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Yeah, you know what they are! I bought the Kayak today and they had me take it home on these horrible foam things that dented my roof (temporarily). The metal and paint on these things is already eggshell fragile, I'm not sure I want to do much more bending if I can help it. I'll have to see what I can find for stock racks locally. The problem with craigslist is that people in my city don't seem to understand that CL is a "sell my used poo poo" site, not "sell these items for exactly what I paid for them ten years ago".
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Aug 27, 2016 02:44
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Hey, Mazda3 owners. My wife and I both drive manual Subarus. She injured her left foot last year and has had three surgeries and probably needs another one, but the surgeon won't do it until next year. We have been borrowing an automatic and leant her car to that person, but now we're looking for something longer term. I'm going to sell or trade my 150k mile 2009 WRX in, and on the list is a Mazda 3 from the 2008-2010 range. My first car was a Ford, and after that it was an Impreza and after that it was a WRX. When I met my wife, she had an Impreza, and then she had a Cabrio, then an Impreza, then an Impreza. So, I know Subarus pretty well, and the ones in our price range are overpriced given that they'll need head gaskets. Anyway, how easy are the Mazda3s to work on? What should I be looking out for in a ~80k mile example? We are only planning to keep it until her foot is better, and maybe long enough for Subaru to have WRX Wagons again and then I'll trade it towards one of them. Just trying to get some starter info from people who know then.
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Aug 29, 2016 01:35
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Has anyone had a problem on the 2010-2013 era 3s where the dashboard pad above the GPS/trip computer and radio displays has popped apart? My 2011 now has a pretty unsightly gap inbetween them now, and I think it just popped up out of nowhere in the past week. I've heard of melting dashboards on that era of car but has anyone had issues with cracks or just simply coming apart?
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Aug 29, 2016 01:38
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kefkafloyd posted:Has anyone had a problem on the 2010-2013 era 3s where the dashboard pad above the GPS/trip computer and radio displays has popped apart? My 2011 now has a pretty unsightly gap inbetween them now, and I think it just popped up out of nowhere in the past week. I've heard of melting dashboards on that era of car but has anyone had issues with cracks or just simply coming apart? Yup, big time, the curve over the the info/mileage panel swelled and busted the glass off. Pushed it roughly vertical again so I can see and have just left it alone. No point in gluing it back, Texas heat is a bitch. Windows tinted, sun shade, made no difference. Think the heat may be causing black lines in my rearview mirror too. Anyone have good upholstery stain remover recommendations? Had a soda explode and paint the front ceiling, etc. used an electric carpet cleaner on it, thought it came clean but now it looks lovely.
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Aug 29, 2016 04:10
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Mr. Powers posted:Hey, Mazda3 owners. My wife and I both drive manual Subarus. She injured her left foot last year and has had three surgeries and probably needs another one, but the surgeon won't do it until next year. We have been borrowing an automatic and leant her car to that person, but now we're looking for something longer term. I have a '09 Hatchback. The engines are pretty much bulletproof. Look for rust around wheelwells/back hatch. Check rear suspension mounts, they're notorious for being junk. The 5AT is a decent tranny, doesn't hunt for gears. You may get vibration at 55MPH/90KPH, this is an engine mount thing apparently. Check rear sway bar bushings, they tend to go very early and let out nice CLUNKS. They're solid little cars if they're not rusted to hell and back.
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Aug 29, 2016 15:23
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Does bulletproof motor apply to both the 2.0 and 2.5?
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Aug 29, 2016 16:57
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There is a local used dealership with a 2012 Mazda3 s sedan with 27k on it in "excellent" condition for $8,000. Something seems off. NADA price is like $11,500 or thereabouts.
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Aug 30, 2016 04:19
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Salvage car for sure.
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Aug 30, 2016 14:03
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I am now the owner of a 2011 Mazda3 Sport something-something with what the dealer thought was 61,000 miles, but I figured out (and kept to myself) were 61,000 km. Outside temperature is reported in C and the speedometer has kph big and mph small on the inside. I can live with that for a good (made better because metric) deal.
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Sep 9, 2016 23:48
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You should also have DRLs! You can change the temperature display to F, I believe.
