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Was looking into exhausts and tunes and such for the FZ. How and how strictly does California enforce exhaust and tuning mods? I can't find a "street legal" version of many products
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Apr 29, 2016 04:39
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Very little enforcement at the rider level. There's relatively strict enforcement at the shop level, though, so it can be somewhat difficult to find a shop that does tunes for street bikes. It's also hard to find good tuners, period. If you're in NorCal, Alex at Fastlane, KC at BRG, Spears Racing. I was also happy with the lady who did the tune on my 999 at Desmoto. If you're doing a track bike, I'd spend the extra time to get it to EDR in Portland.
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Apr 29, 2016 06:20
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PhoenixWing posted:Has anyone here ever owned a Suzuki TS250, or a similar Suzuki of that period? I'm trying to track down an irritating pre-ignition problem on this bike, and just about everything checks out on it, thus far. Fifth gear and full throttle makes a constant, loud pre-ignition sound, and as I learned the hard way, meant a melted piston (Literally a spark plug sized hole straight through the centre). No other load or gear seems to really do it. Tore it all down, replaced some shot cylinder seals, pressurised the crankcase to ~8psi, and made sure it didn't leak over the course of an hour. All checked out there, so, no leaks from either crank seal. Put the new piston and rings in, and fired it back up. What year is it? Is it one of the years with the proto-CDI ignition that Suzuki used before CDI was really a thing? I remember horror stories of that from the ts400 where it would not always change the ignition timing at the same rpm every time and the bike would either bog like hell, take off in a 12-o'clock wheelie, or take off with the engine pinging away, it was a crapshoot every time you revved it up.
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Apr 29, 2016 11:54
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Chichevache posted:They're offering me about 47 a month for full coverage with comprehensive. I have no accidents ever and it has been nearly five years since my last moving violation. I think insurance fraud is something that also goes on your record, accidents aside.
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Apr 29, 2016 23:04
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Every time I have ever gotten a quote from them they have charged 2- 3 times as much as the company I have eventually gone with. Insane.
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So I think the Ninja 500 backfired on the way home today. When I went to go out for a joyride a half hour later, the bike would not start. It seemed to be getting no fuel. I got it running with a push start, but it was not getting anywhere near enough gas to do much more than idle. Would a backfire possibly have knackered a carb float? Anything else I should take a real close look at?
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Apr 29, 2016 23:53
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Beach Bum posted:So I think the Ninja 500 backfired on the way home today. When I went to go out for a joyride a half hour later, the bike would not start. It seemed to be getting no fuel. I got it running with a push start, but it was not getting anywhere near enough gas to do much more than idle. Would a backfire possibly have knackered a carb float? Anything else I should take a real close look at? (Disclaimer: I could be wrong but) sounds like textbook electrics, battery or charging. It backfires because the spark is weak and is letting gas through without setting it on fire promptly. And the weak battery can't spin the motor AND ignite the spark, but it can ignite the spark if you help out spinning the motor, so it starts when you're pushing the bike. It could be that the charging has failed and the battery is just low on power or it could be that the charging is ok and the battery has failed. Both has happened to me and the first symptoms in both cases were the same. First step, can you charge the battery off the bike? See if it starts better then. If it still starts poorly, see thread title, measure battery voltage. It might be like mine once was, 12,8 volts resting, 8 volts cranking like a horror movie music box. That's a broken battery. Once it's running, measure the stator output. Google what the stator output is supposed to be like on your bike, or ask, report results. Learning to diagnose your poo poo with a cheap-rear end multimeter is hugely empowering, succeed once and you're owning $100 dealer diagnostic jobs with an order of magnitude. Ola fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Apr 30, 2016 |
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Apr 30, 2016 00:28
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Ola posted:(Disclaimer: I could be wrong but) sounds like textbook electrics, battery or charging. It backfires because the spark is weak and is letting gas through without setting it on fire promptly. And the weak battery can't spin the motor AND ignite the spark, but it can ignite the spark if you help out spinning the motor, so it starts when you're pushing the bike. I had not even considered the battery/electrics angle, I'll have a go at it with the meter tomorrow. I've just been mucking about with the tuning and carbs do much lately I was sure I'd buggered something up.
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Apr 30, 2016 00:53
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Beach Bum posted:I had not even considered the battery/electrics angle, I'll have a go at it with the meter tomorrow. I've just been mucking about with the tuning and carbs do much lately I was sure I'd buggered something up. Nice! Hope you didn't muck anything up with the fuel to hide a possible electric problem! Oh well, we'll figure it out. Tips, if the battery is way down in the single digits, replace it anyway. But it could be that a broken charging system made the battery discharge so much that it broke, and now both are broken. You can only measure the charging system when the bike is running at driving speed (~3000 rpm), so don't give it a clean bill of health just because it spins and starts with a fresh battery. If you can get it running, before swapping the battery, at higher than idle RPM you can measure the charging before spending a single unit of whatever coinage.
