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SL the Pyro posted:I'm just more wary of it since it's someone else's computer that I'm building and he doesn't like the idea of more cooling with a replacement cooler (which I can understand, replacing the stock fan with an over-the-counter megafan is an irritating process). I didn't notice anyone addressing this. It's true that replacing a stock heatsink with an aftermarket is an annoying hassle, because you need to install the backplate. But since you are building from the ground up this is not a concern. Aftermarket coolers are better and quieter, but a significant advantage is also that the attachment they use is much better than the lovely one-use push-pins on the stock Intel. I'd consider aftermarket coolers easier to install.
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Sep 27, 2016 05:42
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Yeah, installing an aftermarket cooler isn't too big a deal if you're doing it outside the case on a fresh CPU/mobo. A backplate involves slightly more motherboard gymnastics than pushpins and you need to make sure you tighten the screws properly (alternating corners in a sort of hourglass pattern and not tightening them too hard) but it's maybe 2 extra minutes of basic assembly and paying attention. If he ends up really not wanting to deal with it then you have a fine i5-6600 build to fall back on.
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Sep 27, 2016 08:09
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My very aged computer of almost 6 years has bit the dust and it was due for a replacement anyway. What country are you in? US What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Gaming What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. $1500ish If you're gaming what is your monitor resolution? 1080 at the moment but I plan on upgrading to 1440 in the near future. Heres what Ive put together on PC partspicker so far. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: *Asus Z170-E ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($92.98 @ Newegg) Memory: *GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($56.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($158.57 @ B&H) Storage: *Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($82.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB TURBO Video Card ($608.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Best Buy) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.88 @ OutletPC) Total: $1526.37 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-27 03:10 EDT-0400 This will be my first self built computer so despite some lurking I'm not 100% sure this will all go together, I took one of their builds and swapped some parts around. The case in partcular I have no idea what I would want, something roomy and easy for a first timer to work with I guess. Also it would be nice to shave that cost down a little bit more of anyone could think of a way without sacrifcing performance too much.
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Sep 27, 2016 08:39
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I'm planning on building my first pc in the near future, but I'm pretty flexible time-wise. Is it likely there will be sales on video cards by the holidays or will prices more or less stay what they are untill the next generation comes about?
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Sep 27, 2016 09:22
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Axetrain posted:Heres what Ive put together on PC partspicker so far. The 1080 is a place where you could probably save ~$150 off the bat. A decent 1070 will work fine for your current and immediate-future resolution, unless you're planning on buying a 21:9 1440p high-refresh-rate widescreen or a 4K display, in which case a 1080 would be a good idea. I'm personally not enamored with GeIL memory, and generally stick to Corsair's LP/LPX line (none of that ultra-huge heat spreader crap). It'll be about $20-25 more expensive, and consider going with DDR4-3000, as DDR4 does benefit from speed boosts. Also, Corsair's North American service structure is akin to eVGA's in terms of structure and quality (wow, that sounds really 'shilly'). As for a 'roomy' case, the Corsair Air 540 is what I use, with some rubber feet that allow me to turn it on its side so it looks like a squashed Borg Cube. Corsair just put out a new version of it, but it's a giant cube with no 5.25" bays, even though optical drives are kind of going the way of the Dodo. Still, if 'roominess' is what you want, the Air series are definitely up to the task, they're just ~big~ (and the 540's ~$30 more expensive than the 400C). kanonvandekempen posted:I'm planning on building my first pc in the near future, but I'm pretty flexible time-wise. Is it likely there will be sales on video cards by the holidays or will prices more or less stay what they are untill the next generation comes about? With the exception of promo codes, expect the prices to stay pretty static until we get closer to AMD releasing Vega, or nVidia confirming the 'realness' of a 1080Ti, which should (in theory) spur a $50-100 price cut across the board ($50 for the 1070, ~$100 for the 1080). I've no way of backing this up, it's just kind of what happened the last time when they trotted out the 980Ti. Speaking of which, you can get a 1070 Windforce now through Jet for ~$360 using their TRIPLE15 code and waiving free returns/paying with a debit card: https://jet.com/product/Gigabyte-GeForce-GTX-1070-Windforce-OC-8gb-Gddr5-Dvi-Hdmi-3xdp/b979579e8c504f119b87289be0f4b26e BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 09:46 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 09:40
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Is there any reason to not go with an M.2 SSD if the price is the same?
