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I was thinking about flushing my coolant and filling it with water for now and put some fresh oil in the Vstrom to see if the coolant + oil was what caused the oil pressure light to come on. My thinking is if it is, the oil light won't come on (right away at least) which would tell me the head gasket leak is the main/only problem and nothing broken internally. Does this make sense? Also, can I use hose water or do I need distilled water, and how involved is fixing the head gasket?
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May 8, 2016 18:17
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Schroeder91 posted:
Not so sure it does. I would go to some length diagnosing it with as little money spend, as few bolts unbolted as possible and certainly as few engine revolutions as possible. Perhaps start by pulling the plugs and take a look at them? Feel free to post pics of them.
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May 8, 2016 20:33
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Alright, I'll see if I can get them out after I get off work. Ive never done it before but I believe the onboard toolkit has the tools and the manual will walk me through it.
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May 8, 2016 20:58
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Alright I got the spark plugs and they don't look too bad according to the guide in the manual. I'd say they were pretty close to normal wear. Unfortunately I'm an idiot and didn't keep track of which cylinder each plug came out of. Plug 1   Plug 2   Both heads  I also discovered the source of the coolant outside my engine. This nasty little tubing. I don't know what it connects, but it needs to be replaced.  I wonder what/if something is supposed to be threaded in that hole in pic #1.  I'll get some new plugs to put in tomorrow and I'm going to check the air filter, I didn't get to it today. Can I just shoot hose water into my radiator to flush it?
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May 9, 2016 05:11
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Plugs look ok. Drain oil, check for chunks. Might have gotten lucky and just had the oil pressure sensor fail!
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May 9, 2016 05:33
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The oil was chunk free except like 3 tiny grain of sand sized things, metal I assume. The oil looked like chocolate milk though, it was brown and not black.
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May 9, 2016 05:57
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You mention the bike running warm - how warm?
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May 9, 2016 06:24
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clutchpuck posted:Pop quiz hot shots Milepost book but for poo poo's sake don't bring the whole damned thing with you, tear out the pages you need and leave the rest at home.
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May 9, 2016 06:28
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n8r posted:You mention the bike running warm - how warm? The light came on once, last month I believe. It was a hot day and I was stuck in traffic not moving because there was construction. I turned the bike off and let it sit until we were moving. Since then, the most it was got was full bars but no light a handful of times and I'd usually start moving soon and temp would go down. I should've looked into doing the coolant sooner but we were down a person at work so I was working a lot.
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May 9, 2016 06:34
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You probably warped the head from repeated overheating. The bike shouldn't get to full bars basically ever. The light going on is a "gently caress you things are hosed", not a warning. Compression test will tell you for sure though. I did the same many years ago when shipping damage slightly ovaled a front coolant rail and it slowly dripped coolant on the exhaust at full temp (so I never saw a puddle). Eventually the engine popped and I discovered I had no coolant 
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May 9, 2016 06:43
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Nooo Maybe the light should come on earlier then, gently caress. So where do I go from here?
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May 9, 2016 06:56
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A light that comes on earlier is called a gauge. Now you need a compression tester or just say fuckit and go second hand engine.
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May 9, 2016 06:59
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Yes but I didn't know the you aren't even supposed to reach the top of the gauge and that the light was REALLY bad. My cbr500r didn't even have a gauge so I didn't know what to expect. It ran pretty warm too when I got it right before our "winter" kicked in here in Arizona so it cooled down. The PO either was oblivious like me or he knew and offloaded it on me. Doesn't matter now though. I'll look into getting a compression test.
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May 9, 2016 07:11
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I think the other guys are writing it off too soon, overheat light doesn't mean instant death. Since the plugs aren't covered with chocolate milk or other goo, there's still hope. Did you drain the coolant yet? It's a good idea to check it out for oil as well. You should put oil back in it before you compression test, of course. Compression testers can be very cheap, as long as they fit.
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May 9, 2016 07:19
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Yeah I dumped the coolant, had to move the radiator to reach a spark plug. I didn't see oil, it was pretty green.
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May 9, 2016 07:49
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My TDM had an analog temperature gauge and on hot days it would creep eerily close to the RED ZONE OF DEATH. Then the fan would kick on and cool the bike quickly. Turns out it is not the red zone of death but the red zone of cooling? Thanks yamaha! 
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May 9, 2016 09:45
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My ZRX has a light that comes on when it gets too hot. It has only come on once; it was several months ago when I sat in traffic. It did not come on when coolant started spraying from the radiator.
