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Filthy Hans fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 15:24
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LmaoTheKid posted:Get a Denon. D: I bought a X1200 and no one stopped me.
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Aug 29, 2016 18:18
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i have an old rear end marantz that has to be manually calibrated and it still sounds pretty drat good. don't sweat it
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Aug 29, 2016 18:20
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Phone posted:D: The 1200 is really good too!
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Aug 29, 2016 18:22
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Can't see another thread which would be more appropriate for posting this question in, so I will try here. I recently scored an old Magnavox Astrosonic console stereo - replete with turntable AND 8-track.  I like the internal speakers on it - they have that sort of vintage hi-fi warmth to them that I remember from the ancient console in my grandparent's house as a kid. It has some external speaker outs on it, and I'd like to hook up a set of wireless speakers to it. I live in a loft so the console is kind of in the middle of the room, which is fine - I just don't want speaker wires spiderwebbing out all over the place. My problem is - as I have been googling, with regards to speakers at least - "wireless" has now become conflated with "bluetooth" so I am having trouble finding what I want which is basically: some kind of wireless transmitter I can hook the speaker outs to, which then sends sound to a pair of wireless speakers. Most of the bluetooth devices I can find want you to plug in the transmitter to the headphone jack, which seems like kind of a jury-rigged solution. If that's gonna be my only option - fine, but I'd have to be mucking about with 3.5mm -> 1/4" adapters, etc. and just....blah. So uh....help?
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Aug 29, 2016 20:07
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Phone posted:D: The differences between the X1200 and X2200 are NOT worth the increase in price, even refurbished, IMO. It's basically a tiny bit more power and some higher end shenanigans like old video format upscaling and dual video zones or some poo poo. My X1200 arrived literally today. 
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Aug 29, 2016 20:11
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I have an x1200 as well. I'd be shocked if the x2200 was actually more powerful. It's all marketing BS. Even if it was, you have to double the wattage to get 3dB louder.
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Aug 29, 2016 20:20
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A little headroom is never a bad thing though, especially with all these crazy modern setups with tons of speakers. I looked up the X1200 for kicks and my goodness the back panels of receivers have gotten simple since HDMI took over.
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Aug 29, 2016 20:24
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Pedialyte fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Sep 6, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 20:47
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HaB posted:Can't see another thread which would be more appropriate for posting this question in, so I will try here. Rocketfish: https://www.rocketfishproducts.com/home-theater/wireless-audio
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Aug 29, 2016 21:04
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Just an FYI the Polk audio ebay store is really good for getting closeouts and refurbs, and their customer service is really good if you screw up and don't notice that you bought a single speaker and not a pair like you intended.
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Aug 29, 2016 21:08
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Just FYI for anyone who has an Onkyo receiver with the audio issues- they directed me to a special page on their support site for those kinds of issues, so apparently it was common enough that they're offering a free repair or you can trade in for a new, $600 receiver for $250.
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Aug 31, 2016 00:32
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I'm thinking of diving into a home theater system this month. I bought a Vizio M a couple of months ago, and primarily watch movies while connected by hdmi to my pc. I'm also buying vinyl again and will be connecting a turntable. Not sure if I'll be connecting a bluray player, or console down the line, so a couple open hdmi ports would be great. I'd like to start with a 3.0 system, and I'm looking for a price drop on either the Pioneer Andrew Jones bookshelf and center, or Polk TSi100 and CS10. Any suggestions for a subwoofer to keep an eye on that fits my price bracket? And to tie it all together, can I just snag a cheap receive off of accessories4less? The Onkyo TX-SR343 is available for $150. Should I grab the receiver on sale in anticipation of the speakers dropping price, or just wait to get whatever is available all at once? When do they release new audio equipment, and cut prices on old models?
DarkSun6890 fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Sep 1, 2016 |
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Aug 31, 2016 18:48
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I feel like this is a dumb question. My brother has a Samsung HW-H551 2.1 soundbar (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HW-H...amsung+soundbar). Sub is wireless. Right now it's directly connected to his TV via HDMI-ARC. If he were to buy a receiver, what would be the best way to go about connecting the soundbar/subwoofer to it?
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Sep 5, 2016 02:15
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teagone posted:I feel like this is a dumb question. My brother has a Samsung HW-H551 2.1 soundbar (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HW-H...amsung+soundbar). Sub is wireless. Right now it's directly connected to his TV via HDMI-ARC. If he were to buy a receiver, what would be the best way to go about connecting the soundbar/subwoofer to it? Using receivers and soundbars together sounds like a bad idea. What would the receiver do that the current setup doesn't? Just HDMI switching? There's a simpler way to do that, an HDMI switch. Receivers exist to power speakers, adjust volume, do audio decoding, and other stuff that the soundbar does already.
