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Spazz posted:Any recommendations for a low angle smoothing plane? I don't have room for a jointer. The veritas small BU smoother is probably the best low angle plane for smoothing tasks. However a small smoothing plane is not a substitute for a powered jointer in the slightest, for that you'd want a fore or jointer plane. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Aug 11, 2016 |
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Aug 11, 2016 15:11
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I eagerly await your spring-loaded death-trap and/or goon masterpiece. Either way, we all win.
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Aug 11, 2016 16:41
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GEMorris posted:The veritas small BU smoother is probably the best low angle plane for smoothing tasks. However a small smoothing plane is not a substitute for a powered jointer in the slightest, for that you'd want a fore or jointer plane. I've got an old No. 4 Sweetheart that's fantastic for smoothing, so I may look at a proper jointer plane for larger boards/tables. The Veritas one is a little more than I wanted to spend, but that fence combo looks amazing. http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=52414&cat=1,41182,52515 Might see if I can talk my Dad into going halves on one.
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Aug 11, 2016 17:24
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So I didn't really consider this earlier but that danish oil sure does, uh, smell. I was reading about it and I guess it can take several weeks for that to go away? Meanwhile my apartment smells like an indoor basketball court and I'd rather it not. Anything I can put on top of it to seal in the smell? Some googling said shellac would work okay, is that a good idea?
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Aug 12, 2016 14:29
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:So I didn't really consider this earlier but that danish oil sure does, uh, smell. I was reading about it and I guess it can take several weeks for that to go away? Meanwhile my apartment smells like an indoor basketball court and I'd rather it not. Anything I can put on top of it to seal in the smell? Some googling said shellac would work okay, is that a good idea? It will stop smelling faster than tha in my experience (though maybe I just grew to ignore/like the smell...) You don't want to seal it because that will keep the oil from drying. You could coat it with some beeswax if you wanted.
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Aug 12, 2016 14:37
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Thus far, I've built myself a nightstand. My sister would like some baby things built for my future niece. I'm wondering if there's anything I should know about dos and don'ts of woodworking and babies? I'm guessing no small parts like screws, sand everything, no sharp corners, avoid wood stain. Anything else? Any types of wood I shouldn't use?
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Aug 12, 2016 17:03
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huhu posted:Thus far, I've built myself a nightstand. My sister would like some baby things built for my future niece. I'm wondering if there's anything I should know about dos and don'ts of woodworking and babies? I'm guessing no small parts like screws, sand everything, no sharp corners, avoid wood stain. Anything else? Any types of wood I shouldn't use? I'd avoid finishes that create a surface layer, like polyurethane, because they'll just end up flaking off when the kid gnaws on it. Speaking of, if you care about toothmarks, use harder woods. Naturally, stick to food-safe finishes; pure tung oil is a good one. And sand like hell if you have a wood type that's prone to splintering. For profiles, I just slapped a 1/4" roundoff on all of my for-kids stuff. It's not remotely artistic, but that's not really the goal here.
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Aug 12, 2016 17:13
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huhu posted:Thus far, I've built myself a nightstand. My sister would like some baby things built for my future niece. I'm wondering if there's anything I should know about dos and don'ts of woodworking and babies? I'm guessing no small parts like screws, sand everything, no sharp corners, avoid wood stain. Anything else? Any types of wood I shouldn't use? Something to keep in mind is that babies grow super fast so most of the furniture is only used for a couple years. You can build cribs that transform into toddler beds to squeeze a couple more years out of them but after that most of them go to yard sales or thrift stores. A crib/bed is a good example where a plan is better than winging it as presumably someone will have already thought through the safety aspects. Stick with common domestic hardwoods and you'll be fine. Changing tables should have sides because babies squirm and roll around. You can make a combination changing table/dresser that flips upside down so the sides become the feet when the kid reaches toddlerhood. It's a little early for toys but the simpler the better -- blocks, boxes, anything that stacks or fits inside another thing; toddlers love that stuff. Believe me, blocks are entertaining right up until teenage years.
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Aug 12, 2016 18:32
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Similarly, mineral oil. Shellac is a kid-safe finish too. As to the wood, some exotics (e.g. cocobolo, rosewood) are known allergens/sensitizers. Others, like Yew, are toxic. There's a big chart here, which seems fairly credible and lists sources. http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/ Edit: of course, I doubt you'd actually be making toys out of cocobolo anyway. And most of the irritants listed there are more for inhalation of dust than gnawing on the wood, so take it with a grain salt 
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Aug 12, 2016 18:36
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Hubis posted:It will stop smelling faster than tha in my experience (though maybe I just grew to ignore/like the smell...) You don't want to seal it because that will keep the oil from drying. You could coat it with some beeswax if you wanted. I've noticed that I can only really smell it when I first walk in the door after getting home from work and then I guess my nose just tunes it out while actually home, I'd just rather not have guests (or maintenance) think I live in a chemical plant  In hindsight I probably should have left it outside longer but now that it's all assembled i'd have to unbolt everything to get the tabletop back out there and 
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Aug 12, 2016 19:19
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:I've noticed that I can only really smell it when I first walk in the door after getting home from work and then I guess my nose just tunes it out while actually home, I'd just rather not have guests (or maintenance) think I live in a chemical plant Open some windows and fan out the apartment when it's not hotter than Satan's Taint outside. It's probably just residual odor at this point anyways.
