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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I am Andrew Ryan, and I'm here to ask you a question. Is a man not entitled to the sweat of his brow? These models are loving awesome and you did a great job painting them.
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Jun 29, 2016 03:19
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So I'm just starting out painting, and my supplies are basically limited to two Vallejo paint sets (one for regular paints, one for metallics.) Can I make a wash or a glaze out of regular paints, or are they their own things that need to be bought and that's that?
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Jun 29, 2016 04:57
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With everyone posting workspaces I figured I should probably throw my hat into the ring. Got this bad boy as a Christmas present built from scratch. Quick pic of sins stuff in just finishing up too. Haven't sealed then yet so a couple look really shiny, but it person im hella happy with them. 
w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jun 29, 2016 |
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Jun 29, 2016 05:04
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^^^ That's a great looking setup. I still don't have a permanent crafting table but this would be perfect.Dimo ArKacho posted:So I'm just starting out painting, and my supplies are basically limited to two Vallejo paint sets (one for regular paints, one for metallics.) Can I make a wash or a glaze out of regular paints, or are they their own things that need to be bought and that's that? I'm still messing around with glazes and have tried several Liquitex mediums like "Slow-Dri" blending medium but basically you need to add some medium to make your paints semi-transparent. The trick is how to apply thin coats. I usually end up with too much pigment (or worse, gooping it) or not enough. Plus there's the fact that Liquitex medium is mostly gloss and Citadel/Vallejo medium is pricey for the quantity. Although you may want to start with a small bottle before you look for bulk bottles (P3 mixing medium comes to mind). With washes, you could try a flow aid although I'm sure others might have more detailed advice than me. Personally, I hate making my own washes since working with straight up water is tricky (tends to bead) and my flow aid washes never look as good as the store bought stuff. Personally, I found Citadel washes to be just about perfect right out of the pot and well worth the premium if you can afford it. Earthshade and Fleshshade work for most situations if you want a place to start. VVV Good point. I've used the Sepia a few times and like the look. inkblottime fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Jun 29, 2016 |
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Jun 29, 2016 06:23
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The Army Painter range of washes is good too, and cheaper than Citadel. Dark tone (Black), Strong Tone (Dark Brown) and Soft Tone (Sepia) are the main three.
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Jun 29, 2016 06:30
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For a cheap rear end wash, add water and dish soap. For a cheap rear end glaze, add water and white school glue (PVA glue), then use a cheap brush to apply. I can't really recommend doing this long term but it might be fun to play around with.
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Jun 29, 2016 07:16
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GoodBee posted:For a cheap rear end wash, add water and dish soap. For a cheap rear end glaze, add water and white school glue (PVA glue), then use a cheap brush to apply. Cool, thanks. It's not going to be a solution I use for more than a week, but I have the next few days off, and don't feel like shopping over painting.
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Jun 29, 2016 18:43
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X-Post from the 30k thread - Word Bearers and Demonic Allies. My first foray into Zenithal highlighting and using inks - I'm pretty happy with the result. Could do more highlighting, but for now I'm pleased. Lord Twisted posted:None of this was painted last week... had a good run of evenings free to just chillax and paint.
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Jun 29, 2016 22:31
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Crosspost from the oath thread. Still working the skin, and trying out true metallic metals. It's eluding me right now, too much reflection for me to really wrap my head around it.Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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Jun 30, 2016 13:18
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I was lazy yesterday and didn't wear my respirator when working on 2 small models. Been coughing up poo poo all day. Always wear protection, yo
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Jun 30, 2016 20:19
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Electric Hobo posted:Crosspost from the oath thread. Still working the skin, and trying out true metallic metals. It's eluding me right now, too much reflection for me to really wrap my head around it. Lovin' these.
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Jun 30, 2016 20:58
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BULBASAUR posted:I was lazy yesterday and didn't wear my respirator when working on 2 small models. Been coughing up poo poo all day.  Got that from a bunch of Epic defense lines the other day. That pile is about the size of my fist. Definitely wore my respirator for that event.
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Jun 30, 2016 23:16
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So I've decided to buy some more dollies to paint up for Kings of War, and I'm looking at about a hundred models with some change, a third are mounted knights in plate armor, and the remainder is split between mounted squires, "bretonnian bowmen" (with bows or spears), and knights on foot. Going with a relatively realistic scheme of dull steel and some heraldic doublets, I think that undercoating pretty much everything in black and then going nuts with metals makes sense. For my non-armored dudes, I was thinking of dipping (or at least brushing 'dip' on) - maybe a brown undercoat? Roughly, I'd like them to look something like this:  Two questions: a) Should I grab the whole lot in one fell swoop, or buy it in chunks and space it out? b) Does my undercoating idea make sense, or is there a better way? For my R&F I'm going for strictly tabletop quality i.e.  or  I can't bear to play unpainted stuff!
