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pls don't adv shame
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May 28, 2016 18:29
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clutchpuck posted:I go with a $500,000 combined single limit for BI and PD liability. Partly because it isn't much more expensive than 50k/100k/25k and partly because I need the high limit for the umbrella policy. What the heck does the umbrella policy do that comprehensive won't? Our insurance guy was trying to talk us into that when we bought our house, but it looks like it only covers you in cases where other insurance policies wouldn't cover. Which isn't terribly likely.
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May 28, 2016 19:11
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SquadronROE posted:What the heck does the umbrella policy do that comprehensive won't? Our insurance guy was trying to talk us into that when we bought our house, but it looks like it only covers you in cases where other insurance policies wouldn't cover. Which isn't terribly likely. Umbrella policy kicks in if you do more damage than your policy will cover and protects you from getting your home repossessed or whatever.
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May 28, 2016 20:52
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Voltage posted:Just rev the poo poo out of it and give it lots of choke. Z3n posted:tuning.
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May 28, 2016 21:02
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So after a week of rain and tornadoes I was going to ride my bike and noticed the bottom of my tail had fallen out. One of the tabs I assume a quick rivet goes in had snapped off so the loss of support made the rest of the quick rivets pop out. Don't know what I would use to glue the little tab back on that I would trust to not break off the next time I hit a bump, maybe I should just ghetto rig it with zip ties.
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May 28, 2016 21:05
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Roguestick posted:ghetto rig it with zip ties.
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May 28, 2016 21:07
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On closer inspection there are a couple of bolt holes under the seat near the battery that no longer have bolts. Guess I need to run to the hardware store! No idea how they came out. I'll just blame the lovely Kansas roads for rattling them out.
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May 29, 2016 00:08
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Slide Hammer posted:Exactly... the Ninja Knock. First time I heard it, I thought I'd spun a rod bearing. 100% normal. Something with the clutch basket design. The newer 250s (2007-up) don't have it, because that part was redesigned. Oil pump drive pin?
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May 29, 2016 06:38
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Is it normal to get a bit of oil leaking out of the place where the clutch actuator penetrates the clutch cover? My oil level isn't noticeably diminished, but every time I ride I'm getting a few drips of oil on my right boot.
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May 29, 2016 18:46
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If you've got an Italian bike with a wet clutch or any British motorcycle, I'd say it's normal. On a Japanese bike, no. There's a rubber seal inside that has probably dried out or cracked or loosened up.
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May 29, 2016 19:41
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God knowns where I'll find a replacement one of those. I don't have god's number though, so I'll ask my mechanic next time I'm up there, and keep an eye on the oil in the meantime. A related question: how do I clean oil stains out of nubuck? 
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May 29, 2016 19:47
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Renaissance Robot posted:God knowns where I'll find a replacement one of those. I don't have god's number though, so I'll ask my mechanic next time I'm up there, and keep an eye on the oil in the meantime. What bike? Partzilla.com, boats.net, ronayers.com, ebay
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May 29, 2016 20:37
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The part I think might be busted is the gasket that goes between/around the shaft of 13102 and the clutch case. This does not appear to be a listed part.
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May 29, 2016 20:44
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Renaissance Robot posted:The part I think might be busted is the gasket that goes between/around the shaft of 13102 and the clutch case. This does not appear to be a listed part. It's probably just under another category. Clutch arm rod seal is £3.30 from here: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/zx-6r_zx_600_j1_j2/00-01/ (if I got the right bike, double check that)
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May 29, 2016 21:05
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 I checked wemoto first since they're my go-to, but I was looking under clutch parts; I never imagined it would be with engine seals. Thanks!
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May 29, 2016 21:12
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Oil pump drive pin? Now I remember what it is. There are rubber bushings in the clutch that get hard when old. The knocking is the freeplay from the old, hard bushings.
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May 30, 2016 00:35
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Help me help my friend with his new bike! Brand new, kick rear end Husqvarna 701 (a KTM 690 motor) that was shipped over to Hawaii 2 months ago from the mainland. Assembled at dealership on Oahu and sent over to our island via barge. At 400 miles, he looked at the sight glass and there was NOTHING. Zip. So, he drained it and got 1 quart out - it holds 1.5. Didn't change the filters or the screen and put in 1.5 qts of MotorX full synthetic (the recommended Husq oil can't be found here - the MotoX is what KTM motor recommends). Sight glass was full, 30 mile ride, small bubble. 20 more miles, the first photo in the album. 30 more miles, the second photo http://imgur.com/a/nOQr6 Where could this oil be going? He looked inside the airbox to see if it was puking any oil in the airbox it is not. Not leaking any oil externally and there's no smoke in the exhaust gas when he looks at it. There's some black discharge from the exhaust system he remembers seeing about two weeks ago at the coupling between the header and the muffler as well as a small amount of black fluid that then cooked onto the coupling. A call to Husqvarna tech support is happening on Tuesday, but between his serious heartbreak over his baby having issues and parts/repair being so hard here in the middle of the Pacific, any ideas/things to check/etc is appreciated!