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Aug 12, 2016 20:00
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Hubis posted:Open some windows and fan out the apartment when it's not hotter than Satan's Taint outside. It's probably just residual odor at this point anyways. I also probably shouldn't have done this while living in Florida in the summer 
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Aug 12, 2016 20:04
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FUUUUUu- My bandsaw blade snapped. Now I'm out of blades. Damnit both my tuffsaws blades have broken, the 1/4 one a few months ago and this one just today. I bought this one in december 2014 so I got some years use out of it, and one resharpening. I dunno is this normal life expectancy for bandsaw blades?
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Aug 13, 2016 13:30
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Is it as horrifying as I'm picturing when a bandsaw blade snaps?
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Aug 13, 2016 13:39
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Slugworth posted:Is it as horrifying as I'm picturing when a bandsaw blade snaps? It's kind of surprising, but it's not likely to cause injury. There's not that much tension (or mass) in the blade, and the saw housing and the workpiece will conspire to ensure that the blade doesn't have a lot of room to flail around causing injury. Assuming you're using proper protective equipment and cutting technique, I expect the worst that could happen is you end up with some minor lacerations.
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Aug 13, 2016 13:48
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Slugworth posted:Is it as horrifying as I'm picturing when a bandsaw blade snaps? Normal bandsaws and < 3/4" blades aren't really scary at all. There's nowhere for the blade to go because of the guides and wheel covers, so it will snap and stop instantly in the cut instead of noodling all over the place and trying to kill you. Band mills, however I blow up blades on the mill on a semi-regular basis and it's fairly exciting. 
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Aug 13, 2016 13:53
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It's a loud bang and it scares the poo poo out of you, then you look and see the blade sticking out with one broken end hanging loose. By then I just give up and go inside, my bandsaw takes several minutes to spin down.
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Aug 13, 2016 14:12
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Back in middle school shop class I always managed to be the person who broke the bandsaw blade, doing it like 4 different times. Scared the gently caress out of everyone in the shop every time too so I got to stand there and be all "s-sorry guys" each time while the teacher got another one out and replaced it 
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Aug 13, 2016 16:26
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I just read an article about silver brazing your own bandsaw blade back together, make it happen.
Free Market Mambo fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Aug 13, 2016 |
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Aug 13, 2016 16:37
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Free Market Mambo posted:Just read an article about silver brazing your own bandsaw blade back together, make it happen. The machinist next door to my work will fix ours up a couple times before we get a new blade. The fix seems to last, the next break is usually in a different location.
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Aug 13, 2016 16:58
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The big industrial band saw my alma mater has in their machine shop has a built in station for cutting and welding blades together, so they can just get a spool of blade.
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Aug 13, 2016 22:26
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Retried this: and ended up with this:  This was a gift for Mrs. Trabant who doesn't like shiny wood things so I finished it with BLO off the lathe. Lessons learned: 1) That crack going down the middle of the stock really limited what I felt comfortable doing, but it's the wood I had on hand... It adds gobs of character, but means I had to back off on how aggressive I could get in shaping the piece. 2) I need to be a lot more careful when trying to achieve a friction fit of the lid. I accidentally ended up making the lid fit very loose, so I had to improvise with that tiny bead you can see at the bottom of the tenon. It made the tenon just wide enough for the lid to grab onto -- it holds really well, but I wish I didn't have to do that. 3) Related to #1: If I hadn't been so afraid of ripping the whole thing apart, I would've kept the bottom/lid proportions closer to a 2:1 ratio like I originally intended, as well as making the box much deeper. But once I got to a point where it seemed like I was pushing my luck, I stopped. More pictures in the projects thread.
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Aug 14, 2016 00:27
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Very nice. Our local woodworking club demonstrated stabilizing wood with cracks or burls using resin. He did it for knife handles and pens. It was an interesting process where he submerged the wood in the resin and applied vacuum to pull the air out. He poured the leftover resin back in the bottle then baked the wood at 200F or so. Then it was set and you could start shaping the wood safely. His examples did have that polished plastic feel but it definitely has its applications.
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Aug 14, 2016 02:40
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You can also use cracks as an excuse to fill in with colored resins or epoxies, or do inlay with crushed stone and CA glue for an extra decorative touch. Some folks have also used glow in the dark pigments in clear epoxy, which is pretty neat.
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Aug 14, 2016 03:21
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Build a cherry/walnut box this week to store some beer steins for a wedding gift but was in such a rush to finish I completely failed to even take any pictures before running off to the wedding. You'll just have to believe me that it looked amazing and completely flawless.