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Jun 30, 2016 23:21
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Southern Heel posted:Two questions: For a), this is going to depend on how motivated you are and whether or not you can keep up that motivation. If you buy them all in one go, there's going to be boxes stacked somewhere, which can just stay there taunting you for months at a time. If you're the kind of person who gets daunted easily when they see a pile of work laid out somewhere, then I suggest just spacing it out. Breaking it up into 500pt chunks can make things manageable however, and give you a sense of progress, so if you're not daunted by a pile of plastic then keep that in mind. As for b), I'll let this explain things simply.  This image is often passed around on places like /tg/ in the painting thread and it's not a bad way to get a whole army done quickly. Whatever else other people might say, I see no shame in doing dipping. It's basically the same as washes, which most painters use, and while the results aren't going to win you any awards it is going to look tabletop ready with minimal effort. This is important if you're trying to get a hundred+ models done in a timely manner. Depending on the kind of wood stainer you get, I'd recommend hitting the models with matte varnish once you're done. That stuff usually leaves a glossy finish to things, which may or may not annoy you. On the plus side to dipping, it's already basically a gloss coat, so your models won't be having their paint chipping off any time soon.
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Jul 1, 2016 00:02
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berzerkmonkey posted:
When I was working on my breachers:  Did it two times over
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Jul 1, 2016 00:04
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Some Krooty goodness:  
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Jul 1, 2016 00:21
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Cross-posting from the Oath thread:GoodBee posted:With username: I was way happier with this guy before I started taking pictures. I recently got daylight LED bulbs for my painting lamps. And some OTC glasses. I'm worried he's not going to look as good on a poorly lit gaming table as some of my troops with chunkier, more cartoony highlights.
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Jul 1, 2016 00:54
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Another Oath post: For my first painted model, I think it turned out alright. I need to invest in real washes and poo poo though, since the dish soap wash was OK at best. It also probably would've worked better if I'd worried less about initial shading and just covered the fucker in brighter red. I found a video after of a guy who painted one of these in 30-something minutes...this took me 3 hours. Still pleased though. Gonna bury my face in another one and see how it turns out. Edit: Second Oath done, so I'm just gonna stack it onto this post. Dimo ArKacho posted:Oath complete! Two in one day, and maybe a third, depending on how I feel for the rest of the night. Not a bad first day. Dimo ArKacho fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jul 1, 2016 |
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Jul 1, 2016 01:36
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Slimnoid posted:Dip So after I dip my models, I could then matte-varnish and in theory go over the top - for example, to make metallics pop again or paint areas that I don't want shaded with brown? I've done a fair bit of soft/strong/dark tone washes from various companies - I wonder if it might be better to have a big brush (like a size 8) and a cup of diluted wash instead of dipping per se. Good call on buying in 500pt chunks.
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Jul 1, 2016 18:15
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Anybody know good brushes/how to maintain brushes. I'm losing my mind because my fine brushes are losing their tips/becoming bushy and that is insanity at 15mm painting
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Jul 1, 2016 18:29
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Southern Heel posted:So after I dip my models, I could then matte-varnish and in theory go over the top - for example, to make metallics pop again or paint areas that I don't want shaded with brown? Yes. But usually, dipped armies look best when everything is dipped. The point of the dip is that things get naturally highlighted, so you really shouldn't need to go back and repaint anything. When I did some zombies, I used a larger brush dipped directly into the can (do not dilute) and it came out perfectly. Work in batches of like 5 at a time, and once you've done the 5th model, go back to the first and brush up any excess. I would highly recommend watching Sorastro's Black Plague tutorial before starting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMOTmOchKyQ FYI, I used Minwax PolyShades Antique Walnut Gloss (left) and AP Strong Tone (right) and found them to be virtually the same: 
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Jul 1, 2016 20:13
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Phi230 posted:Anybody know good brushes/how to maintain brushes. http://winsornewton.com/na/shop/brushes https://www.rosemaryandco.com Also get this: https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
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Jul 1, 2016 20:13
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Southern Heel posted:So after I dip my models, I could then matte-varnish and in theory go over the top - for example, to make metallics pop again or paint areas that I don't want shaded with brown? I've been playing around with the army painter dip, and this method works well. Look for the zombicide painting tutorials on youtube, they go over this exact style of painting, and it really looks nice. I don't always dip the figures, I also use a larger brush to apply the varnish, but you might want to use an extra dryer brush to help get rid of excess liquid, since the varnish can pool up like a wash.
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Jul 1, 2016 20:18
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Phi230 posted:Anybody know good brushes/how to maintain brushes. Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Lovin' these.
