|
IAmKale posted:It's a 2015 Honda CB300F. The bike itself only has 3600 miles on it so the brakes are in good shade. When I removed the wheel I also removed the caliper. When I reinstalled the tire I tightened the axle nut, hand-screwed the pinch bolt, pushed the caliper's brake pads apart, tightened down the caliper, then did small pumps of the front break until the pads move back into place. After that I bounced the front end, then snugged down the pinch bolt. Sounds like you did everything correctly and since it's a 2015 we can (likely) rule out worn seals, mechanical failure, or a warped disc. Try bedding the pads back in by doing several hard stops in succession. The front wheel spins freely, correct?
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2016 19:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 12:18 |
|
|
The pad rubbing is normal, if you want 'more spins' buy full floating buttons for your rotors. Enjoy riding a tambourine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2016 19:27
|
|
|
IAmKale posted:It's a 2015 Honda CB300F. The bike itself only has 3600 miles on it so the brakes are in good shade. When I removed the wheel I also removed the caliper. When I reinstalled the tire I tightened the axle nut, hand-screwed the pinch bolt, pushed the caliper's brake pads apart, tightened down the caliper, then did small pumps of the front break until the pads move back into place. After that I bounced the front end, then snugged down the pinch bolt. A little drag from the pads is usually fine I wouldn't worry about it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2016 19:46
|
|
|
Fishvilla posted:I'm basically looking at ninjettes and cbr250r. I'd do a 300 if I could find a used one at a reasonable price -- unfortunately, the 300s don't seem to have trickled down into the used market as well as the 250s have. Yeah kind of a bad time of the year for low displacement bikes; the good, reasonably priced ones get snatched up in the spring and everything that's left is overpriced. You will see them start popping up in September from people trying to bail themselves out of a rash purchase before winter and they start having to start eating depreciation and storage costs. If you have some negotiating skill it's a buyers market. These are in my area: CBR250R/300R https://eauclaire.craigslist.org/mcy/5624315203.html $2000 for a 2012, motivated seller. In fact, I may have sold him that bike last year. You won't see one much lower than that. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/mcy/5675945082.html 2011, Minneapolis $2250 miles not listed https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/mcy/5635518698.html iffy, but maybe worth a shot. At least the area code is MN Ninja 300 https://eauclaire.craigslist.org/mcy/5653848734.html Have you thought about the CBR500R? Essentially the same bike but with more horseypowers, and there always seems to be good value in the used market for them. These are in Rochester: https://rmn.craigslist.org/mcy/5657653973.html https://rmn.craigslist.org/mcy/5694768270.html Looks like you might have to do a bit of driving, or a bus-n-ride, to get something reasonable unless you want to wait. I'd be happy to go look at anything in my area for you. Generally everything's a couple hundred bucks cheaper over here.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2016 20:43
|
|
|
Gorson posted:Have you thought about the CBR500R? Essentially the same bike but with more horseypowers, and there always seems to be good value in the used market for them. These are in Rochester: The CBR500R is a good bike. I sold my 2013 model for $2500, but it had been laid down twice and had 40k miles. Ran great still though and it was (mostly) just plastic damage. I replaced everything and got it all nice and no one would bite even at $3k, finally found a guy on reddit and we split the different at $2500. A lot of people get them and put <10k miles on them and are wanting to upgrade afterwards and recoup as much money as possible. I wish people didn't think 40k was a death sentence.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2016 21:02
|
|
|
I actually like the CB500 in black. Normally not my favorite bike color.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2016 21:50
|
|
|
So my new to me VFR800 makes a light ticking noise that I can only really hear at idle and just barely over idle in this crazy heat (35 C +). Very light, like a fine watch ticking. It goes with the RPM. Doesn't appear to be the cam chain tensioners as per the Youtube vids or clutch basket as others have reported. It's an '06 VTEC ABS model with 28,000km (~18,000 miles) and has a Power Commander V with LeoVince SBK II Carbon pipes. Seems to only be doing it since this heat wave rolled through though. It was meticulously maintained by the previous owner, records and all that stuff. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 12:48
|
|
|
Wait, the VFR has cam chains? I thought they were gear driven?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 14:22
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:Wait, the VFR has cam chains? I thought they were gear driven? Only up through 2001. 2002 and later are chain driven.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 15:08
|
|
|
When was the oil changed last? edit: The reason I ask is because it sounds like the oil is thinning out excessively when it gets really hot. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Jul 23, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 17:22
|
|
|
Weird error
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 21:03
|
|
|
Schroeder91 posted:I can't even get a socket on, let alone an extension and ratchet, without removing the exhaust. And that's for only one bolt, the other I'm 93% sure is blocked by the frame and/or the suspension. I really don't know why these bolts are in such a lovely spot, they should've put them on the outside. I guess they didn't expect them to come off, but here we are. I'm considering somehow getting my bike higher off the ground so I can fit a longer wrench in there, that'd probably do it. If you spent all the time you've taken posting about it, you could have removed the drat exhaust and done it properly by now!
