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Z3n posted:Is it an S model or an naked model? If it's an naked model, swap to bars that aren't garbage (the OEM bars have way too much sweep and make it difficult to comfortably push forward on the bars to turn the bike), if it's an S model, you'll need to adjust your riding position, drop your elbows until your forearms are parallel to the ground, and push forward squarely on the bars. naked; i have no idea what makes good bars. low ones? do they vary in vibration levels?
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Jul 7, 2016 20:40
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"feels comfortable" is a good start on a handlebar. I've rode a 650N and the factory bar is fine for pushing it into turns.
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Jul 7, 2016 21:10
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Verge posted:naked; i have no idea what makes good bars. low ones? do they vary in vibration levels? Why don't you take your handlebar money and put it towards riding lessons instead? The questions you've been asking lately portray you as A) A goddamned lunatic or B) someone who has no idea how to interact with a bike. Maybe a little of both? Do you open negotiations with the bike on every corner, to encourage it to "lean harder"? I bet you also stick a knee out in an effort to counterbalance the bike into leaning, like it's a sailboat or something. Look where you want to go, and you'd be shocked at how far the bike will lean on it's own. Stock bars on the SVn are fine. In fact, I found they made cornering twitchier and easier. I had big dirtbike bars on it when I bought it, and those worked fine, too. If I were purchasing aftermarket bars for your bike, I'd get the narrower pro tapers with a little bit of rise, for comfort. Go to any cycle gear and get hands on their display setup, and see what feels right. Go pay someone to teach you how to ride, instead of farkles. I mean it.
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Jul 7, 2016 21:54
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The factory naked SV bars and riding position in general is one of the best I've ever experienced but I'm a little weird that way.Z3n posted:If a bike is properly set up, you should be able to take your hands off the bars midcorner and nothing should change. The problem isn't with push vs pull, it's that if you do both simultaneously, you tend to give the input with one arm and resist it with the other. The first time I started consciously using one arm to steer I almost went off the inside of the road cause I had been resisting unconsciously with my other arm. These days I only use both arms to turn in high speed corners on da trackz. If I'm understanding this right, does it mean that 90% of factory bikes are, like cars, deliberately set up to be inherently understeery for lowest common denominator reasons? Or is it just an unintended byproduct of laughably poorly judged spring rates?
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Jul 7, 2016 22:07
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Coydog posted:Why don't you take your handlebar money and put it towards riding lessons instead? The questions you've been asking lately portray you as A) A goddamned lunatic or B) someone who has no idea how to interact with a bike. Maybe a little of both? Do you open negotiations with the bike on every corner, to encourage it to "lean harder"? I bet you also stick a knee out in an effort to counterbalance the bike into leaning, like it's a sailboat or something. I mean, we've seen video evidence of how he rides so it's no big surprise
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Jul 7, 2016 22:13
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Slavvy posted:The factory naked SV bars and riding position in general is one of the best I've ever experienced but I'm a little weird that way. Little of A, little of B. The riding training recommendation is a good one, Verge - I can sorta scattershot advice over the fence, hoping some of it is relevant, but it does sound like you've got some habits that should be relearned  I hate the SV 650 N bars - their sweep puts my elbows at an impossible angle. But I'm also built like a Neanderthal so it might be better for non-knuckle staggers.
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Jul 7, 2016 22:19
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Razzled posted:I mean, we've seen video evidence of how he rides so it's no big surprise There's a video?
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Jul 7, 2016 23:08
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Coydog posted:Why don't you take your handlebar money and put it towards riding lessons instead? The questions you've been asking lately portray you as A) A goddamned lunatic or B) someone who has no idea how to interact with a bike. Maybe a little of both? Do you open negotiations with the bike on every corner, to encourage it to "lean harder"? I bet you also stick a knee out in an effort to counterbalance the bike into leaning, like it's a sailboat or something. been riding 4 years. i have no trouble leaning the bike, i just thought that heavy bars might be indicative of a problem which people have clearly pointed out to be a combination of poo poo bars and poo poo tires. that's all, heavy lean resistance. no, i don't lean with my legs, they mentioned that in class -.-
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Jul 8, 2016 01:45
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The stock SVn bars are either ok or terrible depending on your arm length and torso:leg ratio. Any of the big names, pro-taper, renthal, even MSR make great bars in so many bends it's impossible that there isn't one that fits you. However, my troll alarm is going off big time with verge lately so I'm inclined to give a snarky answer but just in case, here's a real answer: renthal street fighter bars http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/renthal-street-fighter-handlebars-78
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Jul 8, 2016 02:44
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I dunno, I've gone through Verge's post history and he's either an extraordinarily dedicated cross-forums troll, or the genuine article. Verge: have you considered that your previous cruiser bike just had much wider bars, so you had way more leverage? A lovely dirt bike with Renthals is always going to feel like it has lighter steering than even a perfectly set-up supersport with clipons.
