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I always thought it was interesting how Bike magazine (the UK one) quoted insurance rates along with bike prices when doing reviews. I wish we had some magazines in the US with that more practical transport focus.
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May 24, 2016 17:54
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So I just gave a call to K&B Motorcycles Petaluma and inquired re: taxes. The price they asked (for a used motorcycle) doesn't include the sales tax or the "docking fee" + ownership transfer. Is that normal?
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May 24, 2016 18:35
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Fishvilla posted:Licensed Insurance Agent here. Care to give me a call? I need some help setting up insurance in CA with a foreign license. I got one quote which seems unreasonably high. Kane fucked around with this message at 22:23 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 18:37
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Anyone have any experience with Triumph Tigers? Guy at work has one with ~20k of commuting on it and the rear shock is weeping oil. Dealer says it's wear and tear so not covered under warranty, but they can replace it for £750. Now for a start, I wouldn't call 20,000 miles an outlandish amount, and certainly not enough for a shock seal to have deteriorated to the point that it starts visibly losing oil, but does anyone know if this is a common vice? Also how much of a ballache is replacing the rear shock on one of them? Because to my way of thinking unless it's one of those BMW-esque "start by removing the front wheel" 12 hours of labour jobs, he could get a Nitron unit and have it fitted for way less than that.
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May 24, 2016 18:38
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predictive posted:I always thought it was interesting how Bike magazine (the UK one) quoted insurance rates along with bike prices when doing reviews. I wish we had some magazines in the US with that more practical transport focus. Those numbers (along with any other number to do with the UK insurance market) might as well come out of a random number generator.
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May 24, 2016 18:39
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Kane posted:Care to give me a call? I need some help setting up insurance in CA with a foreign license. I got one quote which seems unreasonably high. I'm at 6504268187 . Unfortunately, I can't write business in CA. My general advise if you have a bad quote is to go get multiple other quotes. Grab a beer and fill out a bunch of applications online for insurance. you'll pretty quickly find more competitive rates and have a better idea of what it should cost to insure your bike.
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May 24, 2016 20:30
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Those numbers (along with any other number to do with the UK insurance market) might as well come out of a random number generator. I wouldn't say that, they give you a ballpark at least, especially if you're a new rider. Knowing that a bike is group 16 at least tells you it will be more expensive to insure than one in group 8. And since what bikes go in what groups is arbitrarily decided by a random number generator, that information is useful. Over on this side of the pond you pretty much have to phone up a broker and ask "how much for this bike? OK, how much for this one? And how much for this?" without any guidance at all.
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May 24, 2016 21:10
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Anyone have any experience with Triumph Tigers? Guy at work has one with ~20k of commuting on it and the rear shock is weeping oil. Dealer says it's wear and tear so not covered under warranty, but they can replace it for £750. Haha what? How is 'riding the bike' wear and tear? That sounds like standard dealership bullshit and your friend should immediately and loudly start complaining to the distributor or parent company or whoever it is that supplies the dealerships with the bikes they don't want to honor the warranty on. Whether it's a common thing or not is irrelevant, shocks aren't a wear item as far as warranties go.
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May 24, 2016 21:54
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For that price you can get some pretty pimp aftermarket shocks - and very decent ones for way less, probably all better than stock. Wilbers and Hyperpro are popular brands. http://www.performanceparts-ltd.com/road/triumph/974_tiger-800/2014/categories/suspension-and-handling/hyperpro-shocks--springs/TR08-0AB I don't think they're very difficult to work on, but those sellers might be worth asking because they can help tune the shock just right for him.
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May 24, 2016 22:38
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Slavvy posted:Haha what? How is 'riding the bike' wear and tear? That sounds like standard dealership bullshit and your friend should immediately and loudly start complaining to the distributor or parent company or whoever it is that supplies the dealerships with the bikes they don't want to honor the warranty on. Whether it's a common thing or not is irrelevant, shocks aren't a wear item as far as warranties go. He's convinced that it's actually caused by the (six!) times he's dropped it (which if true would make it even loving worse because unless he's dropped it onto it's wheels from the top of the Empire State Building the shock still shouldn't even have noticed), so he's unwilling to push it. Another guy in the office is actually pretty in with another Triumph dealer so I'm going to at least get them to take it there for a second opinion. Ola posted:For that price you can get some pretty pimp aftermarket shocks - and very decent ones for way less, probably all better than stock. Wilbers and Hyperpro are popular brands. http://www.performanceparts-ltd.com/road/triumph/974_tiger-800/2014/categories/suspension-and-handling/hyperpro-shocks--springs/TR08-0AB I think I might have got him sold on just replacing it with a proper rear shock with remote preload as his wife wants to start going out on it with him at the weekend. He's a project manager so the idea of throwing money at a problem to make it go away appeals to him... At least I finally got him to admit that the real reason he bought the bike is because he likes the way it looks (and couldn't afford a GSA). This was after 9 months of him claiming - with increasingly desperate use of spreadsheets - that it was in fact a far more practical choice than an NC or ER-6. I'll have him on a Hyperstrada by next year.
