tidy layering and shading too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 18:50
|
|
|
So I ordered a can of Testors Dullcote and a can of their Glosscote. Apparently the cans have been changed and now are identical??? It says "Spray Lacquer" on both of them. Both of them have a sticker saying "1260 Dullcote", then the maybe-Glosscote one has another sticker over that labeling it "Clear Glosscote". What the hell?
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 19:19
|
|
|
The difference (as of a few months ago when I bought mine) should be that Dullcote's lid is matte, whereas Glosscote's lid is glossy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 19:25
|
|
|
wdarkk posted:So I ordered a can of Testors Dullcote and a can of their Glosscote. Apparently the cans have been changed and now are identical??? Just test them on some cardboard and see which one's which, then mark the can somehow.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 19:46
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:Anyone with a patriot 105 mind detailing their cleaning routine? Mine keeps clogging up on me while priming with stynylrz no matter what my pressure seems to be or my between color cleaning ritual is. I missed this one... I'm on my phone but I think there's a general color change video in the OP. I used to thin my Stynlrez down about 2:1 with water, which works great in my Patriot, but I am trying to switch to using it unthinned, which requires higher pressure. But for general cleaning: to get rid of dry tip, I have a toothbrush (with cut-down bristles) that I keep in a tub of water, and I scrub the tip now and then. For color swaps I rinse with water a couple of times and for cleaning during a painting session I just use water again, thinner if it's dried on during the painting session and cellulose thinner if there's a clog that just won't shift, or if I've left paint in overnight. When I'm finished I pull out the needle and nozzle to clean. Quest Jefferson posted:I run rubbing alcohol through it a couple times and then distilled water between colors, usually having to double it if I was spraying metallics, I pull out the needle and the tip and clean them with picks/brushes after each use, and every 3 uses or after I run varnish through it I disassemble it and soak the main housing, the whole front assembly and the needle (not the part with the spring) in a solution of 1/2 Simple Green 1/2 water for a day and then rinse/scrub everything out with cleaning brushes. Everyone has their own methods they like, but to me this is way too much cleaning and different liquids to bother with. Plain water and thinner is plenty to have on hand, I think.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 22:00
|
|
|
Anyone ever bought any Avatars of War miniatures? I just grabbed a box of KoW skellies and saw some Avatars stuff online that looks pretty bad rear end, just wondering if size wise they'd blend in or not. http://www.avatars-of-war.com/eng/web/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=129&Itemid=53&armycode=Undead
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 22:34
|
|
|
richyp posted:Anyone ever bought any Avatars of War miniatures? I have a couple of them but I haven't taken them out of the package. Would a picture of the blister next to a bones blister tickle your fancy?
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 22:35
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I have a couple of them but I haven't taken them out of the package. Would a picture of the blister next to a bones blister tickle your fancy? Thanks for the offer, I think I have my answer though as they're shipped with 25mm bases so they should be perfect. Looking at their website they seem to be pitching them as alternatives for Like these guys:    Senior Beserker vs FyreSlayer. Even the name is more badass.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 22:48
|
|
|
I use that Shaman with some GW orks for a Frostgrave crew and they match perfectly. Might be a little large for Mantic orks since I think those are smaller. I have some of the KoW skellies and the Shaman dwarfs them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 23:48
|
|
|
"Gotrek, as sculpted by Felix"
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 01:17
|
|
|
How do you fine gentlegoons paint search lights and headlamps?
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 02:01
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:How do you fine gentlegoons paint search lights and headlamps? I usually just painted them a solid white, with yellow ink over it and then blacking out any metal lines across the bulb. You could use any color ink, really, or even a wash or glaze if you don't have any inks. Alternately, you could airbrush them. That can range anywhere between subtle to overblown, depending on how intense you want the glow to be.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 03:29
|
|
|
Speaking of airbrushes, I finally got one - it's a cheap model sold at a local hardware store, but it'll get me started. The downside is that a friend tried to spray some GW paints, thinned down, through it, and the fucker immediately clogged up - there were these chunks/grains of thicker, half-dried paint in there and those immediately clogged up the mechanics. So for those of you who use an airbrush, is there any particular line of paints you recommend using with an airbrush? I'm fine with GW paints and washes when I use a brush, but I'd rather not have my airbrush keep clogging because of lovely GW cans. I'd preferably like a line with shades and colors close to existing GW colors - I heard that Forge World does airbrush paints nowadays, are those any good?
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 07:02
|
|
|
More pissing about with OSL. These guys are designed go with the torch-bearer I painted earlier.    And posed with their opponent;  
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 07:44
|
|
|
Drake_263 posted:So for those of you who use an airbrush, is there any particular line of paints you recommend using with an airbrush? The normal GW paints aren't designed for airbrushing so the pigment particles aren't small enough and clog up very easily, as you've seen. Any airbrush ready paint will do but you'll still have to thin it for the air pressure and needle size you use.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 08:35
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:More pissing about with OSL. These guys are designed go with the torch-bearer I painted earlier. These are great, are you going to make a diorama?
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 09:18
|
|
|
richyp posted:These are great, are you going to make a diorama? I'll probably make a scenic base for them, but not a full diorama. Also been painting these little things, some of my friend's spare Dystopian Wars ships.  
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 11:31
|
|
|
Yellow = the worst 
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 15:17
|
|
|
richyp posted:Anyone ever bought any Avatars of War miniatures? I bought a Vampire Counts Warhammer army on eBay a couple years back. It came with the Necromancer and the Vampire Countess. If I remember, they match the scale of GW's 28mm models pretty well. I can take a picture next to some skeletons or something for scale if it'll help.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 17:43
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:Yellow = the worst Nah that's some best yellow
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 17:54
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:This is a question I already know an answer to, but more answers would be good. For smoothing significant divots in flat surfaces, what do people use? I'm using ProCreate to fill in the bulk of it, and then Mr. Dissolved Putty over top to create an easily-sandable surface that I can get really smooth. Is there a better way? This sounds way better then what I'm doing, had a lot of issues with sanding thin putty in transistion areas. Got to get som of that Mr. DP
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 19:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 20:03 |
|
|
HardCoil posted:This sounds way better then what I'm doing, had a lot of issues with sanding thin putty in transistion areas. Got to get som of that Mr. DP As the OP indicates, make sure to have a face mask cuz Mr. Dissolved Putty is pretty smelly. I mentioned it in a separate post, but if you're USian, this is a good place to get it: http://www.usagundamstore.com/. You can get it on Amazon through import shops, but the shipping is brutal.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 19:49
|
|