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Sep 10, 2016 07:06
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[Posted edited for brevity] Bought an MS6 GT used almost a year ago; clutch went out after 2 months, bought out of the financing with life savings, TIME TO GET TO WORK. Mods discovered so far: - "A" Pillar boost gauge, may fly off in accident and hit me in face when curtains deploy. - Unichip Engine Management system, now deprecated. - AEM intake(?) - Sweet "custom" turbo plumbing - Magnaflows - Stage 2 check engine light The car, super rad.  Dat pedal shear (Pedal's been fixed, but now fork may be out.)  Where we stand; it still works even after 8 months of sitting!  Plans, to keep myself organized: 1) Polish headlights, wash car 2) Remove boost gauge from A-pillar, reinstall elsewhere. 3) Remove outdated nav system. It's really cool, but the screen doesn't always work correctly, so it needs to be bagged and tagged safely. I will probably put a gauge pod in its place. 4) Lubricate/replace sticking/nonfunctional driver front and rear power window assemblies as needed. 5) Figure out where the open teed and loose vent lines go, pictures follow if any of you can link to an FSM or can look at it and tell me what's up. 6) Clutch job; car does not start from stop, it bogs trying to go into first or reverse pretty quickly and stalls out. I'm betting clutch release fork has a stress fracture, or its pivot was crushed. 7) Thermostat. It was being sticky in winter, I don't like sticky thermostats. 8) Find a used set of Evo X/GSR wheels with tires; current Enkeis that came on the vehicle are slightly bent, and the tires are mostly poo poo. Really don't hold air as well as they should, probably not going to pass next inspection. The GSR wheels look and fit *great* on the car; Mustangs and Subaru products also have similar stock offsets. GOOD NEWS: I live in Texas so I can run Summer Performance tires year-round. 9) Probably get a new intake for this thing, I have no idea what the PO did here, it seems to be an AEM poduct with some customization to it, the rhino-lining on it rubs the battery which is probably not safe. 10) Get a blade key. It only came with a valet key. poo poo pisses me off. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 19:05
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drat son. When you give up on I will buy the scrap.
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Sep 11, 2016 00:22
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Rhyno posted:drat son. Tough, I know, especially considering all the implications of the PO's mods, and the work required. I did consider parting it, but decided against it. I enjoyed driving it while I had it, and it deserves better. The following problems will be corrected with an intake and a front-mount, but of course we need a picture tour of this sweet-rear end "intake." We'll start where the compressor goes into the intercooler. I guess that's like a radiator hose or something that someone bunged?  I have no idea what this little open white plastic tee would be for. My first thought was "boost gauge", as it's directly after the compressor housing, but I'm pretty sure that's the thin, plastic tube that comes from behind the master cylinder reservoir. The other end goes back into the intake, which seems legit.  The intake. Cold air is not handled well on this car, whether pre or post compressor wheel. The cone filter here could probably be in an even cooler location:  Intake rubs on battery. I have no idea how this passed inspection at the dealership I bought it from. They were not a fly by night operation, and well-resourced.  Further forward, we peek under this elbow...  ...to find this uhhh whatever this open 90' elbow is. Does this do anything that isn't "impede the shifter weight"?  Inadvisable boost gauge placement w/r/t curtain airbags: 
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Sep 11, 2016 |
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Sep 11, 2016 01:12
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I need a little help here. My ignition knob base from the Miata shattered. My MS6 still has one but I can't figure out how to remove it without breaking that one. Is there a trick to this? Pic of my busted rear end one 
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Sep 11, 2016 05:01
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Got in on the $259 lease deal for a 2016 Mazda6 Sport today. Rolled up the negative equity on my Fist into the lease and traded it in, it's good to be back in a Mazda (previously had a 2001 Miata LS). This car is very comfortable and I love it so far! AI will likely say it's a downgrade (and is in a lot of ways) but I needed something less bone shattering for a daily driver. I will miss the FiST, she was good to me and a hell of a lot of fun to drive but I was getting tired of it. It was super stiff, very noisy inside, had a lovely interior, Sync sucked rear end, and the insurance was expensive. But man it was fun to drive.  edit: I'll need to change my avatar now.
