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Let's back up, what were you doing before it stopped running? Has it ever run for you? Sorry, missing the backstory here.
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Jul 24, 2016 02:39
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I'd start with fresh gas. Someone a couple weeks ago was in exactly your situation and then discovered that the PO had poured in a bottle of 2-stroke oil "cause it's good for the engine" Can you get it to fire with starter fluid?
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Jul 24, 2016 03:38
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BlackMK4 posted:Let's back up, what were you doing before it stopped running? Has it ever run for you? Sorry, missing the backstory here. Backstory: I started with one bike with a blown engine and one bike with a blown everything else. Blown engine was running on all four (so presumably had good carbs and spark stuff), 'good' engine had a flat battery so I've never actually seen it running because I took it out of the bike asap. I realise now that this might have been a mistake but hakuna matata. The good engine has perfect compression and I've done the valve clearances. I now have the good bike with the good engine in it. I chose the better of the two sets of carbs and cannibalised the HT leads off both sets of coils to get one good full set. This also means I have two of everything for testing purposes. Sagebrush posted:I'd start with fresh gas. Someone a couple weeks ago was in exactly your situation and then discovered that the PO had poured in a bottle of 2-stroke oil "cause it's good for the engine" That was me  and I'm running it off an aux tank with petrol I bought from the gas station two days ago. I can't get it to fire with starter fluid, which I'll admit lends credence to the wrong timing idea but I don't see how it can be off if everything is lining up mechanically.Only other piece of anecdotal evidence: when I test for spark by putting a plug into the HT lead and resting it against the frame/engine and cranking, the first 3-4 sparks are normal looking but then all subsequent ones arc out from the side of the center electrode. Also FWIW I'm starting it with a fully charged battery run in parallel with a fully charged car battery so there's no chance of it being a low voltage problem.
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Jul 24, 2016 03:51
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Slavvy posted:Backstory: I started with one bike with a blown engine and one bike with a blown everything else. Blown engine was running on all four (so presumably had good carbs and spark stuff), 'good' engine had a flat battery so I've never actually seen it running because I took it out of the bike asap. I realise now that this might have been a mistake but hakuna matata. The good engine has perfect compression and I've done the valve clearances. Are you using the good engine plugs or the bad engine plugs? Have you tried a fresh set? And gaps are good?
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Jul 24, 2016 03:59
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Slavvy posted:I can't get it to fire with starter fluid, which I'll admit lends credence to the wrong timing idea but I don't see how it can be off if everything is lining up mechanically. Can you look in one of the plug holes and crank the engine over slowly, verifying that everything is happening in the right order? Make sure that the valves come down at the right times and in the right order, and that the spark for that cylinder fires at TDC. Maybe some joker had the engine apart and put the camshafts in out of phase. You'd still be able to get compression and spark, and the ignition timing would look right as measured from the crankshaft, but if it's not synchronized with the cams, welp
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Jul 24, 2016 04:07
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Linedance posted:Are you using the good engine plugs or the bad engine plugs? Have you tried a fresh set? And gaps are good? I haven't tried a fresh set, both sets look good and gap correctly. The 'good' engine ones look practically brand new. Sagebrush posted:Can you look in one of the plug holes and crank the engine over slowly, verifying that everything is happening in the right order? Make sure that the valves come down at the right times and in the right order, and that the spark for that cylinder fires at TDC. Maybe some joker had the engine apart and put the camshafts in out of phase. You'd still be able to get compression and spark, and the ignition timing would look right as measured from the crankshaft, but if it's not synchronized with the cams, welp I had the cams out myself in order to do the clearances and I've triple checked that they're back in correctly and that the intake and exhaust cams haven't gotten mixed up.
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Jul 24, 2016 04:18
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2004 SV650N I got the bike from the PO with a dealer installed Acumen Cat 1 alarm system. In the beginning, it worked fine and the fobs had good range, but progressively the range of the fobs has decreased. Last week I had success disarming the alarm only if I put the fob right on the fairing opposite from where the alarm pack is installed, but today even that wasn't working so I'm officially dead in the water. The fob has fresh batteries as of last week. 1. What would make the range decrease progressively? Does the alarm unit have a battery that can go bad? 2. Is it more cost effective to fix, remove, or replace? The bike is in central London, so nobody really gives a poo poo about a car alarm going off...
