|
Verge posted:where do you guys live? Late to this but yeah DC Area. Crystal City for me these days. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:When are we gonna swap the cam on that thing? I need to find the spreadsheet I made the last time we talked about this but this Fall might be doable...
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2016 15:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 17:28 |
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Are you maybe hearing the primary drive gears meshing, and for some reason some other sound was covering it up before? I'd lean this way. Old chain and sprockets might have been getting loud and new ones don't drown out the gear whine. When I get the Ulysses over onto the left side in a corner, I can hear my gears loud and clear, but only when I do that. Probably reverb off the pavement. e: Dumb tire question... I'm looking at Metzeler Roadtec 01 tires and they have a "HWM" heavyweight motorcycle variant. Anybody have any idea at which weight the "HWM" label should apply? I'm looking at like 510lbs wet with luggage on the Uly, which doesn't seem very heavy to be riding on a 180 width rear tire but they talk about enhanced stability with the HWM variant, which wouldn't be a terrible thing with the entertaining rake and wheelbase. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jun 27, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2016 16:25
|
|
|
Heavyweight variants tend to be for 700pound plus bikes. I wouldn't do it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 01:12
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Heavyweight variants tend to be for 700pound plus bikes. I wouldn't do it. or 500 lb bikes with 400 lb riders?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 01:45
|
|
|
Verge posted:or 500 lb bikes with 400 lb riders? But enough about the 
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 02:25
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Pilot Road 4s if you want to have good grip and very good life plus excellent wet performance, Metzler M7RR if you want something sticky and slightly faster wearing but still get ok life out of, Q3s if you want stick and are ok with minimal life. I ended up ordering the M7RR. Bike bandit had a nice price for 236 for a set, and a rebate thing for 50 dollar Visa card. Pretty solid.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 02:30
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Heavyweight variants tend to be for 700pound plus bikes. I wouldn't do it. Thanks, either way they're a lot cheaper than Pilot Roads so I think I'll slide a set of those regular variants on. Verge posted:or 500 lb bikes with 400 lb riders? I did weigh myself and everything on the bike so I could set the suspension up for the Alaska trip. Bike = 490 wet, me 220, payload (luggage incl) 80. Had the rear preload maxed. Erik got it in the ballpark for american sized dudes. Probably because we have American sized dudes and ballparks here where the bikes were designed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 04:27
|
|
|
Further tire question: I've got a 2014 Ninja 300. I'd really like to get Pilot Road 3s on both front and back. Is it going to be a horrible nightmare if I go up a size on the rear from a 140 to a 150? Other people have done it, I just don't want to be some donkeypuncher who has a GIANT REAR WHULLLLL that's less safe.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 04:42
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:
Japan is one of the only countries besides us to actually have ballparks. Not many large dudes though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 04:46
|
|
|
I'm having tires put on the ninja, so my mechanic is going to look into the "whine" noise when he tests it. I'll report back. Fog light relay question- I've done a lot of research tonight on how to properly install aux lights on the WRx. Originally, I planned to just wire them into the high beam wires on the headlight harness, since I just want them mapped to the high beams. But somewhere in these 30 tabs I've learned that that's unsafe. I have an idea what a relay would do, but all these relays have built in switches. I just want to have this turn on automatically when I turn on the high beam. So something like this with a built in switch: https://www.amazon.com/Mictuning-Un...fog+light+relay Wire it up, then cut the wires to the included switch and connect them to the hi part of the switch on the bars, so it closes the connection when the rocker is forward? And that's it? Is 40A too much?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 05:00
|
|
|
Oh bloody christ all that wiring. (hit a electronics store and find a micro 4 pin relay, ground one pin, connect other to your highbeam wiring for your "sense" and line/load accordingly. FUSE IT!) Or if you're feeling spergy, wire up a fet circuit to do the switching. if you cut out your highbeam incandescent bulb you'd be ok running the bar. I wouldn't do both. E: if you do use that kit, please buy quality crimps, and heatshrink splices. the future owner will thank you.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 05:27
|
|
|
Lynza posted:Further tire question: You're fine going up one size from stock. I'd also consider running these: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/michelin-pilot-street-radial-rear-tires As they're basically brand new and basically designed for your bike - I've got a set sitting in the garage for a buddy's Ninja 250 that i should really install.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 08:00
|
|
|
Z3n posted:You're fine going up one size from stock. I'd also consider running these: I wonder if those are the same construction as the local market ones here? I rode a 2015 R3 with those on it and they felt really vague and not very grippy at all, I was able to set off the ABS (yay I got to ride a bike with ABS!) with startling ease. Later they got switched for pirellis which are absolutely magical (but presumably last about three weeks) and completely transformed the bike. My memory of PR3's is substantially better than the streets but it's been a while 
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 09:42
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I wonder if those are the same construction as the local market ones here? I rode a 2015 R3 with those on it and they felt really vague and not very grippy at all, I was able to set off the ABS (yay I got to ride a bike with ABS!) with startling ease. Later they got switched for pirellis which are absolutely magical (but presumably last about three weeks) and completely transformed the bike. My memory of PR3's is substantially better than the streets but it's been a while You're in NZ yeah? If they're the same R3 as the Aus version, they're actually a custom bias-ply tyre made specifically for that bike.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 10:25
