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SRM posted:Could you try taking some photos close up? Even at full size I can't see Telion well enough to really offer a critique.  I'll get a picture of the back of him at some point, my smartphone struggled to get an in-focus picture of the front. Also, just want to say, seeing your retro Ultras in person has really inspired me to try and work on my painting!
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Jun 1, 2016 23:03
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moths posted:I wanted to cross-post that hydra from the Oath Thread: I really like this Hydra. Particularly the work on the scales.
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Jun 1, 2016 23:06
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Scowny posted:
Thanks man! I dig your paintjob on Telion. I think you need to go back with the base color and touch up the greens and he'll be good to go.
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Jun 1, 2016 23:16
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Lethemonster posted:
Supposedly GW is re-releasing Black Reach under a different name. The sprues look to be the same though.
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Jun 2, 2016 01:40
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Drake_263 posted:Another project finished! (X-posted from the 30K thread) Are those leather treads? That's some pretty cool poo poo.
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Jun 2, 2016 02:44
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The Sisko posted:That's a beautiful tank right there. Speaking of the Horus Heresy I decided to revisit everyone's favorite primarch Lorgar. I wasn't very happy with his armor or his face so I just decided to redo everything. Still have a few details rap up as well as reattaching his mace but Im really happy with the new and improved Lorgar. As always comments and criticism are welcome.
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Jun 2, 2016 12:50
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Anyone have recommendations on where to look for stuff to put on a 28mm base? I'm looking for chests, piles of coins, books, that sort of thing, but everything I'm finding is way too big and I'm not sure what search terms to use.
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Jun 2, 2016 20:18
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GoodBee posted:Fact: If every mini you own is completely painted, you will die. Can't let that happen. Whew. With the WFB Empire army I just bought, I should live to the ripe old age of 987.
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Jun 2, 2016 21:05
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Brewsuke posted:Are those leather treads? I like doing my treads as pretty worn out/dirty - this is Death Guard we're talking about here, chances are they've been rolling around in oxide dust (I have a Martian iron desert theme to my bases) for months on end. Thank you!
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Jun 3, 2016 03:59
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goodness posted:What are some websites to check out "heroic scale" miniatures? The malifaux one has some good options but I don't know any others. (US shipping if that matters)
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Jun 3, 2016 08:45
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What do you mean by heroic scale? New Malifaux figures are closer to true scale (i.e. they have realistic proportions).
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Jun 3, 2016 09:06
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Avenging Dentist posted:What do you mean by heroic scale? New Malifaux figures are closer to true scale (i.e. they have realistic proportions). I guess I meant just 28mm+ size miniatures
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Jun 3, 2016 09:09
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goodness posted:I guess I meant just 28mm+ size miniatures You just want to browse minis? And particular genre? https://www.reapermini.com/ is a good place to start.
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Jun 3, 2016 12:56
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I'm in Spain, what can I use to strip off paint from plastic and resin models? Hopefully something that is not brake fluid.
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Jun 3, 2016 15:28
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GoodBee posted:You just want to browse minis? And particular genre? https://www.reapermini.com/ is a good place to start. Trying to get started painting again and need some stuff to paint. System doesn't matter, just looking for cool minis
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Jun 3, 2016 17:47
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goodness posted:Trying to get started painting again and need some stuff to paint. System doesn't matter, just looking for cool minis I'd recommend picking up some metal Reaper figs. Their Bones line is cheap but I've heard ITT that they have some odd properties to work around. If you pick up any of those I'd ask for some tips on working with them. Reaper has a wide variety of genres to choose from so you can pick stuff that has the textures you want to try painting, like fur, feathers, scales, skin, fantasy armor, sci-fi armor, etc. Or just stuff that looks cool. And Reaper's paint line is pretty good too so you can get paints from them. I have a couple of their Master Series brushes and they work. I like them better than the GW and Testors brushes but then I found my WN brush and I just use that for everything. I used to use Reaper minis to test out paint schemes before I'd decide how to paint my more expensive minis for games. A bonus to metal figs is you don't have to worry about dissolving them if want to strip all the paint off and start over.