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Jul 8, 2016 03:02
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Sagebrush posted:I dunno, I've gone through Verge's post history and he's either an extraordinarily dedicated cross-forums troll, or the genuine article. i haven't considered anything! i just wanna know that it's ok that my bars are heavy as poo poo, which it seems it is. it was super loving alarming to experience a 'stiff triple' at speed. that i don't need to lubricate my triple or some poo poo. everyone's making huge leaps and bounds about my simple observation that my bars seem stiff. so yes, it's totally possible that i just lost some leverage
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Jul 8, 2016 04:11
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The only time I ever rode a motorcycle with clipons was an SV and the whole (short) ride I kept thinking "how do you turn these bars!?!" Cruisers, dirt bikes, and a KLR we're all I'd ridden up to that point.
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Jul 8, 2016 04:23
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tranten posted:The only time I ever rode a motorcycle with clipons was an SV and the whole (short) ride I kept thinking "how do you turn these bars!?!" THANK YOU. This is probably the anomaly, folks.
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Jul 8, 2016 04:36
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Going the opposite way is magic
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Jul 8, 2016 04:48
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BlackMK4 posted:Going the opposite way is magic Am I pushing the direction I want to go, or pulling the direction I do not want to go with my opposite hand? 
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Jul 8, 2016 04:51
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i just lean and the bike turns
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Jul 8, 2016 04:56
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1. Hit front brake to lay bike down 2. Slide into your turn in a shower of sparks 3. Come to a stop 4. Pick bike up and go forward again, return to step 1.
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Jul 8, 2016 05:05
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BlackMK4 posted:i just lean and the bike turns I turn and the bike leans.
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Jul 8, 2016 05:08
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Chichevache posted:Am I pushing the direction I want to go, or pulling the direction I do not want to go with my opposite hand? It doesnt matter how you move it when the engines blown.
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Jul 8, 2016 05:09
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cursedshitbox posted:It doesnt matter how you move it when the engines blown. Or...how you don't 
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Jul 8, 2016 07:24
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BlackMK4 posted:i just lean and the bike turns Slavvy posted:I turn and the bike leans. Noooooooooooooo not this again.
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Jul 8, 2016 13:14
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CharlieWhiskey posted:My friend hit a deer on his Suzuki 650 with his gf on the back. While they are healing, the local tow lot is charging $480+$25/day for his banged up bike on their premises, and he is asking for someone to tow it an hour back to a mechanic to start picking off the deer parts. Does he not have insurance? When I did almost the same thing back in April, my insurance paid for and handled everything regarding the tow and storage.
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Jul 8, 2016 13:51
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VERTiG0 posted:Does he not have insurance? When I did almost the same thing back in April, my insurance paid for and handled everything regarding the tow and storage. He does not have insurance that covers towing and storage, hence the scrambling to get it out. Thanks all for the good advice. That and a couple youtube videos and I'm feeling a lot better about trying this than I was 24 hours ago.
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Jul 8, 2016 14:02
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Should've just left it at the side of the road. Free bike after the insurance payout.
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Jul 8, 2016 15:47
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Took a wee trip down to Wales to see about those tyres; turns out they do qualify for the 0% finance deal, so I'll be loading my basket up with whatever they've got that I want, including a new set of discs. The stock ones are noticeably worse now than when I got the bike. Vibration on braking used to be undetectable below 50mph, now anything above like 25 feels like ABS kicking in (on a bike that does not have ABS  )Anyway, I have basically no idea what I should be looking at beyond "EBC are good". This is what they've got on offer, any suggestions?
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Jul 8, 2016 19:46
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Have you cleaned your brake rotor buttons (if the bike has them)?