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May 24, 2016 23:30
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What's the CA approved method of removing rust from the inside of a gas tank? My buddy bought a "fixer" SV and now I get to help him get it rideable. He's also trying to ask 6,500 for his fz09 which is WAY high.
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May 25, 2016 12:48
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XYLOPAGUS posted:What's the CA approved method of removing rust from the inside of a gas tank? My buddy bought a "fixer" SV and now I get to help him get it rideable. Electrolysis or bust: http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-From-A-Motorcycle-Gas-Ta/?ALLSTEPS I've done it twice now with great success.
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May 25, 2016 12:57
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Slavvy posted:Haha what? How is 'riding the bike' wear and tear? That sounds like standard dealership bullshit and your friend should immediately and loudly start complaining to the distributor or parent company or whoever it is that supplies the dealerships with the bikes they don't want to honor the warranty on. Whether it's a common thing or not is irrelevant, shocks aren't a wear item as far as warranties go. I bought a '09 Royal Star Venture (17K mi) back in February from a small dealer in central MA, and specifically bought an extended warranty because the rear monoshock (about $550 dealer cost for the OEM part) is a common failure item, and the brochure stated that the warranty covered "front and rear suspension". After a couple weeks I noticed that the shock was weeping oil around the bellows seal at the bottom of the unit. First thing I did is look at the fine print on the warranty - and sure enough the shock is not covered. I called the dealer on this, and we started a big back-and-forth that went on for weeks. Finally they relented and installed a new shock free of charge. Be relentless, but be polite and professional, and document everything.
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May 25, 2016 16:05
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EVERYTHING IS COVERED! Here are the things not included in everything...
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May 25, 2016 16:16
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XYLOPAGUS posted:What's the CA approved method of removing rust from the inside of a gas tank? Ola wrote a magnificent post a while back https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7wTHkLEPnewLUpvRU5mV1Z3QXM/view?usp=sharing Thread Link if you have archives: (pictures are long since dead) http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3307016 GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 16:45 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 16:35
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Ola wrote a magnificent post a while back Thanks! He's against electrolysis, but I've always heard it's the best option. I'll show him the pdf.
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May 25, 2016 22:24
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It seriously is the best option. There are really only two options to completely remove rust: electrolysis, or buying a new tank. All the chemicals and whatnot are way more pain for way worse results
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May 26, 2016 00:02
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I swish a smaller chain around and use muriatic acid, then water  Electrolysis is pretty baller though.
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May 26, 2016 04:18
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Phosporic acid also works to convert the rust, but in all honesty, it's a big pain, and messy. And even after all that you've still got to rinse all the acid out (with gas) and you're left with a bunch of gasoline that you can't use in anything.
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May 26, 2016 14:00
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Rust removal is one of those messy jobs that unless you've already got the tools, a bunch of free time, and curiosity is better off being outsourced. One of those "I wish I hadn't started this but now I'm too far in to quit" type projects that I seem to get into far too often. See also: paint removal, paint prep, any maintenance on a car driven in the rust belt.
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May 26, 2016 14:06
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I've done apple cider vinegar, that might be worth a try before busting out the big guns.
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May 26, 2016 14:38
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Coredump posted:I've done apple cider vinegar, that might be worth a try before busting out the big guns. In my experience, that works well on light surface rust of chromed things, but that's about it.
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May 26, 2016 14:54
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Just do hydrolysis, it's really not hard and it reduces 100% of the rust to a lower oxidation state. I've done it twice now. A battery charger, a Rubbermaid bin, an iron rod, and some washing soda is all you need, and when you're done it rinses clean with plain water.
