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tranten posted:I've been delaying selling my klr650 due to some minor oil leakage and the fact that a headlight is out and I can't seem to take the front off to replace it BUT On my very first oil change of my 14 KLR, I, like a total moron, over tightened my drain plug and stripped the poo poo out of it. I ended up buying some self tapping oil drain plugs that are for just the occasion, and it worked great. From what I've read, the stock bolt is pretty hard and the stock oil pan is soft, so there are a ton of people online with this problem. I ordered this one, specifically: http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-090-174-Oversize-Drain-Plug/dp/B002ESCY3W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage No leaks. I haven't taken it back out yet though. Hopefully that goes well.
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May 19, 2016 16:52
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Kastivich posted:I've not seen bullet connectors on the factory pieces. They have always been on the aftermarket stuff. I usually cut the connector off the stock turn signals and splice those onto the aftermarket signals. That way I don't have to do any modifications to the bike wiring. All my after market signals have bullet connectors and work just fine. I bought the adaptors that hook then into the wiring harness. Never had any issues.
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May 19, 2016 17:02
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I guess it depends on the age of the bike. Both of my bikes use bullet connectors everywhere ('71 and '88). I've replaced a few with Molex connectors where it seemed appropriate, but that can be annoying because the wiring sometimes has to run through a tiny little grommet or hollow bolt or whatever, and anything larger than a bullet connector won't fit through.
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May 19, 2016 18:24
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OMGMYSPLEEN posted:From what I've read, the stock bolt is pretty hard and the stock oil pan is soft, so there are a ton of people online with this problem.
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May 19, 2016 18:26
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Isn't that just asking for galvanic corrosion to lock all your bolts in place? (disclaimer: I have no idea how that junk works, I'm just vaguely aware that having mismatched metals touching each other is bad)
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May 19, 2016 18:29
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Anti seize paste isn't terribly expensive or rare, you know.
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May 19, 2016 18:35
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As an F150 owner I don't want to hear about galvanic corrosion.
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May 19, 2016 18:36
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Renaissance Robot posted:Isn't that just asking for galvanic corrosion to lock all your bolts in place? (disclaimer: I have no idea how that junk works, I'm just vaguely aware that having mismatched metals touching each other is bad) Nah not really. Like, it does happen but unless you like parking in the sea it makes no real difference. Spleen's problem is that either him or the PO was a hamfisted retard who overtightened the drain plug and stripped the threads, a potential problem on basically every bike AFAIK because you have to go pretty loving far back to find something with a steel engine casing.
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May 19, 2016 20:36
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HAMAS HATE BOAT posted:It's a common problem on millions of vehicles because bolts are made of steel and engines are more and more frequently made of aluminum. While this is true, I was just making the point that I have read that it's a particularly large problem on KLR's specifically.
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May 19, 2016 20:40
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OMGMYSPLEEN posted:While this is true, I was just making the point that I have read that it's a particularly large problem on KLR's specifically. I'm willing to bet you could google any one of a dozen models and decide it's a particularly large problem, but it isn't. Of the tens of thousands of people with that bike running around, there will be a few hundred hamfisted dumb cunts who strip their drain plug then whine about it on the internet like it's kawasaki's fault. It's like this for every model; if you believe the internet there's no such thing as a reliable bike because they all have some sort of critical flaw that's been 'well documented' but never seen IRL by an actual mechanic.
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May 19, 2016 21:03
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I first heard about it from an Audi tech who was worried because a previous oil changer had overtorqued the drain bolt in the aluminum oil pan. Klrs just happen to be owned by a class which tends to be older and cheap, do their own work, and cut corners because it's just a klr and its so strong and rugged and you can fix it with rocks and sticks in a village in Africa where you're definitely riding across because you have a klr. It's an enthusiastic and vocal owners group. It's also a group that can probably be reasonably suspected of considering a torque wrench an extravagant purchase.
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May 19, 2016 21:55
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You'll have to forgive the KLR owners, they don't have any judgement to use on how much they should torque a thing and it's awful hard to make an accurate torque wrench out of pvc.
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May 20, 2016 00:30
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drat, tough crowd!
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May 20, 2016 00:51
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Slavvy posted:I'm willing to bet you could google any one of a dozen models and decide it's a particularly large problem, but it isn't. Of the tens of thousands of people with that bike running around, there will be a few hundred hamfisted dumb cunts who strip their drain plug then whine about it on the internet like it's kawasaki's fault. It's like this for every model; if you believe the internet there's no such thing as a reliable bike because they all have some sort of critical flaw that's been 'well documented' but never seen IRL by an actual mechanic. Honda/Yamaha R/Rs?