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Jun 3, 2016 18:21
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So I looked up the old Golden Demon winner database http://demonwinner.free.fr/ and noticed there are no entries past ~2013. I know that unfortunately, while it was the premiere painting trophy, that is no longer the case. As far as I know, that is now the crystal brush. However, the crystal brush is in the US and in one event only, so where do the european painters show off their best minis? Is it all only at crystal brush and CMON now? I'd like to see where the in-vogue painting trends are going but you can't really tell if the minis you look at are a couple years outdated.
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Jun 3, 2016 18:24
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You can see some of the stuff from 2013 onwards on the official site, https://golden-demon.com/ - unfortunately they only have the finalists up but it may be of help? IIRC there wasn't one in 2015, but it's now part of Warhammer Fest.
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Jun 3, 2016 18:56
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Mango Polo posted:I'm in Spain, what can I use to strip off paint from plastic and resin models? Hopefully something that is not brake fluid. Try Biostrip from the UK?
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Jun 3, 2016 19:00
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Chill la Chill posted:So I looked up the old Golden Demon winner database http://demonwinner.free.fr/ and noticed there are no entries past ~2013. I know that unfortunately, while it was the premiere painting trophy, that is no longer the case. As far as I know, that is now the crystal brush. However, the crystal brush is in the US and in one event only, so where do the european painters show off their best minis? Is it all only at crystal brush and CMON now? I'd like to see where the in-vogue painting trends are going but you can't really tell if the minis you look at are a couple years outdated. There are painting competitions in Europe at conventions that I don't remember the name of. A lot of the better EU painters post on puttyandpaint.
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Jun 3, 2016 19:23
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Mango Polo posted:I'm in Spain, what can I use to strip off paint from plastic and resin models? Hopefully something that is not brake fluid. Isopropyl alcohol Chill la Chill posted:I'd like to see where the in-vogue painting trends are going but you can't really tell if the minis you look at are a couple years outdated. Search for photo albums from Euromilitaire, the guys from that travel Europe to enter their models in competitions, Euromilitaire is one of the last stops on the tour.
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Jun 3, 2016 19:30
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:There are painting competitions in Europe at conventions that I don't remember the name of. krushgroove posted:Search for photo albums from Euromilitaire, the guys from that travel Europe to enter their models in competitions, Euromilitaire is one of the last stops on the tour. Thanks! These are what I'm looking for. 
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Jun 3, 2016 19:36
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always be closing posted:What paints and how did you do the head/face. Sorry for responding so late. The head was done with with P3 Rynn Flesh , then washed with Druchi Violet. I then gingerly used my airbrush to apply a highlight of Minitaires Humanoid Flesh focus on the top of the head and nose and brows ( the airbrush was almost a vertical postion in relation to the model). Hope that helps!
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Jun 3, 2016 19:47
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Is there an easy solution to weighing down a 30mm Warmachine base? I've just about finished painting eIrusk (stock photo for reference), but I've noticed that his flag makes him extremely top heavy and very prone to tipping over.  I was thinking about filling the hollow underside of the base with milliput, but I was wondering if that would be heavy enough, or if there was an obvious solution that I was overlooking?
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Jun 3, 2016 19:56
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imperialparadox posted:Is there an easy solution to weighing down a 30mm Warmachine base? Fishing weights. krushgroove posted:Isopropyl alcohol Huh, that makes sense. Thanks! Mango Polo fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jun 3, 2016 |
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Jun 3, 2016 19:58
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The Sisko posted:Sorry for responding so late. The head was done with with P3 Rynn Flesh , then washed with Druchi Violet. I then gingerly used my airbrush to apply a highlight of Minitaires Humanoid Flesh focus on the top of the head and nose and brows ( the airbrush was almost a vertical postion in relation to the model). Hope that helps! Thanks for the reply. You've certainly piqued my interest in airbrushing. My neighbor next door gave me a small compressor he was using to airbrush military models, but thought it was just for big planes and the like, never thought of detail work like that. Oh boy what a can of $$$$$. On another note, I bought some distilled turpentine to clean the army painter quick shade from my brush, I'm curious what strength to use it at, as its rather expensive.