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Jul 24, 2016 13:54
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Sagebrush posted:Can you look in one of the plug holes and crank the engine over slowly, verifying that everything is happening in the right order? Make sure that the valves come down at the right times and in the right order, and that the spark for that cylinder fires at TDC. Maybe some joker had the engine apart and put the camshafts in out of phase. You'd still be able to get compression and spark, and the ignition timing would look right as measured from the crankshaft, but if it's not synchronized with the cams, welp BTW, there's a company called (rather alarmingly) Crazyfire who are doing dirt-cheap endoscopes on Amazon and eBay at the moment - I picked one up for £15 which is easily small enough to fit into a spark plug hole (the main complaint I've heard about the cheap scopes you can buy is they're too wide for that). Even comes with a little magnetic probe for those "poo poo where did that part go?" moments. e: https://www.amazon.com/CrazyFire-2-0MP-Inspection-Camera-Locator/dp/B00EQNCMTY this is it on Amazon US.
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Jul 24, 2016 14:04
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Oh cool, ordered. That'll be super handy during my CCT build.
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Jul 24, 2016 17:23
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goddamnedtwisto posted:BTW, there's a company called (rather alarmingly) Crazyfire who are doing dirt-cheap endoscopes on Amazon and eBay at the moment - I picked one up for £15 which is easily small enough to fit into a spark plug hole (the main complaint I've heard about the cheap scopes you can buy is they're too wide for that). Even comes with a little magnetic probe for those "poo poo where did that part go?" moments. I've seen similarly teeny Chinese ones that even have micro-USB to hook up to smartphones. We're in the golden age of cheap, lovely endoscopes, lads.
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Jul 24, 2016 17:26
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N is for Nipples posted:I've seen similarly teeny Chinese ones that even have micro-USB to hook up to smartphones. We're in the golden age of cheap, lovely endoscopes, lads. The one I got has that and I assumed this one did too. Turns out it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4J8OJ4/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1 - cool connector design. I actually used it just today to help me thread a new hose through a statue/fountain this afternoon, in something that started feeling dangerously close to a medical procedure.
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Jul 24, 2016 22:47
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A couple weeks ago I was in here asking about an alarmingly loud "whine" coming from the ninja, after a chain and sprocket change. It's fully audible at highway speeds, as well as back roads. Nothing online or in here could pin it down, so I swapped out the front sprocket with the old one that was in there. The noise is gone, and the bike sounds "normal", now. Since this was all part of a DID chain and sprocket kit, and looks like the old one, I'm fairly confident it's the correct part. Do I just need to ride it a thousand miles or so to "wear in" the sprocket, to make the noise go away? I've never had this happen after a chain/sprocket swap.
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Jul 25, 2016 00:21
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Hello friends, I am a proud (and probably foolish) owner of a new 2015 MV Agusta Brutale 800. I am trying to figure out a good place on it for an anti-theft chain. I got a disc lock too, but it would help to have both for my peace of mind. The exhaust pipes by the engine front seem like a bad idea since they get very hot. Is attaching a chain to the forks a decent plan or would it be trivial to bypass?
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Jul 25, 2016 00:31
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Slavvy posted:I haven't tried a fresh set, both sets look good and gap correctly. The 'good' engine ones look practically brand new. Gonna quote myself for posterity/stupidity here. I just got it going. I learned two things today: 1. In 80's kawasaki upside-down land, the blue coil prong is negative and the black one is positive 2. Coils hooked up backwards still produce enough spark to make you think everything is working properly pokie posted:Hello friends, Through your fancy trellis frame is basically the only place worthwhile putting a chain through. More importantly, what object are you securing the chain to?
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Jul 25, 2016 00:58
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Slavvy posted:
There is maybe a quarter inch of space between the frame and other bike parts - a beefy chain can't fit :/. I am securing the chain to a ~3" wide water pipe. Bike is parked next to a wall, under a 2nd floor (weird building) and the water pipes are right next to my parking spot.
