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SquadronROE posted:Also: what are some common performance upgrades for naked bikes? Suspension.
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Apr 11, 2016 18:58
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Cool, that's kind of what I figured. Already investing in more training, and just riding more (and more slowly) while concentrating on reading the road and anticipating uneven and gravel. gently caress gravel.
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Apr 11, 2016 19:34
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I used to run Bridgestone BT45s until I got a free set of Kenda K671s. They're much cheaper, and not high-performance by any means, but I actually like them a lot better for wet pavement and looser stuff. The lugs are a little wider, and feel much better on gravel than the BT45s. I've done a good handful of dirt miles on them. They wear a bit more evenly so far as well. So yeah, tires are a good upgrade, and don't skimp (because they're one of the more important safety features), but good capable tires are also not necessarily really expensive.
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Apr 11, 2016 19:50
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SquadronROE posted:So I did some riding over the weekend, beautiful week for it. However the twisty roads around here can be fairly uneven at points, and it got a little loose at one point. fwiw, I really like better/appropriate suspension.
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Apr 11, 2016 20:07
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I've been "avoiding" buying a bike all my driving life. I figured I'd die on one earlier on (and I would have, guaranteed) and stuck to living the ricer life. I've gotten a bit older and I drive like a grandma now. I still have a quick car but its decidedly tame compared to previous cars and finally for the first time in my life I could live without it. But the desire for a motorcycle has never went away. Its actually gotten stronger for whatever reason. I couldn't find a general new-idiots motorcycle thread to shame all my decisions and most of the links in the OP are dead so I thought I might run my plan by you all here and see if I'm doing it wrong. I plan to take a ~15 hour long basic rider course. Here in Texas (im in Dallas) that appears to give me my license as well. I look forward to this as perhaps it will let me know if really do want to get into this, and plus I really have little to no experience on a motorcycle save for a few short joyrides around parking lots over the years. Im looking at buying a cheap 250-300 cc bike as of now along the lines of a CB300F, but a used comparable. I am 6'2" and 210 lbs though... I'm not sure how easy it will be to find a cheap bike I like to start with. Gear I'm looking around and it seems like I'm spending a shitload on this. I have quite a bit of apprehension with gear. I will always wear everything, but I don't want to be sweating my balls off to the point where I don't want to ride anywhere. If it all works out I do intend to ride a lot. We'll see how I feel about that when everything pans out, but I'm pretty stoked about the idea of it all. I'd love to not give a poo poo about my car for once and have some beater. I've also been working and modifying cars ever since my first and I think I'm going to really dig working on a motorcycle. Way cheaper, easier, lot of the fun without (as much) cussing. Does this sound good or did I miss something or have priorities all wrong
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Apr 11, 2016 20:40
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THE DOG HOUSE posted:
It sounds great! 15 hours of training seems amazing for the US, I wouldn't be too shy about looking for bigger bikes as well. Go to shops and sit on stuff to check out what ergonomics you like. Also read up on summer/mesh gear. It isn't that expensive and can be a nice addition to the regular gear - or even your regular gear itself, climate permitting.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:18
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THE DOG HOUSE posted:I've been "avoiding" buying a bike all my driving life. I figured I'd die on one earlier on (and I would have, guaranteed) and stuck to living the ricer life. The Basic Rider Course is worth taking, before you've picked out a bike, and a lot of gear. Their gear requirements are a helmet, gloves, long-sleeved shirt, sturdy pants (I wore a pair of cheap cargos), and over the ankle footwear. Hi-tops and work boots get in fine. You're going to get 10 different opinions on helmets, so I'll just suggest trying some sub-$200 full-face options. Just go somewhere, and try them on in person. Having an ill-fitting helmet biting a hole in your forehead sucks, when you're trying to absorb a lot of info and advice from your rider coach. Prepare to hate the BRC bikes. Use the experience to help you learn what you want in ergos, then go sit on some other bikes. Listen to your back and hips, with your hands on the grips, and feet on the pegs. Your best first bike will fall in a delta of cheapness, comfort, and attractiveness. Something you're not afraid of scratching up, you enjoy being on, and just looking at it makes you want to hop on. That will all make your early riding days much easier. That's just one new rider's $.02.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:33