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Sep 27, 2016 11:39
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Mad Katter posted:Is there any reason to not go with an M.2 SSD if the price is the same? Other than the fact that you're limiting yourself with regards to form factor, not really. If the M.2 slot you're thinking of populating is NVMe-ready, let the good times roll. If it's merely SATA-linked, you could go either way. That being said, going M.2 means if you ever need to copy or clone data from it, you'll need an enclosure for it or an ability/means to image it (if we're talking about a laptop here). That's a whole lot easier to do with a 2.5" SSD with the standardized SATA connector, and likely will be for most of the next decade. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 12:42
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If my motherboard has a PCIe X4 M.2 slot that means it's NVMe ready right? It doesn't specifically mention NVMe in the manual or anything. edit: nevermind I am blind, it's in the manual 
d0s fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 13:14
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HMS Boromir posted:CPU improvements have been glacial since about a year before you bought yours. You'll get about as much performance going from a stock 3570K to an overclocked one as you will from a 3570K to a 6600K, only it'll cost you $35 instead of $450. Pick up a cooler and you can probably laugh all the way to 2018 unless you pick up a CPU bottlenecked game that just barely doesn't perform. Col.Kiwi posted:Yes Sweet thanks guys, I'm gonna get a 2400mhz 8x2GB ram kit to replace the current 1600mhz 4x2. Do you reckon the current Antec 550w truepower can handle an oc'ed 3570 plus 1070? Actually I don't even mind finding out the hard way since the psu is 4+ years old anyway, but I'm worried the hard way involves a blown psu taking out the other components too versus just the psu going pop and having to swap it out e: Just googled the cryorig h7, that part about angling to avoid ram clearance issues is loving awesome. I've been trying to find a set of ram thats both 1. available in stores and 2. not the height of mount everest. This makes it much easier thanks boromir! LUBE UP YOUR BUTT fucked around with this message at 13:25 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 13:16
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Other than the fact that you're limiting yourself with regards to form factor, not really. If the M.2 slot you're thinking of populating is NVMe-ready, let the good times roll. If it's merely SATA-linked, you could go either way. That being said, going M.2 means if you ever need to copy or clone data from it, you'll need an enclosure for it or an ability/means to image it (if we're talking about a laptop here). That's a whole lot easier to do with a 2.5" SSD with the standardized SATA connector, and likely will be for most of the next decade. Interesting, thanks!
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Sep 27, 2016 13:52
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LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:Sweet thanks guys, I'm gonna get a 2400mhz 8x2GB ram kit to replace the current 1600mhz 4x2. Do you reckon the current Antec 550w truepower can handle an oc'ed 3570 plus 1070? Actually I don't even mind finding out the hard way since the psu is 4+ years old anyway, but I'm worried the hard way involves a blown psu taking out the other components too versus just the psu going pop and having to swap it out
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Sep 27, 2016 13:53
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Other than the fact that you're limiting yourself with regards to form factor, not really. If the M.2 slot you're thinking of populating is NVMe-ready, let the good times roll. If it's merely SATA-linked, you could go either way. That being said, going M.2 means if you ever need to copy or clone data from it, you'll need an enclosure for it or an ability/means to image it (if we're talking about a laptop here). That's a whole lot easier to do with a 2.5" SSD with the standardized SATA connector, and likely will be for most of the next decade. It should be noted that you can get M.2->2.5" adapters on Newegg for like $7, so form factor is not a huge barrier to reusing the drive elsewhere.
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Sep 27, 2016 14:16
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Weird situation with a weird question: I'm fixing a work computer for a small business that I work at. Lightning fried the PSU and the replacement I've been provided has a 4 pin connector for a 6 pin graphics card. I don't intend to run any games on the machine (maybe RuneScape lol) but I do need it running since there isn't any integrated graphics. Could I just use a molex cable to power the card? I hope this makes sense.
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Sep 27, 2016 14:49
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Agoat posted:Weird situation with a weird question: You can buy this kind of thing 
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Sep 27, 2016 14:58
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Agoat posted:I hope this makes sense.
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Sep 27, 2016 14:59
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I actually may have used the wrong name for the thing I bought. I have the image above, just with one connector on each end. If it's not a good idea to just have one I can find one like the image above. I'm aware it's not the right PSU, but I'm doing office work so I'm not in need of graphics power. 
Agoat fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 15:11
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Agoat posted:I actually may have used the wrong name for the thing I bought. I have the image above, just with one connector on each end. If it's not a good idea to just have one I can find one like the image above. So what you have looks like this?  I would expect that it's safe to run it like that but if the GPU demands spike and the wattage can't be provided in a stable fashion because it's only on one PSU rail or something you might have GPU hard resets and failures etc.
