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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Oh for gently caress's sake.
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Mar 26, 2016 05:08
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Slavvy posted:SV? XJ600. I think it's common across the big 4 though, at least in most non-supersport models in the 90s anyhow.
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Mar 26, 2016 05:12
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So what's the lowdown on upgraded exhausts providing more power? Some places say without a remap they actually make things worse. My understanding is that off-the-shelf bikes run very lean, so adding a new exhaust with higher flow can add power, but this is restricted by the lean fueling. Only after a re-map can you get the most out of the new exhaust.
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Mar 26, 2016 05:35
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Oh for gently caress's sake. The real reason funny front ends are good: they all use shocks 
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Mar 26, 2016 06:31
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Barnsy posted:So what's the lowdown on upgraded exhausts providing more power? Some places say without a remap they actually make things worse. It's a very long, long post that I'll cut short here by just saying - yes, any aftermarket exhaust without the correct fueling adjustments is making your bike run worse on anything under EPA restrictions.
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Mar 26, 2016 07:39
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Barnsy posted:So what's the lowdown on upgraded exhausts providing more power? Some places say without a remap they actually make things worse. Down the page here you can see a summary of a feb 08 test done by the Germans at motorrad news that says mostly new cans are worse. But, it's worth noting that if you're really looking for performance it's an easy place to lose weight (also worth noting, if you clock in at 290 +fedora like most goons then it's not the bike) and it usually sounds better which is how I've generally seen it justified.
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Mar 26, 2016 13:44
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Barnsy posted:So what's the lowdown on upgraded exhausts providing more power? Some places say without a remap they actually make things worse. A bike without an O2 sensor but with a higher-flow silencer will run even leaner, due to lack of back-pressure, and that's a recipe for toasting your exhaust valves or possibly even just grenading your engine. Unless the bike's fueling was way out of whack to start with, running leaner is very unlikely to increase power. The whole point is that the less back-pressure, the more air (and hence fuel) you can get into the cylinder on each stroke and that's where you get the power increase. If you're not putting in more fuel, then you're not likely to see more power if the bike was set up right to start with. Now more advanced EFI systems *can* cope with that lean running and will liberate more power without a remap but even then it's not that simple - some bikes use the exhaust geometry, including the silencer, to help scavenge exhaust gases (in the same way a 2-stroke expansion chamber works but less so) and pissing that about can make things worse. (Of course even that is a simplification because generally engines are running a little lean of perfect and so just a remap on it's own can increase power, and also catalytic converters and power valves throw even more complication into the mix. The general point though is that no, without some sort of change to the fueling, the loudest exhaust in the world isn't going to add any more power and could end up being full of fairly important engine bits)
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Mar 26, 2016 14:38
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My new-to-me SV1k has a big M4 can on it, and it's just sort of floating at the moment. The lack of reinforcement kind of worries me. Is there somewhere I can begin looking for a mount that would keep it firmly in place, maybe to the passenger footpeg mount?
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Mar 26, 2016 18:44
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Tuono has been reluctant to start lately... Went to start this morning and it just could not get there. I had the little fake choke lever open all the way as usual, and cracked the throttle. It would engage and then puff some smoke out the pipe and then fail to turn over. After a couple rounds of this I probably flooded the engine and now it does this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsSxGZzaDVo Do I need to drag it to a shop to have a look? I'm sure if I let it chill for a bit I could get it limping back to how it was starting earlier in the week-- but I'd like to address the root issue if possible
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Mar 26, 2016 19:16
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Razzled posted:Tuono has been reluctant to start lately... Went to start this morning and it just could not get there. I had the little fake choke lever open all the way as usual, and cracked the throttle. It would engage and then puff some smoke out the pipe and then fail to turn over. After a couple rounds of this I probably flooded the engine and now it does this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsSxGZzaDVo It's not exactly 0 degree Celsius out, is it?
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Mar 26, 2016 19:26
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Do you have a battery tender?
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Mar 26, 2016 19:49
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Yeah I tended it yesterday to full, it's also a brand new battery.
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Mar 26, 2016 19:54
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Probably flooded and only time will mend it. It's happened with my falco a couple times and I've waited it out
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Mar 26, 2016 19:59
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Razzled posted:I had the little fake choke lever open all the way as usual, and cracked the throttle. Are you always doing this? Cause uh, totally different fuelling system but I know if I fully engage choke and crack the throttle at the same time it floods and kills it immediately when either one alone would have started it.
