|
Put your tires under it with you in case it DOES fall.
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 00:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 18:54 |
|
|
My husband was driving our 2013 Ford Focus to work today and when he turned on the heater he heard a deep pitched vibrating from inside the dash, which got louder as he raised the speed. On the drive home the sound was louder. I looked online and saw a few suggestions that it might be a leaf or some other debris inside the blower motor and to check it out and clear any obstructions. First, I am not sure how to get to the blower motor and whether or not I should tackle this. Second, could it be something else?
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 01:47
|
|
|
I'm replacing shot strut bearings on a 10 year old Mazda 3. I am just going to use a pre-assembled unit so I don't need a spring compressor given the age it makes sense to me. Anything else I should plan to swap while I have it apart?
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 02:07
|
|
|
Walked posted:I'm replacing shot strut bearings on a 10 year old Mazda 3. I am just going to use a pre-assembled unit so I don't need a spring compressor given the age it makes sense to me. Check the bushings and sway bar links. They may look ok or the rubber all shot and falling apart. Get an alignment afterwards.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 02:43
|
|
|
Not that I'm buying, but are there any cars left these days that use a normal goddamned $1.99 hardware store key instead of some giant digital plastic thing that costs $300 if it dies?
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 07:02
|
|
|
White Noise Marine posted:2014 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, v8 5.7L hemi. There's probably a process that you need to go through to re-sync your fob with the car.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 07:07
|
|
|
Javid posted:Not that I'm buying, but are there any cars left these days that use a normal goddamned $1.99 hardware store key instead of some giant digital plastic thing that costs $300 if it dies? Some Kia models used a standard key as late as the 2013 model year. Looks like the Chevy Spark also used a regular key for 2013. Though a good locksmith can duplicate a lot of transponder keys for a hell of a lot less than $300. I know my car has a plain key, but it's a 2006 (and was only produced until the 2007 model year). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:18 on Mar 22, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 09:09
|
|
|
We use an absolutely base model frontier and versa note at work, both use standard keys. And have manual locks and windows.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 10:09
|
|
|
Javid posted:Not that I'm buying, but are there any cars left these days that use a normal goddamned $1.99 hardware store key instead of some giant digital plastic thing that costs $300 if it dies? Most use a $10 key that, if you have both originals, you can program yourself. The programming is usually the expensive part.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 15:56
|
|
|
spog posted:There's probably a process that you need to go through to re-sync your fob with the car. Everything I've read said they don't need to be reprogrammed, at least for just a battery switch.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 15:59
|
|
|
I have a 2013 Impala with a start problem as of last Friday. Engine doesn't always want to kick on when I turn the key, all the lights and electronics turn on. Occasionally after keeping the key turned, the engine will come on, but no guarantee of that. Clock resets to 12:00 whenever these ignition problems are happening. A jump start fixes the problem, but the battery seems to be losing charge over time when measuring the voltage over time. Checking it last night, was 13.12, this morning, 13.02. After searching online for possible issues, checked the water in the battery--was very low, so filled that back up. As of this morning, hooked up a charger and got 13.95. The battery otherwise looks fine, the connections aren't corroded or anything. I keep seeing posts saying it might be the starter. If I'm lucky, refilling the water fixed it, but I'll let everyone know if it happens again.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 17:45
|
|
|
OneThousandMonkeys posted:I have a 2013 Impala with a start problem as of last Friday. Engine doesn't always want to kick on when I turn the key, all the lights and electronics turn on. Occasionally after keeping the key turned, the engine will come on, but no guarantee of that. Clock resets to 12:00 whenever these ignition problems are happening. First thing is to replace your shot battery. I didn't know they even sold new cars with unsealed batteries anymore. Who knew.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 17:55
|
|
|
Possibly a bad ground.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 18:14
|
|
|
White Noise Marine posted:Everything I've read said they don't need to be reprogrammed, at least for just a battery switch. Re-sync or reprogrammed? Cause if you had a dying battery, I can imagine you triggering it enough times to get it out of sync while trying to unlock the doors It's usually something like start the car with the key, then press the unlock button
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 18:42
|
|
|
This is a stupid question based on a stupid idea: getting as much low-end torque out of an NA 4 cylinder VW 2.0L 8v engine. I've been very bored at work and have done a lot of reading down the rabbit hole on this, and I'm curious about the effects of a torque-targeted cam along with a shorter intake manifold would have on my engine? I have plans on rebuilding the engine so the time to put in a different cam would be at then. I have only one or twice had the revs above 4k, and really never felt the need to get it up any higher because the rest of the top-end is so gutless that I just change gears. Sounds like a fun thing to try out, especially since the new cam is only $50.