|
|
|
I have some of this coolant for my cars: https://www.amazon.com/Zerex-675130-Vehicle-Anitfreeze-Coolant/dp/B0033QO022/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467125793&sr=8-3&keywords=zerex Is this safe for my f4i or should I buy a bike-specific coolant? I see a lot of recommendations for engine ice and water wetter and other coolants with cute names like that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 16:00
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I wonder if those are the same construction as the local market ones here? I rode a 2015 R3 with those on it and they felt really vague and not very grippy at all, I was able to set off the ABS (yay I got to ride a bike with ABS!) with startling ease. Later they got switched for pirellis which are absolutely magical (but presumably last about three weeks) and completely transformed the bike. My memory of PR3's is substantially better than the streets but it's been a while I'd assume they're not the same - OEM tires tend to be a different build and compound from the ones you buy off the shelf. Even if the tire model is externally the same, they tend to be harder so people don't get upset when their new bike burns a set of tires in 3k.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 16:06
|
|
|
Z3n posted:You're fine going up one size from stock. I'd also consider running these: Thanks! I do actually have the Streets on now. They've lasted about a year, or ~15k miles. I was hoping to wait to replace them again this fall, but I looked this morning and they're getting reaaaaal smooth, so I may have to bump up my plans and do it in July instead. I need to hurry up and win the lottery.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 17:16
|
|
|
Lynza posted:Thanks! I do actually have the Streets on now. They've lasted about a year, or ~15k miles. I was hoping to wait to replace them again this fall, but I looked this morning and they're getting reaaaaal smooth, so I may have to bump up my plans and do it in July instead. You take them to a shop or swap the tires yourself?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 18:48
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:Oh bloody christ all that wiring. Thanks for the info! I was hoping that you would answer, since you have a baller lighting setup on your drz. The problem is that I need this to work in conjunction with the high beam, and only when the high beam is activated. This means I'll be putting 20-40 watts extra load on the system than it normally uses. Don't worry, my days of horrible wiring jobs are past. I am striving to make this the cleanest and most weatherproof install possible. I'll admit, I didn't expect this to be as complicated as it is, but I'm always eager to learn new things. I think I need a relay for this, but cannot figure out how to get the system to "sense" when the high beam is on. I don't want to use that switch, and I probably cannot piggyback on the high beam wiring.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 19:13
|
|
|
Lynza posted:Further tire question: Smaller rear tires are more fun.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 19:37
|
|
|
at the least, sizing up to 150 let's you use a better range of tires. 140 is stock on the drz and those tires all blow dick. it's a shame michelin stopped making pilot power 3s in 150
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 19:39
|
|
|
Coydog posted:Thanks for the info! I was hoping that you would answer, since you have a baller lighting setup on your drz. The problem is that I need this to work in conjunction with the high beam, and only when the high beam is activated. This means I'll be putting 20-40 watts extra load on the system than it normally uses. You're describing exactly what a relay does. One wire going to it is for it to "sense" when the circuit is active (your high beam), the other wire comes directly from the battery to power your destination device, whenever the trigger is activated.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 19:58
|
|
|
Speaking of electrics, I've been working on getting my supplementary indicators wired and have discovered the heatshrink I ordered is non-adhesive. This is vexing because I didn't realise there was any kind that didn't exude glue when activated, and since it's only 2:1 as well I'm less than convinced that my splices are waterproof. Any recommended fix? For the bits I already did, would a smear of hot glue on each end suffice?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 20:06
|
|
|
I have battery readings of 12.3v off, 10v with lights on, 14.3 at idle and 14.3 @ 2-3k. Is my battery probably on its way out? Last time I rode it was Thursday and I had to bump start it (probably my answer there) but it fired right up today which was a little surprising.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 20:09
|
|
|
Pope Mobile posted:You take them to a shop or swap the tires yourself? I take them to a shop. I've not leveled up enough to do my own tires. Chain adjustment and fluid flush/changes are what I can handle at this point. Turns out Motorcycle Superstore is (sort of) local, so maybe I'll get my tires from them and see if the little motosport place locally will put them on for me. I liked the dealership, but they took 3 days last time because they're always so busy.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 21:41
|
|
|
A No-Mar setup is a good investment. Did my Uly's myself last time and it wasn't difficult at all. Plus those tires lasted about 3 weeks, so it looks like it will pay for itself pretty quickly.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 21:46
|
|
|
Lynza posted:I take them to a shop. I've not leveled up enough to do my own tires. Chain adjustment and fluid flush/changes are what I can handle at this point. Most places will give you a discount and faster turn around if you can get the wheels off and into the shop on yourself own.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 23:01
|
|
|
Pope Mobile posted:Most places will give you a discount and faster turn around if you can get the wheels off and into the shop on yourself own. But how will I ride my bike to the shop with the tires around my waist/neck if I take off the wheels? 