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Mar 26, 2016 20:03
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Soooo I'm trying to start this bike. I replaced all the fuel lines and cleaned the carbs and all that extremely fun stuff, but when I try to start it, I get no fuel moving through the lines. The petcock has no OFF setting, just ON, RES, and PRIME, and I've got the choke open. I know starting for the first time you need to let the float bowls fill a bit, but the fuel just isn't leaving the tank (or at least it doesn't look like it). The fuel lines are translucent. It's an '88 KATANA for which I paid $400, and it has 4 carbs that are sitting there mocking me as they seemingly drink no fuel at all. Any suggestions? Unplug the vacuum hose from the carb and suck on it? Take off the tank and rig a temp fuel bottle? Sell the plastics and the parts till I make all my money back?
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Mar 26, 2016 20:10
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Dumb question, did you set the petcock to PRIME? If you did and it's still not working, test it by pulling the hose and applying some negative pressure to try and draw fuel through. If it doesn't want to come out then your petcock is hosed and you're out $60-70 for a replacement. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Mar 26, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 21:00
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Renaissance Robot posted:Dumb question, did you set the petcock to PRIME? Yeah, I did, for a while. I may have to take apart the petcock. Luckily I didn't put too much fuel in the tank (I did put enough so that it can draw from the reserve or the main straws). I will try different methods of drawing fuel out of the thing after I get back from Chris's house. (the other Chris)
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Mar 26, 2016 21:08
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My Triumph Scrambler sidecar rig's rear suspension is having issues. There's a lot of stiction/static friction on the rear, especially if it's been sitting for a while. I can almost get my entire weight on the foot peg before it feels like something breaks loose again. Then it's fine, until it sits without moving for a certain amount of time. That amount of time used to be weeks, now it's hours or minutes. I took the swingarm out and inspected the bearings, bushings and swingarm... axle for lack of a better word. Everything looked okay, the needle bearing was a little resistant but not gritty, so I cleaned and regreased it. After reassembly of the swingarm, before installing the shocks, I swept the swingarm through its entire range of travel and it was very, very smooth, no binding. Also checked for play and didn't feel any. Shocks back on, bike back on the ground and it's doing the same thing. The only thing that hasn't been looked at are my shocks - could I have destroyed an inner bushing and it's binding? No oil is leaking out but the stiction is really bad. They are Works Performance shocks with ~15k miles, never been serviced. Anything else I should look at?
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Mar 26, 2016 21:43
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Skier posted:My Triumph Scrambler sidecar rig's rear suspension is having issues. There's a lot of stiction/static friction on the rear, especially if it's been sitting for a while. I can almost get my entire weight on the foot peg before it feels like something breaks loose again. Then it's fine, until it sits without moving for a certain amount of time. That amount of time used to be weeks, now it's hours or minutes. I'd have looked at the shocks *way* before stripping the swingarm. Sounds like the valves are knackered to me, or possibly just the oil has gone to poo poo.
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Mar 26, 2016 21:58
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I've been reading all of the motorcycle books suggested on this forum lately. It seems like some of the advice in the books contradict each other. Is it best to apply maintenance throttle simultaneously while leaning the bike or only when steering is completed? Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Mar 27, 2016 |
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Mar 27, 2016 22:33
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Re: exhaust chat Does remapping apply even when just upgrading stock exhaust can to slip-on, or is it only recommend for when the entire system is upgraded? I've been looking at a slip-on Yoshi to replace the gargantuan stock pipe on my '06 GSXR, but have been putting it off because I know nothing about remapping, and the local shop wants an arm, leg and my first born to do it.
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Mar 27, 2016 22:38
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Zipperelli. posted:Re: exhaust chat Check what the exhaust manufacturer says. The silencer (and the cat, on newer bikes) are easily the biggest influence on the exhaust system's performance so new ones can be anywhere from no change to "Say good bye to your eardrums and your exhaust valves".
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Mar 27, 2016 23:25
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Partial Octopus posted:I've been reading all of the motorcycle books suggested on this forum lately. It seems like some of the advice in the books contradict each other. There should never be a time when you aren't giving either throttle or brake input. As soon as you're off the brakes, you should be giving some kind of throttle.