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 21:04
|
|
|
I've been riding fairly intermittently to and from work as a short surface street rides. Today I just had this van keep following me way it feels way closer than I am used to or comfortable. Mind you I havent had too much experience riding but it was stressing me out just how close he was following and I was riding what at least my speedo was indicating as a bit over the limit. How do you guys deal with that kinda road stress?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 21:14
|
|
|
Van drivers are the same all over the world. Pull over and let him pass is the safe advice.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 21:18
|
|
|
If someone is riding my rear end closer than I'd like (that doesn't happen often since I generally speed......) I will 'casually accelerate' and put another literal car in between us.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Jul 23, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 21:18
|
|
|
E wrong thread
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 21:48
|
|
|
I start swerving ridiculously. If they don't back off I turn around in the saddle and make shooing motions. I know I'm being irresponsible, but so are they if they're going fast enough to ride my rear end.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 22:11
|
|
|
Chichevache posted:I start swerving ridiculously. If they don't back off I turn around in the saddle and make shooing motions. This, to me, as a novice rider, seems like the correct answer. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 22:15
|
|
|
I cant remember who said it, but i think they called it peacocking or something, but yeah I've found 'warming up my tires' in my lane when someones on my rear end helps them get the idea. I've pulled aside once or twice and given a melodramatic 'go on sir' motion when people have been really impatient.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 22:26
|
|
|
Keket posted:I've pulled aside once or twice and given a melodramatic 'go on sir' motion when people have been really impatient. How very English of you. :P
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 23:15
|
|
|
I rode my rear brake a lot yesterday skimming stopped traffic through malibu 1 north. I like the feel of control the rear brake gives but I'm concerned about wear. should i be though? mainly first gear
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 23:21
|
|
|
Keket posted:I've pulled aside once or twice and given a melodramatic 'go on sir' motion when people have been really impatient.  this is my other favorite move. I love the freedom to emote that motorcycles give.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 23:26
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:I rode my rear brake a lot yesterday skimming stopped traffic through malibu 1 north. What sort of feeling of control are you talking about? Unless you're backing it around a dirt track, the rear brake shouldn't have much impact on how you ride the bike at all.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2016 23:40
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:What sort of feeling of control are you talking about? Unless you're backing it around a dirt track, the rear brake shouldn't have much impact on how you ride the bike at all. A little drag of the rear brake helps a lot with low-speed control, for reasons that aren't entirely clear to me. My first riding instructor called it "keeping the chain tight" and I suppose it's as good an explanation as any.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 00:05
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:A little drag of the rear brake helps a lot with low-speed control, for reasons that aren't entirely clear to me. My first riding instructor called it "keeping the chain tight" and I suppose it's as good an explanation as any. it's definitely effectual and useful in slow speed maneuvering and filtering. I think it just acts as an attenuator to your normal inputs. It may be possible to get a similar effect by putting a ride-by-wire bike in rain mode.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 00:26
|
|
|
Ah, ok, at super low speeds I know what you mean. Something about attenuating your throttle inputs? Being able to ride with the throttle advanced out of the kind of unstable off-idle section, but without accelerating? I imagine that at those very low speeds the brake wear is negligible. I wouldn't be dragging the brake once I was above maybe 10 miles an hour, though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 00:47
|
|
|
There's a ton of poo poo I don't understand about braking and suspension dynamics in twist of the wrist, but I believe it says small amounts of rear brake can have a settling effect on the suspension which gives the rider more confidence. I've started using it more in low speed situations and it does seem to make the bike feel more...solid? I guess
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 00:49
|
|
|
