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Gorson posted:Lots of people run Rotella with success and that's car oil. The cans of Rotella-T6 I buy are labeled "diesel truck oil."
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Apr 13, 2016 00:53
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Sagebrush posted:The cans of Rotella-T6 I buy are labeled "diesel truck oil." T6 in loving everything. That said my shitrocket drz eats the stuff like a Detroit 2 stroke. I put motul 300v in the bastard and it quit eating it. Fucker. house full of T6 drinkers and this oval office has to be special. That said, 10-40 isnt energy conserving. if his clutch isn't slipping he'll probably be fine. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 13, 2016 01:58
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M42 posted:Fwiw, I have an 06 r1 mc I've been meaning to install on my gsxr swapped sv. I talked to the owner of spiegler and he told me I would probably end up with serious brake fade because of the lovely stock tokico calipers. If you've still got the oem calipers on the sv, you might end up with the same problem. If you're getting brake fade on an SV under track use, with SS lines, fresh high quality brake fluid (rbf 600 at a minimum, Castrol SRF at the high end), and a good MC (an OEM one that won the tolerance lottery or a brembo/r6/r1 master), it's because you're cooking the pads (and also braking too much). The calipers aren't a problem. In my experience, the order of failure for braking systems under strain is fluid first, then when you address that, brake pads, then you detect any tolerance failures in the MC. You do that loop once for rbf 600, track pads, and your first MC upgrade, and then you do it again with Castrol SRF, race pads, and an actual Brembo MC. Oh, and pads cook out just like tires after aggressive heat cycling too, so they can have plenty of pad material left but also be completely garbage at braking. Eventually you also realize that brake fade is something that you manage regardless anyways, and the best way to go faster is to just brake less 
Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 13, 2016 06:08
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It it possible to say "Rotella" without a Hank Hill voice?
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Apr 13, 2016 15:41
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clutchpuck posted:It it possible to say "Rotella" without a Hank Hill voice? I thought so until I read this post. But goddamnit I can't hear it any other way now.
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Apr 13, 2016 15:43
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clutchpuck posted:It it possible to say "Rotella" without a Hank Hill voice? sonofabitch E: Rotella and Rotella accessories I tell yeh whut.
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Apr 13, 2016 16:12
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Bought a DR 650. Currently buying all the armors and things and stuff to git dirty. Apparently a PO has managed to lose the bar ends. The stock handlebar is regarded as flimsy and I don't like the stock grips anyway, and I think I want maybe another inch of height on it to allow more comfort while standing, so I think a bar replacement would be a cool thing to do. Are the 1 1/8th inch bars I see like pro-tapers fat throughout the length of the bar, thus necessitating the replacement of basically everything that goes on them, or are they, as the name would suggest, tapered to be thicker in the middle but still 7/8 at the end.so the only thing needed is some modified clamps at the triple? And of course I assume I'll need to get new bar ends to match the new bars in order to install real handguards as well as control vibes? Also the stock DR mirrors are poop butt rear end. I suspect the big tall snail eye stalk mirrors like the KLR and some others have would work a lot better. Am I right? Can someone recommend some good dual sport mirrors that aren't useless on road while also easy to get out of the way or rugged enough to go off?
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Apr 13, 2016 19:24
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HAMAS HATE BOAT posted:Bought a DR 650. Currently buying all the armors and things and stuff to git dirty. Apparently a PO has managed to lose the bar ends. The stock handlebar is regarded as flimsy and I don't like the stock grips anyway, and I think I want maybe another inch of height on it to allow more comfort while standing, so I think a bar replacement would be a cool thing to do. Pro tapers and Fatbars are all normal sized where the throttle/levers mount, but stuff like handguards usually need a different inside mount. As you said you need different clamps on the triple aswell. these guys are doing a DR650 build series at the moment https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEQwA8Brt84qNpRZ8nknm7xU8Q8R6yTPS
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Apr 13, 2016 20:19
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The last 1000km I've had to put 1 liter of oil in my 690 Duke. In other words, the oil consumption has dramatically increased. Thankfully it's still under warranty, though of course I'll need to convince the dealer it's an issue to begin with, and not my fault. In any case, any idea how this could happen?
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Apr 13, 2016 20:44
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This is a thing that happens sometimes with 690 engines, especially if you're stretching the oil change intervals. I'd keep an eye on it and see if it keeps burning more oil. Have you done a lot of freeway? Been lugging the engine a lot? 690s like rev and load so uh, I recommend wheelies and abuse.