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Jul 25, 2016 01:03
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pokie posted:Hello friends, Is it the one with the hole between the seat and subframe? Don't know how strong that would be anyway. What about the hole in the swingarm that the chain passes through?
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Jul 25, 2016 04:36
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pokie posted:There is maybe a quarter inch of space between the frame and other bike parts - a beefy chain can't fit :/. Ok well putting it through anything that can be unbolted is not a good idea. This means your options are pretty much just the frame/subframe. Wheels can come off, fork triples can come off. Looping it around the lower triple would work though if that's possible on your bike. Linedance posted:Is it the one with the hole between the seat and subframe? Don't know how strong that would be anyway. What about the hole in the swingarm that the chain passes through? Also a good idea.
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Jul 25, 2016 04:47
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Coydog posted:Since this was all part of a DID chain and sprocket kit, and looks like the old one, I'm fairly confident it's the correct part. Do I just need to ride it a thousand miles or so to "wear in" the sprocket, to make the noise go away? I've never had this happen after a chain/sprocket swap. I can't help but wonder if that new front sprocket is messed up. Maybe it's manufacturing tolerances are all out of whack and causing the chain to bind on itself? Also a whirring noise is super common in chains but if it's a whine that sounds like metal-on-metal contact like a sprocket with teeth too wide scraping along the inside of the chain, possibly? Is it like a nails-on-chalkboard screech or like the whirring noise of the chain cranked up to a higher pitch?
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Jul 25, 2016 05:00
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Bad wheel alignment can cause grinding noises.
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Jul 25, 2016 05:25
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Z3n posted:If it's got gas and air, and is sparking, all that's left is ignition. what about compression?
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Jul 25, 2016 16:24
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Ripoff posted:I can't help but wonder if that new front sprocket is messed up. Maybe it's manufacturing tolerances are all out of whack and causing the chain to bind on itself? It sounds exactly like an electric motor, or a loud supercharger. About as loud as the engine itself (!). The teeth looked pretty wide when I glanced at it, which is why I swapped the old one in to see if that was it. I doubt my eye can pick up minute manufacturing widths, though. I'll contact the seller I got this from. Ola posted:Bad wheel alignment can cause grinding noises. It's totally in alignment, fortunately. The problem started as soon as I installed the new front sprocket, and went away as soon as I put the old sprocket back on.
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Jul 25, 2016 20:49
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:what about compression? I omitted that because he said he'd checked it
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Jul 25, 2016 20:56
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Coydog posted:It sounds exactly like an electric motor, or a loud supercharger. About as loud as the engine itself (!). The teeth looked pretty wide when I glanced at it, which is why I swapped the old one in to see if that was it. I doubt my eye can pick up minute manufacturing widths, though. I'll contact the seller I got this from. Did you put the sprocket in back to front? Alternatively, do you have the incorrect chain on your bike to start with so putting on the 'correct' sprocket gets you a mismatched set?
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Jul 25, 2016 22:18
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Sprocket is on the right way. Chain is part of a kit, and I just checked that the chain's box said 520, which is correct. The sprocket is a unique design, with two threaded holes on it, so it's unlikely that I was sent the wrong front sprocket. I would love to know what's up with the sprocket I have. If I didn't know better, I'd think that the sprocket was supposed to get worn down by the chain and stop making noise. But that's insanity. Amazon quickly got back to me and is going to credit me 25.00 for the sprocket, so I can buy a replacement, which I thought was pretty great of them. There is a reason why I get anything I can from them. I just wish I knew what this was all about.
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Jul 25, 2016 23:53
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Coydog posted:I just wish I knew what this was all about. I'm just going to guess that you have a badly manufactured sprocket that may have hosed up teeth or something minute, as you said.  That said make sure you don't go too far/long on the "old" sprocket up front with the new chain. I'm far from an expert but I was always told that chains should wear in with their sprockets, and that changing either can result in funky wear.
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Jul 26, 2016 04:04
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Thanks Ripoff, I wasn't aware of that. Sadly, I have to put about 700 miles on it on a trip in the next few days, but I'll swap it when I get back.