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Sep 5, 2016 02:31
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I guess what I meant is there a way to maybe connect the soundbar to the receiver and have it act passively? Despite it not actually being a passive/non-powered soundbar, haha. Its specs list it as a 2.1 system, is there anyway I could make the sound bar act as the front left/right speakers when connected to the receiver? Do note, this would be a temporary solution until I convince my brother to get some nice floor standing or bookshelf speakers. He's basically just asking me if he could still make use of his soundbar if he were to throw a receiver into the mix. [edit] Would this work, even with the wireless sub? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-WHEAoE2HN9B/p_142LOC80/Scosche-LOC80.html teagone fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Sep 5, 2016 |
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Sep 5, 2016 11:05
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It's not going to work. You need real speakers.
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Sep 5, 2016 14:05
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Oh, just leave your brother alone, he seems happy with his soundbar
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Sep 5, 2016 14:59
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teagone posted:I feel like this is a dumb question. My brother has a Samsung HW-H551 2.1 soundbar (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HW-H...amsung+soundbar). Sub is wireless. Right now it's directly connected to his TV via HDMI-ARC. If he were to buy a receiver, what would be the best way to go about connecting the soundbar/subwoofer to it? There's no way of doing this that makes any sense. You'd need a receiver with optical out to send the unprocessed audio forward, making the receiver completely superfluous.
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Sep 5, 2016 15:19
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OK so apologies for dragging up my crappy panasonic sa-ak770 hifi again. It's main unit is kaput so just passive speakers and passive sub. I did however manage to find the tech specs however. Both the speakers and sub are 250w (max) and 6 ohm. Internet tells me to always match the amps rating with what it's going to power. Hell the unit was sold as 700w but 3 x 250w = 750w so I don't even know what to make of that. Iirc I was linked to a 2.1 t amp? But I think it was only 40w so I'm not sure if that would work either. I'm honestly really lost and confused. I can't even find a decisive answer as to if I could even run them on lower watts and i assume quieter volume? At this point I know the best answer is chuck all and buy new but I'm in the UK and currently trying to get a mortgage so money is tight. If I could get away with a cheap amp and hook up these speakers and sub it'd be great.
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Sep 6, 2016 16:07
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There aren't any cheap amps for passive subwoofers, barring you getting lucky with used units. You have four ways of doing this. Cheapest solution: open the broken unit up and see if it's something simple you can fix. Check that it's not protection mode. Also check if the fuse is blown, a new one costs pennies. Manual for replacing the fuse (p. 4): http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros/SA-AK770.pdf Buy cheap new set: Assuming you have a source (CD player, iPod etc.) the cheapest set I could scrounge up was this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LEPY-2024A-Plus-Amplifier/dp/B00SATAEEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473174637&sr=8-2&keywords=t-amp https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wharfedale...okshelf+speaker Plus wires if you need 'em. 3,5mm to RCA and speaker wire should cover your needs. Buy used: A Sony stereo amp should cover your needs nicely. Ebay.co.uk had several perfectly suitable units available. Note that you still need speakers but those can be bought used also. Buy more of the same: If you really like Panasonic mini stereos, why not buy a complete set from Ebay? Those are pretty cheap. F. ex. this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Panasonic-CD-Stereo-System-SA-AK630-/272364268884?hash=item3f6a2ced54:g:AXYAAOSwIgNXqhvC
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Sep 6, 2016 16:33
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Not entirely true. There's this one. Not sure if it's available in the UK though. https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO You could also use any stereo receiver with 2 sets of speaker outputs, but you're relying on the subs natural falloff as your crossover.
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Sep 6, 2016 17:12
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The bigger concern is if the satellites need to be high passed, and they probably do. Does the satellites daisy chain thru the sub or did they all connect directly to the amp? E: looked it up, discrete connections. Hard to say for sure but the satellites look like they can probably handle full range. Worst case scenario just hook up the satellites to a twi channel amp and forget the sub for now Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Sep 6, 2016 |
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Sep 6, 2016 18:10
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LmaoTheKid posted:It's not going to work. You need real speakers. Alrighty, just wanted to confirm. Thanks! Dogen posted:Oh, just leave your brother alone, he seems happy with his soundbar He's the one who asked me about getting a receiver and hooking up his soundbar to it haha. I told him just to get these https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-B...os+andrew+jones since he was already looking at an Atmos capable receiver, but he wanted to know if he could somehow utilize his soundbar instead of having to buy new speakers.
