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Sep 13, 2016 16:03
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garyfischermanisanidiot2015
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Sep 13, 2016 16:21
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https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5784380496.html This would be so pretty if the stance was unfucked. I don't need another Miata, especially a short nose...look away, blk, look away...
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Sep 16, 2016 19:02
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The fact that it's a $4,000 1.6 with a junk suspension should be enough to keep looking away.
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Sep 17, 2016 01:47
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The hard top by itself is around a thousand bux here. So really a $3000 1.6 short nose. Possibly decent if the rest is in great shape. Like amazing shape with fresh bushings.
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Sep 17, 2016 04:29
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Even though it was clearly owned by an idiot, it's a decent deal IF it's in as good shape as it looks/should be for being a 70k mile car. Pretty easy to unfuck it if the fenders aren't destroyed from a poor roll job.
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Sep 18, 2016 01:03
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destructo posted:Even though it was clearly owned by an idiot, it's a decent deal IF it's in as good shape as it looks/should be for being a 70k mile car. Pretty easy to unfuck it if the fenders aren't destroyed from a poor roll job. Pretty smoky inside, boooooooo
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Sep 18, 2016 01:50
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So I bought a 1997 M edition that's somewhat modified. I've been tinkering and sorting out minor issues. One remaining issue is that the brake light is always on. I've traced that to the sensor that's in the reservoir of the master cylinder, when that sensor is unplugged the light goes off. The brake fluid level is fine (it's sitting exactly at the max fill line). The float itself does float. For anyone who's rebuilt a master cylinder, and specifically the reservoir, is it possible to replace that switch/sensor/thinger? Does it require draining the reservoir? I think it's this part 43-540A http://www.mazdastuff.com/Mazda-Part-Number-Index-p/nc72-43-540a.htm Here's a part diagram  if it helps.
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Sep 19, 2016 18:10
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Excedrin posted:when that sensor is unplugged the light goes off. The answer is somewhere here.
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Sep 19, 2016 21:19
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I know the sensor/switch thingy is bad, I'm asking if anyone has experience with fixing or replacing one, I don't see how it fits together or whether it's possible to do without draining all the brake fluid.
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Sep 19, 2016 21:44
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It's external to the master, snaps into place.
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Sep 19, 2016 21:57
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Thanks! I didn't see how to remove it or how it worked, now I know, it's a reed switch and it seems to be fine. Here's a pic of the insides (there's a tiny roll pin that holds the outer casing on)  When I hook my meter to the leads it beeps briefly, then goes silent, when I put a magnet next to it, it has a constant tone. So I'm thinking maybe there was/is a magnet on the float (or it's supposed to be on the float) and maybe now it's just hanging out in the bottom of the reservoir, I'll go check and report back. edit: there's a 500 ohm resistor on the other side edit2: Nope, float is fine, magnet is in the right place etc, has to be this reed switch, not sure exactly how but I'll get a new one and compare Excedrin fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Sep 20, 2016 |
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Sep 20, 2016 01:10
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Excedrin posted:has to be this reed switch, not sure exactly how but I'll get a new one and compare You wasted more time on that switch than I would have. If the local auto parts store doesn't have it, get one from a junkyard.
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Sep 20, 2016 04:04
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Silly question, I've got a 90 Miata. I still have the original seats with the headrest speakers. If I replace the head unit, can I keep the headrest speaker functionality?
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Sep 20, 2016 15:53
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Yeah, they're just two small speakers in the headrest.
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Sep 20, 2016 15:54
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Anyone have old (crappy is fine) 1.6l Turbo manifolds laying around? T2 flange. Trying to mock something up and i can't find any T2s for under $Texas.
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Sep 21, 2016 05:50
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Hello! I'm looking to buy an NA Miata. I'm going to race the car. I want to have clear direction on how to build up the car. Who can show me where I might be able to find the rules to different spec Miata classes? Preferably something cheaper to run in, but not autox. Also, which year/version NA might be best for this? I don't want to take a perfectly good road car off the street if I'm going to replace most of its desirable components. I live in Connecticut, if location dictates a regional organization or something. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Sep 21, 2016 |
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Sep 21, 2016 14:03
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um excuse me posted:Hello! I'm looking to buy an NA Miata. I'm going to race the car. I want to have clear direction on how to build up the car. Who can show me where I might be able to find the rules to different spec Miata classes? Preferably something cheaper to run in, but not autox. Buy someone else's race car. It will save you lots of money in the long run.
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Sep 21, 2016 14:05
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Buy a midpack Spec Miata for 10k and then read the rule books for both NASA's SM and PT* classes.
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Sep 21, 2016 14:42
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Yes buy someone else's money pit race car. This rule also applies to restoring a car.
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Sep 21, 2016 15:54
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At SCCA National Championships level, you want a '99, last I checked. Otherwise it probably doesn't matter a hell of a lot, but the 1.8 cars are probably better than the 1.6 cars.
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Sep 21, 2016 16:03
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um excuse me posted:Hello! I'm looking to buy an NA Miata. I'm going to race the car. I want to have clear direction on how to build up the car. Who can show me where I might be able to find the rules to different spec Miata classes? Preferably something cheaper to run in, but not autox. Rules are on the SCCA web site and NASA's web site. Watch out for cars that haven't been raced in awhile, they may need some updating to go racing again. Belts need replaced every few years and rule changes to cages, fire systems, etc may have been added that would need done before you can go racing.
