Phlegmish posted:Thanks again, though I think I'll stick with your original recommendations. It's more expensive but I might be able to get more mileage out of it. Hmmm, it depends on what sort of games you like, if you love fast paced first-person shooters and such a high refresh rate one would be your best choice, on the other hand if you play stuff where quick reactions are not extremely important then a 60Hz IPS monitor would be better because it will have better image quality and color. Here are a couple recommendations: High refresh rate monitor: Asus VG248QE IPS high image quality monitor: Dell P2414H
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Jun 5, 2016 22:46
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You can't salvage the i5 out of the laptop, it's a different chip from a desktop i5. Any opinions on that quote vs these builds? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI H110M PRO-D Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($47.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($26.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: PNY CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon) Case: Zalman T2 Plus MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($29.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($42.99 @ SuperBiiz) Other: AMD Rx 480 4GB ($199.00) Total: $601.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-05 23:47 EDT-0400 or PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI H110M PRO-D Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($47.99 @ Amazon) Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($49.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Mushkin ECO3 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon) Other: AMD Rx 480 8GB ($249.00) Total: $741.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-05 23:49 EDT-0400 The 750 one is basically maxing out my budget but wanted to check before I started placing orders. i figured I can suffer with on board video for a month till the new cards are released. Worst case I can check ebay or the forums to see if someone has a somewhat decent card for around 50 bucks. Just making sure I'm checking all my options before lobbing money out there. Really appreciate the advice so far 
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Jun 6, 2016 04:52
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Is upgrading from 8GB to 16GB RAM for high end gaming worthwhile these days? My current set is 8GB DDR3-1600 CAS 9. If I do, should I get another 1600Mhz CAS 9 set, or a 16GB DDR3-2400 CAS 11 set? The 8GB is currently going for £25 and the 16GB for £60 respectively.
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Jun 6, 2016 07:23
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Titor posted:Is upgrading from 8GB to 16GB RAM for high end gaming worthwhile these days? My current set is 8GB DDR3-1600 CAS 9. If I do, should I get another 1600Mhz CAS 9 set, or a 16GB DDR3-2400 CAS 11 set? The 8GB is currently going for £25 and the 16GB for £60 respectively. I upgraded to 16GB recently and haven't noticed much of a change. But the price difference was only $40 so I don't really care.
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Jun 6, 2016 13:03
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Looking for motherboad advice! I'm upgrading to a the new 1080 (because I have expenses that need spending). I have this case and I'd rather not have to get a new one. I'm in the UK. I'm a VR developer. My budget is probably whatever it needs to be. I do not overclock. There is a small chance I will crossfire in future but probably won't. (I've previously had a Gigabyte, and I'm suspicious that some temporary problems I've had in the past have been due to it) Inverse square fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Jun 6, 2016 |
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Jun 6, 2016 13:48
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What's your current motherboard? The graphics card itself will be compatible to any motherboard sold in the last 10 years. If your CPU is a 4000 series then there's really no need to change anything but the graphics card.
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Jun 6, 2016 14:54
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Hmmm, it depends on what sort of games you like, if you love fast paced first-person shooters and such a high refresh rate one would be your best choice, on the other hand if you play stuff where quick reactions are not extremely important then a 60Hz IPS monitor would be better because it will have better image quality and color. Here are a couple recommendations: I'll take a look at those when I get home, thanks. See, I didn't even know there was a trade-off. This is why PC gaming doesn't dominate, you need a degree in computer buildology. If I buy a 60 Hz monitor, does that mean my FPS are capped at 60? Does it matter, since it's not visible to the human eye and VSync prevents tearing?
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Jun 6, 2016 17:00
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Phlegmish posted:If I buy a 60 Hz monitor, does that mean my FPS are capped at 60? Does it matter, since it's not visible to the human eye and VSync prevents tearing? I don't have a >60Hz screen but from what I understand it is visible to the human eye, or at least some humans' eyes. You just might not realize until you use something better and then try to go back.
