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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Getting a '98 TW200 dual sport for $1600; on a bike that's under 300lbs wet is it still worth it to get a disc/fork/etc lock (and bright orange "it's locked" reminder cable) for short-term parking, or is any thief just going to roll it up a ramp on its back tire and it's pointless? Thieves love dual sports. You want to lock it to something like it's a bicycle. I swear by these two locks. Like, I literally trust a supermoto in a high theft area for hours two nights a week to it, and 100% of the time when parked at home. Quantum Cuff- I have two of these, one for each bike. Great for home use, but is light and packs small so you could strap it to the back. Love how much room you have to loop onto something and then also lock around your triples or frame. Super easy to use, makes getting locked or unlocked and on your way a breeze. It's "unpickable" to the point that they would just spend their time cutting whatever it was hooked to. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8295DPS-Quantum-Cable/dp/B000P6VMEC Street Cuffs- Same as above, but probably even more secure. Small enough to toss in a backpack, but no nonsense. This is what I take with me, usually. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8290DPS-22-inch-9-Link/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AXRKHQPDA92FD9932GQP
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Jun 24, 2016 23:48
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Oooo I should also add that anytime you work with hex cap bolts make sure the allen key is seated as deeply as possible inside the hole before you apply any torque to it. They will strip out very easily if it's only halfway in there. You've got gravity on your side, this is more of a problem when the bolt is parallel to the ground or upside-down.
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Jun 24, 2016 23:52
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Ola posted:You can round out the hex heads and curse your existence until sweet death. Or you can ease, take quiet and apply methods. Do you need them undone now or can you ride as you try this thing and that? The two things being heat and lube, the methods of love, applied respectively with a heat gun or torch and some penetrating It's not right-now vital. I want them out eventually to replace with longer ones, to which I intend to mount a secondary instrument panel/power hub. Also I might want risers. I'll pick up some penetrating oil and have another go when it's warmer. Gorson posted:Oooo I should also add that anytime you work with hex cap bolts make sure the allen key is seated as deeply as possible inside the hole before you apply any torque to it. They will strip out very easily if it's only halfway in there. You've got gravity on your side, this is more of a problem when the bolt is parallel to the ground or upside-down. Or if some dumbshit PO has managed to glob a bunch of copper grease inside the head. 
Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Jun 25, 2016 |
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Jun 24, 2016 23:57
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oil. Some righteous percussion goes without saying to either one.
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Buy some allen key sockets, don't use the simple wrenches for stuff like that because they flex too much and cause you difficulty.
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Jun 25, 2016 00:03
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But NOT ball allen sockets.
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Jun 25, 2016 00:06
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Slavvy posted:Buy some allen key sockets, don't use the simple wrenches for stuff like that because they flex too much and cause you difficulty. This! Was about to post the same thing. Allen key wrenched are junk.
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Jun 25, 2016 00:11
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Coydog posted:
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBnBOoOdA54 You're never going to find a set of locks that will truly keep your poo poo safe from a determined thief, but going for something heavier duty than Master is probably always a good idea. Especially when they come with terribly weak chains like those cuffs did. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIq9khF-axs The brand I've been most impressed by is Kryptonite. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPfwzSv5rcs Of course your lock won't mean poo poo without a good chain. This video is a fantastic little introduction to what you should be looking for. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_7GLxmyaXM Just don't give Master any more money when their products are garbage.
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Jun 25, 2016 00:49
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Huh, I debated asking if there was any bike-chain like thing that'd be better for a small motorbike, but thought it was a silly question, guess not. Motorcycles are explicitly barred from parking on sidewalks in Texas, so I guess if there isn't a pole near where I park, I can at least chain the tire to the frame so it's better than nothing, but optimally chain it to something fixed locally? Okay, so avoid the Master chain and lock, go with one of the Kryptonite chain/u-lock combos even though they're more meant for bicycles?