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May 20, 2016 01:01
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OMGMYSPLEEN posted:drat, tough crowd! Yeah, but speaking as the person who brought up KLR's this time around, they're pretty much on point. I probably didn't replace the crush washer last time I did an oil change and then over-torqued it. I'll try the screwdriver trick, now that I know that could possibly work, thanks!
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May 20, 2016 06:56
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Is this the unicorn I think it might be? Obviously the engine is probably going to need to be replaced completely, but I should at least be able to part it out if the restore price is too high. DOES NOT RUN: 2004 Ninja 250R - $300 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/5592517509.html
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May 21, 2016 00:12
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Chichevache posted:Is this the unicorn I think it might be? Obviously the engine is probably going to need to be replaced completely, but I should at least be able to part it out if the restore price is too high. Yes, but of all the people who should be fixing up destroyed bikes...
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May 21, 2016 04:54
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builds character posted:Yes, but of all the people who should be fixing up destroyed bikes... The engine is already destroyed, there's nothing else I can do to it..... Right? 
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May 21, 2016 05:05
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Looks like a heap of poo poo to me  not worth it seeing as you aren't a learner and it isn't a high value bike in your market AFAIK.
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May 21, 2016 05:47
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If I recall your reason for the project correctly, seems good to me.
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May 21, 2016 07:01
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Slavvy posted:Looks like a heap of poo poo to me The bike is actually for multiple people to learn on. A quick ebay search showed me some cheap 250 engines too, so I can hopefully get this running for under 1500.  I figure I can at least make 300 in parts if worst comes to worst and I scrap it. Edit I barely missed out on a "running" Honda Rebel for 200. Dublé edit I got an email from the company that made my radiator. quote:Hi Chichevache. Well, I'm more confident than ever that this will be a fantastic purchase! Chichevache fucked around with this message at 09:09 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 08:01
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Pretty sure that's the same form letter every Chinesium part seller on eBay uses.
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May 22, 2016 04:31
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What's the easiest way to get a motorcycle insured in California without getting screwed on price? I want to pick up a new or used one this Tuesday and ride it out. Do quoted prices for new bikes (what you see on the site) include taxes? If I get a used from a dealership, does that entail taxes as well? Thanks!
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May 22, 2016 04:56
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Kane posted:Do quoted prices for new bikes (what you see on the site) include taxes? Based on my personal experiences with the wonderful scene in socal: nope, and nope.
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May 22, 2016 05:40
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Kane posted:Do quoted prices for new bikes (what you see on the site) include taxes? No, and a lot of places will tack on a delivery + setup fee on top of that which can be like $400 get a used CBR500
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May 22, 2016 05:53
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Kane posted:What's the easiest way to get a motorcycle insured in California without getting screwed on price? I want to pick up a new or used one this Tuesday and ride it out. Do you have an insurance agent? I just called mine and asked her what the rates would be while looking at bieks.
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May 22, 2016 07:09
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Pope Mobile posted:Do you have an insurance agent? I just called mine and asked her what the rates would be while looking at bieks. I do not! Sounds like getting a new one is suicidal, then. (thinking of getting a Duke 690) Where I'm from it's the norm to take the bike to the shop for a round of exhaustive tests to make sure it's all in good condition, otherwise the price drops to reflect whatever has to be fixed (now or in the near-term future). Is it the case around the Bay Area as well?
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May 22, 2016 15:31
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This is my experience from buying in Washington, but unless you're getting the bike for a price "out the door" you're still going to pay for licensing, registration, taxes, etc. The sticker price or whatever you and the dealer have decided on is what you're going to pay before all the extra stuff. You can negotiate the dealer into paying all the fees, it just depends on who's selling to you. As for insurance, it's not hard to get insured. A lot of the cost depends on the type of bike.
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May 22, 2016 19:57
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Speaking of insurance, what level of coverage do you guys go for? I had my insurance agent quote me a price using my current auto insurance coverage but I'm thinking coverages that (I think) are suitable for a car may be overkill for a motorcycle: The total amount is $561/yr, and to be honest I'm fine with it, but do you guys think this is overkill?
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May 24, 2016 05:59
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Doesn't it cost like a minimum of 12 grand to put a bandaid on a skinned knee in a US hospital? Those limits seem really low, but then again I'm in Ontario where you pretty much have 1 million liability as a minimum, and insurance is stupidly expensive.
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May 24, 2016 06:04
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IAmKale posted:I'm thinking coverages that (I think) are suitable for a car may be overkill for a motorcycle: I wouldn't say the odds of requiring expensive medical care are lower on a motorcycle. Wot linedance said - if you're planning on surviving a spill without a lifetime of debt ahead of you, you're going to want more coverage than that. prukinski fucked around with this message at 06:14 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 06:12
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cursedshitbox posted:Got em at work. Bug me tuesday and ill grab some photos and one for you. Yooo I forgot about this. Still available?