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Apr 30, 2016 01:28
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Did you kink a fuel line loving with the fueling?
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Apr 30, 2016 02:14
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Radiators with sudden coolant leaks are normal and I can ride the zrx 30 miles to get it home.... right?   I got to work and the front end was splashed with coolant. There has never been a problem before, as far as I know, and I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary during my commute.  SaNChEzZ posted:I think insurance fraud is something that also goes on your record, accidents aside. If I ever meet anyone with a record of it I'll be sure to let them know. BTW I got a full payout for my DRZ. 
Chichevache fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Apr 30, 2016 |
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Apr 30, 2016 04:51
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yeah sure who needs coolant, just remember to leave it on the side of the highway for a few days if it starts acting up
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Apr 30, 2016 04:57
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Razzled posted:yeah sure who needs coolant, just remember to leave it on the side of the highway for a few days if it starts acting up It sounds like you're advising me to do something illegal.
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Apr 30, 2016 05:03
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Chichevache posted:It sounds like you're advising me to do something illegal. The only thing you should be arrested for is for breaking so many normally rock-solid reliable bikes by drawing them into the catastrophic field of entropy that surrounds you.
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Apr 30, 2016 05:33
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I hope you just got a freak stone flicked up and punctured the radiator because otherwise what is wrong with you.
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Apr 30, 2016 06:11
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Well, you don't technically *need* the coolant, as long as you ride gently enough and stop often enough that no parts of the engine overheat. Overheating could take anywhere from, eh, 30 seconds to 10 minutes of riding, I'd guess, depending on the engine design. Oh and you'll probably gently caress up the water pump and maybe some other things that I can't think of right now. Unfortunately, your engine temperature sensor reads from the coolant system, so if there's no liquid you aren't even going to be able to rely on the temperature gauge to tell you when to stop and cool off. Get it towed. Then, when you get home, wash it all off so that tomorrow you can figure out where it's coming from.
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Apr 30, 2016 06:20
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In their infinite wisdom kawasaki allowed themselves one secondary dial on that bike and they chose to use it for a fuel gauge rather than temperature gauge so you have no idea if it's overheating 
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Apr 30, 2016 06:22
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HotCanadianChick posted:The only thing you should be arrested for is for breaking so many normally rock-solid reliable bikes by drawing them into the catastrophic field of entropy that surrounds you. My first car was a 1994 Honda Accord that I got to almost 250k (my dad put the first 150k on before giving it to me).  I once wished that car would die so I could get a new one. It's my fault, I wished on the monkey's paw. Someone get me a Toyota Hilux, I have a calling.  Slavvy posted:I hope you just got a freak stone flicked up and punctured the radiator because otherwise what is wrong with you. Oh god, you really think it is that bad?  I was hoping I just needed to replace all of my hoses at worst, maybe tighten a few screws if I was really lucky. I did a 400 mile trip on Monday and it ran fine (Lady Chiche and I finally decided on a wedding location!). I gave it a once over yesterday as well when I filled up on gas and it still looked as pristine as the day I got it, except for the bug guts. Something must have hit it on my commute today.  Sagebrush posted:Well, you don't technically *need* the coolant, as long as you ride gently enough and stop often enough that no parts of the engine overheat. Overheating could take anywhere from, eh, 30 seconds to 10 minutes of riding, I'd guess, depending on the engine design. Oh and you'll probably gently caress up the water pump and maybe some other things that I can't think of right now. I'm leaving it at work because it is safer than taking it home. I've got a state of the art camera system trained on it and 24 hour guards watching.  My lovely job finally has a benefit to it. You think there's a chance I can diagnose it in the work parking lot tomorrow, or should I just haul it right back and get ready to start tearing poo poo up?
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Apr 30, 2016 09:14
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Maybe buy a cheap coolant pressure tester and find where it's leaking from if nothing obvious jumps out.
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Apr 30, 2016 09:21
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Uhhhhhh..... this may be a dumb question, but right before noticing the spill I was riding some very high grade hills in San Mateo. Is there a possibility some spilled due to the slope, or is it wishful thinking?
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Apr 30, 2016 10:01
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Ola posted:But it could be that a broken charging system made the battery discharge so much that it broke, and now both are broken. And if you're lucky the stator or the regulator failed first and managed to take out the other one before killing your battery. I ended up with having to replace both of those, but the battery being fine after a proper slow charge up. I'm still using it 2 years later, got the spare battery(replaced that first before finding the proper fault) sitting on shelf getting topped up every couple of months. Get the thread title tool, print out this guide and you'll be sure that it's not the electrical side that is messing thing up.