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Sep 11, 2016 07:28
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re: my search for a roof rack for my 2009 (gen 1.5) 5dr 3 gently caress it. I bought this off eBay because it's like 1/4 the price that everyone here wants to install a Thule or Yakima. Obviously it's going to be poo poo but I just need it to carry a kayak and snowboard without denting my roof so how bad can it be, right?  I guess if it really sucks I'll throw it up on Craigslist for twice the price I paid for it, like every other wanker trying to sell a roof rack here  I can't tell if this is going to fit my factory mounts or if it's going to be a frame grabber but I guess either way I'll be OK.
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Sep 12, 2016 00:34
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You're going to want to use factory mounts whenever you can, because using "clip" system like the one you ordered tends to cause leaks because they grab over the weather seals. I love my Yakima rack, but the leaking is a PITA. If I ever get a Mazda 3 or 2 I'm using the factory poo poo I don't care how much it costs.
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Sep 12, 2016 02:30
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I have one of these on my 2. It was only around 225 or something when I bought it and uses the factory mounts [url]Rola 59762 47" Universal Lockable Aluminum Cross Bar https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008HBM8GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LDG1xbPTVD263.
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Sep 12, 2016 02:41
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Is the one I bought for sure a clip system? I don't see the clips but I guess I'll live with it either way for now.
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Sep 12, 2016 03:01
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leica posted:You're going to want to use factory mounts whenever you can, because using "clip" system like the one you ordered tends to cause leaks because they grab over the weather seals. I love my Yakima rack, but the leaking is a PITA. If I ever get a Mazda 3 or 2 I'm using the factory poo poo I don't care how much it costs. Thules (and I assume some Yakimas) work with the OEM mounts. They're just little threaded holes in the roof and don't go anywhere near the doors.
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Sep 12, 2016 06:25
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yeah I use a Yakima. I had to remove the gutter guard on my 3 and drill holes in it. Eventually I just ordered the gutter guards with the covers. I guess they were stock in Canada. Also don't do what I did and overtighten the mounts. Now the threads stick out of the holes. I don't know if I bent the roof or what. CharlesM posted:Nah, on the roof. I special ordered these, they have little removable covers that expose the hidden mounting points for a roof rack. I drilled into my stock ones because I was in a hurry before. I don't know why they're special order in the U.S. Guess they don't expect any U.S. owners to use a roof rack or whatever. The factory mounting points are there and work great.
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Sep 12, 2016 06:38
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Just pulled the trigger on friday on this 2014 CX-5, FWD Grand Touring, which will replace our TDI.  Bought through beepi and should be delivered in about 2 weeks.
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Sep 12, 2016 18:26
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That is a drat fine looking vehicle. drat fine.
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Sep 12, 2016 18:33
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I think I've finally figured out what I have: 2011 Mazda3 GS wagon. It seems like some sort of wagon i model (it has the 2.0), but has some upgrades that the US base model i sedans don't have (alloy wheels). There is no direct equivalent American model. Based on the new info, I still got a good deal, but less good than I thought.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:26
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Is that an actual station wagon model (stretched cargo area behind the rear seats) or just a different name for a 5 door hatch?
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Sep 12, 2016 22:39
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Probably a hatch. I can never tell which is which. Size wise the cargo area is only slightly smaller than my wagon WRX. I don't think the body is different than the US models so if the term here is hatchback, then this is a hatchback.
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Sep 12, 2016 23:31
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It sounds like you got a Canadian car, and afaik we call it a hatchback. You sure it's the 2.0? They did the trim levels and engines weird for the 2nd gen. The GS sedan got the 2.0, while the GS hatch was supposed to get the 2.5.