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Jun 3, 2016 20:39
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I'm cross-posting this from the Oath Thread. It's a quick N' dirty rust tutorial. hey all! I figured I'd knock out the WIP photos and speed painting achievements, while writing a handy tutorial on quick and easy rust effects! (I'll obviously include the achivements in my OATH COMPLETE post. which I need to add to, I forgot this months challenge!) First up, I give the model a thorough black prime, them "mist" it with a metallic paint. I have used other brands of mettalic paint, however this is one of the areas that GW rattle-cans excel at. I used the boltgun metal spray.  Next, you need a stiff bristle brush. (sometimes called a boar brush.) luckily these are very cheap, any hobby store carries them in many sizes.  Using the boar brush is different then a regular brush. you "stab" the model, rather then making normal brush strokes. This is a good reason to buy cheap brushes for this technique, it destroys them quickly. (I mention this because you can buy actual boar-bristle brushes, and they can get costly!) Start with a deep dark-chocolate brown, and cover at least 50% of the model. the more erratic the placement, the better. use rust reference photos to get an idea of the effect you want. I also tend to use cheap paint for this, it uses a lot more paint then even drybrushing.  Next, pick a lighter shade of brown and repeat the same technique, but slightly smaller in coverage.  same technique, lighter shade again. you are going for texture more then anything.  lastly, I finish with either a red or yellow highlight again using the boar brush. the choice of yellow or red depends on what the base coat of the finished model is going to be. for my Killa Kans, I want to use a military green color so yellow is the preferred rust color. no matter the color choice for the finished model, make sure its a lighter color then your last shade used.  I find that rust effects (along with large speed paint projects) work best when you take a moment from time to time to view the total Mob from a distance. I'll modify the rust as needed looking at the unit as a whole. here's my first six Killa Kans with the rust. (and a Deff Dread hiding in the back!)  Now that you have completed the rust, you have a few options to proceed. I'll be using regular brushes, but if you airbrush there's something called the "salt resist" technique. Ill talk about it briefly at the end of the post. For the using brushes, start with your base color. when applying it, be aware that the strokes can add to the texture you want. I like the look of "hand painted," but even if its an imperial vehicle use the existing rust to make a texture you want. I started with a green base.  Once I had that done, I did some basic highlights.  next I picked out some details and painted the horns.  Lastly, I finished the base and called it good!    For posterity, here is my completion picture for speed painting. I'll of course include it in the final Oath Complete! post.  If you use an airbrush, "salt resist" is an awesome technique. you use course salt, table salt, and water. mix it together, and dab it in place on the model everywhere you want the rust to be visible. let it fully dry, then airbrush you base coat (and highlights if you have the stones.) once the model is fully dry, simply use a drybrush to knock off the salt. it makes a mess, so do it over a sink. you get an awesome chipped paint effect from it, I find it really gives a cleaner rust effect if tha'ts what you are going for. as always, practice on something other then you grand opus if this is the first time using any of these techniques!!!
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Jun 3, 2016 21:15
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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imperialparadox posted:I was thinking about filling the hollow underside of the base with milliput, but I was wondering if that would be heavy enough, or if there was an obvious solution that I was overlooking? Privateer Press also sells pewter bases.
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Jun 3, 2016 21:29
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That's awesome, but the yellow final highlight on the rust is too much imo.
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Jun 3, 2016 21:29
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:That's awesome, but the yellow final highlight on the rust is too much imo. That's why I included each layer in the step-by-step, I like my models comically over-wrought. Combine that with the speed I paint at and its a recipe for great table-top models, but not so good when five feet or closer, haha.
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Jun 3, 2016 22:05
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Does anyone know of any sites aside from Bartertown or DakkaDakka where you can trade stuff? I have some Star Wars X-Wing miniatures and some board games i was hoping to unload for some fantasy miniatures or terrain, but haven't had much luck yet.
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Jun 3, 2016 22:34
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Got my brand new Sotar 2020 up and running. It works great, and I really wish I would have started airbrushing sooner. The only issue that I am having is that the brush sprays paint as soon as I push down on the button. It's dual action, so it should just be spraying air until I pull back on the lever. It is a brand new airbrush, so I might not have something set up properly. Anyone know what could be causing this?