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Mar 27, 2016 23:58
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The time has come for new tires and some chain maintenance on my Tuono v4. I have a HF motorcycle jack left over from my 690, but it doesn't look like it's gonna play nice with the underside/exhaust of the Aprilia. What should I be looking for in a swingarm/front fork stand set? Are eBay cheapo sets i.e. this or this a waste of time? Stuff on Aprilia-specific sites are $$$$ to the point where I might as ride the bike in to have them pull and remount the wheels themselves and pay the extra ~$25/tire.
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Mar 28, 2016 00:31
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Koruthaiolos posted:There should never be a time when you aren't giving either throttle or brake input. As soon as you're off the brakes, you should be giving some kind of throttle. *loses control of stopped bike on MSF course, throttle pinned, flinging it into the group of other riders, several casualties ensue* Instructor: "What the the gently caress happened?! Why did you do that??"  : "I read on the Internet that as soon as I was off the brakes I should be giving throttle input."
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Mar 28, 2016 01:21
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:The time has come for new tires and some chain maintenance on my Tuono v4. I have a HF motorcycle jack left over from my 690, but it doesn't look like it's gonna play nice with the underside/exhaust of the Aprilia. What should I be looking for in a swingarm/front fork stand set? Are eBay cheapo sets i.e. this or this a waste of time? Stuff on Aprilia-specific sites are $$$$ to the point where I might as ride the bike in to have them pull and remount the wheels themselves and pay the extra ~$25/tire. You had the cash for a Tuono v4, just buy a god drat set of pitbull stands already.
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Mar 28, 2016 03:15
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Z3n posted:It's a very long, long post that I'll cut short here by just saying - yes, any aftermarket exhaust without the correct fueling adjustments is making your bike run worse on anything under EPA restrictions. Thanks for confirming my suspicions. So presumably, all those torque/power curves advertised by exhaust constructors are done after a remap?
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Mar 28, 2016 03:43
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Linedance posted:*loses control of stopped bike on MSF course, throttle pinned, flinging it into the group of other riders, several casualties ensue*
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Mar 28, 2016 04:12
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Barnsy posted:Thanks for confirming my suspicions. So presumably, all those torque/power curves advertised by exhaust constructors are done after a remap? I'd always assume that any torque/power curve advertised by a third-party manufacturer has a 20% chance of representing a stock bike with their modification in a perfect state of tune, and an 80% chance of being entirely made up. Half the time the graphs don't even have numbers.
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Mar 28, 2016 04:23
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Partial Octopus posted:I've been reading all of the motorcycle books suggested on this forum lately. It seems like some of the advice in the books contradict each other. Arrows in a quiver, man.
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Mar 28, 2016 06:31
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Partial Octopus posted:I've been reading all of the motorcycle books suggested on this forum lately. It seems like some of the advice in the books contradict each other. Frankly I tried that and it just doesn't feel right and tends to unsettle the bike. I'm a track noob though so :/ Based on looking at too much racing footage, I'd say after the turn in is when most get their throttle on.
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Mar 28, 2016 06:34
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Brake and select exit gear, look in, tip in, throttle on. was the process I was told.
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Mar 28, 2016 12:59
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Slow look lean roll - that was what I was taught at the msf. Always either on throttle or brakes is what I was taught at the track.
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Mar 28, 2016 13:39
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It's also going to depend on the bike you're on. The engine braking on my DRZ is like hitting the rear brake.
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Mar 28, 2016 15:30
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Yeah and the Ulysses will coast forever. Had to get used to that.
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Mar 28, 2016 15:41
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Maintenance throttle after braking is completed. Not necessarily acceleration, but at least feeding it enough to keep the suspension balanced. But yeah, depends on the bike and the curve.
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Mar 28, 2016 16:08
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ZRX engine braking drat near pulls your arm out of the socket.
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Mar 29, 2016 02:19
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Chichevache posted:ZRX engine braking drat near pulls your arm out of the socket. I thought this and then I rode an RC51.
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Mar 29, 2016 02:46
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It's really good on my FZ. Like I don't even need to use the brakes except for stop lights and stuff. And not even really then
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Mar 29, 2016 03:02
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A MIRACLE posted:It's really good on my FZ. Like I don't even need to use the brakes except for stop lights and stuff. And not even really then Yeah, on mine I usually would just tap the rear brakes enough to switch the brake light on so inattentive drivers behind me didn't plow into my rear end, unless I was coming to an actual stop.
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Mar 29, 2016 04:41
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