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As far as I'm concerned you don't need any brake covered at all times.
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May 16, 2016 15:29
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What maintenance steps do you cheat on? I've been doing my own service on all my bikes, and mostly I've followed the manual to the letter. However, I have never re-lubed the steering or swing arm bearings, only checked play and smoothness. Also I'm supposed to check the air induction system every 10000 km. Only did that when I had the valve cover off for valve inspection. And come on, who the hell replaces brake hoses every four years?
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May 16, 2016 16:26
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The 13k valve check on the sv. Knowing my luck, even though the valves are bulletproof on these engines, it's gonna explode tomorrow. Than I'll have blown up two bikes!
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May 16, 2016 16:32
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My wife learned about replacing brake hoses last trip we took to Sturgis. I tend to skip fork oil and rear brake fluid.
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May 16, 2016 16:33
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Beach Bum posted:Where do most of you folks put you foot controls? (apologies in advance if this is a Adjust the controls until they feel natural to you. For me, this is foot controls at an angle where when I slide my foot forward it is directly over the brake, and my shifter set the same. I'm ok with bending my ankle pretty far forward to get it under the shifter. For hand controls, adjust them so when you're sitting on the bike with your hands on he bars in a position that feels natural, the lever, your wrist, and your elbow are all in a line. A taller/bigger bike will help you feel more comfortable in the long run but tough it out on this one for awhile longer. Once you feel comfortable enough operating a motorcycle, start trying other bikes as well and getting a feel for what is out here. The direction you're gonna wanna go if you want something that feels like it fits is probably adventure/dual sport/supermoto. I skimp on chain maintenance and just replace them every 15k. I used to be so good about it, too.
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May 16, 2016 16:35
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topic)
questions at this thread but it seems the Internet has wildly varying opinions without all that much grounding in logic.
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KARMA! posted:Why the gently caress do you need the rear to be covered 24/7? Are you afraid of looping the bike every time you touch the throttle? That's why I asked, I don't really know and they don't cover customizing the bike to yourself and foot placement at the BRC. clutchpuck posted:As far as I'm concerned you don't need any brake covered at all times. ...which is the same way I drive my cars. Bikes are different in a lot of ways and I just wanted to hear what more experienced riders think/do. Z3n posted:Adjust the controls until they feel natural to you. For me, this is foot controls at an angle where when I slide my foot forward it is directly over the brake, and my shifter set the same. I'm ok with bending my ankle pretty far forward to get it under the shifter. I've already got both hand levers rotated as far forward as they can go (brake line blocking on the brake lever, electrical connector blocking on the clutch) and I still feel like I'd be better suited to another ten to fifteen degrees more, but they're decent where they are and miles better from where they were (pretty much parallel to the ground). Thanks all. Just wanna have fun and be safe.
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May 16, 2016 17:15
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just keep your toes on the pegs until you need them.
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makka-setan posted:What maintenance steps do you cheat on? Oil change. Punch hole in filter, fill with JB weld.
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May 16, 2016 17:45
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My poo poo doesnt run long enough for maintenance intervals. 
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May 16, 2016 17:58
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I have brand new sets of swingarm and steering stem bearings. They've been sitting in the my box of motorcycle things for some time. Still haven't replaced them. I even have the swing bearing removal/install tool.
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May 16, 2016 19:27
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Beach Bum posted:That's why I asked, I don't really know and they don't cover customizing the bike to yourself and foot placement at the BRC. the hidden problem with covering the rear brake is that you'll stomp on it the moment you feel unsafe and locking the rear. Because your foot cannot distinguish the difference between hitting the brakes in a car and braking with the rear on a motorcycle, you'll do a cool skid without bleeding much speed, cocking the bike to one side before it dumps you unceremoniously on the pavement. You'll proudly proclaim you had to "lay 'er down" because you're not smart enough to train yourself out of the habit to re-enact stomp the musical in a panic. (probably not but I took artistic license) But on a serious note, coming from a car you have this instinct that says that your right foot is the thing to use when your in trouble. It's not. The only way to get rid of that habit is to train yourself new ones; swerves, panic brakes, that sort of thing. A gradual application of the front to let the weight transfer to the front so you can brake harder. You've learned how to do them, now make them a habit.
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May 16, 2016 19:30
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One thing I've been messing around with lately as part of my braking drills is figuring out just how much pressure it takes to lock up the rear and turn that into muscle memory. It's basically no pressure at all.
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May 16, 2016 20:15
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I will never do anything to the suspension on my Ninja 250. I do not care enough. Everything else gets done, although the chain's getting a little long in the... tooth.