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Jun 25, 2016 00:57
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Your best bet is to insure the bike against theft, so make sure you have a comprehensive policy with an appropriate deductible.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:00
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Chichevache posted:The height of genius discovery. Wow man thank you it sure is hard talking about locks when I'm still on my first day on this here internet. I've never heard of that guy! Masterlock is garbage but, these cuffs are good locks, and won't break the bank. They have strong links and are easy to use. Definitely more serious than most of the motorcycle specific locks I've used/seen. Good insurance first, a solid lock second. TapTheForwardAssist posted:Okay, so avoid the Master chain and lock, go with one of the Kryptonite chain/u-lock combos even though they're more meant for bicycles? Avoid master lock, except for those I linked. I did my research before buying OH I DON'T KNOW MAYBE THREE OF THEM and use them on bikes that are high risk. Your bike is still going to get jacked if someone wants it bad enough. Also- Get a cover. This might be even better than a lock for securing your bike. Use it in conjunction with a cover. I live in a high theft neighborhood and these are the tools I've chosen.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:05
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clutchpuck posted:Your best bet is to insure the bike against theft, so make sure you have a comprehensive policy with an appropriate deductible. This a million times. Coydog posted:Wow man thank you it sure is hard talking about locks when I'm still on my first day on this here internet. I've never heard of that guy! What's with the attitude?
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Jun 25, 2016 01:15
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Coydog posted:Avoid master lock, except for those I linked. I did my research before buying OH I DON'T KNOW MAYBE THREE OF THEM and use them on bikes that are high risk. Your bike is still going to get jacked if someone wants it bad enough. Any lock without multiple spool pins to resist picking is garbage, and relatively trivial for anyone who's willing to spend a few hours or so playing around with lockpicks.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:54
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I don't know Austin, but here folks just roll up with a van and three dudes and lift the bike in. Gone in ~20 seconds. Comprehensive insurance is your best bet. After that, a cover that doesn't show your knobbies.
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Jun 25, 2016 04:31
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Z3n posted:Any lock without multiple spool pins to resist picking is garbage, and relatively trivial for anyone who's willing to spend a few hours or so playing around with lockpicks. Master is pretty notorious for not using security pins in their padlocks, which is loving inexcusable in my opinion. Frankly, if I were going to buy a lock that I expected to be secure at all I would pick a European brand, since many of them use far more complex mechanisms that an American thief will never encounter. Any kind of dimple lock, for example. Or a nice Medico padlock with a high shackle guard and the nastiest chain I could find. 
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Jun 25, 2016 04:40
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Verge posted:where do you guys live? I'm out in Gainesville. Work in Falls Church, near Coleman's. M42 posted:Satan's taint/ DC area. Kk, If you say so. I had to deal with a similar issue on a 'busa: there was no oil on top of the tensioner, but just below it. Oil moves when it gets hot, so you're more likely too find it on and below the tensioner then down the side or back of the cylinders. I should have my truck back by then so just let me know. We might need help loading because newtruck is pretty tall and I haven't loaded anything in it yet *knock on wood* The_Maz posted:Word. I'll check on item 1 tomorrow and get at you on PMs about trading beer and grillables for carb balancing. Vaguely annoyed that I may have to clean them again, having observed all the stabilizer and running it every week rituals over the winter, but I guess that's oldbikes.txt. I already emailed you, but I'm a bit tied up the next week and Independence Day weekend. My truck is still in the shop and I've got some plans, I'm down to bieks and chill afterwards though. When are we gonna swap the cam on that thing? 
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Jun 25, 2016 04:41
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Does anyone even try to pick these locks instead of just cutting the cable/chain with a big set of bolt cutters? That would be way faster. I agree with everyone else that comprehensive coverage is your only real protection.
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Jun 25, 2016 14:06
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Day Man posted:Does anyone even try to pick these locks instead of just cutting the cable/chain with a big set of bolt cutters? That would be way faster. There is more than one way to pick a lock. They might try raking an easy lock a few times, but I doubt they single pin pick anything complex. That's why the chain (and using proper security pins in your locks ) is such a big deal and why I would be hesitant using the Masters recommended earlier. Also they could be using bump keys or other workarounds that can be done by most people who have used the internet (you can buy most of this stuff from a few websites and it isn't even that expensive). Bump keys are one reason I like the idea of buying a European or Asian lock instead of a mass-produced brand that is popular in America. The odds of your average American thief having learned how to bypass them is practically zero.