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Jul 1, 2016 20:18
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Southern Heel posted:So after I dip my models, I could then matte-varnish and in theory go over the top - for example, to make metallics pop again or paint areas that I don't want shaded with brown? Yes. I do this a lot with metallics; after I hit it with varnish I'll go over areas with silver or gold and do some sparing bits of highlight for extra pop. While you could go with a cup of diluted water, I warn you that it has a tendency to pool and leave water rings. In the case of dipping you're doing it for practical and economical reasons--a can of wood stainer costs less than $10 and will give you enough to cover multiple armies. You don't even need to bother using a brush either, as you can just dunk the models in the can, shake off any excess, and then leave somewhere to dry. It's stupidly easy. Edit: in regards to removing excess dip, I've seen people DIY a method where they put the recently-dipped model at the end of a power drill, then stick the model into a hole in a box and pull the trigger. This wicks away any excess stainer, while also keeping the mess to a minimum since it just splatters inside the box rather than all over the drat place. Phi230 posted:Anybody know good brushes/how to maintain brushes. Brush soap will not only clean your brush, but help keep the shape of the tip. It's a wise investment if you find that your brushes keep doing that. A cheap way to get the shape of the tip back is using conditioner--like what you use in your hair. Rub a little between thumb and forefinger and then gently stroke them over the bristles, twisting to a fine point, then leave them out somewhere overnight. I've done this before and it actually works fairly well, provided it's natural hair brushes. I don't know how well this would work on synthetics. Slimnoid fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Jul 1, 2016 |
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Jul 1, 2016 20:19
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Slimnoid posted:I don't know how well this would work on synthetics. I'll try it this weekend and report back.
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Jul 1, 2016 20:20
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berzerkmonkey posted:I would highly recommend watching Sorastro's Black Plague tutorial before starting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMOTmOchKyQ Yes, this is exactly what I was thinking of! Really a great tutorial.
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Jul 1, 2016 20:22
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Speaking of varnish, in the past I've used Vallejo gloss, then a coat of Vallejo matte, but the results have been.. well, they've been okay, but I always get annoyed with how the coatings affect the contrast. Is there any way around this, or should I just suck it up?
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Jul 1, 2016 22:34
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Speaking of varnish, in the past I've used Vallejo gloss, then a coat of Vallejo matte, but the results have been.. well, they've been okay, but I always get annoyed with how the coatings affect the contrast. Is there any way around this, or should I just suck it up? Varnishes always affect the underlying paint look. I know a lot of competition painters don't use any varnish at all exactly for that reason.
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Jul 2, 2016 02:39
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Speaking of varnish, in the past I've used Vallejo gloss, then a coat of Vallejo matte, but the results have been.. well, they've been okay, but I always get annoyed with how the coatings affect the contrast. Is there any way around this, or should I just suck it up? You can try different varnishes I suppose, to varying effect. I prefer rattlecan varnishes personally, and only use my Vallejo varnish to pick out details with gloss.
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Jul 2, 2016 02:53
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Realtalk - I've got access to GW, Army Painter, Vallejo, P3 and Coat D'arms - what's the best brand for base-coat coverage on reds and yellows? I seem to remember Vallejo being good, but I can't remember which I used in the past and struggling through with Coat D'Arms now is killing me. Thanks,
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Jul 2, 2016 17:50
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Southern Heel posted:Realtalk - I've got access to GW, Army Painter, Vallejo, P3 and Coat D'arms - what's the best brand for base-coat coverage on reds and yellows? I seem to remember Vallejo being good, but I can't remember which I used in the past and struggling through with Coat D'Arms now is killing me. I haven't done yellow but I've used the GW Foundation reds and the Vallejo Heavy Red for base reds on my current army. The Heavy or High pigment paints are becoming my favorite for base coats. I need to pick up a few more colors.
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Jul 2, 2016 19:20
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I'd prefer Vallejo than GW - is there a particular sub-range of paints i..e game/model/air/modern/whatever?
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Jul 3, 2016 11:39
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WIP on the Kingdom Death Dung Beetle Knight    Using a combination of Vallejo, P3 and Scale 75 paints. dr_ether fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 17:28
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Christ dude, timg that poo poo.
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Jul 3, 2016 17:57
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Southern Heel posted:I'd prefer Vallejo than GW - is there a particular sub-range of paints i..e game/model/air/modern/whatever? I don't notice anything different between game and model aside from colors. Haven't tried air or anything else. Their game range matches all the discontinued (maybe current too?) GW paints. The "extra opaque" ones are supposed to match the GW Foundation paints. I'm liking those for base coating red over black primer.
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Jul 3, 2016 18:02
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dr_ether posted:WIP on the Kingdom Death Dung Beetle Knight They have some really nice models, and the colouring is great, but yeah you should change the img tag to timg.
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Jul 3, 2016 18:36
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GoodBee posted:I don't notice anything different between game and model aside from colors. Haven't tried air or anything else. Cool, I grabbed a set of Heavy paints from ebay - I figure it's going to be quite important if I'm constantly painting over a black undercoat (I've moved from black, to white and now back to black again. We'll see how it pans out but thanks for the tip. I decided to also grab a proper magnifying, illuminating desk lamp because I'm sick of trying to paint in weak, ground floor light.
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Jul 3, 2016 19:31
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Finished the Kingdom Death Dung Beetle Knight. Just needs a matt varnish.  
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Jul 4, 2016 00:31
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Southern Heel posted:Realtalk - I've got access to GW, Army Painter, Vallejo, P3 and Coat D'arms - what's the best brand for base-coat coverage on reds and yellows? I seem to remember Vallejo being good, but I can't remember which I used in the past and struggling through with Coat D'Arms now is killing me. I paint almost all my reds and yellows with Vallejo inks and GW or SW washes.
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Jul 4, 2016 06:38
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