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Sep 21, 2016 17:17
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Looking at NASA in your area PTE doesn't appear to be a class that actually has anyone running in it. So if you want to run NASA build a Spec Miata. I have no idea how SCCA works, there are a million regions/divisions/series and none of it makes sense from the outside. Spec Miata, ITA or STL are the classes Miatas typically run in. TL;DR Build/buy a Spec Miata using a 1999 chassis.
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Sep 22, 2016 03:49
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I really appreciate the help fellas. Not sure what I'll end up doing, but you guys have set me up to take a step in the right direction.
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Sep 22, 2016 14:22
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FatCow posted:Looking at NASA in your area PTE doesn't appear to be a class that actually has anyone running in it. So if you want to run NASA build a Spec Miata. I have no idea how SCCA works, there are a million regions/divisions/series and none of it makes sense from the outside. Spec Miata, ITA or STL are the classes Miatas typically run in. SCCA biased guy here - just stick with the TL;DR version. Improved Touring is a regionals (or whatever they call regionals this week) only class anyway, is going to be a little more expensive than Spec Miata, not a hell of a lot faster, and have fewer people running... and you can just run a Spec Miata in it anyway and be close to on pace if you're good. STL is cool but you can just run a Spec Miata in it and be mid-pack with all the other people running Spec Miatas in STL. E-Production, F-Production and STU are also viable Miata classes but all of them get to be big money, big maintenance needs, and harder to drive. Dad and I made the jump from an IT class RX-7 to an EP class one and once we got behind the 8-ball on maintenance, stuff constantly breaking at the track almost killed our desire to keep racing. So just build/buy a '99 Spec Miata if you want to try to win championships, or some other year if you just want to go racing; the "other year" ones might be significantly cheaper and in all seriousness I'm skeptical that even if the 99 is minutely better, it's enough to matter for even 90% of a Nationals field. If you're smart, you put a couple sets of class letters on the side - ITA, STL and SM will typically be in at least two run groups, and since an SM will be legal and competitive-ish for all 3, you can typically run twice as many sessions per day as normal, maybe even three times... which is the real Spec Miata secret.
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Sep 22, 2016 14:26
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The 1.6 cars have gotten some good allowances this year. We can now port the exhaust manifolds since the welds inside them are all different, it's good for 1-3hp. We're also allowed to remove the driver side turn signal housing to get cooler air to the intake. In the northwest region we have a lot more 1.6 cars and all the front runners here are using them. At the big rose cup race we had a mazda factory driver in a 99 car that ended up coming in 5th out of 36. They were all pretty close though. I'm not sure how it is with regions on the eastern side of the country though. It seems to depend on the track too since the 1.6's are lower weight and we can either use the torsen or mazdaspeed(maybe cusco now) clutch type LSD. I've heard they're better for more technical tracks because of those things.
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Sep 22, 2016 23:44
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41 out of 47 cars at the runoffs this year are NBs, and most of those are 99s, but like I said, I suspect some of that is confirmation bias - the fast guys run 99s because the other fast guys say the 99 is the car to have and they have the ability to put together whatever, so the 99s are fastest. But then, like I said, none of this is going to matter for most drivers anyway.
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Sep 23, 2016 00:49
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mekilljoydammit posted:41 out of 47 cars at the runoffs this year are NBs, and most of those are 99s, but like I said, I suspect some of that is confirmation bias - the fast guys run 99s because the other fast guys say the 99 is the car to have and they have the ability to put together whatever, so the 99s are fastest. But then, like I said, none of this is going to matter for most drivers anyway. Well poo poo. That doesn't help anyone see if the 1.6 improvements really helped them either. Oh well, I'm still happy with my 1.6 even though it dropped a valve at the last racing during my co-drivers race. I was planning on getting a "pro" built head and rebuilding the bottom end anyways, so not that big of a deal. Hopefully that and actually getting the car corner balanced and aligned for me will help me get closer to the front of the mid-pack.  
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Sep 23, 2016 08:00
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Fastest NA in qualifying was around 0.8 off pole and qualified 16th out of 45. Jesse Prather was 1.5 seconds off pole in an NA too. Of course we'll see how the race turns out and all that jazz; does seem like some fast guys are trying the NA solution though.
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Sep 23, 2016 14:02
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2XAsGInQds Clip of me drifting the $600 1.8 Swapped Miata. I'm getting a little bit better at it 
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Sep 24, 2016 18:14
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I'm away for two weeks and winter is coming, so today I stashed away my MX-5 for the winter. Will miss her. 
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Sep 25, 2016 18:17
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Jeez, the weather just broke for the first time today. It's been brutal this year.
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Sep 25, 2016 18:32
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Have a little video of driving slow at this years "miatas in boone" events. Forgive the music, all it is covering up is wind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ushAfALxKO8 I have some cool faster POV stuff i might post over the next few weeks. MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Sep 25, 2016 |
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Sep 25, 2016 18:56
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double yellow
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Sep 25, 2016 19:18
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next time point the camera forward so i can see the truck before it hits you
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Sep 25, 2016 19:21
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That can be arranged (Forward facing videos coming).
MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 25, 2016 19:53
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Phone posted:double yellow HA, look at who's talking.
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Sep 25, 2016 22:16
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at least make it count
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Sep 25, 2016 22:37
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I was asked to join a group of friends as a part of their SCCA "team." Does my NC require a roll bar if I were to autoX it?
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Sep 25, 2016 23:50
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You only need a rollbar for HPDE. If you've rolled a car at autocross, half a dozen things went terribly wrong.
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Sep 25, 2016 23:54
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