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Jun 25, 2016 17:31
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Tire recommendation for an f4i? Summer and fall pleasure riding, not really touring or anything.
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Jun 25, 2016 18:04
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PaintVagrant posted:Tire recommendation for an f4i? Summer and fall pleasure riding, not really touring or anything. Pilot Road 4s if you want to have good grip and very good life plus excellent wet performance, Metzler M7RR if you want something sticky and slightly faster wearing but still get ok life out of, Q3s if you want stick and are ok with minimal life.
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Jun 25, 2016 19:18
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Getting a '98 TW200 dual sport for $1600; on a bike that's under 300lbs wet is it still worth it to get a disc/fork/etc lock (and bright orange "it's locked" reminder cable) for short-term parking, or is any thief just going to roll it up a ramp on its back tire and it's pointless? it depends on what level of bike thieves you got. if you live in my city, poo poo, you can leave the keys in the ignition. fact is, not many people are gonna want to steal that thing and I've heard that vanning is actually rare. that being said, buy some piece of mind and get a small disc lock. picking up bikes is actually harder than it seems because you have to lift them through their suspension sag before the wheels become a non issue.
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Jun 25, 2016 19:20
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Z3n posted:Pilot Road 4s if you want to have good grip and very good life plus excellent wet performance, Metzler M7RR if you want something sticky and slightly faster wearing but still get ok life out of, Q3s if you want stick and are ok with minimal life. I was thinking PR4, hadn't heard of the metzelers. Thanks 
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Jun 25, 2016 22:56
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Day Man posted:Does anyone even try to pick these locks instead of just cutting the cable/chain with a big set of bolt cutters? That would be way faster. Nobody here picks the lock. It's either van or angle grinder or plasma cutter (and then a van). I assume we get angle grinders and plasma cutters because of density but your best bet here really is just to keep it covered.
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Jun 26, 2016 03:01
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Also avoid emotional attachment. It's easier to move on and get a new bike that way.
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Jun 26, 2016 06:37
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Pope Mobile posted:Also avoid emotional attachment. It's easier to move on and get a new bike that way.  but also apply it to everything that is impermanent in life, like Epictetus taught.
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Jun 26, 2016 06:59
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Impossible. Love everything, embrace grief.
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Jun 26, 2016 08:37
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Renaissance Robot posted:Impossible. Love everything, embrace grief. You might have a point. Clutchpuck seems the most consistently upbeat person around here. Or at least he posts as one.
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Jun 26, 2016 09:24
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So I finally picked up my bike from out of state and everything is fine except one thing that seems little but is concerning me. My key is taking a fair amount of force to pull it out of the ignition. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Jun 26, 2016 19:10
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Shove the nozzle of a can of WD40 in the slot and go hog wild. Follow up with vaseline or silicone grease.
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Jun 26, 2016 19:27
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Renaissance Robot posted:Shove the nozzle of a can of WD40 in the slot and go hog wild. Nooooo 
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Jun 26, 2016 19:37
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Actually it's fine so long as you don't treat it as a long term solution. Which is why I suggested following up with a thicker lubricant oil or grease.
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Jun 26, 2016 19:43
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It's that "30 year" locksmith website vs my 30 year uncle locksmith. I'll continue cleaning locks using a spray degreaser, and lubricating with graphite powder 
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Jun 26, 2016 19:45
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Geirskogul posted:It's that "30 year" locksmith website vs my 30 year uncle locksmith. Funny thing there, with the graphite powder. Comes in a little tube, you jam the nozzle end of the tube against the lock opening and squeeze to get a little puff of graphite powder in the lock mechanism. Note that this is for an application where the keyhole face is perpendicular to the ground. If it is, instead, parallel, you really really do not need to squeeze the tube. I got into autopilot mode, hitting every lock in the house with the graphite powder, and when it came to the bike it went loving everywhere. Bike's been caught in the rain since then and there's still graphite powder all around the keyhole.
