|
I have copper red. I paid about the same for a 2008 32k miles. Copper red is a really nice color when it's clean, but it definitely can't handle dirt very well. It loses the really nice copper orange tint and Changes to kind of a more purple.
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2016 04:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 15:24 |
|
|
Phone posted:I personally like the Copper Red vs the True Red. :shoban: Also, the few years they offered yellow on the NC are proper sharp. I'm not a fan of the NA or NB yellows, but the NC looks good. Liquid silver metallic finds your lack of faith... disturbing. If the US got competition yellow NCs in the PRHT like Canada did, I would have held out for one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2016 04:32
|
|
|
Just drove it - much tighter car than my NA, especially when it comes to steering and brakes. It feels like that removes some of the sloppy fun I come to identify with "Miata" and replaces it with "good to very good" sports car. I definitely fit under the windscreen better and my back is comfier. Are the style hoops functional in a rollover? I probably don't pass broomstick without them. The NC is a better styled car but doesn't have the same classic look as the NA, which gets me a shout-out at least once a week. The whole car feels like an icon at this point, and is old enough to be effectively classless. I like that. The NC is more anonymous. I think if I got the NC I'd store the NA for a year before deciding which to keep. The other variable here is that I'm having a kid in two months and may end up driving my Saabaru a lot more so I can be with them (that's hard to predict; all I know is the wife will be the one usually making the day care run). I feel like that old man in movies who doesn't want to give up his old lovely thing for the new and better new one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2016 20:45
|
|
|
The windshield frame provides rollover protection in a crash, the hoops are stamped steel and aren't structural at all. If you're looking at tracking the car, I'd look towards a non-PHRT, but you also have the option of keeping the NA and turning that into a dedicated track toy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2016 21:35
|
|
|
Two Miatas Is Always The Answer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2016 21:38
|
|
|
Also, what do you guys think my NA is worth? 97 Touring (no Torsen or cruise control), 89k, minty except for a small door ding and small ding in lower rear quarter. Lived in Oregon all of it's life, no rust.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2016 23:18
|
|
|
blk posted:Also, what do you guys think my NA is worth? 97 Touring (no Torsen or cruise control), 89k, minty except for a small door ding and small ding in lower rear quarter. Lived in Oregon all of it's life, no rust. Well some dude is trying to get $12K for a 96 locally so go from there?
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2016 23:22
|
|
|
blk posted:Also, what do you guys think my NA is worth? 97 Touring (no Torsen or cruise control), 89k, minty except for a small door ding and small ding in lower rear quarter. Lived in Oregon all of it's life, no rust. Check your local market and use that as your guide.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2016 23:58
|
|
|
I undid the foamectomy on my NA to see if that'd help my back issues - it helped the primary issue (hip displacement causing shooting pain up and down), but the lumbar sucks now and I definitely wouldn't pass the broomstick test. I'm not 100% sure I pass the broomstick test in the NC either so I'm going to try and look at the car again with a friend or some tape and string, and money to buy if I pass. If I don't pass it in that car either, I might stick with the NA and get a back pillow or something. I'm wondering if I'm being too paranoid about rollovers. A friend of a friend is quadriplegic now because he rolled his NB. I live in an area with a lot of no shoulder/steep drops on twisty roads, and have seen a rollover about every 6 months on the freeway. Are any of you too tall for your cars? blk fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jul 5, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 04:23
|
|
|
I'm 5'9" and have no illusions about the hoops in my NC protecting me in a rollover. I'm counting on the windshield frame being strong enough to protect me in a rollover on the street, but I never plan to track my car, even though some local tracks would ok it. The risk on a track is too high, in my opinion. I'm saving up for a dedicated track rat, something with a solid roof or an older Miata with a proper roll bar. There's some pics of the NC rollbars without the plastic covers, and they sit at least a couple inches lower than the backs of the seats. No protection at all in my opinion, so a broomstick test is meaningless. All that said, the NC is a BRILLIANT daily driver. The lack of a back seat and trunk space had me recently considering trading it for a Mustang, but a short drive on some twisty roads put that desire to rest wicked fast.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 05:19
|
|
|
It's really easy, don't drive like a dunce on the street.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 05:52
|
|
|
GOD IS BED posted:I'm 5'9" and have no illusions about the hoops in my NC protecting me in a rollover. I'm counting on the windshield frame being strong enough to protect me in a rollover on the street, but I never plan to track my car, even though some local tracks would ok it. The risk on a track is too high, in my opinion. I'm saving up for a dedicated track rat, something with a solid roof or an older Miata with a proper roll bar.  I'm not a rollbar advocate, but going through some of the (lovely) pictures on Hard Dog's website where they show off how their rollbars survive accidents made me never trust my windshield.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 06:33
|
|
|