Brakes and throttle control what the suspension is doing, you don't want to be off them both at once otherwise the suspension is free to move around however the gently caress it wants. I don't know if twist of the wrist is still advocating having all of your braking done in a straight line but that may be the reason they say it can settle the chassis. Now a'days everyone is braking into the corner on the front brakes and you're not really worried about what the rear is doing (it tends to move around), kinda making using the rear brake to settle the bike (read: control suspension movement and the suspension geometry as a byproduct of suspension movement) less relevant. There is more to how suspension geometry affects the bike but I am headed down a tangent that no one gives a poo poo about. I personally use the front brake and clutch control in low speed situations, but whatever works for you. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jul 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 01:00
|
|
|
I'm probably not explaining it right, but a little rear brake seems to make the initial dive and rise of the front end not as severe when hard braking.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 01:35
|
|
|
Anti-squat, note how the rear wants to rise when you're on the throttle and pull down when you press the rear brake. You're controlling the rear suspension travel with the rear brake and preventing weight transfer forwards to compress the forks. This behavior also changes based on your swingarm angle. Consider that this rise increases ground clearance when you're on the throttle... important in a corner (!!!). Additionally, you will find that if your rear is actually squatting on the throttle you run wide out of corners. This is a geometry issue, not enough rear spring, etc. Consider that the anti-squat reverses if the rear axle sits under the horizontal line drawn from the swingarm pivot... now consider what happens when people lower bikes. (rear axle ends up above the swingarm pivot). BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jul 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 01:54
|
|
|
I've hit a wall trying to fire up my goddamn piece of poo poo loving kawasaki. It cranks but doesn't start, and after each cranking attempt the spark plugs come out soaked in petrol. Things I have already checked/tried/rechecked exhaustively: - Carbs are 100% clean and perfect and float levels are correct and pilot screws are correct. No tears in the diaphragms, no sticky slides - Coils and leads test up perfect according to the factory specs, all 4 cylinders have spark - I have two identical CDI's, swapping them around makes no difference - Clearances are 100%, compression is up to spec, cam timing is perfect - Having the airbox on or off, intake trumpets on or off makes no difference at all I'm at a loss. Nothing I do changes anything, I always just get soaking wet spark plugs and a shitload of fuel vapour coming out the back. It definitely has spark but just won't fire at all, there's no sensation of it being on the verge of starting or coughing and spluttering, it just behaves like a bike with the coils unplugged. Except it loving has spark. And every time I want to try something slightly different I first have to remove the plugs and dry them off. Argh. Am I missing something here that I could be checking?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:04
|
|
|
Timing 180* off?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:06
|
|
|
Timing 180* off? edit: The gently caress happened there?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:06
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Anti-squat, note how the rear wants to rise when you're on the throttle and pull down when you press the rear brake. You're controlling the rear suspension travel with the rear brake and preventing weight transfer forwards to compress the forks. This behavior also changes based on your swingarm angle. Thanks for explaining it 
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:10
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Timing 180* off? If you're referring to the chopper wheel on the crank, it is marked with 1,4 tdc and 2,3 tdc. When I set it to 1,4T the #1 cylinder lobes are pointing away from the valves so I'm fairly confident that's ok. The engine has never been apart as far as I can tell.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:11
|
|
|
If it's got gas and air, and is sparking, all that's left is ignition.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:19
|
|
|
Z3n posted:If it's got gas and air, and is sparking, all that's left is ignition. Uh...what?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:24
|
|
|
Ignition timing, sorry.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:33
|
|
|
Well, there are two coils and the usual wasted spark setup. If I swap the coils around into the 'incorrect' configuration (so the 1-4 coil onto 2-3 and vice versa) I get some pops/backfires out of a couple of the carbs and more flame than usual out of the exhaust. I would've thought that if the timing wheel were 180 degrees out, simply swapping the coils around would get it to start, although the wheel itself is keyed to the crank so it can't possibly be backwards anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 12:18 |
|
|
Uh, fresh gas? I d k 
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2016 02:39
|
|