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May 30, 2016 01:55
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1cc per mile is apparently considered normal as per husky early on as the engine breaks in. Wouldn't surprise me - keep topping it off and change the oil the beat the hell out of it until everything seals up.
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May 30, 2016 04:15
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Z3n posted:1cc per mile is apparently considered normal as per husky early on as the engine breaks in. Wouldn't surprise me - keep topping it off and change the oil the beat the hell out of it until everything seals up. I passed on your reply and apparently I had the amounts wrong. He lost .8 quarts in 400 miles - about double that ratio. Did an 80 mile ride and now half way down the sight glass. Still in lose oil during break in range?
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May 30, 2016 06:43
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Last year by Honda CB1300 had a little meeting with the pavement. Small fixing needed, but got it back on the streets soon enough. Bar weight seemed to be a little loose afterwards, but I was happy that the thing worked. However, now:  (yes, I know I should wash the pollen away) So, any ideas how to dig the remainders out of the bar? New weights are like 20€, but this looks like a 6-beer and 100 curses job next Saturday. There are no vibrations, so this is not really anything else than cosmetic thing, but it annoys me.
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May 30, 2016 11:03
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Yeah get some renthal street bars and never look back.
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May 30, 2016 13:41
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astrollinthepork posted:Yeah get some renthal street bars and never look back. This. Have them on my SV and they're great. I'm a sucker for an old school mx-style crossbar, but I understand they make 7/8 bars without crossbars now too
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May 30, 2016 14:05
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What's the best way to dry boots and gloves? I rode through a storm last night and everything is still completely soaked.
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May 30, 2016 16:10
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Bring them inside, assuming your inside is warm and dry, and accept that they won't be done for at least 6 hours. Then leave them alone. If your boot has a removable insole or liner, take that out. Don't be tempted to jam a hair dryer or something in there. Absolutely don't sit anything on or next to a radiator or fire. They won't dry any faster and you'll just end up shrinking the leather.
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May 30, 2016 16:20
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Tear up some newspaper and stuff it inside, it draws out the moisture from the lining. Replace it when it gets soggy (every hour or so)
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May 30, 2016 16:34
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If you have a regular fan (no heat) you can just put the boots in front of the fan so it's blowing into them.
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May 30, 2016 16:56
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Horn of Arby's posted:Help me help my friend with his new bike! I just got a new top-end for my 690 Duke as it broke a ring at ~10k kms. Now I've been breaking it in and during the 1000 km break in it's used 500ml of oil. Unfortunately I got the bike second hand with about 6k on it, so I can't compare to the original break-in round. It should get less and less up till around 10000km, but at that point the broken ring made my oil consumption spike. In any case, this is one of the many reasons I wouldn't recommend these bikes for most people. There's no way you can go between the prescribed maintenance intervals without running it dry. Don't know about the really rapid decrease in oil level after refilling it though. Make sure the handlebars are pointing straight ahead and the bike is really, truly upright (I use a front wheel clamp). The oil level is really sensitive to lean. Also, only fill to halfway between the two marks, anything above that will be burnt off quicker. High Protein fucked around with this message at 17:21 on May 30, 2016 |
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May 30, 2016 17:17
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Letmebefrank posted:Last year by Honda CB1300 had a little meeting with the pavement. Small fixing needed, but got it back on the streets soon enough. If it's threaded through that center hole, try getting a bolt in there then yanking it out with some pliers. Worked for me.
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May 30, 2016 17:18
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Horn of Arby's posted:I passed on your reply and apparently I had the amounts wrong. He lost .8 quarts in 400 miles - about double that ratio. Did an 80 mile ride and now half way down the sight glass. Still in lose oil during break in range? That does seem like a lot...
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May 30, 2016 17:23
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Horn of Arby's posted:I passed on your reply and apparently I had the amounts wrong. He lost .8 quarts in 400 miles - about double that ratio. Did an 80 mile ride and now half way down the sight glass. Still in lose oil during break in range? It can take quite a while for the rings to break in - for example, boxer twins will often burn a little oil up to around 10-15k miles. In my experience, the older 690 engines stop consuming oil around 5-8k of hard use. Whatever he does, he should ride it hard - the oil is likely going past the rings due to the cylinder head and rings both being hardened and not yet conforming and sealing to each other yet. Let it warm up and thrash the hell out of it, riding it hard is what's best for it. If that doesn't work and it does pop, then you get a replacement engine sooner.
