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IOwnCalculus posted:Yes it will. My goddamn Jeep has been cheaper to run than my MS3 was. It is a pretty sweet song. I have a lot of money in savings right now and it's been very difficult to not spend money on the 6.
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May 9, 2016 03:05
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Rhyno posted:Trust me dude, that song will kill your wallet. My MS3 is barely different on fuel than my brothers '05 2.3 6 (manual too) I don't think it's at all bad for a car of that performance level
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May 9, 2016 08:27
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dissss posted:My MS3 is barely different on fuel than my brothers '05 2.3 6 (manual too) Sorry, I was referring to what a modded by a previous owner MS6 would do to his wallet. Yet another cheap as hell regular 6 has popped up on my radar. I'm thinking it might be a viable option as a beater DD.
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May 9, 2016 20:03
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It wasn't fuel for me (though that didn't help), it was everything else that thing consumed.
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May 9, 2016 20:22
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Is there a brand recommendation for timing belt/ water pump/etc. for a Protégé 5? I'm Helping a guy at work that needs it done.
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May 9, 2016 20:38
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Elmnt80 posted:I'm looking at getting a mazda 6 to replace my truck. Preferably a V6 or a turbo 2.3 if I can find one in my price range (which I don't know yet, but should be in the 6-7k range), and probably from 03-07 with years. Is there anything I need to be on the lookout for with common issues? How is the reliability with them? Rust shouldn't be a major problem with me living in florida, but if someone could point out the best places to check, it would be much appreciated. The 2.3 turbos have premature timing chain failures where they stretch out and slap against the valve cover. Also the VVT actuators break. Also the turbos leak oil. Let it idle for 10 minutes and see if it starts smoking out the exhaust, if it does you need a turbo. Also check for oil leaking from the oil cooler housing. The 3.0 V6 leaks oil too, usually from the timing cover gasket and/or crank seal, and almost always from the oil pan gasket. Plan on around $1000-1200 for a shop to fix the oil leak. Ignintion coils like to fail on these but they're easy enough to replace. Vacuum leaks seem to be fairly common as well. As someone already stated, I'd avoid anything modified. Timmy Cruise posted:Is there a brand recommendation for timing belt/ water pump/etc. for a Protégé 5? I'm Helping a guy at work that needs it done. I think Gates is usually the recommended brand. Sex Weirdo fucked around with this message at 22:35 on May 9, 2016 |
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May 9, 2016 22:30
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Hngggg. Just had a full alignment done and some of my suspension components are so rusted they couldn't get them to unseize.
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May 9, 2016 23:10
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Gah. So a few weekends ago I changed pads/rotors on the back, and now I'm hearing a loud-rear end *CLANK* every time I hit a bump in the road from the back-rear quarter. I took the wheel off last night and checked all the brake components were tight (obviously the rotor was loose with the wheel off) and there didn't seem to be any play in suspension components. Tried taking it to the Mazda dealer but they wanted 110 bucks just to diagnose it.
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May 14, 2016 16:13
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The radiator on my 2.5L Skyactiv is loose. Is this normal? Like I can reach in and move my radiator back and forth a small amount.
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May 14, 2016 18:12
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Usually radiators are mounted to the upper and lower supports using rubber bushings, which are intended to allow the radiator to move slightly. Basically, it shouldn't be immobile but at the same time you shouldn't be able to move it more than a half inch or so in any given direction.
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May 14, 2016 23:40
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Well, found out what that banging noise I was hearing was. Rear shock mounts busted loose. I suppose after 8 years and 125k km it was bound to happen eventually. Mazda3s are really solid little commuter cars. Sure I'm getting some weird rattles here and there but the car is 8 years old after all. Other than the occasional bushing and now the suspension, it's needed basically no additional parts replaced.
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May 17, 2016 14:17
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Rust or did it just happen? Mine is 10 years old :P
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May 18, 2016 01:25
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CharlesM posted:Rust or did it just happen? Mine is 10 years old :P I live in SW Ontario. That is the only answer to that question you need. Mechanic at the shop (Slavic dude) basically said "You're lucky we got to it now. Another year, we need torch." And then he tried to talk me into front suspension. Yeah no, not for a thousand bucks bud.
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May 18, 2016 01:54
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So looking at a Speed3, aside from the obvious of anything that isn't stock and body rust, just check the engine mounts and strut mounts, check the TSB's and turbo smoke? How reliable are they if you don't mess with them? It looked all stock but I won't know for sure until it's actually traded in e: this car is at like 105k IIRC too, how scared should I be of that
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May 22, 2016 19:44
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I feel like 90% of buying a used MS3 would be getting a really good read on whether or not the previous owner was a twat. Sometimes its easy to tell if it has awful crooked stickers up and down the windshield or the sides of the Mazda logo were hacked off on the badges, but other times may not be as obvious.