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Sep 13, 2016 00:33
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Phy posted:It sounds like you got a Canadian car, and afaik we call it a hatchback. You sure it's the 2.0? They did the trim levels and engines weird for the 2nd gen. The GS sedan got the 2.0, while the GS hatch was supposed to get the 2.5. The only site that I tried that decoded the VIN into anything useful was http://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php E: JM1bl1kf5b1474532 Other sites confirm 2.0 but they all have different trim names. One calls it an i Sport. I put a request in with mazda.ca to see if they could get me info. carticket fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Sep 13, 2016 |
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Sep 13, 2016 01:26
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2.0L (non-pzev) with side & curtain airbags. http://protegefaq.net
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Sep 13, 2016 01:38
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CharlesM posted:2.0L (non-pzev) with side & curtain airbags. So, according to Wikipedia the only trim that ticks all the boxes (really just 2.0 non Skyactiv, 5 door) is the GX.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:09
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After about seven years of ownership, I've started to get bored with my (mostly) stock 2006 MS6. After looking at a ton of other cars, the only one I felt even remotely enthusiastic about was a 2014 Evo X MR. The more I thought about it though, the more I realized that since I'm not in my mid-thirties, daily driving an Evo would make me look like a stupid child, and it really isn't all that different from the car I have now. After talking to my wife about it, we figured out what would be the perfect car for me... a better Mazdaspeed6 So, I've got whole new breathing system on the way, including an 3" ATP intake, gt3071r turbo, 3" ATP downpipe and high-flow cat, ETS TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Corksport dual catback, and all the other piping and such necessary. I installed a Corksport BPV, and Cobb Accessport v3 after purchasing the other components, since I could just pick them up locally. Before that I had already installed a Sonic Tuning S3 coilovers set (nice struts, springs are too soft), Whiteline rear sway bar, Corksport rear motor mount, and the Corksport rear diff mount. Corksport is close enough that I can go there on my lunch break, so I tend to get a lot of stuff there. After I get the power increased, I'm planning on installing either the Corksport BBK (direct bolt-on), or getting a set of Evo Brembos (minor mod needed) so I can stop this 1.9 ton hunk of metal. I've also been playing with the idea of getting the bottom end built out, but I feel like dropping that much money in one fell swoop might be a bit premature.
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Sep 13, 2016 19:35
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Sounds excellent dude! Please detail your build as much as possible, I have similar plans now that money is finally starting to pile up a bit.
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Sep 14, 2016 04:35
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Rhyno posted:Sounds excellent dude! Please detail your build as much as possible, I have similar plans now that money is finally starting to pile up a bit. For sure. From what I've seen on similar builds , it should be making about 315awhp, though I think I'll probably keep it a bit lower for day to day use.
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Sep 14, 2016 18:04
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Found this guy selling a loaded CX-5 with some hail damage. http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/5772278604.html What do y'all think - is this a deal?
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Sep 14, 2016 20:37
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No way. Not with a car that new. No telling how much damage was done to that car without going through insurance. That car might be totalled from that, I'm not experienced with this kind of thing.
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Sep 14, 2016 20:46
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Going by the pictures, I wouldn't expect it to be totaled. With that said though, for something that needs as much body work as that does, I doubt you'd really save any money over new.
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Sep 14, 2016 21:07
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So this guy is just willing to take a hit on the car because...reasons? Doesn't sound right. Don't buy a hail damaged car if you can't do PDR yourself.
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Sep 14, 2016 21:10
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wondering if I can get some help on this: will the Metra 70-7903 wiring harness work to replace the stock Bose head unit with an aftermarket unit in a 2008.5 speed3? I've heard the pins don't match up correctly but i hoped someone else has tried it.
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Sep 15, 2016 04:48
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Bovril Delight posted:So this guy is just willing to take a hit on the car because...reasons? Doesn't sound right. Buy a hail damaged car if you don't care what it looks like and you can verify the glass didn't break (this means either orginal glass or photos of car before any glass repair). Also, you need to get a heavy discount. The fact that this doesn't have a salvage title is a plus, but you still want a near salvage price. Hail cars without broken glass are the only salvage cars even worth considering.
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Sep 15, 2016 04:54
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120k and oh hey it looks like my passenger motor mount failed yesterday. Green liquid spewed all over the ground and looking under the hood, it seems lower on the passenger side... I already have an AWR 88 duro rear motor mount and I'm pondering Damond to replace the blown passenger mount, anyone here using it? Car is a daily so trying not to add a ton of nvh. Using these threads as reference: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/jbr-engine-mounts-vibrations-noise-200748/ http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f661/damond-motorsports-pmm-review-181515/ The specific posts that got me considering Damond: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f661/damond-motorsports-mazdaspeed-3-pmm-177441/index3.html#post2775154 http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f661/damond-motorsports-mazdaspeed-3-pmm-177441/index4.html#post3039908 e: looked closer. Ah so it didn't explode like I've seen in pics/videos... that's why coolant was everywhere   Just loving glad that happened while I was parked plus the oil pan didn't hit the ground. air- fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 17, 2016 20:31
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