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Jun 6, 2016 17:01
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I think the whole "humans can't perceive frequencies higher than 60hz" thing is a myth based on some poor conclusions from some studies done before the right equipment existed. It's immediately apparent just in the Windows/OS X UI alone when you go from 60 to 144hz, when moving your cursor or dragging a window. And you can still see sample and hold motion blur at that 144hz frequency, albeit reduced, that begins to disappear when you turn on backlight strobing (but not uniformly across the whole panel). This suggests there is still a lot of headroom for sample and hold displays before you no longer perceive blur when you do something like move your cursor across the screen. I've seen MAbrash and other folks speculate that for sample and hold displays, the threshold where we wouldn't perceive sample and hold blur would be somewhere between 300hz and 1000hz. Remember, 60hz is kind of like qwerty for keyboards*; it wasn't picked because it's some number that happens to be really compatible with human physiology. It was because of 60hz power generators back in the 30s, at least according to this research paper published by Microsoft: O.G. Microsoft posted:The origins of the 60Hz (and 50Hz) field rate Maybe it becomes more difficult to perceive with non-sample and hold displays, like CRT, but then the problem was perceptible flicker at lower frequencies. * not the myth about qwerty being designed to slow typewriters, but rather the recent belief that it's just a best guess at a layout from feedback from telegraph operators fozzy fosbourne fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Jun 6, 2016 |
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Jun 6, 2016 18:56
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Time for an upgrade, currently on a Core i5 3570k/GTX 770 combo and that's not cutting it for games in the way I want anymore. Gonna pass that on to my mom so she can have the most badass Mom PC on the block to play games off king.com. So its time for a sanity check on my build. The CPU/Mobo combo is a current Microcenter bundle deal so that's why I've picked that out, seems like it lets me effectively bump up my motherboard a tier for the same price I'd be paying for a worse MB online. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($338.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($203.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($82.89 @ OutletPC) Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $950.72 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-06 19:23 EDT-0400 The GPU will be a GTX 1070 when they become available at non-FE pricing with open air coolers. Already have a 240GB SSD that I'll be using as a OS/Games drive that I'm saving from the current build. The main thing I'm worried about is the CLC cooler compatibility, it seems like the Define S is considered one of the best cases for this. Not totally sure on the CLC cooler as well, the Corsair H115i seems to be the latest and greatest from them and getting good reviews on Newegg, I think the NZXT Kraken X61 is also considered very good here as well. Beautiful Ninja fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 00:31
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So the 1070...those are going to be available on the 10th, correct? Are they not even gonna be listed until then? I'm thinking about replacing my 970 with one and selling my 970 to recoup some of the cost, but they aren't even listed on Newegg yet, and if that date I've heard is true, they come out at the end of this week 
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Jun 7, 2016 01:59
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Beautiful Ninja posted:Time for an upgrade, currently on a Core i5 3570k/GTX 770 combo and that's not cutting it for games in the way I want anymore. You can save money and just overclock that CPU if you're not doing that already and change the GPU only.
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Jun 7, 2016 05:50
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mmkay posted:You can save money and just overclock that CPU if you're not doing that already and change the GPU only. Currently OC'd, but only gets to 4.2 before it goes into Thermal Hell, I did not win the Ivy Bridge Thermal Lottery and I'm too much of a chicken to delid. My mom needs a new PC so I figured I'd be buying one anyway, might as well spend a bit more and upgrade for myself and give her my current working one. Looking at benchmarks in more modern games and it seems like between the IPC and Clockspeed upgrades I'd get moving to Skylake, as well as moving up to 8 threads on a Core i7, it's a worthwhile jump. I'm actually CPU limited in Overwatch looking at my current FPS compared to the benches I've seen on a GTX 770 on newer CPU's.