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May 22, 2016 22:41
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Huh so I think I'm due for another slave cylinder? 08 MS3. My first one went out at 75k and I'm at 116 now. Similar symptoms where my ebrake light comes on randomly though I haven't seen any liquid pooling beneath my car.
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May 22, 2016 22:45
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You mean your clutch slave cylinder, right? Why would that cause the ebrake light to come on?
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May 22, 2016 22:59
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MetaJew posted:You mean your clutch slave cylinder, right? Yes, clutch slave cylinder. I remember when I first read about this problem, MSF mentioned that the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs are the same. I'd be checking to see if the car is leaking brake fluid. e: post 16 http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f106/clutch-master-slave-cylinder-repacement-questions-114669/ air- fucked around with this message at 23:21 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 23:16
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It's a shared reservoir, I think. At least some of the problems I had with my MS3 were early-production issues (like the throttle body). I'd seriously recommend replacing the engine mounts with aftermarket, it makes the car soooo much better. At 105k the car will absolutely need the intake valves cleaned if it hasn't been done before.
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May 22, 2016 23:17
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air- posted:Yes, clutch slave cylinder. I remember when I first read about this problem, MSF mentioned that the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs are the same. I'd be checking to see if the car is leaking brake fluid. Oh, I see what you're saying. Yes, the reservoir is shared, and the pickup for the clutch master cylinder is higher than the BMC, so if you're losing fluid i could see why the clutch would start acting up. However, a low brake fluid light should be separate from the ebrake light, no? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 23:41 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 23:33
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I got the bent rims fixed up and took the car to the tire place to rotate/balance afterwards. I mentioned that the dealership noted some wear on the tires and the tech at the tire shop said that Mazdas are known for wearing tires a little weird. Is that true? Because when I asked if it was going to be covered by the warranty on the tires he told me it's a "manufacturing defect" of the car despite getting the alignment checked every time I go in for an oil change.
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May 22, 2016 23:49
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My 2007 MS3 ate the inside corners of the tires no matter what I did on alignment. The factory setup has a lot of static camber (which isn't adjustable) so unless you dial it out with aftermarket parts, you will probably do the same if your commute is as ruler-straight* as mine. *Approximately 30 miles, with about 10 turns including parking 
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May 23, 2016 00:56
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MetaJew posted:However, a low brake fluid light should be separate from the ebrake light, no? No, they're the same.
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May 23, 2016 01:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:My 2007 MS3 ate the inside corners of the tires no matter what I did on alignment. The factory setup has a lot of static camber (which isn't adjustable) so unless you dial it out with aftermarket parts, you will probably do the same if your commute is as ruler-straight* as mine. Yep, rear camber arms got me way better tread wear and I'd even push for that as an essential mod. air- fucked around with this message at 01:15 on May 23, 2016 |
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May 23, 2016 01:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:My 2007 MS3 ate the inside corners of the tires no matter what I did on alignment. The factory setup has a lot of static camber (which isn't adjustable) so unless you dial it out with aftermarket parts, you will probably do the same if your commute is as ruler-straight* as mine. My R53 chewed through front tires bad too. The S2000 has actually been really loving good about it somehow, in spite of how hard I take turns sometimes. My summer fronts are still good from two years ago and I only replaced my set of rears because I keep running over nails somehow
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May 23, 2016 02:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:My 2007 MS3 ate the inside corners of the tires no matter what I did on alignment. The factory setup has a lot of static camber (which isn't adjustable) so unless you dial it out with aftermarket parts, you will probably do the same if your commute is as ruler-straight* as mine. About 7mi one-way for me, roughly the same number of turns. Bummer. Thanks for the info though!
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May 23, 2016 19:24
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For what it's worth, it would do it front and rear. In hindsight, I would've done all of this on that car ASAP: *Spin-on filter conversion, just for the time saved alone, let alone the cost of those stupid cartridges *Rear motor mount, probably would've saved my factory upper from failing *Adjustable camber front/rear, whatever mods that would've taken, plus an alignment *17" wheels for lower weight and cheaper tires Also, tracked / autocrossed it a lot more.
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May 24, 2016 00:49
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Jesus gently caress if putting the rear camber arms in isn't a massive bitch though. Almost worth chewing up tires over. Driver's side is fine, you can zip it in and out with an impact wrench and a couple of extensions/universal joints. But the passenger side? There's a bunch of evaporative bullshit in the way and the only way to remove the bolt holding the top of the nut on is to use either a ratcheting box wrench with maybe 10 degrees of travel before running out of room. Took me over two hours to do both on my brother's MS3 and over 90% of that time was on the passenger side.