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May 16, 2016 20:18
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:One thing I've been messing around with lately as part of my braking drills is figuring out just how much pressure it takes to lock up the rear and turn that into muscle memory. It's basically no pressure at all. You can vary how quickly it locks up by fooling around with the pedal pushrod but some bikes are just super locky on the rear brake for whatever reason.
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May 16, 2016 20:41
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KARMA! posted:But on a serious note, coming from a car you have this instinct that says that your right foot is the thing to use when your in trouble. It's not. The only way to get rid of that habit is to train yourself new ones; swerves, panic brakes, that sort of thing. A gradual application of the front to let the weight transfer to the front so you can brake harder. You've learned how to do them, now make them a habit. I had the opposite problem, coming from fifteen years of daily bicycle commuting: I forget about the rear brake's existence, and I had to train myself to not pull in both the front brake and the clutch at the same time. I later switched all my bicycles so that the front brake is on the right, and that seems to have helped.
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May 16, 2016 20:56
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I have been training myself to use the front brake exclusively as I have had the habit of covering the rear at all times. In the few emergency stops I've had I panic and of course use the rear way harder than I should and lock up the rear tire. This has been the year of retraining myself on a lot of things as my confidence has just been shot lately.
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May 16, 2016 22:23
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KARMA! posted:But on a serious note, coming from a car you have this instinct that says that your right foot is the thing to use when your in trouble. It's not. The only way to get rid of that habit is to train yourself new ones; swerves, panic brakes, that sort of thing. A gradual application of the front to let the weight transfer to the front so you can brake harder. You've learned how to do them, now make them a habit. Hm, I've noted that some people also stomp their gear shifter before a crash, but that's left foot. I think there where some of that in the last no prisoners.
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May 16, 2016 22:27
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Slavvy posted:You can vary how quickly it locks up by fooling around with the pedal pushrod but some bikes are just super locky on the rear brake for whatever reason. Yeah, I keep it pretty low because I wear MX boots and can't really feel it that well. It's not like the front brake where you get enough feedback.
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May 16, 2016 23:25
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:HAHAHAHAHA look at this guy talking about battery ethics. That's some unfortunate wording: quote:Lead batteries are crucial to cellphone networks, solar power arrays and the exploding Chinese car market
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May 17, 2016 03:13
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Beach Bum posted:That's why I asked, I don't really know and they don't cover customizing the bike to yourself and foot placement at the BRC. They don't cover that at the BRC because covering the brakes for many new riders means that when they have a panic reaction and stab at the brakes, it insta-locks and they go down. If their hand is wrapped around the bar, they squeeze the poo poo out of the bar, and then move their hand to the brake and apply it.
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May 17, 2016 05:35
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For those of you that do trips - is there an iphone app that'll allow you to import a gpx file and then navigate you through it? Most gpx things seem to be for hiking, gmaps is absolutely incapable even if you save the route to your account, greatestroad just has a list of good routes but no nav.
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May 18, 2016 02:26
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M42 posted:For those of you that do trips - is there an iphone app that'll allow you to import a gpx file and then navigate you through it? Most gpx things seem to be for hiking, gmaps is absolutely incapable even if you save the route to your account, greatestroad just has a list of good routes but no nav. Have you tried osmandmaps?
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May 18, 2016 03:03
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Osmandmaps at least last summer would not keep the backlight on, greatly reducing its usability, maybe they've updated it since then, but I don't know. I wound up using co-rider
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May 18, 2016 05:44
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I think my choke cable might be slipping, is that a thing? The first 50% of lever movement does nothing, and from there moving it to the end only gets me briefly to 3krpm before the engine dies. To actually pull off a cold start I have to jam the lever right into its end stop, and if it springs back even a millimetre the engine will sputter and die like it's not pulling enough fuel. I swear it wasn't always like this.
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May 18, 2016 17:32
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I don't think I've ever used a choke that operated linearly along the whole travel, they were pretty much as you described.
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May 18, 2016 20:34
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Renaissance Robot posted:I think my choke cable might be slipping, is that a thing? The first 50% of lever movement does nothing, and from there moving it to the end only gets me briefly to 3krpm before the engine dies. To actually pull off a cold start I have to jam the lever right into its end stop, and if it springs back even a millimetre the engine will sputter and die like it's not pulling enough fuel. Mine did something very similar. There is an adjustment mechanism on the end of the cable for mine to take out more slack. Check to see if you have something similar. Mine was on the carbs themselves.