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THE DOG HOUSE posted:im in Dallas Go by Moto Liberty and get a helmet fitted. Probably don't spend too much on your first helmet as added price just adds comfort/features more than safety assuming you're getting a full face helmet and you can get that stuff later when you know what features you actually care about. Azzenco has a CBR250R he's been trying to sell for a while that might be worth looking at. Personally I went with more of a beater for my first bike just so I wouldn't be sad when it fell over but otherwise it's a good starter bike. I'd wait until you finish the BRC before buying any other gear/a bike just to make sure motorcycling's for you. Hit up the Dallas thread if you need someone to come look at bikes with you or have any questions or anything. It isn't super active right now but someone'll definitely be willing to go look at bikes with you.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:53
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Wow thanks for all that guys. In fact I forgot I needed to buy a helmet for the course I will definitely head to that shop, my head is pretty big. I live in Addison to boot so its right down the road. Thanks for the link as well although I doubt I'll be in a position where I want to buy anytime soon (not a whole lot of slots available for these course where I dont have to take time off). Looks pretty much right up my alley for what I wanted to spend though. Although it never occurred to me that there was financing available for cheaper bikes but it appears that there is, might give me a little more freedom to find something as comfortable to me as possible.
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Apr 11, 2016 22:12
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Always get a Buell Blast for your first bike. It builds character.
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Apr 11, 2016 22:48
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I want to upgrade the suspension on my bandit 1250 before my Austrian trip the beginning of July. I've decided to put some new progressive springs on my front forks (hyperpro) but I'm hemming on the rear. Is it fine to upgrade to a second hand rear shock, or is a new one just that much better? I don't feel like spending ~700 euro to change the rear suspension on a ~4000 euro bike.
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Apr 11, 2016 23:04
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THE DOG HOUSE posted:Wow thanks for all that guys. In fact I forgot I needed to buy a helmet for the course I will definitely head to that shop, my head is pretty big. I live in Addison to boot so its right down the road. Don't be afraid to go up to a 500-650 bike, either. If you're tall and reasonably strong, and find a 500 or a 650 that fits you better than a smaller displacement bike, go for it. The key is that you don't want to start with some super-heavy giant cc literbike. If you want to go there eventually, that's great, but learn on something dependable and reasonably easy to maintain at first to get your feet wet. I started with a Ninja 300 and I'm still riding it two years later. It's great for what I need it for. Next year I'm planning on getting a new bike, but I think back on all the people who told me to start with a bigger bike because I'd get "bored" so fast with a little 300. Honestly, I have a ton of fun with my little 300, and it goes around corners just fine.
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Apr 11, 2016 23:05
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SquadronROE posted:Always get a Buell Blast for your first bike. It builds character. Weeds out the weak. Lynza posted:Don't be afraid to go up to a 500-650 bike, either. If you're tall and reasonably strong, and find a 500 or a 650 that fits you better than a smaller displacement bike, go for it. The key is that you don't want to start with some super-heavy giant cc literbike. If you want to go there eventually, that's great, but learn on something dependable and reasonably easy to maintain at first to get your feet wet. Everything here is true as long as you remember that all displacements aren't created equal. In car terms it's like how a 3L BMW can make more power than a 350 chevy despite being half the size; you can get near on a litre displacement in cruisers that wouldn't hurt a fly, yet nobody on here will tell you a 600 supersport is a good idea for a first bike. Generally less cylinders = tamer and less fairings = slower (and cooler).
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Apr 11, 2016 23:59
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Slavvy posted:Weeds out the weak. Building on that, a Ptwin/thumper 650 will be pretty tame too.
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Apr 12, 2016 00:32
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A KLR would be a pretty manageable big dude learner bike. A big dude on here did just that in the last couple pages of this thread, I think.
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Apr 12, 2016 00:46
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Clitch posted:
Haha. Hopefully the class you take has more than one kind and lets you choose at the beginning. I got to ride a brand new Suzuki TU250 which was a great bike, but they also had a few old Kawasaki Eliminators which seemed designed specifically to make people not want to ever ride a cruiser. The Kawasakis were the only bikes that had to be repaired/switched out for a different bike during the class.