scuz fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Mar 22, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 22:38
|
|
|
Need some advice. 1998 Civic EX, 268k miles, original clutch. The car burns through oil to the tune of a quart every 600 miles. The coolant level dropped significantly in the last week when I last checked it and there is evidence of a bad head gasket (milky residue on the inside of the oil cap, but the oil is still in good shape), front brakes need some work again, the muffler needs to be replaced, valve seals should probably be done to help the oil consumption... I'm not sure if I can tackle doing all this work in the near future so if I pay the shop to do it I'm probably looking at $1500 (I'll do the brakes myself, I'll just have them do the engine/exhasut work), and if the clutch decides to take a poo poo soon that's another ~$800 or so. This car has historically cost us $150/mo in maintenance and all the work it needs will add to that significantly. I'm leaning towards doing all the work myself (except the exhaust) and save the money. I can carpool to work so even if it takes me a week or two I won't be too inconvenienced. The gently caress do I do with this thing?
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 00:58
|
|
|
Well milky residue can happen under normal operation; blowby gases get into the head and the water vapor in it condenses,, and it can they with any oil that's just sitting (like oil vapors on the inside of the cap). Not that I'm ruling out a head gasket, just that that particular thing isn't an indicator. The coolant loss definitely points to a head gasket, provided you aren't seeing leaks anywhere (long shot, check your passenger footwell to rule out a heater core leak). If you commit... well, the head gasket is a fairly straightforward job, if somewhat in-depth. Don't expect it to do anything for your oil burning though; Hondas of that vintage are known for that, and yours has a lot of miles on it, your rings are likely shot. Replacing those gets a lot easier if you have the head off already, but if you don't feel confident gapping rings or determining if it needs to be honed, leave that part for a professional and just deal with the oil loss. IDK if you can replace the clutch on those without yanking the whole engine, if you can that makes the job a good bit easier. Exhaust stuff is pretty easy too, that's a no-brainer. I'd get a straightedge, pull the head off, and check both the head and block to make sure they're absolutely flat/not warped. If so you're pretty much good, if not you'll need to send whatever's bad out to a machine shop to have it ground.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 01:26
|
|
|
I got the 2. I'm in love with it. Will post a thread soon.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 02:12
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Well milky residue can happen under normal operation; blowby gases get into the head and the water vapor in it condenses,, and it can they with any oil that's just sitting (like oil vapors on the inside of the cap). Not that I'm ruling out a head gasket, just that that particular thing isn't an indicator. Glass and sandpaper is feasible but god bless you if you have the patience. That old of a car isn't worth most peoples time but if you can get another car and get to it as you time worth fixing to have a beater. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyKN52HD6RU
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 02:19
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 02:59
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:IDK if you can replace the clutch on those without yanking the whole engine, if you can that makes the job a good bit easier. Exhaust stuff is pretty easy too, that's a no-brainer. Still talking about a late 90s Civic right? Yeah, you can drop the trans without yanking the engine, though IIRC you may have to remove a motor mount to get access to all of the bellhousing bolts.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 04:36
|
|
|
Extra posted:I took the transponder out of my key and bolted it next to my ignition switch so I could make a bunch of hardware store copies of it Good luck dealing with insurance if it ever gets stolen!
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 06:21
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Good luck dealing with insurance if it ever gets stolen! I was gonna make this post earlier thanks for making it for me
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 06:27
|
|
|
2006 Ford Focus ZX3, base (1.6L?) Duratec engine, automatic. 87-thousandish miles. Two questions: 1: I think it's been shifting extra-dumb lately (last month I guess). Refusing to drop gears and give me some acceleration after turning a corner, etc. I know from the carfax that it's had regular oil changes its entire life, but there's nothing at all about transmission fluid. So I don't know whether it's ever been changed ever, and I've heard some Focuses don't have an ATF dipstick; no idea whether mine does, I haven't had a chance to pop the hood in daylight lately. 2: When I get up to 50mph and above, the car gets kind of ...swervy. It'll just randomly pull slightly left or right on level, smooth, asphalt roads. Nothing I can't correct, but clearly it shouldn't be doing this and it didn't before this winter. Half of my commute is on "good" (ie they get graded every few weeks so they're not super washboarded) dirt roads, and I'm sure this is bad for things. What parts are my likely culprits and how can I check them in my driveway?