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Sep 7, 2016 12:24
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Thanks very much for the help everyone found a few of those 2.1 amps though they're shipped from China but still may give one a shot. I should clarify the main unit isn't totally broken but has issues loading the cds then refuses to do anything else. I did some more research and my symptoms, rapid clicking when trying to play a disc, is likely a worn tooth sonewhere in the multidisc cd part. So now I'm knee deep in cogs and tiny plastic parts and may have found the culprit. There are 2 sliding toothed legs, one toothed in the middle the other just at the ends. It appears to work by having one leg start the movement then the middle one takes over then the first leg finishes it. However the leg with toothed end segments has its 2 middle-most teeth chipped in half. Going to run it with the disc changer open and see if that's where it gets stuck. Not that I'm sure how to repair it if it is. I'm thinking remove broken teeth, make a tiny hole and superglue in a plastic dowel then file to shape. Wish me luck!
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Sep 7, 2016 13:21
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Help, I want to buy a “real” amp and I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed by different options. I’m pretty much decided on basic stereo amp or receiver priced between 200-300 € and have couple questions. First, do I need (or want) amp with sub pre-out? This setup is mostly used for music with source being my PC. I listen to all kinds of music but if I had to name something - jazz, classical, vocal, rock, stuff like that. Current speakers are Mission M30i. I’m happy with my current 2.0 setup but maybe I want to add sub later? Just want to keep my options open… But don’t most subs have speaker level input anyway and doesn’t that make it kinda moot point? Which one on the sub is better to use, line in or hi level input? Second, should I look for amp with optical input? I feel like it would be “cool” and nerdy thing to have but I probably don’t need it at all since, as far as I can tell right now, analog out on my PC is good and has no noise.
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Sep 7, 2016 13:25
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I would get a sub pre-out. You might want a sub later, or you might not, but if you do, then you already have the equipment. As for the optical input, I've never once said "I sure wish this receiver had fewer inputs" but if you're down to two options and one has the features you want but no optical, I wouldn't compromise otherwise.
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Sep 8, 2016 02:03
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Endless Mike posted:I would get a sub pre-out. You might want a sub later, or you might not, but if you do, then you already have the equipment. Thanks, I'm almost set on Yamaha A-S301 but that thing is huge... NAD 326 is smaller but much more expensive and loses digital inputs. Something like Denon PMA-720 is somewhere in the middle but does not have sub connection, only pre-out and no digital either. Choices choices... Onkyo reliability issues have been with their receivers and their amps are good, right?
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Sep 8, 2016 09:30
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ah forget it posted:Thanks, I'm almost set on Yamaha A-S301 but that thing is huge... NAD 326 is smaller but much more expensive and loses digital inputs. Something like Denon PMA-720 is somewhere in the middle but does not have sub connection, only pre-out and no digital either. Choices choices... As long as the amp has a set of preamp outputs and a set of main inputs, with a jumper between each of them, you're good to go. The Yamaha and the Denon don't have that, but the NAD does. You can go second-hand and get a slightly older NAD 320, or even a bigger model like a 350 instead, for less money. It's not like there have been massive advances in amplifier technology for a long time, anyway Just use the amp normally with your speakers and it'll work as normal. Then, when you want to add a sub, you just remove the jumpers, then route the preamp signal to an external active crossover or MiniDSP or similar device. Route the main speaker signal from the crossover/DSP back to the main inputs on your amplifier, and route the sub signal to your sub. Disable the sub's internal crossover, then use the volume control on the sub to match the volume level of your main speakers. Now you can use the volume control on your amplifier to control both the main speakers and the sub at the same time, and you have a proper crossover configured, so you don't get unnecessary frequency overlap between the speakers and the sub, which can happen when using the sub output directly from most stereo amps that have them, as there is no proper crossover built in, as there would be on a surround receiver. Some subs actually have the proper active crossover built in, so you can skip the external crossover. But those subs are few and far between, and it's inferior to something like a MiniDSP, where you can also do a bit of room correction and EQ, which is highly recommended for subwoofers. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 12:50
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Dolby Atmos bookshelf speakers are on Meh today. https://meh.com/
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Sep 8, 2016 16:18
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KozmoNaut posted:As long as the amp has a set of preamp outputs and a set of main inputs, with a jumper between each of them, you're good to go. The Yamaha and the Denon don't have that, but the NAD does. You can go second-hand and get a slightly older NAD 320, or even a bigger model like a 350 instead, for less money. It's not like there have been massive advances in amplifier technology for a long time, anyway Thanks for through explanation Lately I’ve read and learned so much! Well, enough to know I should have stopped punishing my ears with crappy PC speakers long time ago…Going to take it slow and think it over but probably will be getting Yamaha integrated amp, some guy from work has cheaper version of it and I quite liked what I heard from it. Already decided against getting a fancier receiver though – I feel like I want simpler setup that I expand as needed. I used to have simple Technics amp and old set of soviet era speakers that I stupidly sold looong time ago and I was shocked to find how much people pay for that same amp on ebay...