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Jul 8, 2016 20:05
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Or just clean the rotor faces with some simple green and a brillo pad, that might smooth it out. It's something I do regularly on the ZTL
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Jul 8, 2016 20:17
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Z3n posted:Have you cleaned your brake rotor buttons (if the bike has them)? You suggested this when I first asked about brake vibration a few months ago; the button washers are crushed to poo poo.  (I don't remember if I ever actually told you that though )I know it's a thing for new riders to jump for expensive solutions to problems they don't really have, but trust me, my discs are warped. Braking at speed is now producing a heavy rhythmic thumping, and just pushing the bike around by hand you can hear the disc slide against the pad and then move away from it as the wheel turns. (that kinda "shhff.... shhff...." noise) For cleaning the buttons I remember somebody suggesting gripping them between a nut and bolt to turn them to help get any dirt out. It looks like somebpdy tried that on mine and hosed it up. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 20:28
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Modern disks basically can't warp, is the thing. The wave washers are also typically designed to be crushed as they move around to center under braking. If you wanna replace the rotors because you wanna do that, go nuts! (I did it on the 1290) But if you need to save some cash you should still be able to clean them and fix the problem.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:49
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question: do you put anti seize or loctite blue on the rear sprocket bolts? i'm thinking just anti seize and torque to spec
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Jul 8, 2016 21:54
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STM floating buttons. Riding a tambourine is fun.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:55
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Verge posted:steering input chat Z3n posted:If a bike is properly set up, you should be able to take your hands off the bars midcorner and nothing should change. Best shittyassed video I could make with traffic and circumstances. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GICEvL2-CUM Its not really much of a turn at all, but if you aren't loaded with bad habits the bike isn't gonna give a poo poo. I'll try to go out and effortpost that this weekend or nextweek or maybe never if I forget.
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Jul 9, 2016 01:01
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Is this where I ask terrible beginner questions about the bike I just purchased and get mocked relentlessly for it?
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Jul 9, 2016 04:36
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My first trailering went flawlessly. And the bike had disappointingly little deer blood or fur on it. My car-centric brain disbelieved that 6 ratchet straps could hold a bike in place, but I proved my brain wrong. Thanks again all for the tips.
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Jul 9, 2016 04:37
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Well, that's one way....
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Jul 9, 2016 04:37
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IuniusBrutus posted:Is this where I ask terrible beginner questions about the bike I just purchased and get mocked relentlessly for it? Uh yep, and also the crash test thread in a few weeks or so
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Jul 9, 2016 04:50
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Why is my bike "burping". I'm riding along holding rpm and then power loss/gain repeatedly. Sounds like it's burping. What the fuuuck. I just had the bike in the shop for a month and got a new engine put in.............
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Jul 9, 2016 04:57
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Bubbles in the fuel line? Mine does that when I accidentally ride with the petcock closed or when I'm running out of fuel. Z3n posted:Modern disks basically can't warp, is the thing. The wave washers are also typically designed to be crushed as they move around to center under braking. If you wanna replace the rotors because you wanna do that, go nuts! (I did it on the 1290) But if you need to save some cash you should still be able to clean them and fix the problem. How about I post 'em to you and you can try cleaning them. If the discs aren't warped as such, they're at least locked up out of true; you say the wave springs are supposed to crush, but I don't think you mean all the way crushed, right? The buttons are totally flush with the disc surface with no play at all. I'd probably want someone to pay me the price of a new set of discs to bother spending the time and effort to repair these, so. Anyways, is there anything at all to look for in new discs beyond "not Chinese"?
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Jul 9, 2016 05:41
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IuniusBrutus posted:Is this where I ask terrible beginner questions about the bike I just purchased and get mocked relentlessly for it? If you got a Schwinn or Mongoose then gtfo.
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Jul 9, 2016 05:45
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But seriously, thanks for looking out for me/my wallet, Z3n. I'm not just ignoring your advice, I've spent most of the last three months weighing this up, and while I'd obviously rather not spend huge amounts of money if I don't have to, I kind of do have to in this case. Like, I could not spend the money, but that wouldn't lead to me fixing the rotors. It would lead to them getting left alone, and to me becoming increasingly fearful of using the front brake hard, until I have an accident as a result (I've already had some near misses). £300 seems fair to definitely lower my odds of dying young, even though there's a ton of things I'd much prefer to spend it on.
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Jul 9, 2016 05:50
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