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 06:28
|
|
|
My 2010 Subaru Outback has been making a clicking noise from the center console for the last few weeks, seemingly from the stick shift. I can only ever really notice it doing it when it's in park and if I'm not pressing the brake. I think it may also do it rarely when driving, but it's starting to do it a lot when parked. I read that other Subaru's have something similar, but those all seem to do it when driving. A video of it making the noise when parked
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 13:28
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Good luck dealing with insurance if it ever gets stolen!
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 14:55
|
|
|
Cage posted:How many people steal 12 year old ford focuses? Quite a few. Car theft is usually a target-of-opportunity event, not a high-value asset heist.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 15:33
|
|
|
spog posted:Re-sync or reprogrammed? Reprogrammed, I gave the resyncing a try, no luck. I'll give it a go on the one that died 15k miles ago, if I can't get it going I'll just deal with key entry for a while.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 17:01
|
|
|
Cage posted:How many people steal 12 year old ford focuses? Under a certain value a car isn't going to have much of a charge.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 17:15
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Good luck dealing with insurance if it ever gets stolen! I don't think insurance is going to be all like.. well sir/ma'am we noticed your shitbox was stolen and it MUST have been due to the fact that your transponder was taped to your steering column. if it's recovered and the adjuster pokes around and see it or even cares.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 18:11
|
|
|
It's when you go to do it and find a key already taped to the sensor ring inside the steering column...
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 18:48
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:I don't think insurance is going to be all like.. well sir/ma'am we noticed your shitbox was stolen and it MUST have been due to the fact that your transponder was taped to your steering column. They'll be curious when the car starts at all, and the owner still has all of his keys.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 18:49
|
|
|
White Noise Marine posted:Reprogrammed, I gave the resyncing a try, no luck. I'll give it a go on the one that died 15k miles ago, if I can't get it going I'll just deal with key entry for a while. Battery replacement and resyncing worked on the other key fob, thanks for the help guys.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 21:03
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 00:22
|
|
|
Extra posted:Duratec is a 2.0L if you're in ameriburgerland. Wow, I didn't realize transmission fluid lasted so long. And if I'm interpreting that bulletin correctly, I should just go get an alignment? I was concerned I'd have to have some junk replaced but I guess I'd hear that from the alignment shop anyway.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 00:39
|
|
|
That's where I'd start. It's probably the cheapest potential issue, too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 01:00
|
|
|
Should I buy this? https://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/5500672342.html Want something I can haul big things in and serve as a snow car when necessary. I hear this gen of 4runners are kind of rolly and not great in collisions but other than that I don't know much about them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 01:07
|
|
|
blk posted:Should I buy this? I am always very cautious about cars that get a ton of work done and then get sold. That V6 will have constant head gasket issues, too. On the other hand, an SBC fits mighty nice in that engine bay...
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 02:34
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Looks like an inline fuel filter. If it really is temporary, you could probably get away with bypassing it, but a replacement would only be a few bucks. Just wanted to pop back in and say thanks for this! I should have got that it was a fuel filter (would have if I'd seen it from the side for sure), I picked up a wee one for my motorbike a few months ago. The auto parts store is on the other end of town so I didn't get out there until today. Forgot to bring old filter with me but it was easy enough finding the same thing on the shelf, as well as some tubing. I'd checked the old filter and the filter itself was fine (I figured might as well replace it anyhow), was one of the two soft hose connections that must have been bad. I was praying it wasn't the one to the carbie as that would have been a huge pain in the butt to access, fortunately it appears that it was just the short length of soft hose between the hard line to the petrol tank and the filter itself that was bad. Getting everything back in was mostly easy, except putting the old hose on the new filter (one going to the carbie, which I'd really like to replace too, but eff that effort), it did not want to go past the little bulge on the plastic barb. I was finally able to slide it on by using a loogie as lubricant. Is running as well as it was before (sans petrol leak), although unfortunately the tenant downstairs's girlfriend parked right behind my bumper so I can't take it for a test drive right now 
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 07:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 18:54 |
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:That V6 will have constant head gasket issues, too. Most of the power of the 4 cylinder (if it hasn't burnt a valve or popped a head gasket yet), with the MPG of a V8! But seriously, listen to Mr Wiggles, don't get an 88-95 4Runner V6 (or Tacoma V6, or T100 V6, same year range) unless you're really good at replacing head gaskets. The 3VZ-E is to be avoided, it's easily one of the worst engines Toyota ever put out. Very little power (145-150 hp, a bump over the 22R-E, but the weight difference between the engines mostly offsets the extra power over the 22R-E), very thirsty, and they have a healthy appetite for both head gaskets and valves. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Mar 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 07:24
|
|