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May 24, 2016 13:34
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IAmKale posted:Speaking of insurance, what level of coverage do you guys go for? I had my insurance agent quote me a price using my current auto insurance coverage but I'm thinking coverages that (I think) are suitable for a car may be overkill for a motorcycle: That seems a bit low to me. I went $250 deductible and 100k/250k property/medical and my insurance was about $500/year. I just renewed for liability only (bike is in pieces in the garage) and it was $120/year.
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May 24, 2016 13:39
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IAmKale posted:Speaking of insurance, what level of coverage do you guys go for? I had my insurance agent quote me a price using my current auto insurance coverage but I'm thinking coverages that (I think) are suitable for a car may be overkill for a motorcycle: Licensed Insurance Agent here. I can't advise you on specific limits without knowing more about your specific situations. However, I can observe that those liability limits are on the very low end of the spectrum - for both car and motorcycle. I also have some observations below that might help you decide what coverage you would like. For the record - I carry 100/300/100 coverage on my car and motorcycle. Ask anyone who has been to a hospital what their non-adjusted bill was. If you're at the fault in the accident, then that person's insurance company is going to sue you for that amount plus ALAE. Guest Liability and Colission are both driving your premium up. Do you actually carry passengers on your motorcycle? If not, then you might be able to drop Guest Liab. Also, if the only passenger you carry is a wife/spouse/someone on your medical insurance, then you might be able to drop it. Ask your insurance agent to make sure you need that coverage. Keep the comprehensive coverage. It's the only theft protection that matters. The $500 deductible might be low. You could probably save some scratch by taking it up to $1000 or whatever you're comfortable with paying out in the event of a loss. Your collision coverage costs $222 a year. drat - your bike must be nicer than mine. Consider going with a higher deductible to save money if you think your premium is high. This will also depend on the value of your bike. Let me know if you have questions on why I'm saying the things I am. On a side note - do we want a dedicated insurance thread? I might be willing to do an OP if people think it'd be helpful.
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May 24, 2016 15:35
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Yeah, an insurance thread would be great!
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May 24, 2016 15:42
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Fishvilla posted:On a side note - do we want a dedicated insurance thread? I might be willing to do an OP if people think it'd be helpful. There's one in AI, for what it's worth, but it hasn't had any traffic for a month. Edit: make that a year, I'm stuck in the past 
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 15:54 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 15:47
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So I'm super confused as to what's going on here. 83 Suzuki GR 650. Swapped out my front sprocket/chain/rear sprocket last week and cleaned everything up/adjusted my cables/lubed everything. Now when I clutch in, or pop the bike in neutral and roll it backwards (only backwards) I get this 'popping' in my clutch and the cable just binds up or goes slack randomly, this also sometimes occasionally happens when I pull the cable in. The cable sheath will also occasionally pop out from its slot at at the lever or at the clutch cover. When I did the front sprocket I did clean out the area inside the cover and I'm wondering if this couldn't be caused by some road gunk getting in where the clutch pin fits into the transmission housing. Turning the fork one way or the other doesn't seem to affect it, so I don't think it has anything to do with the route the cable is running below the tank. I did notice when I pulled the clutch cover off the spring seemed to be in pretty rough shape, I'm going to throw the one from the parts bike on and see if that changes anything because that spring is in excellent shape. The chain is a little tighter than it should be. I'll be fixing that tomorrow when I'm off. I'll try to get some video of it happening to see if that helps.
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May 24, 2016 16:00
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Fishvilla posted:On a side note - do we want a dedicated insurance thread? I might be willing to do an OP if people think it'd be helpful. YES. Could even be a sticky just so it doesn't disappear due to slumps in activity.
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May 24, 2016 16:02
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Beach Bum posted:There's one in AI, for what it's worth, but it hasn't had any traffic for a month. Ahh okay - good find. That was my fear with a potential CA Insurance thread. It's probably just as easy to field questions in the various motorcycle threads as they come up.
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May 24, 2016 16:26
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IAmKale posted:Speaking of insurance, what level of coverage do you guys go for? I had my insurance agent quote me a price using my current auto insurance coverage but I'm thinking coverages that (I think) are suitable for a car may be overkill for a motorcycle: I go with a $500,000 combined single limit for BI and PD liability. Partly because it isn't much more expensive than 50k/100k/25k and partly because I need the high limit for the umbrella policy.
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May 24, 2016 16:41
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