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Rnr posted:I used this set for a lot of home improvement and in the wood working thread mentioned tree house construction (in itself around 250 screws I think): https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Diamond...mpactor+bit+set Pass.
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Jul 19, 2016 03:55
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nmfree posted:When I was a kid I was expected to rotate the deck while my father stood there and held the screwdriver still. Son, you know you're better for it now mow the lawn with ya teeth, the food stamps done run out
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Jul 19, 2016 18:27
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All this talk of camming and impact drivers is giving me flashbacks of this weekend removing the goddamn screws from my rotors on my Accord, gently caress those screws.
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Jul 19, 2016 19:24
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deimos posted:All this talk of camming and impact drivers is giving me flashbacks of this weekend removing the goddamn screws from my rotors on my Accord, gently caress those screws. Just FYI, those are JIS screws, which don't cam out unless you use a Phillips #3 on them You can get the right bits from a few places online.
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Jul 19, 2016 20:49
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sharkytm posted:Just FYI, those are JIS screws, which don't cam out unless you use a Phillips #3 on them
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Jul 19, 2016 21:31
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deimos posted:All this talk of camming and impact drivers is giving me flashbacks of this weekend removing the goddamn screws from my rotors on my Accord, gently caress those screws. I've owned a hand impact driver for years, and the only thing I've EVER used it for was to remove those two screws that hold on Honda rotors. F Honda, and F those screws.
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Jul 19, 2016 22:06
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sharkytm posted:Just FYI, those are JIS screws, which don't cam out
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Jul 19, 2016 23:24
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Speaking of impacts, I'm about to do my first suspension install ever on my car.. I think an impact will make the job easier. I'm on a budget and I don't have a ton of storage space, so an electric is appealing.. but I'm not sure it's up to the job. Should I be looking at a cheap compressor from HF for this type of job?
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Jul 20, 2016 04:05
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Google Butt posted:Should I be looking at a cheap compressor from HF for this type of job? I would. A compressor really opens up a new world of useful and powerful tools that frankly, electric versions can't touch. The added benefit is that air tools are very cheap, since they don't need expensive motors, batteries, or electrical circuits. As for HF...I haven't used their compressors, and I would probably see what other options are out there. It seems like Craftsman and Ridgid also make compressors around the same price that are probably slightly more reliable than HF and may have a better warranty.
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Jul 20, 2016 15:44
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stealie72 posted:Maybe not, but they drill out real nice like, since they rust solid to the hubs any place where they salt the roads in the winter. Or you live on an Island. Google Butt posted:Speaking of impacts, I'm about to do my first suspension install ever on my car.. I think an impact will make the job easier. I'm on a budget and I don't have a ton of storage space, so an electric is appealing.. but I'm not sure it's up to the job. Should I be looking at a cheap compressor from HF for this type of job? Depending on your budget go with a Senco 1-2HP or a better California Air Tools 1-2HP (the 10020C is probably your best fit, or a 1HP if that's your budget), you want around 4 CFM @ 90 PSI for most 1/2" impacts if you don't want to wait for it to refill after a few trigger pulls. I recommend you don't cheap out too much on either and get a decent wrench (Ingersoll Rand is pretty much the industry standard but there are others) too. And for the love of all that is sacred please get a torque limiter stick if you're going to do tires. deimos fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Jul 21, 2016 |
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Jul 20, 2016 16:47
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metallicaeg posted:I don't get why Phillips are so poo poo. Pozidrive is the same basic + shape, but knocking in 3" PZ wood screws I don't have nearly the same about of trouble as PH. Philips screws were designed at a time when it was difficult or expensive to control fastener torque with the tool (i.e. a torque wrench or slipper clutch). The Philips head + driver are designed to cam out with overtightening, preventing the installer from using too much torque. A slightly damaged screw head is better than one that's broken off. These days they're pointless and stupid and everything should be socket head hex or Torx or Robertson.
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Jul 20, 2016 18:35
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deimos posted:Or you live on an Island. Aircat or the HF Earthquake are also solid choices. I have both, and they're about equal, although I think the Aircat is a little quieter.
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Jul 20, 2016 23:52
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sharkytm posted:Aircat or the HF Earthquake are also solid choices. I have both, and they're about equal, although I think the Aircat is a little quieter. Yeah IR is not the be-all end all just usually the one I've seen used as a measuring stick, edited my post to reflect that (and other nuances I originally left out).
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Jul 21, 2016 00:24
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Is there any truth to the story that Phillips took off in the US because Robertson wouldn't give Henry Ford an exclusive deal to use his design?
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Jul 21, 2016 01:29
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stubblyhead posted:Is there any truth to the story that Phillips took off in the US because Robertson wouldn't give Henry Ford an exclusive deal to use his design? This article suggests that the Phillips screw was invented specifically for car manufacturers in the 30's. The Robertson apparently dates to 1908. Wikipedia posted:When Henry Ford tried out the Robertson screws, he found that they saved considerable time in Model T production, but when Robertson refused to license the screw design, Ford realized that the supply of screws would not be guaranteed and chose to limit their use in production to Ford's Canadian division. So it's not so much the lack of exclusivity as it was the lack of openness in the license. Too bad we didn't have open-source screw designs in the early 20th century! 