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Apr 13, 2016 20:53
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Z3n posted:This is a thing that happens sometimes with 690 engines, especially if you're stretching the oil change intervals. I'd keep an eye on it and see if it keeps burning more oil. Have you done a lot of freeway? Been lugging the engine a lot? 690s like rev and load so uh, I recommend wheelies and abuse. Yeah the 10000km interval always seemed high to me; I got the bike with 6000km and immediately changed the oil, then it was changed again at 10000. It's at 11000 now. It's always burned a bit of oil but I expected that to decrease, not increase, since I know it takes a while for these engines to be break in. The change at 10k was done at the dealership so they might have messed up somehow I guess. I'm the third owner, my dad got the bike with like 2k on it and rode it like the old man he is, then I got it at 6k and started making sure to cane it once warmed up. So my bike might not be fully broken in yet, but I still wouldn't expect it to start using more oil.
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Apr 13, 2016 21:02
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Has it dropped over time or did you just check and notice it was low? A liter is usually roughly full to empty on the sight glass so is there a chance you under filled it slightly at the last change, plus it's been burning a little? Suddenly starting massive oil burn is a really weird sign.
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Apr 13, 2016 21:13
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echomadman posted:Pro tapers and Fatbars are all normal sized where the throttle/levers mount, but stuff like handguards usually need a different inside mount. As you said you need different clamps on the triple aswell. Thanks a bunch for this. "suzuki bush pig" owns and this looks like a great video series, the adventure oz guy really appears to love the bike and it was one of his vids about it being the best bike in the world that was part of what nudged me over the edge of picking one to be my budget ADV https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spAq8JuXVUY OK actually it was several of their videos along the same basic line (that the DR is obviously the best bike in the world) HAMAS HATE BOAT fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 13, 2016 21:14
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Z3n posted:Has it dropped over time or did you just check and notice it was low? A liter is usually roughly full to empty on the sight glass so is there a chance you under filled it slightly at the last change, plus it's been burning a little? Suddenly starting massive oil burn is a really weird sign. After the 10k service the level was halfway between min and max, then I checked it around every 300kms and added oil each time, realizing that before, that had never been necessary so soon.
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Apr 13, 2016 21:28
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HAMAS HATE BOAT posted:Bought a DR 650. Currently buying all the armors and things and stuff to git dirty. Apparently a PO has managed to lose the bar ends. The stock handlebar is regarded as flimsy and I don't like the stock grips anyway, and I think I want maybe another inch of height on it to allow more comfort while standing, so I think a bar replacement would be a cool thing to do. These are good. https://www.doubletakemirror.com
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Apr 13, 2016 23:03
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builds character posted:These are good. https://www.doubletakemirror.com Will vouch for these. Protip: sand the balls of the mirror, they'll hold up better at speed.
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Apr 13, 2016 23:07
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cursedshitbox posted:Will vouch for these. Protip: sand the balls of the mirror, they'll hold up better at speed. Good tip. Also, if (when) the balls get deformed just take them off for a few days and they'll regain their ball shape.
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Apr 14, 2016 12:14
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High Protein posted:Yeah the 10000km interval always seemed high to me; I change the oil on my SMC at 1500-2500mi. I live on an island where the KTM dealer was the best dealer for 10 straight years. There is probably a higher relative percentage of KTM ownership here than anywhere else outside of Matighofen. The local wisdom is "Take the interval KTM told you and half it". Especially true if you commute on it and lug it a bit in traffic vs. weekend hoonery. EDIT: dang, wait, I had a question - What is the mirror set with the built in indicators I've seen recommended here a couple times, I wanna say by z3n? I think they are OEM on an Aprilia or something? ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 15:20
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Could my sudden oil consumption be from ring/cylinder corrosion? The bike's sat for like 6 weeks, outside, but under a car port and cover. I know some winterization guides say to fog the cylinders with oil but I didn't deem it necessary, also I don't think it's that easy to take the spark plugs out of a 690.
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Apr 14, 2016 18:35
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High Protein posted:Could my sudden oil consumption be from ring/cylinder corrosion? Maybe, maybe not. If it is, the fix is an Italian tune-up. Just sayin'.
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Apr 14, 2016 19:13
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High Protein posted:Could my sudden oil consumption be from ring/cylinder corrosion? The bike's sat for like 6 weeks, outside, but under a car port and cover. I know some winterization guides say to fog the cylinders with oil but I didn't deem it necessary, also I don't think it's that easy to take the spark plugs out of a 690. I doubt it. Mine has sat for multiple weeks, multiple times, in a marina car park and ridden all weathers for 30k, never garaged. The mechanicals are fine. It did however turn my wiring loom into a series of PVC tubes filled with green dust. Plug removal isn't terrible, IIRC it's - Remove seat, Remove side panel, pull plug boot, use a long socket extension to clear the trellis frame (assuming SMC/SE, gently caress knows for the SMs).
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Apr 14, 2016 19:20
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builds character posted:Good tip. Also, if (when) the balls get deformed just take them off for a few days and they'll regain their ball shape. Can confirm, my doctor also said this.