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Apr 12, 2016 01:46
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h...h-honda rebel.........
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Apr 12, 2016 01:50
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Dog Case posted:Suzuki TU250 which was a great bike, The hell's wrong with you M42 posted:h...h-honda rebel......... I'm going to imagine this was said as you crept slowly out from behind a cupboard door in an unlit room.
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Apr 12, 2016 01:59
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Anyone have experience with LiFePO4 batteries? It looks like Battery Tender brand ones (3 year warranty) are reasonably cheap (or I could get one from Advance Auto (1 year warranty) for around $105. The other options are just a cheapo Autozone battery for $58 (I think i have a $15 gift card) but it only has a 3 month warranty. Last option is a bike is a Bike Master Trugel battery (2 year warranty) for $68 online but is a gamble because it could have sat for over a year. For background I have a 2000 Triumph TT600 that doesn't get ridden very often so it would benefit from something that doesn't discharge that much. I live in Boston and only ride above 40F. Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 02:00
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Lithium batteries are all poo poo. Stay away unless you're racing and ABSOLUTELY NEED the weight advantage and don't care about replacing the thing every few months. Keep your lead-acid battery, get a Battery Tender Jr. for $15 and forget about it.
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Apr 12, 2016 02:11
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Dog Case posted:Haha. Hopefully the class you take has more than one kind and lets you choose at the beginning. I got to ride a brand new Suzuki TU250 which was a great bike, but they also had a few old Kawasaki Eliminators which seemed designed specifically to make people not want to ever ride a cruiser. The Kawasakis were the only bikes that had to be repaired/switched out for a different bike during the class.
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Apr 12, 2016 02:38
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M42 posted:h...h-honda rebel......... thats what mine was well i got to start out on a CB125T (the T stands for Trainer) which was dope but some goony gently caress on the rebel kept dropping the bike so they made us switch since mine was "easier" he still dropped it and quit the class at the end of day 1 but i was stuck with the rebel, which had some mysterious choke or vacuum leak issue and kept dying on me. and it was hard to steer because they put giant highway bars on it that scraped after a 20 degree lean angle. drat I'm still mad about that A MIRACLE fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 02:39
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Sooooo I need to get a new front brake master for my new-to-me '01 SV650, since the crash that got it to me for such a cheap price completely tore up the original master. I remember some people talking in here a while back about swapping master cyls from other bikes for upgrading from your stock masters, I don't suppose anyone who knows what they're talking about (zthreen?) knows off hand of some good factory master cylinders from other bikes that work well as an upgrade for an SV (is a 5/8" master a good size for an SV?) Trying to buy better than factory 'upgrades' for as many of the wrecked parts I have to replace on this bike, so if anyone knows of good donors for FMCs that are better than the stock master on a first gen SV that I can ebay cheaply, I'm  Otherwise I'll have to bite the bullet and get a Brembo MC for $$$$ 
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Apr 12, 2016 03:54
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So I just installed a new slip-on exhaust today. Super easy to do but I do have a couple questions. For reference I installed a Yoshimura R77 slip-on on to my 2011 ZX6R. Most instructional videos on how to install it made a point to show how the baffle is removable if you so desire to change the sound. However after inspecting the screw used to secure it, I noticed its spot welded in place, probably to deter people from removing it. Is this a sound emissions issue or something? Why would they give you easy access to it, advertise it as optional, then spot weld it in place? I guess if I really wanted get it out of there I can dremel the weld but I figured I'd find out some more info before I hosed around with it and possibly damaged the poo poo out of it. Another question. During the install process I had to remove some cables that connected a valve in my old exhaust to a small servo motor under my seat. An adapter was placed on top of the servo that then knocks into a bracket I had to install. What were those cables and motor for? Whats the point of the new adapter and bracket?