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Jun 7, 2016 06:34
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peak debt posted:What's your current motherboard? The graphics card itself will be compatible to any motherboard sold in the last 10 years. If your CPU is a 4000 series then there's really no need to change anything but the graphics card. It's a "Gigabyte Ultra Durable Motherboard LGA 155 Z77-D3H", so that's one of the boards that the OP warns against. I've had one or two times when my computer has just randomly switched off, is the thing. Like I say there are expenses that need spending. Inverse square fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 09:30
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Inverse square posted:It's a "Gigabyte Ultra Durable Motherboard LGA 155 Z77-D3H", so that's one of the boards that the OP warns against. I've had one or two times when my computer has just randomly switched off, is the thing. Like I say there are expenses that need spending. Well if you have money that needs spending you can get the Asus Maximus VIII Gene. That's m-ATX, that'll certainly fit into your case. You'll then also have to upgrade your CPU and the RAM though. The usual suggestions there are the i5-6600K and some DDR4-3000 RAM from a good brand (Kingston, Corsair etc). That's all you need to replace and will cost you around $450-$500. If your power supply is younger than 5 years, from a decent brand and bigger than 500W you can leave it, otherwise it's better to spend another $100 to replace that. If you have an aftermarket cooler on your current motherboard you can reuse that on the new one.
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Jun 7, 2016 11:44
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fozzy fosbourne posted:I think the whole "humans can't perceive frequencies higher than 60hz" thing is a myth based on some poor conclusions from some studies done before the right equipment existed. It's immediately apparent just in the Windows/OS X UI alone when you go from 60 to 144hz, when moving your cursor or dragging a window. And you can still see sample and hold motion blur at that 144hz frequency, albeit reduced, that begins to disappear when you turn on backlight strobing (but not uniformly across the whole panel). This suggests there is still a lot of headroom for sample and hold displays before you no longer perceive blur when you do something like move your cursor across the screen. I've seen MAbrash and other folks speculate that for sample and hold displays, the threshold where we wouldn't perceive sample and hold blur would be somewhere between 300hz and 1000hz. Yeah, I don't know why I thought that it didn't matter. Maybe because a lot of PC games cap FPS at 60 unless you mess with the console. Fortunately, I've ordered a 144 Hz monitor.
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Jun 7, 2016 17:51
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I'm considering upgrading my graphics card from a Geforce GT 610 to something less old/crappy, with the primary end goal being "can run Overwatch 1920x1080 at speeds higher than slideshow." I need something low profile because it'll be going in a small form factor Dell (case like this one). What kinds of models should I be looking at? e: and is ~$120 a reasonable budget for this? Soylent Heliotrope fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 19:48
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Soylent Heliotrope posted:I'm considering upgrading my graphics card from a Geforce GT 610 to something less old/crappy, with the primary end goal being "can run Overwatch 1920x1080 at speeds higher than slideshow." I need something low profile because it'll be going in a small form factor Dell (case like this one). What kinds of models should I be looking at? You can't, there is nothing small enough to fit in that case. Even a low profile 750 Ti would not fit because the cooler on it is still dual slot, normally I would recommend this card but I think the cooler sticks out way too much for it to fit in your case. You could get an R7 240 that would fit and it would be much faster than the GT 610 but I doubt it will make Overwatch playable at 1920x1080 even on very low settings.
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Jun 7, 2016 20:16
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Hey a friend of mine wants help building a computer which I've done a few times but I haven't really kept up with modern hardware best buys so I'm just using the guide in the OP to pick out parts. What do yall think? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($34.49 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($141.99 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $620.81 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-07 15:28 EDT-0400 He has a budget of 700 and I figured we can just go to Microcenter and find a cheap 1900x1080 TN monitor. He wants the case to be as small as possible and he's just going to use it for gaming. I understand that video cards are going to get a lot better in the near future? If there is going to be a substantial price drop in July I don't think he would mind waiting.