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May 9, 2016 09:51
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Current bike was stolen (meh), so I picked up a new Hyperstrada 939 on Saturday (yay). Unfortunately it looks like something is amiss, since it would keep getting stuck at 4k rpm. I would come up to a stoplight in first gear, and even with the throttle completely closed and my hand literally off it the engine would keep turning over. Sometimes it went back down to an idle of ~1.75k after five seconds or so, sometimes it didn't. Blipping the throttle to 'reset' it did nothing, but switching gears to second and back to first seemed to reliably fix it. It's a sporadic thing - about 80% of the time the engine functions normally. I rode it home for six hours and it seems fine otherwise, aside from the snatchy/jerky throttle the entire model range tends to suffer from. The internet is telling me that it's most likely an air leak, but is there anywhere else I or the local non-Ducati dealer should look? tirinal fucked around with this message at 15:44 on May 9, 2016 |
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May 9, 2016 15:41
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New new or new to you? If it's brand new, then chalk it up to  and make the dealer fix itIf it's new to you, then I don't know
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May 9, 2016 16:45
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Re: my 690 Duke's oil consumption; I just did a 1200 mile trip and had to add almost a gallon of oil. Day after tomorrow the dealer's taking a look, I wonder how that'll turn out. At least I've also got a test ride booked on the 1290.
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May 9, 2016 20:49
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High Protein posted:At least I've also got a test ride booked on the 1290. I hear that's a decent bike.
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May 9, 2016 20:59
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Last week I ended up taking my bike home from work in a truck after I discovered coolant all over the front end. Refresher:Chichevache posted:Radiators with sudden coolant leaks are normal and I can ride the zrx 30 miles to get it home.... right? Today I finally got a chance to look at the bike. I pulled the fuel tank and got a look at the radiator: it is filled to the neck still  . My reserve tank is empty though. I'm going to fill the reserve tank and run the bike to see if there is still a leak. If it is good, I'm draining the coolant and putting fresh stuff in, just to make sure there isn't oil mixed in somehow..  Edit   I think it may have vented through that hole? I was riding some hills with pretty steep inclines, is it possible that the bike wasn't able to pump the coolant to the reserve tank, thus it vented from the radiator instead? My reserve is bone dry, but my radiator is filled to the neck. I'm feeling optimistic; someone, crush my dreams. Chichevache fucked around with this message at 23:47 on May 9, 2016 |
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May 9, 2016 23:36
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I've been reading about doing a compression test so I'll know what I'm doing, and I guess you're supposed to warm the engine up first. I don't wanna run the engine if I can help it in case it isn't damaged yet. Should I do the test while cold and just see if the psi matches for both cylinders? From what I understand the psi will be lower than spec because the engine will be cold but they should still mostly match. Also I'm kinda confused about the process, I saw some people say to ground the spark plugs which I don't understand, and another person said to disconnect the ignition. Don't I want my ignition to work so when I WOT the throttle and press the button it'll try and turn over and thus give me my results? Maybe the manual will explain it all, I haven't checked it yet because I haven't gotten a tester yet but I'll see about getting one tomorrow.
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May 10, 2016 00:13
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captainOrbital posted:I hear that's a decent bike. Does anybody here know anything about the 1290? Should I get one?
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May 10, 2016 00:13
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Does anybody here know anything about the 1290? Should I get one? I hear it's a good beginner bike.
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May 10, 2016 00:27
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Chichevache posted:I'm going to fill the reserve tank and run the bike to see if there is still a leak. If it is good, I'm draining the coolant and putting fresh stuff in, just to make sure there isn't oil mixed in somehow.. It is time to replace my fuel hose: the leak is so bad that I can't run the bike at all to see what the radiator damage is. Hah hah. When it rains, it pours 
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May 10, 2016 00:33
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High Protein posted:Re: my 690 Duke's oil consumption; I just did a 1200 mile trip and had to add almost a gallon of oil. Day after tomorrow the dealer's taking a look, I wonder how that'll turn out. At least I've also got a test ride booked on the 1290. The dealer for my 701sm said that Husqvarna told them that it goes through 1cc of oil per mile ridden. I've been adding oil regularly to keep it in the eyeglass. It seems really weird.
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May 10, 2016 02:20
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Schroeder91 posted:I've been reading about doing a compression test so I'll know what I'm doing, and I guess you're supposed to warm the engine up first. I don't wanna run the engine if I can help it in case it isn't damaged yet. Should I do the test while cold and just see if the psi matches for both cylinders? From what I understand the psi will be lower than spec because the engine will be cold but they should still mostly match. Doing the test cold still works but the numbers will be a little lower. It will be enough to see if things are in the right ballpark, and to test for the source of leaks. (if it's low, pour a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder and test again; of the pressure goes up, the problem is piston rings, if not, it's valves or the head gasket or something worse). You have to take the plug (or one plug) out of the active cylinder to screw in the compression gauge. You don't need to ground the plugs -- I don't know what that's about. You do want to leave the kill switch off, though, so that the engine doesn't fire. If the kill switch also stops your starter from engaging, then unplug the other spark plugs from their leads. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:32 on May 10, 2016 |
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May 10, 2016 03:30
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Alright, I already have both spark plugs out. It sounds like I just plop the tester into the plug area and twist it in, then with the kill switch off go WOT and hit the starter. Sound right? I'll have to fill the bike up with oil and coolant tomorrow, and hopefully have enough time to test before I go to work.