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Jul 26, 2016 15:09
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Sanity check. Haven't done a coolant swap since the ninja. Drain it from wherever, fill radiator, "burp" by running (not too hot), do several times till no more "burps", fill overflow to cold level once cooled? The gsxr also has a coolant bleeder under the tank, which I suppose needs to be cracked after the burping or thereabouts.
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Jul 27, 2016 02:44
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The manual ought to have the recharge procedure, right? For "burping", my Hawk manual just says to idle the engine for a minute with the cap open, then snap the throttle open three or four times.
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Jul 27, 2016 03:16
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If you're trying to get actual coolant out you're gonna need to do this like five times to actually get all of the coolant out, along with getting it hot enough for the t-stat to open.
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Jul 27, 2016 03:27
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M42 posted:Sanity check. Haven't done a coolant swap since the ninja. Drain it from wherever, fill radiator, "burp" by running (not too hot), do several times till no more "burps", fill overflow to cold level once cooled? The gsxr also has a coolant bleeder under the tank, which I suppose needs to be cracked after the burping or thereabouts. No, open the bleeder while you're filling the system so the air trapped behind the thermostat gets pushed out and none gets trapped up there. 99% of the time the bleeder is located at a high spot on the wrong side of the thermostat for this exact reason. Sometimes there is more than one bleeder.
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Jul 27, 2016 04:01
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I've also had success with burping by tilting the bike to the left and right slightly. More bubbles came out from this, even after having revved the engine.
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Jul 27, 2016 12:56
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Slide Hammer posted:I've also had success with burping by tilting the bike to the left and right slightly. More bubbles came out from this, even after having revved the engine. This definitely works, especially when the bike has that retarded layout where the radiator cap is on an angle that vaguely but not really matches the side stand angle instead of just being vertical.
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Jul 27, 2016 18:54
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 If I had the lips of this box removed or the welds cut and folded over inside and welded down, will it ruin the structural integrity of it? I hate dealing with them when putting poo poo in and pulling out of the box, things get caught, bags rip, super annoying. The boxes came with the bike and I can't really justify buying new ones.
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Jul 28, 2016 00:27
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I can't tell how thick the metal is. If you grab the lip and try to bend it up and down, does the lip visibly flex? If so, then yeah, you're going to have problems with the structural integrity of the box. The small flat panels at the top of the box prevent it from skewing off-square, because it would need to stretch the metal of the lip to change the angle of the corner. Consider what happens when you squeeze the sides of a cardboard box with an open top, vs. squeezing one that's closed -- the same thing is going on here. If the lip doesn't noticeably bend, then the metal and welds might be strong enough on their own to resist the skew. It's still going to be weakened, but maybe not noticeably. If you do want to modify it, folding the lips over is better than removing them entirely, if just so that you have a nice round hem that won't cut stuff up. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jul 28, 2016 |
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Jul 28, 2016 01:41
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The metal is 2mm and the lip is 3/4". I pushed and pulled it and felt no movement. I had considered losing the rigidity and thought maybe leaving the two smaller lip pieces, or maybe welding/riveting in something inside the top on the short edge or the corners to keep it from moving.
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Jul 28, 2016 02:14
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You could also put something under that lip that is wedge shaped to stop things from catching. If it was me if so inclined I'd cut a piece of wood into a wedge or triangle and sand and paint it and attach it with small screws or adhesive. Maybe even Velcro if I didn't want it to be permanent.
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Jul 28, 2016 03:29
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kenny powerzzz posted:You could also put something under that lip that is wedge shaped to stop things from catching. If it was me if so inclined I'd cut a piece of wood into a wedge or triangle and sand and paint it and attach it with small screws or adhesive. Maybe even Velcro if I didn't want it to be permanent. This was my first thought.
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Jul 28, 2016 03:41
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Bit of quarter round would do the trick.
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Jul 28, 2016 03:50
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That lip is helping keep dust and water out.
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Jul 28, 2016 05:08
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kenny powerzzz posted:You could also put something under that lip that is wedge shaped to stop things from catching. If it was me if so inclined I'd cut a piece of wood into a wedge or triangle and sand and paint it and attach it with small screws or adhesive. Maybe even Velcro if I didn't want it to be permanent. This but with foam blocks. Wood is 
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Jul 28, 2016 06:45
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