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Jun 7, 2016 20:29
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Wachepti posted:Hey a friend of mine wants help building a computer which I've done a few times but I haven't really kept up with modern hardware best buys so I'm just using the guide in the OP to pick out parts. What do yall think? We will probably be seeing price drops on higher end cards but not on the lower end stuff he is looking at. Anyway, here are the changes I would make to the build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($113.99 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($34.49 @ Newegg) Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.89 @ Directron) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($116.00 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case ($34.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: Thermaltake 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $615.32 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-07 15:34 EDT-0400 The case in your build was nice but very expensive, this one is quite good, small and can hold larger video cards and CPU coolers if your friend upgrades in the future. I also changed out the PSU for something cheaper, it's not as nice but it still has a 5 year warranty so it should be reliable. I also switched out the video card for a cheaper version. The savings let me add an SSD to the build which will help a lot in making it feel much faster. EDIT: Also don't buy from outletpc or superbiiz. They are not authorized resellers so you will have trouble getting warranty service, they have also been caught selling used/open box stuff as new.
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Jun 7, 2016 21:10
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Ok, thanks!
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Jun 7, 2016 21:24
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You can't, there is nothing small enough to fit in that case. Even a low profile 750 Ti would not fit because the cooler on it is still dual slot, normally I would recommend this card but I think the cooler sticks out way too much for it to fit in your case. You could get an R7 240 that would fit and it would be much faster than the GT 610 but I doubt it will make Overwatch playable at 1920x1080 even on very low settings. Ah drat, was worried this might be the case. Thanks anyways.
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Jun 7, 2016 22:27
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Soylent Heliotrope posted:Ah drat, was worried this might be the case. Thanks anyways. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, your best bet is probably to save up some money and get a new system when you can, here are a few ideas: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-3240 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00) CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 200T 54.2 CFM CPU Cooler ($14.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI H61M-P31/W8 Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($53.38 @ Newegg) Memory: Team Elite 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($28.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($116.00 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Thermaltake 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $420.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-07 17:41 EDT-0400 In this one we salvage the CPU from your current computer and put it in something big enough to fit a decent video card and a PSU that can power it, obviously it will be a good bit bigger than the old system but at least you could do upgrades and such. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($113.99 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: MSI H110M PRO-D Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($47.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Team Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($29.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($116.00 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Thermaltake 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $520.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-07 17:45 EDT-0400 In this one we get a newer, faster CPU/mobo/RAM combo along with the other parts, it will be somewhat faster and easier to upgrade because it is using newer parts. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($204.98 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Team Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($29.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($116.00 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Thermaltake 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $633.91 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-07 17:47 EDT-0400 This last one adds an i5 CPU and a better motherboard with four slots for RAM in case you ever want to upgrade to 16GB of RAM, it would make a very respectable lower end gaming machine and if you upgraded to a nicer video card in the future it would be able to play just about everything at high settings pretty easy. It sort of hits a sweet spot as far as price vs performance goes.
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Jun 7, 2016 22:51
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I have an extra i5 655k laying about and i wanted to help a friend out. He currently has a 6 year old prebuilt with an i5 and what i think is a gtx 760 Would it be worth it to buy a new or used lga 1156 mobo and carry over the HDDs, ram and gpu? He would be buying a new case and power supply with the understanding that they are going towards his next build when he wants a serious gaming pc. Where can i get a good price on a lga1156 mobo with decent features? I imagine its so long out of stock its not even worth doing. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 04:01
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Fauxtool posted:I have an extra i5 655k laying about and i wanted to help a friend out. Do you know what socket he's currently on? If it is the same, you should just be able to swap it in, although you may not be able to overclock. If not, is it worth going through all this hoopla just to change from one i5 to another similarly dated i5? It's probably not worth buying a new motherboard, honestly.