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Sep 8, 2016 16:59
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Wasn't sure to post this here or the pc speakers thread as it will do double duty. Im looking into setting up a new speaker system and was wondering if there is anything terrible or that I could improve with this setup. L/R speakers Polk Audio TSx 110B Bookshelf Speaker - Cherry https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHHCCXM/ Center speakers Polk Audio TSx 250c Center Channel Speaker - Cherry https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHHCAU2/ and receiver Sony STRDH550 5.2 Channel 4K AV Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J30GXW2/ It would be a stretch to push my budget any further right now but I can fill in with a subwoofer later. Cletus Van Damme fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 18:38
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DarkSun6890 posted:I'm thinking of diving into a home theater system this month. I bought a Vizio M a couple of months ago, and primarily watch movies while connected by hdmi to my pc. I'm also buying vinyl again and will be connecting a turntable. Not sure if I'll be connecting a bluray player, or console down the line, so a couple open hdmi ports would be great. I'd like to start with a 3.0 system, and I'm looking for a price drop on either the Pioneer Andrew Jones bookshelf and center, or Polk TSi100 and CS10. Any suggestions for a subwoofer to keep an eye on that fits my price bracket? And to tie it all together, can I just snag a cheap receive off of accessories4less? The Onkyo TX-SR343 is available for $150. Should I grab the receiver on sale in anticipation of the speakers dropping price, or just wait to get whatever is available all at once? When do they release new audio equipment, and cut prices on old models? So I started pulling the trigger on some stuff. I got the pioneer atmos bookshelf speakers from meh a couple day ago, and I bought the CS10 to go with it. I also have an Onkyo TX-SR444 on the way. So this will be a 3.0.2 setup, correct? If I watch a movie with a 5.1 track, would the atmos speakers be able to act as back speakers? What will the atmos speakers be doing during regular play?
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Sep 11, 2016 00:51
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I have a martin logan MLT2 5.1 speaker package. Thinking about selling it and buying a micca MB42x 5.1 system with a monoprice 12" sub. Total msrp is $370. Am i crazy?
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Sep 11, 2016 07:06
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Cornjob posted:I have a martin logan MLT2 5.1 speaker package. Thinking about selling it and buying a micca MB42x 5.1 system with a monoprice 12" sub. Total msrp is $370. yes
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Sep 11, 2016 14:55
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Cornjob posted:I have a martin logan MLT2 5.1 speaker package. Thinking about selling it and buying a micca MB42x 5.1 system with a monoprice 12" sub. Total msrp is $370. yes
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Sep 11, 2016 16:30
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taqueso posted:yes Can you elaborate? The ML system was their entry level, and wasnt made by ML... It was ODM'd by someone else. Are you familiar with both systems?
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Sep 11, 2016 17:24
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Cornjob posted:Can you elaborate? The ML system was their entry level, and wasnt made by ML... It was ODM'd by someone else. Are you familiar with both systems? I'm not familiar with the ML system, at all. I just googled and saw the MSRP was like an order of magnitude larger than the MB42x. The MB42xs are pretty good for super-budget speakers, but they don't have much low end, especially if you want to play above sitting-at-a-desk-2-feet-away levels. I switched to some Infinity fronts because I wasn't happy with how high I had to crossover the MB42x & subwoofer. I am using the MB42xs for my computer speakers and surrounds and they aren't bad with some EQ. If the MLs aren't very good at all, it might make sense to switch to the MB42s, but I think you might be better off getting a couple front speakers and maybe a new sub. Then you have the remaining 5 MLs to use to finish out a 7.1 or 5.1.2 setup. What is your receiver?
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Sep 11, 2016 17:34
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taqueso posted:I'm not familiar with the ML system, at all. I just googled and saw the MSRP was like an order of magnitude larger than the MB42x. The MB42xs are pretty good for super-budget speakers, but they don't have much low end, especially if you want to play above sitting-at-a-desk-2-feet-away levels. I switched to some Infinity fronts because I wasn't happy with how high I had to crossover the MB42x & subwoofer. I am using the MB42xs for my computer speakers and surrounds and they aren't bad with some EQ. The picked up the ML system on newegg for $300 ish a few years back. The speakers are good, and the sub is average. I just thought if I could sell my ML set for $300 ish, I could switch to the Miccas and mono price. The review for the sub are quite good. My receiver is a Marantz AV7005. I should mention that I have a separate, dedicated home theater with projector. The Marantz and ML's are my "small" living room system with a Sony tv.
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Sep 11, 2016 18:49
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| # ? May 17, 2024 21:12 |
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I thought if you could sell the MLs for a bit more than the Miccas the profit might make the effort worth it. If you're just trying to break even I don't see the point. It'll be a crossgrade at best.
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Sep 11, 2016 19:18
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