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Apr 12, 2016 06:03
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KARMA! posted:I want to upgrade the suspension on my bandit 1250 before my Austrian trip the beginning of July. I've decided to put some new progressive springs on my front forks (hyperpro) but I'm hemming on the rear. Is it fine to upgrade to a second hand rear shock, or is a new one just that much better? I don't feel like spending ~700 euro to change the rear suspension on a ~4000 euro bike. Have you checked out Wilbers or Hagon? http://www.wilbers-shop.de/ https://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk Wilbers gets into the €700s with hydraulic preload, don't know if you need that. Hagon is quite a bit cheaper.
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Apr 12, 2016 06:31
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HotCanadianChick posted:Sooooo I need to get a new front brake master for my new-to-me '01 SV650, since the crash that got it to me for such a cheap price completely tore up the original master. I remember some people talking in here a while back about swapping master cyls from other bikes for upgrading from your stock masters, I don't suppose anyone who knows what they're talking about (zthreen?) knows off hand of some good factory master cylinders from other bikes that work well as an upgrade for an SV (is a 5/8" master a good size for an SV?) You can use an R6 or an R1 master for a "Brembo like" master cylinder as the cheap option from ebay, but they're basically the same as any other mass produced radial master cylinder, as MCs are very sensitive to manufacturing tolerances. If you want really good braking, go with the Brembo RCS setup for dollars.
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Apr 12, 2016 06:39
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Betty posted:So I just installed a new slip-on exhaust today. Super easy to do but I do have a couple questions. For reference I installed a Yoshimura R77 slip-on on to my 2011 ZX6R. Most instructional videos on how to install it made a point to show how the baffle is removable if you so desire to change the sound. However after inspecting the screw used to secure it, I noticed its spot welded in place, probably to deter people from removing it. Is this a sound emissions issue or something? Why would they give you easy access to it, advertise it as optional, then spot weld it in place? I guess if I really wanted get it out of there I can dremel the weld but I figured I'd find out some more info before I hosed around with it and possibly damaged the poo poo out of it. Another question. During the install process I had to remove some cables that connected a valve in my old exhaust to a small servo motor under my seat. An adapter was placed on top of the servo that then knocks into a bracket I had to install. What were those cables and motor for? Whats the point of the new adapter and bracket? Usually they spot weld the baffle to provide plausible "non-removal" for street use. You disconnected the backpressure valve for the exhaust - it's either there to reduce noise or there to boost midrange. Depends on the bike model/year, but most of the time in the US they're to pass noise regs at high RPM. The new adapter/bracket makes sure it stays open all the time, likely.
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Apr 12, 2016 06:51
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The servo motor under the seat opens/closes a valve in the exhaust - its part of the muffler, which your new slip-on doesn't have. The bracket ensures the servo motor doesn't over travel and cause the FI error light to come on in the dash (during start up, the ECU checks for an acceptable servo travel range and to 'home' the valve against the end positions of the valve).
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Apr 12, 2016 08:44
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Is there a good book in between Proficient Motorcycling and A Twist of the Wrist? I saw mention of one here somewhere but completely forgot to write it down.
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Apr 12, 2016 11:27
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HotCanadianChick posted:Sooooo I need to get a new front brake master for my new-to-me '01 SV650, since the crash that got it to me for such a cheap price completely tore up the original master. I remember some people talking in here a while back about swapping master cyls from other bikes for upgrading from your stock masters, I don't suppose anyone who knows what they're talking about (zthreen?) knows off hand of some good factory master cylinders from other bikes that work well as an upgrade for an SV (is a 5/8" master a good size for an SV?) Fwiw, I have an 06 r1 mc I've been meaning to install on my gsxr swapped sv. I talked to the owner of spiegler and he told me I would probably end up with serious brake fade because of the lovely stock tokico calipers. If you've still got the oem calipers on the sv, you might end up with the same problem. E: we were talking in track context, though. M42 fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 12:06
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Anyone have experience with LiFePO4 batteries? I have a couple home-made ones. I got them because they were cheapish, small, and why the hell not? They work fine imo. Just don't run them down to nothing or they're hosed.
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Apr 12, 2016 14:17
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astrollinthepork posted:Is there a good book in between Proficient Motorcycling and A Twist of the Wrist? I saw mention of one here somewhere but completely forgot to write it down. Total Control.