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Jun 8, 2016 04:14
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You could get an R7 240 that would fit and it would be much faster than the GT 610 but I doubt it will make Overwatch playable at 1920x1080 even on very low settings. I think you underestimate how well optimized Overwatch is. People asking 'can this card play Overwatch ' remind me of the people asking if their desired card can handle WoW or League of Legends at 1080 on medium settings. The answer is almost always yes, it will run acceptably. I'm currently running Overwatch with the settings down at pretty reasonable frames on a 6850! The biggest bottleneck seems to be CPU if anything. I have to imagine it can be run acceptably on most new PCs over $~500 total cost. The real question should be 'is this a logical PC that will last until I get sick of Overwatch and start playing the next flavor of the month game that happens to be significantly less optimized'. Also, I had a question: someone listed the price of the 1070 at $420 tentatively on a build they posted for me. Does anyone know why that would be the price? Everywhere I see says $379. Are aftermarket cards usually pricier?
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Jun 8, 2016 04:27
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Lavender Philtrum posted:I think you underestimate how well optimized Overwatch is. People asking 'can this card play Overwatch ' remind me of the people asking if their desired card can handle WoW or League of Legends at 1080 on medium settings. The answer is almost always yes, it will run acceptably. I'm currently running Overwatch with the settings down at pretty reasonable frames on a 6850! The biggest bottleneck seems to be CPU if anything. I have to imagine it can be run acceptably on most new PCs over $~500 total cost. I said that because I checked benchmarks for Overwatch on the R7 240. At 1366 x 768 resolution with minimum settings Overwatch gets around 40 FPS, that works out to around 20 FPS at 1080p with dips down to 10-15 FPS during heavy action, I do consider that somewhat of a slideshow. The HD 6850 you are comparing with is almost twice as fast as an R7 240 so I am not surprised that the game is playable for you with that card. As to your other question the reason I used $420 is because usually an aftermarket card with a good cooler will be $20-$40 over MSRP and I wanted to err on the high side to make sure you would be ready to pay that much.
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Jun 8, 2016 04:44
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I’m building a new PC around a 6700K and am trying to pick a few of the items. I’m in Australia, but am happy to look at NewEgg if it stocks locally (eg: a difference between $12 and $50 shipping on a motherboard). Regarding motherboards, my budget is AUD$200 – AUD$250. So far, some shortlist options are: Asus Z170 Pro Gaming Asus Z170 AR MSI Z170A Gaming M3 What’s the best picks in this range, including something that I may not have put in this list? I use headphones and don't need wireless LAN. USB3 is essential and I'd like capacity to move to an NVMe SSD in time. For HSFs, I was looking at something around the AUD$50-60 price range but am flexible. I’m looking at: Coolermaster Hyper 212X Silverstone Argon AR03 Thermaltake Frio Silent 12 Again, I’m happy to consider another options if there’s a better choice. This is the first non-stock HSF I’ve used so I’m completely stupid to what’s good. Thanks!
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Jun 8, 2016 05:39
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VulgarandStupid posted:Do you know what socket he's currently on? If it is the same, you should just be able to swap it in, although you may not be able to overclock. If not, is it worth going through all this hoopla just to change from one i5 to another similarly dated i5? it was was worse than he originally described  gt 740, did he mean gtx? i dont know amd x4 630 a i5 655k would be a considerable upgrade no?
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Jun 8, 2016 05:48
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Nam Taf posted:I’m building a new PC around a 6700K and am trying to pick a few of the items. I’m in Australia, but am happy to look at NewEgg if it stocks locally (eg: a difference between $12 and $50 shipping on a motherboard). I would get the ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4, it's really well priced for the Australian market and has all the features you wanted. For a CPU cooler the Cryorig H7 fits in your budget and is probably your best choice.