Yeah, I probably should have phrased that better: don't drive like a dummy on the road because if you roll a Miata, bad poo poo will happen. Searching for "miata rollover" will get several pics of NCs rolled over, only 1 looks like the windshield frame was any help. The rest are all collapsed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 14:29
|
|
|
Cat Hatter posted:
The windshield hoop on the NC is supposed to be substantially stronger than the Na/nb
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 14:30
|
|
|
Fiat, we need a hard top so people who can't keep the shiny side up don't die.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 15:14
|
|
|
I'm about as concerned of rolling my Miata as I am of getting my skull crushed in by a stray wrecking ball as I walk down the sidewalk. Sure, it COULD happen, but I generally try to avoid that and I don't feel the need to wear a helmet when walking around for extra protection.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 17:23
|
|
|
Probably more likely gonna get decapittated by a semi like that poor tesla driver
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 17:53
|
|
|
Elysium posted:I'm about as concerned of rolling my Miata as I am of getting my skull crushed in by a stray wrecking ball as I walk down the sidewalk. Sure, it COULD happen, but I generally try to avoid that and I don't feel the need to wear a helmet when walking around for extra protection. Best part of having a slow-rear end NB is that I don't worry about going fast enough to roll it. Drive defensively and you'll be OK.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 18:01
|
|
|
The problem is that you don't need to be doing anything crazy yourself to roll a car. Granted, a Miata would be less likely to roll than a regular sedan or especially SUV, but it's enough to just start sliding for whatever reason (including another car hitting you) and then catching on something with a wheel to go flying. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFO7YIK79So&t=94s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVl-6-A9ZO4&t=312s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQaOyq7yDHU&t=39s
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2016 21:06
|
|
|
So I changed the brakes the other day on my '90 but I get this feeling I didn't do it right. I put these pads on the front: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COAZ72/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1467773075&sr=1&keywords=hawk+pads My friend and I changed the pads and the rotors (Napa brand if that matters) on the front the other day. We got the wheels back on and I spun the wheels with the front of the car still up on jack stands. I heard a slight metal on metal sound. We took the wheel off and inspected everything. Everything looked okay but we put the wheel back on and still heard the sound. I drove the car around the block and everything still seemed okay. I didn't hear any loud metal sounds, the car didn't feel any slower, and I didn't smell anything out of the ordinary. I was on country roads so I was able to take the car up to 50 mph if that matters. Any idea what could be wrong or what I should check? The brakes engage but I'm wondering if they're not disengaging completely. Or maybe these pads are a little thicker and it'll go away once the brakes get broken in?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 03:52
|
|
|
When you spin the wheel you'll hear the pads rubbing on the rotor. I don't know if I'd call it metal on metal, but it sounds pretty much like you'd expect a brake pad to sound like when it rubs on a rotor. If the wheel spun fairly freely you're likely fine. The rotor may have been hitting the caliper bracket, but if it was bad the wheel would have been very hard to turn. Did you push the caliper piston back in before putting on the new pads?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 03:56
|
|
|
The wheels spun fairly freely. Metal on metal may not have been the best description but it was brake pad on rotor. Pretty sure we pushed the caliper piston back before putting on the new pads. I know we had to take some brake fluid out of the master cylinder because the level rose so high. That happens when you push the caliper piston back in, right?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 05:04
|
|
|
Picked up an NB for cheap recently and I'm trying to diagnose some pretty intense wandering. The jack that I have right now can't fit under the car, so I haven't been able to really give anything a once-over, but I'm wondering what I should be checking first once I can take a proper look at everything. Essentially at any speed over ~45mph, the car starts to act like I'm driving in a really intense crosswind, it'll start to head off in one direction, and then act like I over-correct after attempting to keep it straight. The steering is a little vague at speeds below that, but nothing near the almost undrivable state it's in at higher speeds. In what I think may be related, the front also sits noticeably lower than the rear, but bouncing both ends didn't feel much different, so I don't know for sure if the struts are blown or if there's some other fuckery about. Disclaimer: It needs new tires, a balance, and probably an alignment as well, so there's that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 18:16
|
|
|
I would check alignment first. Pulling the A arms and inspecting the bushings might not be a bad idea either.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 18:24
|
|
|
Got my first report card back today:quote:With this being the factory fill, it's not shocking to find high metals and silicon in the oil. The metals are from the new parts making elbow room and silicon is from harmless sealers used during assembly. It usually takes a few oil changes to wash this stuff out, especially if you stick with longer intervals like this. As long as things start looking more like universal averages, which are based on about 6,900 miles of oil use, we won't have anything to complain about. The TBN was strong at 3.1 since 1.0 or less is low. You could try 12,000 miles next. Check back for progress.  10k OCIs. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 22:27
|
|
|
Did you notice a difference in performance immediately after the oil change?