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Jun 26, 2016 22:47
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My problem with the liquid lock lubricants is every time I pull the key out, it's covered in a black oil, which will stain cloth. Resolved: My shifting rear axle. Ya'll were right, and I wasn't tightening it anywhere near the 80ft/lb spec. In fact, that torque is almost enough to lift the rear off the ground. No idea why my method hasn't been a problem on other bikes, though. Problem: Ever since I replaced the chain and sprockets on the EX250, I have a loud whining noise matched with speed/torque, like an electric motor. It goes away when cruising or decelerating. It's almost louder than the engine (albiet the engine is pretty quiet). Is this normal? Is it just the chain (D.I.D oring)? I've researched this, but nothing remotely similar to my noise/issue has been brought up. Annoyingly, most people describe a squealing noise as a whine, which poisons the results. I feel like it had a similar whine before, but it was so quiet and subtle that it almost didn't exist. VVV Am I the only one that can't see z3N's post down there? VVV Coydog fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jun 27, 2016 |
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Jun 26, 2016 23:52
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Engine rpm or road speed?
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Jun 26, 2016 23:59
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Coydog posted:My problem with the liquid lock lubricants is every time I pull the key out, it's covered in a black oil, which will stain cloth. e: nevermind it's there now!
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Jun 27, 2016 01:30
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Z3n posted:Engine rpm or road speed? Road speed, but louder when I'm in a gear higher and a lot of torque is applied, such as cruising on the highway, or in 5th on a back road at 50, but not as much in 1st from a stop. Engine RPM doesn't affect it, and the sound doesn't exist unless the drivetrain is actually moving the bike forward. Slavvy posted:Yours is the last post ITT for me. The noise is probably your chain tension too tight or your rear wheel out of alignment. Thankfully, your post fixed the glitch in the matrix and made his show up. I've checked the tension almost every time I get of the bike for the past week, because of this noise, and it seems to be well within spec. The chain still is covered in the white lube it came with, so it's well lubricated, too. My markings on either side are exactly the same. I know these can be wildly different on both sides on bikes, but my ninja has always had them about equal. I'll do it properly tomorrow using the swingarm pivots and a tape measure, to be sure. Also, I know what the bike feels like out of alignment because of recent problems. This feels nothing like that. Slavvy posted:Or it's in your head I'm very susceptible to new noises out of the norm bugging me, but this one is very prominent. Like, you would think it had a big electric motor in it. I'd say it sounds cool and futuristic, if I wasn't so worried about it being an expensive damage. When I did the chain and sprockets (multiple times) on the wr250x, I never noticed any bad noises. Granted, that bike is much louder than the ninja. Coydog fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Jun 27, 2016 |
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Jun 27, 2016 01:39
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Did you grease the sprockets as well, or did you apply grease to the chain after you put it all together?
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Jun 27, 2016 01:44
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Are you maybe hearing the primary drive gears meshing, and for some reason some other sound was covering it up before? A whine is almost always going to be gears.
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Jun 27, 2016 01:49
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Sagebrush posted:A whine is almost always going to be gears. Nothing has changed that would cover up the noise. I did clean a metric ton of hardened grease out of the front sprocket cover when I did the job, but I don't think that's related. I hope it's not gears, because it's pretty loud. Chichevache posted:Did you grease the sprockets as well, or did you apply grease to the chain after you put it all together? No, but it was coated in that white chain grease stuff everywhere.
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Jun 27, 2016 02:28
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Geirskogul posted:It's that "30 year" locksmith website vs my 30 year uncle locksmith. Yeah, don't actually use WD-40 unless there's something wrong with the ignition. Like, the key sticks or it's hard to turn or someone put a bunch of sticky stuff in there. That being said, please unplug it before you spray a bunch of poo poo down there. If your key just needs a little help, graphite lock lube goes a long way.
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Jun 27, 2016 13:47
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