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Aug 14, 2016 23:27
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bred posted:Very nice. Our local woodworking club demonstrated stabilizing wood with cracks or burls using resin. He did it for knife handles and pens. It was an interesting process where he submerged the wood in the resin and applied vacuum to pull the air out. He poured the leftover resin back in the bottle then baked the wood at 200F or so. Then it was set and you could start shaping the wood safely. His examples did have that polished plastic feel but it definitely has its applications. I absolutely understand what you mean by the plasticky feel. I've used stabilized wood for knife handles and they do feel a little fake, although not all of them. Would've made my life a lot easier with this chunk of wood, that's for sure. Parts Kit posted:You can also use cracks as an excuse to fill in with colored resins or epoxies, or do inlay with crushed stone and CA glue for an extra decorative touch. Some folks have also used glow in the dark pigments in clear epoxy, which is pretty neat. It really does sound tempting, if beyond my skillset. But that's how we grow, right? Keep your ambition greater than your abilities
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Aug 15, 2016 05:15
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I haven't done any woodworking since I was a high school senior, but I've got enough space now to begin and I'd like to get to a point eventually where I can make a few pieces of furniture for the house. From some basic home construction we've done around the house, I have a contractor-style portable table saw and a miter saw, as well as an orbital sander and handheld router. However, I don't have the budget for a big dust collection system at the moment, and I'm hesitant to pick up any other powered equipment without dust collection and a fan to move some air out the back door. In the meantime, I'm thinking about starting with hand tools. Has anyone tried to make a Paul Sellers style workbench? Is that as straightforward as he makes it seem given the youtube series, or does the fact that he's got 50 years of experience let him gloss over some of the issues that will trip me up?
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Aug 15, 2016 17:25
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As always, I have to chime in and say the nicholson bench by Siemsen/Schwarz is, imo, a better bench for the same effort. There are also plans for a knockdown version available.
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Aug 15, 2016 17:58
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That's great, thank you. I'll look into it - really the only reason I was planning on the Sellers table was the fairly in-depth explanation of how to build it.
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Aug 15, 2016 18:48
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I've always thought the Nicholson was really neat, although it's not totally clear to me why the longer skirt. Doesn't that interfere with top-down clamping? Or is the idea that you're getting clamping from the dogs/middle batten such that you never need to do top down clamping?
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Aug 16, 2016 00:08
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Trabant posted:It really does sound tempting, if beyond my skillset. But that's how we grow, right? Keep your ambition greater than your abilities https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePc7DPcqGhQ The stuff with crushed stone is pretty similar, only you pack the crushed stone into the cracks and then put the super thin CA glue on top. It flows down and holds everything in place and then you just sand flush again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qPWU-96mY4
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Aug 16, 2016 00:49
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Tim Thomas posted:I've always thought the Nicholson was really neat, although it's not totally clear to me why the longer skirt. Doesn't that interfere with top-down clamping? Or is the idea that you're getting clamping from the dogs/middle batten such that you never need to do top down clamping? Top down clamping is accomplished with holdfasts.
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Aug 16, 2016 02:08
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Is a $150 bandsaw too good to be true? On a scale from 1 to band-snapping-and-ripping-my-face-off, how bad is it?
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Aug 16, 2016 17:52
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Cheap bandsaws exist, and are cheap. I have no experience with that one but I wouldn't expect it to be very good.
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Aug 16, 2016 18:00
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Spazz posted:Is a $150 bandsaw too good to be true? On a scale from 1 to band-snapping-and-ripping-my-face-off, how bad is it? This is the one I'm looking at getting as soon as I can drop the cash. It's listed cheaper on Sears than amazon, where it's closer to $280. The reviews I've seen of it have been positive too. http://www.sears.com/wen-10-inch-two-speed-band-saw-with/p-00950627000P
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Aug 16, 2016 18:01
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Not sure about that band saw, but I have a small Delta that's around the same size. The biggest issues I find with a small bandsaw are the very underpowered motor, and it can be really hard to cut straight and get proper tension. Though the later could be due to me sucking. I've broken a couple blades on mine from working it too hard.
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Aug 16, 2016 18:02
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Find a pre-90's delta or Rockwell 14"-er if your goal is to spend the least but still have a good bandsaw.
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Aug 16, 2016 18:09
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Spazz posted:On a scale from 1 to band-snapping-and-ripping-my-face-off, how bad is it? Bandsaws do not do this when their blades break. Not at all. Small benchtop bandsaws generally suck in my opinion.
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Aug 16, 2016 18:13
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Yeah blades breaking are more startling than anything. The blade generally stops immediately, usually stuck in your wood, but its accompanied with a loud bang that freaks you out.
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Aug 16, 2016 18:29
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Spazz posted:Is a $150 bandsaw too good to be true? On a scale from 1 to band-snapping-and-ripping-my-face-off, how bad is it? I agree with GEMorris. Small band saws are pretty much all the same except for cosmetic differences.
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Aug 16, 2016 18:31
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