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May 24, 2016 03:20
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Did a key swap this morning and futzed around in an 2009 MS3 for an hour and poo poo, I think I might have bought the wrong car 5 years ago. The MS3 is just far more nimble than my MS6 and it the size of the car just fit me so much better. OH WELL NO RAGRETS
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Jun 5, 2016 20:53
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I love my '16 GTI. Day in and day out, 8 times out of 10, it's a more pleasant and stable car to drive. Road noise, ability to handle bad roads, usable low end power, it's just easier. But drat if at least once a day I don't find myself I wishing I still had my '13 Speed3. Dropping gears in the GTI just isn't the same. I've got my spare key fob sitting on my desk. Anybody in Maryland /the DC metro area with a second gen Speed3 want to do a key swap with a GTI?
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Jun 5, 2016 21:17
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Rhyno posted:Did a key swap this morning and futzed around in an 2009 MS3 for an hour and poo poo, I think I might have bought the wrong car 5 years ago. The MS3 is just far more nimble than my MS6 and it the size of the car just fit me so much better. Considering I'm used to my '10 Ranger or my '06 X-trail, driving my wife's '15 6 GT is almost like a go-cart. God it's fun, and so smooth to shift (Yeah, the Ranger is downright agricultural in gearing, and prone to be top heavy, and has a lovely clutch, and and and...)
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Jun 5, 2016 21:24
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The front of this Matra really reminds me of the front of the ND (or vice versa) http://bringatrailer.com/2016/06/03/targa-top-v4-nicely-restored-1970-matra-530-lx/
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Jun 6, 2016 06:18
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 This would be a bad idea. It would. ...right?
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Jun 6, 2016 23:50
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:
Who told you that?
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Jun 7, 2016 05:52
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Probably anybody who's had one. I think DJ Commie has like 2 or 3, dunno if he ever posts here anymore.
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Jun 7, 2016 07:47
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:
I can almost guarantee you that the motor is just about gone (turbo is also likely blown), with the piston knock and previous owner junking it. If you can give it a ride around the block, put the pedal down and see if the performance has been drained from its pickup. Might want to find out why the hood won't latch, either.
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Jun 7, 2016 12:48
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He can just get 14" to fly out to him and help him rebuild it! That's how we do projects in AI now!
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Jun 8, 2016 01:24
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-323-GTX-/152113447195?forcerrptr=true&hash=item236aab011b:g:MlAAAOSwLnBXUKlg&item=152113447195 There's another one on ebay right now, also in poor condition. Someone buy them both and combine them into one good vehicle.
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Jun 8, 2016 04:27
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GTXs are a fickle beast and had some fragility in them when new, now they are usually completely destroyed by bad maintenance and abuse. Any of the really robust parts are now worn out, I wouldn't buy a cheap GTX in a million years without first checking the transmission AND transfer case oils. That said, I bought one in similar condition with a blown engine and transmission, and since I had stocked up a spare drivetrain half a decade ago, I have a running GTX with a trashed interior and $1000 left to buy in parts to get streetable. I wouldn't touch it unless you feel like buying a $2500 JDM BPT (1.8L Turbo) and transmission before you do anything else. Only some wear items are still available, and some part like shocks are completely NLA. Honestly if you want a GTX, buy a JDM import BG-chassis Familia GTX (or GTR if you are awesome). $10k will get you 210hp with limited slip diffs and a ball bearing turbo, far exceeding what $10k into a US market BF GTX could do. I'm actually building mine into a California Rally Series stock 4WD RallyCross car to get stomped by 15 year old Subarus.
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Jun 12, 2016 20:26
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DJ Commie posted:GTXs are a fickle beast and had some fragility in them when new, now they are usually completely destroyed by bad maintenance and abuse. Any of the really robust parts are now worn out, I wouldn't buy a cheap GTX in a million years without first checking the transmission AND transfer case oils. That said, I bought one in similar condition with a blown engine and transmission, and since I had stocked up a spare drivetrain half a decade ago, I have a running GTX with a trashed interior and $1000 left to buy in parts to get streetable. I wouldn't touch it unless you feel like buying a $2500 JDM BPT (1.8L Turbo) and transmission before you do anything else. Only some wear items are still available, and some part like shocks are completely NLA. Do you still post about racing and building that car? Cosworthless always made me smile.
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Jun 12, 2016 21:16
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