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Apr 12, 2016 14:40
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SquadronROE posted:Always get a Buell Blast for your first bike. It builds character. sonofabitch Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Anyone have experience with LiFePO4 batteries? It looks like Battery Tender brand ones (3 year warranty) are reasonably cheap (or I could get one from Advance Auto (1 year warranty) for around $105. The other options are just a cheapo Autozone battery for $58 (I think i have a $15 gift card) but it only has a 3 month warranty. Last option is a bike is a Bike Master Trugel battery (2 year warranty) for $68 online but is a gamble because it could have sat for over a year. I've had a good experience with mine which I've had for a year, but don't get a cheap one if you're going to do it, get the biggest earthx that fits. I don't think they're worth it except in two situations: 1. racing or if you really care about reducing weight on your dirt bike, and 2. (my situation) you're keeping the bike outside and it gets really cold and you don't have a place to put it on a tender but you ride when it's cold so you don't want to just take it out and bring it inside. If you do this, you should note that the way they work means you have to get them warmed up by running juice through them. Whether that's turning the headlights on for a minute or cranking for 20 seconds, it's pretty disconcerting if you don't expect it.
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Apr 12, 2016 16:40
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M42 posted:Fwiw, I have an 06 r1 mc I've been meaning to install on my gsxr swapped sv. I talked to the owner of spiegler and he told me I would probably end up with serious brake fade because of the lovely stock tokico calipers. If you've still got the oem calipers on the sv, you might end up with the same problem. Z3n posted:You can use an R6 or an R1 master for a "Brembo like" master cylinder as the cheap option from ebay, but they're basically the same as any other mass produced radial master cylinder, as MCs are very sensitive to manufacturing tolerances. If you want really good braking, go with the Brembo RCS setup for dollars. Eh, the bike's never going to see a track, I just want something that doesn't feel spongy or wooden, and as long as I need a whole new master anyways, figured I'd go for a cheap upgrade while I'm in there. Will probably also get some braided SS lines for the brakes while I'm at it - I'll need at least the upper line anyways since I'm swapping from the SVS clipons to SVN bars and need a longer line now. Thanks for the advice, looks like the R6/R1 masters are fairly cheap on eBay and not much of a price difference over the stock Suzuki one.
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Apr 12, 2016 20:59
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So I did a service on a guy's DRZ and he insisted on using his own oil. Said oil was castrol magnatec 10w40 SN like you'd stick in your vtec civic. I told him it would probably gently caress his clutch and that I don't take responsibility for anything blowing up but he insisted. How hosed is he?
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Apr 12, 2016 22:13
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Slavvy posted:So I did a service on a guy's DRZ and he insisted on using his own oil. Said oil was castrol magnatec 10w40 SN like you'd stick in your vtec civic. I told him it would probably gently caress his clutch and that I don't take responsibility for anything blowing up but he insisted. How hosed is he? In my experience he was doomed the moment he got a drz. Is that the answer you're looking for?
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Apr 12, 2016 23:01
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What is it with DRZ owners and poor oil decisions?
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Apr 12, 2016 23:10
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Slavvy posted:So I did a service on a guy's DRZ and he insisted on using his own oil. Said oil was castrol magnatec 10w40 SN like you'd stick in your vtec civic. I told him it would probably gently caress his clutch and that I don't take responsibility for anything blowing up but he insisted. How hosed is he? My understanding is that as long as you don't use oil labelled as "energy conserving" you are fine. Obviously the real difference between a car and motorcycle engine is a car does not share its oil between the clutch and motor, so car oil certainly would have no effect on valves, piston rings, etc, but could affect the functionality (and by extension, I suppose, the lifespan) of the clutch. The "energy conserving" stuff has additives in it to reduce the amount of friction between moving parts, which could make the clutch real slippery. Mostly I think it's no big deal. Lots of people run Rotella with success and that's car oil.
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Apr 12, 2016 23:17
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Coydog posted:What is it with DRZ owners and poor Shots fired. Car/truck oil is fine as long as it's JASO-MA/MA2, which Rotella is.
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Apr 12, 2016 23:24
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Rosella is fine, DRZ's are awesome
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Apr 13, 2016 00:33
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