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Jun 3, 2016 23:50
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jadebullet posted:Got my brand new Sotar 2020 up and running. It works great, and I really wish I would have started airbrushing sooner. Loosen the collet (the nut that applies pressure to hold the needle). Make sure the needle is slid all the way forward while the trigger is at rest. Then retighten the collet.
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Jun 4, 2016 00:35
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malal posted:That's why I included each layer in the step-by-step, I like my models comically over-wrought. Combine that with the speed I paint at and its a recipe for great table-top models, but not so good when five feet or closer, haha. I think it's more that the yellow doesn't really look like rust any more to me, surprised you didn't go with a super -bright orange
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Jun 4, 2016 00:38
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dexefiend posted:Loosen the collet (the nut that applies pressure to hold the needle). Make sure the needle is slid all the way forward while the trigger is at rest. Then retighten the collet. Thanks, that was the problem. And to anyone on the fence about airbrushing, I can't recommend it more. It is so fast and smooth.
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Jun 4, 2016 00:42
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I think it's more that the yellow doesn't really look like rust any more to me, surprised you didn't go with a super -bright orange I think it looks great with the green myself, but obviously if it's not to your taste just use a darker or more red-mixed shade. I was more showing the technique, obviously the color choice isn't for everyone. I don't really paint to scale, I paint for texture and color options for the entire army. Also stupid fast, which tends to limit options for effect.
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Jun 4, 2016 01:11
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CommissarRed posted:Does anyone know of any sites aside from Bartertown or DakkaDakka where you can trade stuff? I have some Star Wars X-Wing miniatures and some board games i was hoping to unload for some fantasy miniatures or terrain, but haven't had much luck yet. I want someone to start a "Miniature Sell/Trade Agreation Station" thread here on SA and link to it in this thread and all the OPs of other mini games threads. I want that thread to contain links to SA Mart threads for selling lots or allow us to post contact info for small swaps, or bits trades or something. Basically no discussion in the main thread, just info on how to arrange a trade. Let people bump once a month. The effort that would take to set up isn't worth it to me but I've got a couple of things I'd like to swap eventually and a couple of things I wouldn't mind tossing in the mail for free to someone who can actually use them.
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Jun 4, 2016 01:31
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malal posted:I also tend to use cheap paint for this, it uses a lot more paint then even drybrushing. First off, I totally respect speed painting as a skill. Have you ever done any speed painting at a con, where you have limited supplies, a pre-selected model and 60 min to complete it? I did a couple of those one year and it was fun. I'd be interested to hear someone else's experience with that. Second, when you say cheap paint, do you mean cheap craft paint which has larger chunks of pigment? Like the acrylics you can get from a hobby shop that are ~$1 for 3 oz? I can imagine that would give good texture to rust.
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Jun 4, 2016 01:39
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GoodBee posted:First off, I totally respect speed painting as a skill. Have you ever done any speed painting at a con, where you have limited supplies, a pre-selected model and 60 min to complete it? I did a couple of those one year and it was fun. I'd be interested to hear someone else's experience with that. Yeah, those are exactly it. Folk art, Americana, et al. I painted models for years using crap craft paint, and just got used to it. As an aside I'm not mouth better now, I tend to use thick as poo poo Liquitex. It's so pigment rich I can thin it to whatever texture I need. With speed painting it's all about eliminating steps, and thick pigment-rich paints really help with that. As far as an actual speed painting competition I have not had the privilege. I would love to, but just haven't had the chance yet. Good lord I'm the fastest painter I've ever met, I'd love to go toe-to-toe with other speed painters.
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Jun 4, 2016 02:10
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I think I asked this question before but I didn't really get a response. I am better now than I used to be at painting fleshy or otherwise "natural" surfaces because I learned to do some layering, but the same technique doesn't make sense in my mind for painting large plates of flat texture, like armor plates or a vehicle. How do you go about your shading and highlighting on sci-fi when you don't really have a lot of recesses to work with, or if the recesses are all lines in an otherwise flat piece of material?
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Jun 4, 2016 02:32
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