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May 30, 2016 18:53
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Letmebefrank posted:Last year by Honda CB1300 had a little meeting with the pavement. Small fixing needed, but got it back on the streets soon enough. CONGRATULATIONS! You've just stumbled into honda's house of agony! To win this challenge you have to remove the throttle tube to access the bare bar by itself. Then you'll see the little holes in the side of the bar which let you use a small implement to push in the tabs which allow you to pull out the damping weight monstrosity in there by screwing a bolt into the end hole and pulling. If you try to do this without pushing in the tabs, you just make things even worse and more impossible.
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May 30, 2016 20:05
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Slavvy posted:CONGRATULATIONS! You've just stumbled into honda's house of agony! To win this challenge you have to remove the throttle tube to access the bare bar by itself. Then you'll see the little holes in the side of the bar which let you use a small implement to push in the tabs which allow you to pull out the damping weight monstrosity in there by screwing a bolt into the end hole and pulling. If you try to do this without pushing in the tabs, you just make things even worse and more impossible. Precisely why I got the renthal bars lol. I could never figure out how to get the weights out of the stock ones. Then I got some SIKK NASTY yoshimura bar ends for a zx14.
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May 30, 2016 23:02
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I have a 1975 Honda ST90. Right now it runs, but I think it has a heat issue. Couple weeks ago I got done restoring it after it had been abandoned in a shed for 10 years and got it running pretty well I thought. I took it out on its maiden voyage across town and in the course of 7 miles it stopped running probably four times. It would seem to lose power after running for a few minutes and then, when I stopped at a light, die. I could kick it over, but it wouldn't start until it had sat for around 30 seconds, then it would fire right up. I thought I was seizing the piston due to overheating and after I got back home checked the oil and it was completely empty. At this point I was sure I was seizing it and the weird semi-automatic transmission on it was allowing me to kick without interacting with the piston. Filled it up with oil and set back out. Now instead of a gradual loss of power I get a sudden complete loss of power after about 2-3 minutes of riding followed by the same 30 second cool down. I also noticed at this point that I was hearing air passing through the carburetor and exhaust when I kicked it while it was cooling down, so I wasn't seizing it. My dad suggested that the coil might be overheating and causing it to lose spark. I ran it until it died again, pulled the plug, and kicked it with the plug grounded on the engine block and got a spark, so I'm not sure if its an ignition issue. I'm pretty sure its not vapor locking either. Right now I'm looking at a new coil and condenser, but its about a $100. Any other ideas as to what might be happening?
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May 30, 2016 23:04
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Quick question. I'm planning on replacing the fork oil in my CBR 250. I have a rear stand but no front stand, what do you goons recommend for lifting up the front end without a front stand?
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May 30, 2016 23:33
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Tie-down-strap the head tube of your frame to a beam in your garage ceiling. That's how I always do it.
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May 31, 2016 00:11
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Do you have a center stand? You can put it on that and hang a couple of gallon jugs of water off the back of the seat to tilt it upwards. Alternately, you could put it on the rear stand, then put a wooden block under the engine and jack it up. The jack from your car is fine (if you don't have one, go to the junkyard and buy one for 10 bucks).
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May 31, 2016 00:13
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Put on kickstand, put jack under exhaust or frame somewhere on the forward side of the bike and jack the front wheel off the ground.
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May 31, 2016 03:46
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Do not do this. In the past I'd let it idle for a few minutes with the choke on, rev it a bit, and turn the choke off before riding. When I rode it today I left the choke on for the first few minutes of riding and didn't have any issues pulling away from stops like I used to, but at idle it hung around 800-1000RPM and wanted to die. Other than the idle mixture, which I'm fairly certain I have set correctly for both cylinders... what else is there? Is this a symptom of the choke cable not being adjusted properly?
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May 31, 2016 18:21
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Sagebrush posted:Do you have a center stand? You can put it on that and hang a couple of gallon jugs of water off the back of the seat to tilt it upwards. I don't have a center stand but I do have a car jack. Thanks for the all the replies!
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May 31, 2016 21:32
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| # ? May 16, 2024 11:05 |
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I'm kind of halfway shopping for a Grom because I've got a sales tax credit on up to $4k after selling my DRZ. Everyone's within 30 minutes is selling at MSRP plus some random set of dealer fees. I decided to call a dealer a little further away and got my rear end chewed out for daring to ask what the total cash price would be if I drove the 3 hours R/T out there. I'm so pissed beyond measure after that phone call. Is there any good way to deal with dealers? Is a firm price really so firm? This will be my 4th bike, but I've always gone to Craigslist.
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May 31, 2016 22:22
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