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 23:15
|
|
|
Get someone to deliver them for you. Better yet: Uber! You can't throw a rock without hitting an Uber or Lyft driver.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 23:21
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:Speaking of electrics, I've been working on getting my supplementary indicators wired and have discovered the heatshrink I ordered is non-adhesive. This is vexing because I didn't realise there was any kind that didn't exude glue when activated, and since it's only 2:1 as well I'm less than convinced that my splices are waterproof. Most heat shrink is not adhesive lined. You have to specifically search out the more expensive adhesive lined stuff. Resintech RT125 is an epoxy specifically made for waterproofing wiring harnesses, you could grab some of that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2016 23:32
|
|
|
Lynza posted:But how will I ride my bike to the shop with the tires around my waist/neck if I take off the wheels? Strap the wheels to the back of your other bike, no problem
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2016 01:41
|
|
|
two sets of wheels.  coydog I'll draw up a simple diagram later, PM me if you want more information and such.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2016 02:36
|
|
Lynza posted:But how will I ride my bike to the shop with the tires around my waist/neck if I take off the wheels? Really carefully
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2016 03:19
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:A No-Mar setup is a good investment. Did my Uly's myself last time and it wasn't difficult at all. Plus those tires lasted about 3 weeks, so it looks like it will pay for itself pretty quickly. Especially if you make biek friends and charge $10/pop
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2016 03:27
|
|
|
Lynza posted:But how will I ride my bike to the shop with the tires around my waist/neck if I take off the wheels? Split the difference: take off only the front wheel to save some money, and wheelie the whole way to the mechanic.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2016 03:58
|
|
|
Ok dudes, I hosed up and need your help. I wanted to fix my bike before going on a vacation this sunday, but it will not idle at all. I have a throttle position sensor on the fritz. This sensor is bonded to the throttle body and to replace it means replacing the whole throttle body. It had this problem before, it was fixed by a dealer. This time I bought a new-enough body myself and with lots of finagling got it in. Yay! Personal victory! .. Now it's hard to start, and will not hold any idle/throttle unless I give it a lot. It also sounds like rear end. Fueling? Electrics? Gods of foolishness coming to wreck my poo poo?? ECU thinks everything is fine, dealer mode shows no error code. I will recheck all the plugs tomorrow evening. Help.  I want to go on vacation! Initially I was hesitant to do it myself, but the service manual made it look easy enough and the shops I rang were booked full. Well I did do the work, kinda. Tomorrow I will be ringing up any and all shops to see if they can squeeze me in, and in the mean time I'm asking the collective minds of CA. Do you have any idea what could be the issue here? Edit: wait, perchance did the former owner of the body just screw every idle screw completely in for storage purposes? Could that be it? gently caress me, that's going on the to-do list alongside rechecking the plugs.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2016 20:51
|
|
|
KARMA! posted:Ok dudes, I hosed up and need your help. I wanted to fix my bike before going on a vacation this sunday, but it will not idle at all. the only time i ever changed a throttle position sensor it was on an 03 mustang and you had to set it with a multimeter, not sure how it works in your case
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2016 22:13
|
|
|
I think the Buell uses the same TPS as the Mustang, and yeah. But the ECM and PC diagnostic utility act as the multimeter.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2016 22:17
|
|
|
Yeah you probably need to range in the TPS for your bike. Check the shop manual electronics section for the procedure.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2016 01:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 17:28 |
|
|
EX250 Type R posted:the only time i ever changed a throttle position sensor it was on an 03 mustang and you had to set it with a multimeter, not sure how it works in your case clutchpuck posted:I think the Buell uses the same TPS as the Mustang, and yeah. But the ECM and PC diagnostic utility act as the multimeter. Z3n posted:Yeah you probably need to range in the TPS for your bike. Check the shop manual electronics section for the procedure. Well, balls. I know of one way to dial in the tps, and that's with a little bar that shows in dealer mode next to the error code. It is horizontal, so it's where it should be. If I need to do more than jiggle the tps sensor to center the bar, I believe I would have to procure SDS (suzuki dealer software) from somewhere and there's no time for that. Balls.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2016 07:20
|
|