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Jun 8, 2016 05:53
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:I would get the ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4, it's really well priced for the Australian market and has all the features you wanted. Thanks! Do you know what the difference is between the K4 and the K4/D3, both of which show up on Newegg? Edit: not that it particularly matters since neither ships locally for Newegg so local distributors are cheaper. Edit 2: this has Killer Ethernet. Is the OP gospel no longer relevant? Nam Taf fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 06:01
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Nam Taf posted:Thanks! Do you know what the difference is between the K4 and the K4/D3, both of which show up on Newegg? The Killer ethernet is ok now, just install the driver and avoid the software package for it and it will work fine.
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Jun 8, 2016 06:25
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:I said that because I checked benchmarks for Overwatch on the R7 240. At 1366 x 768 resolution with minimum settings Overwatch gets around 40 FPS, that works out to around 20 FPS at 1080p with dips down to 10-15 FPS during heavy action, I do consider that somewhat of a slideshow. The HD 6850 you are comparing with is almost twice as fast as an R7 240 so I am not surprised that the game is playable for you with that card. I guess I underestimated 3 things: the beefiness of Overwatch, the power of my 6850 (because it's always felt to me like a lovely card that could never run anything I threw at it), and also how weak the R7 240 was. Also I probably should've listened to you in the first place instead of questioning your logic considering you made the build I'm using.  Anyway, thanks! Keep on being smarter and more knowledgeable than me.
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Jun 8, 2016 06:31
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I have a better idea of what I want to do now from my earlier posts. I want to help my friend get decent fps in overwatch so he can play heroes besides torb and rienheart He currently has an amd x4 630 gt 740 in a prebuilt HP desktop I cant guess whether his cpu or gpu is holding him back more or its just both. My plan is to give him my i5 655k and 212 cooler that I have laying around. He will buy a used or refurbished H55 or P55 mobo off amazon for $60. Then buy a new case and power supply, moving his current gpu in. Im going to help him build a new pc next year so the new case and psu will carry over. Considering I should be able to OC the cpu to 4.0 rather easily, is this going to be a substantial enough upgrade to be worth doing?
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Jun 8, 2016 06:36
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Fauxtool posted:I have a better idea of what I want to do now from my earlier posts. The 655k is an upgrade over the X4 630 for sure, but you should find out of his RAM is DDR2 or DDR3, before you do this. Also, you may want to double check this, but I don't think an H55 board can overclock. If he has to end up buying new RAM, you have to consider that cost as well. At a certain point, it may be worthwhile for him to just get a i3-6100 and the cheapest H170/B150 board he can find, and new RAM, as the i3-6100 is also a dual core, but has better single thread performance and uses less power. It also comes with a HSF, and you get all kinds of new technologies like USB3. The GT740 is a GT, not a GTX. It's a grade or two too low to make the cut. VulgarandStupid fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 07:02
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:The Killer ethernet is ok now, just install the driver and avoid the software package for it and it will work fine. Thanks! If I were to consider a step up to the next tier of motherboard (250-300 sort of price range), what's the suggestion there? Nam Taf fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 07:16
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Fauxtool posted:I have a better idea of what I want to do now from my earlier posts. The i5-655k will be substantially faster in single threaded workloads and about equal in multithreaded stuff, it won't be a huge upgrade but it's pretty good for $60, the thing really holding him back is the video card.
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Jun 8, 2016 07:17
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Nam Taf posted:Thanks! You don't really gain much by going up from the motherboard I already recommended. A few minor features, a very small chance at a slightly higher overclock, two extra SATA ports when you already get 6 of them, etcetera. If you really want to the ASRock Z170 Extreme6+ is a good choice but I would sooner spend that money almost anywhere else in a build.
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Jun 8, 2016 07:40
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:For a CPU cooler the Cryorig H7 fits in your budget and is probably your best choice. I'm hoping that a better option can be had locally at the same price if I can pick it up.
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Jun 8, 2016 08:13
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Nam Taf posted:The only place here that I can get this wants min $12 shipping on top. If I up the budget to $75 on the cooler, does that open up better options? The Phanteks PH-TC12DX is significantly better if you can find it.
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Jun 8, 2016 08:40
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