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May 18, 2016 21:15
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Actually now I think about it the tank breather might be blocked? Would explain the precise way it struggles to start (though not why it only seems to happen at work and not when I'm leaving the house in the morning). I'll try opening the tank cap before starting it tomorrow afternoon and see if that changes its behaviour at all. I mean it's 15'c outside, it shouldn't need full choke to start. e/ yeah no, it's got to be that, because even when I pull it all the way out it still struggles to pick up the revs, and when I twist the throttle there's a ton of lag and/or really weak response like it just isn't getting fuel. Still can't think why it's okay at home though. Hrm. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 22:21 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 22:18
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I've been delaying selling my klr650 due to some minor oil leakage and the fact that a headlight is out and I can't seem to take the front off to replace it BUT Today I went to replace the oil plug bolt with a new one (and a new crush washer) and the bolt just spins and spins and doesn't come out  Just how screwed am I? I guess I need to drill it out, or something? Hope the case isn't cracked yeah? Anyone wanna buy a klr that needs a little TLC? :bigtran:
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May 19, 2016 03:24
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I bought some LED turn signals and when I sat down to do some soldering I noyiced they came with these terminals at the end of the wire. What are these? I don't want to just clip them off and solder below them if they're usable. Sorry I know this isn't 100% a motorcycle question.
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May 19, 2016 03:31
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They look like bullet connectors. I don't use them myself, just clip them off and use something better.
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May 19, 2016 03:36
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Yeah they're bullet connectors. hack em off if you want and use something less lovely, or run em.
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May 19, 2016 03:42
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Thd engine I wanted sold the night before I was going to get it, so now I gotta figure out which one I want. How bad of an idea is buying an engine with unknown mileage? Engine in question I contacted them and they said it came from an insurance write off and the mileage is unknown but it ran fine. It looks good and they have a 100 rating on eBay so I imagine they don't gently caress people over. Other option from before Called, 59,000 miles on it. I could live with that if they would've accepted my offer of $700, but instead they wanted me to call and work something out and then let the offer expire. Third option, 59000 miles, video of it running, but the idle is high The idle is at 2600 and the Vstrom 1000 is supposed to be about 1100. I don't know if this is an engine problem or just a poorly adjusted idle or something else. The first one is tempting because it'll be here in a week and could possibly be low mileage, but could be high. Also the cheapest. Someone help me choose
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May 19, 2016 03:44
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Have em do a leakdown on it. pull the oilpan (if it has one) and the valve cover and shoot you, and us pics. If they'd also test oil pressure, awesome, if not, well not the end of the world, lobe wear can be an indirect indicator.
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May 19, 2016 03:51
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[quote=] They look like bullet connectors. I don't use them myself, just clip them off and use something better. Yeah they're bullet connectors. hack em off if you want and use something less lovely, or run em. [/quote] Thanks again lads.
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May 19, 2016 03:56
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I don't think I've ever seen someone do that nor would I bother. Low mileage engine just get it, check the top end and get a refund if the engine is hosed. Waiting around is the wrong move.
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May 19, 2016 03:56
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I don't think any of the DL1000 engines on eBay are low mileage. I think they all break 50k. I should've bought that one with 29k..but I waited  I think I'll order that one with unknown mileage. What do you do when getting a new engine and one with different/unknown mileage? I was told to tell the DMV so they know it's not a stolen engine, anything else?
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May 19, 2016 04:41
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tranten posted:I've been delaying selling my klr650 due to some minor oil leakage and the fact that a headlight is out and I can't seem to take the front off to replace it BUT Use a screwdriver or similar to apply levering pressure while undoing and you should be able to get it out. The threads are hosed and will need helicoiling or enlarging to a bigger hole + plug depending on the amount of meat left around the hole.
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May 19, 2016 05:00
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Schroeder91 posted:I should've bought that one with 29k..but I waited The first rule of used bikes/parts is never wait.
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May 19, 2016 05:30
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Phrasing posted:I bought some LED turn signals and when I sat down to do some soldering I noyiced they came with these terminals at the end of the wire. Looks like other people don't like bullet connectors , but I personally like to keep the wiring harness as OEM as possible. You can buy spares here http://www.cycleterminal.com/bullet-connectors.html
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May 19, 2016 14:29
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Schroeder91 posted:What do you do when getting a new engine and one with different/unknown mileage? I was told to tell the DMV so they know it's not a stolen engine, anything else? I don't know what state you're in, but if I tried to tell the DMV I was putting a new engine in my bike they'd probably look at me like I have three heads and ask why I'm telling them this.
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May 19, 2016 14:59
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Sagebrush posted:Looks like other people don't like bullet connectors , but I personally like to keep the wiring harness as OEM as possible. You can buy spares here http://www.cycleterminal.com/bullet-connectors.html I've not seen bullet connectors on the factory pieces. They have always been on the aftermarket stuff. I usually cut the connector off the stock turn signals and splice those onto the aftermarket signals. That way I don't have to do any modifications to the bike wiring.
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May 19, 2016 16:16
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