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Jul 21, 2016 01:43
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I have a WW2 era Hamilton 21 Navy Chronometer. The wood case it lives in was made by the Heintzman Piano Co and apparently one of the first large scale uses of Phillips Head screws. So I guess they have probably served their purpose and we should abandon Phillips.
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Jul 21, 2016 01:55
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I have a WW2 era Hamilton 21 Navy Chronometer. You can't just say something like this without posting pics.
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Jul 21, 2016 05:31
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Here it is, horrible Phillips screws and all: https://imgur.com/a/Kzc3f Keeps a steady .5 sec/day loss. Probably delivered to the USB in 1945 or so.
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Jul 22, 2016 18:09
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Xposting this to AI as well. Group buy on Norseman drill bits http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264210 NORSEMAN drill group buy
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Jul 23, 2016 00:46
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 My workshop is almost complete! Scored a bunch of cool things off my dad; - Triton workbench with tablesaw and router tops - Power Saw - Power Mitre Saw - Router + bit set - (almost) complete set of metric spanners - Set of chisels (had to spend about an hour with his wetstone to bring them back to life, despite the temptation of his bench grinder) - A lot of clamps - Some files - A few rasps - Rubber mallet (would have been handy six months ago when doing some bricklaying) This adds to the other stuff I've gotten off him; - Saw horse - Dremel - Finishing sander - Drill press To quote my dad "I'd rather you use it than it sit up in the loft collecting dust" Going to pickup a shopvac tomorrow because dust just gets shat everywhere, probably wouldn't hurt to put up a proper ceiling (someone at some point added this two car garage to the side of the house, it doesn't have a concrete pad under the garage, they put up joists to hang a plasterboard ceiling but never finished it.)
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Jul 23, 2016 14:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This article suggests that the Phillips screw was invented specifically for car manufacturers in the 30's. The Robertson apparently dates to 1908. Robertson refused to license out his design because the first time he tried to do so, in the UK, he was immediately ripped off. He guarded the square drive jealously after that, and the socket hex drive was partially an attempt to find the next best thing that wouldn't infringe Robertson's patents.
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Jul 23, 2016 22:11
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Here it is, horrible Phillips screws and all:  . That's a beautiful timepiece.
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Jul 24, 2016 06:43
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Help! What kind of saw blade should I get for my circular saw? I mostly use it for cross cutting, but also have used it a bit for ripping.
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Jul 25, 2016 14:19
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Spookydonut posted:Help! What kind of saw blade should I get for my circular saw? I mostly use it for cross cutting, but also have used it a bit for ripping. If you use it for woodworking look for a "finishing" thin kerf blade 40 or 60 teeth (and if woodworking is your life or you have money to burn a Forrest ). If it's just general carpentry and don't-give-a-fuckits about finish just get the biggest baddest framing saw blade you want.
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Jul 26, 2016 23:40
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yeah get a freud diablo with a bunch of teeth
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Jul 26, 2016 23:44
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deimos posted:If you use it for woodworking look for a "finishing" thin kerf blade 40 or 60 teeth (and if woodworking is your life or you have money to burn a Forrest Do they make a 60 tooth circular saw blade nowadays? I don't know but I've maybe seen 1 40 tooth ever.
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Jul 27, 2016 00:47
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Freud makes a 40T ultra fine, ultra thin kerf. It's like the scalpel of circular saw blades.
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Jul 27, 2016 02:01
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I slapped this Diablo blade into my circular saw, which I used for a bunch of miscellaneous cuts for building my workshop. Crosscuts, rip cuts, and a lot of plywood. It's not fine woodworking, but it's worked just fine.
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Jul 27, 2016 02:08
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I slapped this Diablo blade into my circular saw, which I used for a bunch of miscellaneous cuts for building my workshop. Crosscuts, rip cuts, and a lot of plywood. It's not fine woodworking, but it's worked just fine. That's a very reasonable price and Freud have been good for like ever. I honestly did not realize 40 teeth for a skilsaw was a thing.
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Jul 27, 2016 02:12
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I've got a DeWalt 235mm circular saw, the blade in it has too much sap on the face of it to tell what it is, but it's got carbide teeth, I'd guess maybe 40 or 60 teeth, but it's pretty blunt. Is it worth trying to sharpen it? I'll probably get a 20 tooth one for chopping up scrap wood for firewood.
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Jul 27, 2016 08:42
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Spookydonut posted:I've got a DeWalt 235mm circular saw, the blade in it has too much sap on the face of it to tell what it is, but it's got carbide teeth, I'd guess maybe 40 or 60 teeth, but it's pretty blunt. Is it worth trying to sharpen it? How much do you feel like saving $10-50? Because that'd be about the cost of buying a new blade, depending on how good a blade your original is and assuming you're able to sharpen it back to like-new quality. Personally I'd just buy a new blade.