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Apr 30, 2016 10:14
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Chichevache posted:Uhhhhhh..... this may be a dumb question, but right before noticing the spill I was riding some very high grade hills in San Mateo. Is there a possibility some spilled due to the slope, or is it wishful thinking? The coolant overflow bottle is in the rear and there has clearly been a bunch of coolant pissing out everywhere at the front of the bike.
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Apr 30, 2016 10:17
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Retarded question time First bike here in the UK I'm looking for: - real bike (no scooters) - inexpensive (I'm doing direct entry to an A licence but insurance is expensive, so I'm getting TPO) - something with ABS Looking on autotrader, it appears that the cheapest bike that meets these criteria is the Kawasaki ER-6F. Any minefields here? Does the ABS on those actually work? Should I be worried about high mileage examples?
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Apr 30, 2016 10:18
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Slavvy posted:The coolant overflow bottle is in the rear and there has clearly been a bunch of coolant pissing out everywhere at the front of the bike. Well the bike isn't the only thing pissed right now  . Here's a new question for you all: which camouflage hoses should I buy to replace my current black hoses?  http://racebikebitzusa.com/Kawasaki-ZXR-1200R-Samco-Sport-Hose-Kit?search=Zrx1200
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Apr 30, 2016 10:22
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primitive posted:Retarded question time First big bike or first bike period? I already wrote a ton of words about this kind of scenario in the other discussion thread, so some more detail would help save me unnecessarily going off on one. Fwiw I took my direct access on the er-6n and didn't really like it. It's comfy enough and easy to move around, but suffers very strong vibrations from the engine which on the naked version at least made the mirrors unusable (not sure if fairing mounted mirrors would mitigate this).
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Apr 30, 2016 11:04
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primitive posted:Retarded question time The ER-6's are solid if a little uninspiring bikes. What that means is that they are great bikes to learn on and will feel initially like a rocket. Second hand it's the normal things to look for, service history, consumables (like chain and sprockets) and abuse like dropping it. If you have a friend who knows bikes bring them with you because you will get giddy with excitement and will miss things. If you are looking for cheap faired bikes then maybe the Yamaha XJ6? Neutral handling with a massively detuned R6 engine so the power deliver is much better but still has that oh poo poo power delivery over 6k rpm that 4 cylinder engines tend to have. The SV650 was still sold new for cheap for a while and while its old tech it's still a solid bike.
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Apr 30, 2016 11:18
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Hmm.. Troubleshooting. My Honda CB1300 started to have rough response to the throttle. Trying to keep it in constant RPMs is impossible, with the engine speed going +/- 500 RPMs. On idle a little less, but still makes especially slow driving very difficult. First I thought it is just old gas in the tank, but running almost empty and refuelling seemed only to make things worst. Basic stuff I did first: - Changed oil (it was time anyhow) - Cleared crankcase breathing tubes (also the time) - Changed plugs (clear on the contact area, but some soot on the rest of the exposed - is this normal btw?, gaps were ok) No change on the response, so I tried to do start it with the fuel tank cap open (requires a spare key in this one). Much better! So my next guess is that the replacement air tube to the tank is clogged? Any experience on fixing this? Other theories: Fuel gunk in the tubes/injectors, air leaks, some sensor off (should show in the ECM warning lights?). Also, repair manual says that a possible reason for rough engine is clogged fuel filter. However, NOWHERE in the manual it says where it is! Somewhere between the fuel tank and the pump I guess, but it is really tight in there...
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Apr 30, 2016 11:49
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Renaissance Robot posted:First big bike or first bike period? I already wrote a ton of words about this kind of scenario in the other discussion thread, so some more detail would help save me unnecessarily going off on one. First bike period I'll try to find your other post I'm also trying to buy something cheap to poot around on for a month while I wait to take my direct access test, but in the £1000 range it looks like my options are Chinese piece of poo poo or clapped out Honda. Probably go Honda, on the theory that if I sell it for no more than a £400 loss its cheaper than renting one more a month.
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Apr 30, 2016 11:57
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Letmebefrank posted:engine speed going +/- 500 RPMs. The fuel filter might be in the tank, on the bit of the petcock that goes inside the tank. When I had surging problems like this there was an issue with intake air. There might be some missing bits, a crack or some other form of leak somewhere along the path from the air filter through the injectors and into the engine. The classic way of troubleshooting is spraying starter fluid on the outside of the possibly leaking bits while the engine is idling and listening for changes in rpm.