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Apr 14, 2016 20:04
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Thanks for the input, I will order a set of those mirrors, and also diligently comply with all goon instructions and advice regarding the maintenance of and modifications to my balls while in operation of my new motorcycle.
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Apr 14, 2016 21:30
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SquadronROE posted:Can confirm, my doctor also said this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RR-iFCwNuZM
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Apr 14, 2016 22:58
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Unclogging a low speed jet can only be done by tearing the whole thing apart, right?
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Apr 15, 2016 21:49
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Phone posted:Unclogging a low speed jet can only be done by tearing the whole thing apart, right? You gotta remove it and clear it out so yeah you have to remove the float bowl to get at the jet
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Apr 15, 2016 21:52
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Unless it's an Me 262 in which case just loving run.
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Apr 15, 2016 21:55
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Razzled posted:You gotta remove it and clear it out so yeah you have to remove the float bowl to get at the jet
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Apr 17, 2016 13:57
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Hey Vermonters, or anyone who has used the state to re-title a bike, can you explain the process and what is involved? Cost? Can it be done completely online? I've got my eye on a cheap project but title cost/hassle is going to decide whether or not it is worth it.
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Apr 17, 2016 16:28
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Let me preface this question by first saying know I am a Bad Person and possibly a Horrible Human Being, but Motorcycle Jesus forgives all who accept Him into their hearts. So I haven't had to deal with de-winterizing, or even winterizing a bike for years, so I sort of just didn't do anything when I parked my bike last year. I know. Horrible person. So I've got some amount of gas in the tank, probably no oil in the cylinders, and a freshly charged battery. Bike has been on stands all winter so I'm not worried about the tires. Was thinking of just riding it to the gas station and topping up with premium and then washing it and doing an oil change. This is probably Wrong, should I not even attempt to start it until I change the oil and say a hundred Hail Kawasakis? Should I pour holy snake oil into the gas tank?
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Apr 18, 2016 19:34
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Linedance posted:Let me preface this question by first saying know I am a Bad Person and possibly a Horrible Human Being, but Motorcycle Jesus forgives all who accept Him into their hearts. If it turns over and starts, just ride it.
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Apr 18, 2016 19:40
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What do you guys do to your carbs to gently caress them up so royally? My yzf600r that I got in absolute poo poo box shape in 2013 has never had the carbs touched since ive owned it. I only can run things may to october and I never use stabilizer. I fired it up Saturday and went for a short trip around town, runs great, same as always. That goes for all my other bikes, snowmobiles, etc.
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Apr 18, 2016 19:53
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"Vaccuum petcocks are totally reliable"
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Apr 18, 2016 19:59
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I'm a special case because I bought a NOS 2010 bike in 2015, and the EPA made the manufacturer grind down any carb adjusters because of emissions (versus telling them to put EFI on the fucker). Also I've never dealt with carbs before, so it's going to be a learning experience.
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Apr 18, 2016 21:13
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EX250 Type R posted:What do you guys do to your carbs to gently caress them up so royally? Previous owners.
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Apr 18, 2016 21:55
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ya I thought I addressed that with the yzf600r :P
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Apr 18, 2016 22:23
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Linedance posted:Let me preface this question by first saying know I am a Bad Person and possibly a Horrible Human Being, but Motorcycle Jesus forgives all who accept Him into their hearts. Make sure there's enough of the relevant fluids and give it a good Italian tune-up - If the rings have stuck in the bores then a good thrashing will buff it out and getting the oil up to temp and keeping it there will drive out the moisture that it has probably sucked up from winter condensation. Change the oil if you're that bothered by it, but it doesn't really go off that quickly so if it still had plenty of life when you parked it I'd just use as-is.
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Apr 18, 2016 22:45
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clutchpuck posted:"Vaccuum petcocks are totally reliable" Gorson posted:Hey Vermonters, or anyone who has used the state to re-title a bike, can you explain the process and what is involved? Cost? Can it be done completely online? I've got my eye on a cheap project but title cost/hassle is going to decide whether or not it is worth it.
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Apr 19, 2016 02:11
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My Ducati Monster is a paper weight again... I can't hear the fuel pump, again. I dealt with my fuel pump a 1-1/2 years ago. It was a needlessly painful ordeal with the local dealer telling me the fuel pump was bad but it was actually the wiring harness going into it. Had to fix that myself. So down to my question... I moved 4 months ago to a new area where I can get non-ethanol gas easily. It's a station right on the way to work. Could switching to 100% gas after a few years of the 90/10 gas have killed my fuel pump? The crap from the 10% ethanol clogging my fuel filter and then breaking the pump?
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Apr 19, 2016 13:22
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xwing posted:Could switching to 100% gas after a few years of the 90/10 gas have killed my fuel pump? The crap from the 10% ethanol clogging my fuel filter and then breaking the pump? No it's just Italian 
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Apr 19, 2016 14:52
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