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May 10, 2016 03:50
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Since I'm going to be replacing every bit of tubing on my bike I want to make sure that I keep everything straight and organized. I thought the best way to do that would be to mark each end of hose, wiring, etc with a different color. Does anyone else do this, and if so, what did you use? Nail Polish seems like a good way to get bold color on thickly, and I already have a ton of it laying around. Would it compromise the tubing's integrity?
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May 10, 2016 04:02
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High Protein posted:Re: my 690 Duke's oil consumption; I just did a 1200 mile trip and had to add almost a gallon of oil. Day after tomorrow the dealer's taking a look, I wonder how that'll turn out. At least I've also got a test ride booked on the 1290. The gently caress! I'm pulling the topend on my pile cause it burns 1/4 of that.
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May 10, 2016 04:03
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High Protein posted:Re: my 690 Duke's oil consumption; I just did a 1200 mile trip and had to add almost a gallon of oil. Day after tomorrow the dealer's taking a look, I wonder how that'll turn out. At least I've also got a test ride booked on the 1290. Enjoy your new engine under warranty!
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May 10, 2016 04:33
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Chichevache posted:Since I'm going to be replacing every bit of tubing on my bike I want to make sure that I keep everything straight and organized. I thought the best way to do that would be to mark each end of hose, wiring, etc with a different color. Does anyone else do this, and if so, what did you use? Nail Polish seems like a good way to get bold color on thickly, and I already have a ton of it laying around. Would it compromise the tubing's integrity? I had the same idea but I was going to use masking tape and label everything 1a 1b 2a 2b etc so I can be sure to match everything up.
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May 10, 2016 04:58
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Schroeder91 posted:I had the same idea but I was going to use masking tape and label everything 1a 1b 2a 2b etc so I can be sure to match everything up. I'd be concerned about how long that would last on my bike. No fairings, so water and dust get everywhere.
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May 10, 2016 05:40
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Ooh yeah probably not. My bike is immobile 
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May 10, 2016 05:53
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Schroeder91 posted:Alright, I already have both spark plugs out. It sounds like I just plop the tester into the plug area and twist it in, then with the kill switch off go WOT and hit the starter. Sound right? Yes. The engine will spin very fast with both plugs out, so it'll sound weird. But it will help to see if coolant remnants are squirting out of the hole. Does the tester have a rubbery end? You'll have to press it quite hard against the plug hole, a bit of grease on the tip might help. Ahem.
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May 10, 2016 06:47
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Chichevache posted:Last week I ended up taking my bike home from work in a truck after I discovered coolant all over the front end. Refresher: Ok so quick rundown of how this poo poo works seeing as nobody else is biting. Cooling systems run under pressure because pressurised water has a higher boiling point and this makes sense for reasons. Your radiator cap is the PRV; as soon as you hit more than a certain temperature/pressure (the two are inextricably linked which is why you can't take a cap off a hot engine without hurting yourself) the rubber part of the cap lifts off it's seat on the radiator and allows a small amount of coolant to blip past and into the overflow. Later, when your bike cools down, the cap acts like a one way valve that allows the suction generated by the shrinking coolant to pull coolant back into the system from the overflow. That's why the level in the overflow varies and you're supposed to check it when cold. That screw is an air bleed screw for the cooling system; when you fill it with new coolant, open the screw and fit a few inches of brake bleeding hose to it. This allows you to fill the system to the absolute brim without any air being trapped in the high points. I think the problem with your bike in order of likelihood to be: a. faulty radiator cap that's letting a crapload of coolant escape in the heat, which is then replaced by stuff drawn in from the overflow; this explains most of your issues IMO b. pinhole leak in the radiator that only becomes a problem when the system is pressurised c. torn/cracked/improperly sealing radiator hose, as above. d. radiator fan not kicking in for reasons, leading to excessive temp/pressure e. a combination of the above due to a 'tired' cooling system in general There are like four hoses on your bike and none of them interchange so I wouldn't worry too much about labelling poo poo. With nuts and bolts I tend to put them in little boxes/containers/w.h.y. and group them by subsystem. So for example all the fairing bolts go in one box, all the bolts off the clutch cover go in another and so on. Finer detail than that level is usually needless because it's pretty easy to figure out what goes where based on length/shape and whether you're missing any bolts etc.
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May 10, 2016 07:59
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Thanks for the help. I'm going to go buy a bunch of new hoses for everything tomorrow. Looks like I'll be pulling the carbs too!
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May 10, 2016 08:03
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Chichevache posted:Looks like I'll be pulling the carbs too! haha hahaha HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAHAHAHAHA
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May 10, 2016 08:09
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Slavvy posted:haha It's the only way to reach the fuel line. I spent all afternoon praising the bike for how easy it was to work on. Then that happened. 
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May 10, 2016 08:16
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