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Apr 30, 2016 12:46
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primitive posted:Retarded question time 
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Apr 30, 2016 13:06
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primitive posted:First bike period It's most of page 730, but honestly not as applicable to you as it might have been considering the er6 is a relatively tame machine that only makes about half the power of the bike being discussed over there. In terms of little bikes, definitely go Japanese. Cbf, cbr, ybr, the 125s all hold their value very well here. I got an '07 cbf125 last year for £1050 and sold it last month for £950. Think about budgeting a couple hundred more if it means you can get one without dents (or a screw in the tyre like mine had  ), that way you should be able to get all your money back on it, especially if you'll only have it for a month. That said I'd honestly consider keeping it for another couple of months after you pass. There's no reason to jump straight to an A bike just because you legally can, and it's a good feeling riding a 125 without L plates. They can't do motorways* or overtake anything, but they're still excellent fun, and it's good to build general experience on something small for reasons detailed in the other thread; Sagebrush does a great job explaining exactly why in the second half of Sagebrush posted:this post, which is still at least somewhat applicable even though he's talking about a supersport triple rather than a lumpy twin *after you pass your test this is no longer legally true, but having done it I really really don't recommend it, at least not at this time of year.
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Apr 30, 2016 13:20
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Calm down. In the UK, if you do your test on a twist+go, then you're cursed to only ride twist+gos until you do your test on a proper, big boy motorcycle.
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Apr 30, 2016 13:35
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So I'm pretty sure I'm going to end up buying a full Arrow exhaust for my CB650f, the Akropovic lines are more expensive, apparently built-to-order, and don't really line up with the swingarm. This gives me about 400 bucks to play with and... I'm thinking of getting a Powercommander FC to go with it, which can have the appropriate tune loaded up from the get go. Is this worth the money and effort installing? Bearing in mind it'd be my first time (potentially) removing a fuel tank, and really I'm getting a new exhaust for the looks and sound, I'm not after outright performance (the i4 is already really sweet).
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Apr 30, 2016 14:23
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Chichevache posted:Radiators with sudden coolant leaks are normal and I can ride the zrx 30 miles to get it home.... right? Radiators, how quaint.
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Apr 30, 2016 14:45
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Chichevache posted:Radiators with sudden coolant leaks are normal and I can ride the zrx 30 miles to get it home.... right? Thats right Chiched right there. Real catty wompus.
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Apr 30, 2016 14:47
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Letmebefrank posted:Hmm.. Troubleshooting. Sounds like your fuel tank isn't venting. As a result the fuel tank is pressurizing when you draw fuel from it, straining the pump and causing it to run funny. Check all the vent and breather hoses and that everything is hooked up correctly. Usually this happens cause you accidentally punched a rubber hose somewhere, so check all of those!
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Apr 30, 2016 16:01
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Renaissance Robot posted:It's most of page 730, but honestly not as applicable to you as it might have been considering the er6 is a relatively tame machine that only makes about half the power of the bike being discussed over there. I just bought a CB125F about... two hours ago for funsies The only reason I would consider an A bike at this stage is that MY GIRLFRIEND rides something obnoxiously fast and I want to ride around Europe with her But I'm also not stupid so I'm not going to buy something that makes triple digit horsepower right away!
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Apr 30, 2016 16:17
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That's a pretty good reason! Now go enjoy your CB. 
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Apr 30, 2016 16:39
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Renaissance Robot posted:That's a pretty good reason! Now go enjoy your CB. 30 miles driving in London = 150 miles elsewhere I'm loving exhausted from everyone trying to kill me
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Apr 30, 2016 21:20
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Beach Bum posted:I had not even considered the battery/electrics angle, I'll have a go at it with the meter tomorrow. I've just been mucking about with the tuning and carbs do much lately I was sure I'd buggered something up. Started the bike in the garage on a whim yesterday. I was startled when it caught nearly instantly. Idled fine, revved to 4k or so a couple times just fine as well. However, I'd forgotten to remove the seat, so I pulled the key. Then it wouldn't start again. Battery voltage at rest was 11.5-12.2v, voltage while starting was under a volt. My battery's knackered, ain't it? Z3n posted:Did you kink a fuel line loving with the fueling? Checked this, I did not. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 09:21 on May 1, 2016 |
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May 1, 2016 09:06
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Beach Bum posted:Started the bike in the garage on a whim yesterday. I was startled when it caught nearly instantly. Idled fine, revved to 4k or so a couple times just fine as well. However, I'd forgotten to remove the seat, so I pulled the key. Then it wouldn't start again. Battery voltage at rest was 11.5-12.2v, voltage while starting was under a volt. My battery's knackered, ain't it? Open your fuel tank and then try again. If it's clogged vents, you may have just put a vacuum in the tank, preventing gas from flowing.
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May 1, 2016 16:29
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