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May 26, 2016 15:21
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Those numbers (along with any other number to do with the UK insurance market) might as well come out of a random number generator. The UK insurance market it easy. Are you an old man on an old mans bike who only rides on sunny days who lives in a nice area? Peanuts Young/superbike/live in a dodgy area? Bend over and grab your ankles
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May 26, 2016 17:52
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I filter through traffic every day. I park in very crowded parking spots every day and I push my bike into my garden shed every day. I'd like to be able to fold my mirrors in when space is scarce. Anyone tried these folding mirror elbows on street bikes? http://www.moto-science.com/product/ktm-folding-mirror-elbow-lhd-thread-yamaha-10x125mm-097plfmt-each There seem to be compatible elbows for the handlebar threads but I'm not sure if threads for the stalks are standardized enough to fit my Yamaha stock mirrors on these things. I'd rather not buy the whole mirror because they are ugly.
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May 27, 2016 19:26
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My Ninja 250 still seems to want to die when the engine is very cold (sitting for a few days and starting in ~50F). It'll idle fine, then when I go to pull away I have to rev the poo poo out of it to keep it alive. I've let it idle for a few minutes and it doesn't seem to help. After a few minutes of actual riding it's perfect. I tuned the idle mixture as per nina250.org's guide, the valves are adjusted in spec, the air filter is clean and properly oiled, and the carbs have been recently once-over'd by me with no improvement. Also, while the engine is cold with the choke on it's really knocky-sounding, like it's on one cylinder and tough to keep alive. What am I missing here? The bike is otherwise perfect once it warms up, but this is the kind of thing that makes me hesitant to put it up for sale. 
Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 20:25 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 20:22
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That's pretty normal on a 250. Rpms should be around 3k during warmup. If you wanted to fix it you could go slightly richer on pilot jets.
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May 27, 2016 20:33
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Including the knockiness? RPMs while cold with choke aren't anywhere near 3k even though the warm idle is set to 1250 or whatever it should be, I'll look into that. I appreciate the guidance.
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May 27, 2016 20:49
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My ninja made a sorta knocking noise when cold too. e: like, thunk-y
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May 27, 2016 20:56
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Could be one cylinder burning differently from the other and causing vibrations. Nothing to fix IMO as long as it's common behavior and it works right when warm.
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May 27, 2016 21:05
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makka-setan posted:I filter through traffic every day. I park in very crowded parking spots every day and I push my bike into my garden shed every day. I'd like to be able to fold my mirrors in when space is scarce. Anyone tried these folding mirror elbows on street bikes? Just give up on life and buy these. https://www.doubletakemirror.com/
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May 27, 2016 21:30
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Fifty Three posted:Including the knockiness? RPMs while cold with choke aren't anywhere near 3k even though the warm idle is set to 1250 or whatever it should be, I'll look into that. I appreciate the guidance. Choke cable probably needs to be adjusted/tightened a bit.
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May 27, 2016 22:03
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Oh yeah that reminds me, I haven't physically checked mine yet (because I'd have to get the tank off  ) but I had a look in the manual and the amount of lever travel before the choke engages is supposedly identical to the amount of cable freeplay. Freeplay is meant to be 2-3mm. My lever moves about 25mm before engaging. 
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May 27, 2016 22:11
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Make sure when you check it you check it with the bars turned the tightest way for the cable - you can move the choke mechanism with your hand to see what the range is and adjust accordingly.
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May 27, 2016 22:13
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My 07 ninja 250 was also a huge big bitch when it was cold. Just rev the poo poo out of it and give it lots of choke. Carbs, never, ever again. I sometimes feel like I take FI for granted, instant starts and no choke or petcocks or float bowl bullshit.
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May 27, 2016 22:55
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That's not really a problem with carbs, just a problem with tuning.
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May 28, 2016 02:01
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M42 posted:My ninja made a sorta knocking noise when cold too.  At any rate, thanks everyone. Soon as I've got a chance I'll check the choke adjustment.
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May 28, 2016 02:41
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If the clunking goes away when you use the clutch then it's a regular thing with these bikes. Check by gently slipping the clutch in 1st when stopped (hold the rear brake on) - if the thunk changes as the clutch engages it's normal (as long as it's not too loud).
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May 28, 2016 03:45
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Exactly... the Ninja Knock. First time I heard it, I thought I'd spun a rod bearing. 100% normal. Something with the clutch basket design. The newer 250s (2007-up) don't have it, because that part was redesigned.
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May 28, 2016 07:27
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builds character posted:Just give up on life and buy these. https://www.doubletakemirror.com/ Review from z3n spotted 
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May 28, 2016 13:16
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