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Jul 27, 2016 15:27
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Mr. Mambold posted:Do they make a 60 tooth circular saw blade nowadays? I don't know but I've maybe seen 1 40 tooth ever. Freud makes a 60T they call "ultra finish". And Forrest makes this, but it's definitely on the extremely specialized end of the spectrum. Spookydonut posted:I've got a DeWalt 235mm circular saw, the blade in it has too much sap on the face of it to tell what it is, but it's got carbide teeth, I'd guess maybe 40 or 60 teeth, but it's pretty blunt. Is it worth trying to sharpen it? I am with the above poster, scrap it and buy a $20 (40-60T) finish blade and a $10 (24T) framing blade. deimos fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 19:06
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I bought a house and I need some power tools. I like to think I'll do a bunch of poo poo around the house but its hard to say whether thats going to be the case so I'm kind of leery about investing too much. Right now I'm trying to decide if I should go with 12v or 18v. I would assume if I end up not doing as much as I'm thinking 12v will be better due to cheaper/smaller and 18v would be better if I do end up doing more plus it'll be better to have the beefier line if I end up investing in more tools from the system beyond a drill. Is that an accurate line of thinking? Next, are there certain 12v systems that are preferable that aren't necessarily better to look into if I go with 18v? Any opinions on http://thesweethome.com/reviews/the-best-drill-for-common-household-projects/ since they mostly look at 12v drills? I'm also not adverse to trolling the pawn shops looking for used older but still reliable drills even though I'd likely need to pick up a bettery/charger for it. Any suggestions would be great! I might be overthinking this since generally it seems like Milwaukee/DeWalt/Makita are probably fairly similar and come down to how much I want to spend.
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Jul 27, 2016 21:46
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I, too, just bought a house and I purchased the Bosch DDS181-02 that was recommended as the "upgrade option" in the Sweethome article. I have zero complaints about the drill itself. The battery is long lasting and I haven't been wanting for more power at all. The one thing to think about though is if you plan on buying other cordless tools. I have no desire for any other cordless tools, so I went with the Bosch. But if you plan on buying a cordless circular saw, drill, and other cordless tools, you might want to look at brands where you can use the same battery in all of those tools. Milwaukee, Ryobi, Dewalt, etc. all have lots of options that use the same battery. Bosch doesn't really have a huge lineup of such tools, so that would be the only knock against it, IMO.
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Jul 27, 2016 21:52
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chupacabraTERROR posted:Bosch doesn't really have a huge lineup of such tools, so that would be the only knock against it, IMO. Bosch 18v has all of the contractor-grade drills, impactors, grinders and saws that Dewalt and Milwaukee has, even a couple radios and a light. However, it doesn't have all the toys Ryobi has like leaf blowers, portable fans, and, weedwhackers. If someone is doing actual demo/reno/additions, Bosch is great. If someone is installing one set of shelves and wants to use those batteries to weedwhack later, Ryobi is fine. Dewalt and Milwaukee for a bit of both.
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Jul 27, 2016 22:04
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The absolute best plus for Ryobi 18V is the yearly two pack of high capacity for $100.
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Jul 27, 2016 22:32
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Bosch 18v has all of the contractor-grade drills, impactors, grinders and saws that Dewalt and Milwaukee has, even a couple radios and a light. However, it doesn't have all the toys Ryobi has like leaf blowers, portable fans, and, weedwhackers. Yeah, that's what I meant. Bosch has a couple tools that use the same battery, Ryobi and others have probably 2-3x more. If you want or need the whole assortment, it's something to consider as a difference between the brands. Like I said, I have no complaints about the drill itself, I just wasn't aware I couldn't go buy a Bosch cordless leaf blower, for example.
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Jul 27, 2016 23:09
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I had major problems with some Ryobi batteries but still recommend them because of their great selection which includes yard tools. Their cordless trimmer and weed wacker are great. So is their inflator, fan and nailgun. For tool tools Milwaukee M12 is great all around. My latest edition is their stellar cordless handheld vac which gets daily use by my wife for bug killing.
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Jul 28, 2016 00:04
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Spookydonut posted:I've got a DeWalt 235mm circular saw, the blade in it has too much sap on the face of it to tell what it is, but it's got carbide teeth, I'd guess maybe 40 or 60 teeth, but it's pretty blunt. Is it worth trying to sharpen it? Dewalt makes disposable blades and excellent woodworking blades. The latter are definitely worth sharpening. Either way if you have a spare toothbrush and some degreaser you can remove the pitch in a minute or two and it will probably cut almost like new. Rinse with water to remove any leftover degreaser.
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Jul 28, 2016 01:11
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wormil posted:Dewalt makes disposable blades and excellent woodworking blades. The latter are definitely worth sharpening. Either way if you have a spare toothbrush and some degreaser you can remove the pitch in a minute or two and it will probably cut almost like new. Rinse with water to remove any leftover degreaser. Good tip. I also learned about using oven cleaner to do that.
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Jul 28, 2016 01:30
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