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 01:06
|
|
|
I've decided to hold off on the NC until I know what life is going to look like next year - baby and job hunt change a lot of variables, I can't get into the copper mica, and I'm not ready to drop the NA. I should probably change struts and springs, tho. I'd like to reduce roll, keep the car planted and comfortable as a DD. I've been looking at the FM packages with Koni and Tokico struts. A local shop also suggested the VMaxx coilovers might be comfortable enough and mentioned they've seen a lot of issues back and forth with the iterations of the Konis and Tokicos. What would you guys choose for a DD? I don't autocross or track the car.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 01:19
|
|
|
I have koni yellows with stock springs and they never go beyond full soft. So kind of a waste I suppose but they ride great 
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 02:12
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:Did you notice a difference in performance immediately after the oil change? Nah, it's oil. vOv
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 13:23
|
|
|
blk posted:I've decided to hold off on the NC until I know what life is going to look like next year - baby and job hunt change a lot of variables, I can't get into the copper mica, and I'm not ready to drop the NA. I drove my dad's old-man spec (VMaxx, FM bars, OEM wheels with S-Drives) 2000 back-to-back with my 1990 (550/350 Xida, RB front bar, 15x8 wheels with 205 Rivals). His car rides better and felt surprisingly capable. Granted, this was an entirely subjective 15 minute drive on rural roads, not an autocross or track, but it felt better than I was expecting. I may buy Tecnas (again) when they finally come out and sell the Xidas if I like them better.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 13:49
|
|
|
Phone posted:Nah, it's oil. vOv Eh, I asked because (as I've written before) I've noticed a difference in every car I've owned. (I haven't owned a new car, though.) Between oil changes I can tell a difference in overall "smoothness" in terms of engine speed and shifting (on both auto and manual trans.) It's kind of hard to describe if you haven't experienced it. It's probably just an older car thing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 20:31
|
|
|
That sounds like the placebo effect to me. It ain't gran turismo where you change the oil and gain 10hp.  Trans is more noticeable on a high miles car with original fluid, though, sure.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 22:00
|
|
|
Phone posted:I would check alignment first. Pulling the A arms and inspecting the bushings might not be a bad idea either. An alignment remedied the majority of the sway, thanks for the input!
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2016 05:11
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:Between oil changes I can tell a difference in overall "smoothness" in terms of engine speed and shifting (on both auto and manual trans.) It's kind of hard to describe if you haven't experienced it. It's probably just an older car thing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 21:31
|
|
|
destructo posted:It's easier for some people than others to experience something that doesn't exist. I could let you drive my car before & after an oil change to prove it....
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 07:41
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:That sounds like the placebo effect to me. It ain't gran turismo where you change the oil and gain 10hp. I think you're right about placebo, but dammit I feel it too when I do a fresh oil change. Atomizer you're not alone!
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 16:36
|
|
|
I feel it but only if I rub the oil filter gasket with fresh synthetic oils first and make sure I use a hand wrench not a power tool
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 16:37
|
|
|
You guys who claim you can feel a difference in the tractor motor wanabe that is the BP series crack me up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 16:41
|
|
|
When I installed my Momo steering wheel I swear the car just felt faster. Like it knew it was that much closer to being a race car.....It just knew.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 17:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 15:24 |
|
|
Coredump posted:I think you're right about placebo, but dammit I feel it too when I do a fresh oil change. Atomizer you're not alone!  And guys, I wasn't talking about more power, it's more like less resistance, so the engine doesn't rev down as quickly while shifting, and shifts feel smoother. The extra stickers I put on the car definitely add 5 hp each though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 18:10
|
|