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Sep 27, 2016 15:20
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That's what I have! I don't plan on running anything aside from Office 365. Maybe RuneScape on low settings (lol). I built my home PC but used a website to make sure the parts fit. Would something failing cause damage or just shut down the PC?
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Sep 27, 2016 16:13
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BIG HEADLINE posted:The 1080 is a place where you could probably save ~$150 off the bat. A decent 1070 will work fine for your current and immediate-future resolution, unless you're planning on buying a 21:9 1440p high-refresh-rate widescreen or a 4K display, in which case a 1080 would be a good idea. Thanks for the response. Does the 1070 perform really well at 1440p? I will probably grab a 1440p gsync monitor closer to the holidays and I want to run new titles on very high settings. The 1080 is still withing my budget but $360 for a 1070 seems like a really good deal and has me reconsidering. That 540 case looks a little over the top I didnt mean to imply I wanted some monster case just something without a cramped interior and easy cable management. Ill take your advice on the memory. This is probably a really dumb question but without an optical drive is the only way to install windows a flash drive or is there a way to download it from the BIOS? TIA.
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Sep 27, 2016 17:31
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Axetrain posted:Thanks for the response. Does the 1070 perform really well at 1440p? I will probably grab a 1440p gsync monitor closer to the holidays and I want to run new titles on very high settings. The 1080 is still withing my budget but $360 for a 1070 seems like a really good deal and has me reconsidering. That 540 case looks a little over the top I didnt mean to imply I wanted some monster case just something without a cramped interior and easy cable management. Ill take your advice on the memory. I have a 1070 with a 144hz GSync and it works really well. Most "high end" games don't peg 144HZ, but comfortably sit around 90-105 on ultra (I also have a 2500k and 8GB of somewhat slow RAM, so you can expect somewhat better on top). Obviously with Gsync this rules pretty hard. If you are one of those people who need everything on all the time and will not accept 143HZ then you'll not be happy, otherwise it's a great combo. And for Windows you'll need external flash, DVD drive, or copy the install files to a HDD then run it from there.
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Sep 27, 2016 17:41
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Lockback posted:I have a 1070 with a 144hz GSync and it works really well. Most "high end" games don't peg 144HZ, but comfortably sit around 90-105 on ultra (I also have a 2500k and 8GB of somewhat slow RAM, so you can expect somewhat better on top). Obviously with Gsync this rules pretty hard. If you are one of those people who need everything on all the time and will not accept 143HZ then you'll not be happy, otherwise it's a great combo. That's actually really interesting because I have the same monitor (1440p 144hz g-sync IPS) and a 980ti with a 4790k at 4.6ghz, 16gb RAM and I wondered how the 10xx cards fare. I bet you're at the point now where you'd benefit largely from a new CPU as modern multithreaded games become more common.
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Sep 27, 2016 18:14
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VelociBacon posted:That's actually really interesting because I have the same monitor (1440p 144hz g-sync IPS) and a 980ti with a 4790k at 4.6ghz, 16gb RAM and I wondered how the 10xx cards fare. I bet you're at the point now where you'd benefit largely from a new CPU as modern multithreaded games become more common. If your 980ti is overclocked the difference between that and a 1070 is mostly game dependent. I don't think many games benefit from hyperthreaded 8 cores vs the 4 cores of a i5 (and mine is OC'd to 4.5GHZ), but yeah the 2500k is probably near the barrier where an upgrade makes sense. Not bad for a 2011 purchase! I'm going to see what KabyLake looks like in retail form and make my upgrade decision then. The nice thing about Gsync monitors is even if I am CPU-bound on my FPS it has to drop much lower before I really notice/care.
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Sep 27, 2016 18:42
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LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:Do you reckon the current Antec 550w truepower can handle an oc'ed 3570 plus 1070? Actually I don't even mind finding out the hard way since the psu is 4+ years old anyway, but I'm worried the hard way involves a blown psu taking out the other components too versus just the psu going pop and having to swap it out
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Sep 27, 2016 20:28
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Man, I am never buying from Superbiiz again, all my other stuff has arrived already and they haven't even shipped yet. I think its also the only place I ended up having to pay shipping on too.
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Sep 27, 2016 21:10
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Looking for a review of the below. Aiming to run 4 monitors: 2x 2048x1152 Samsung 2343BWX 2x 1280x1024 Dell 1707FP Any gaming is done on just one of the 2048x1152 screens. Don't play anything hardcore. Toughest thing is likely XCOM:EW, Wasteland 2, or Borderlands 2. Nothing modern. SSDs will be in RAID1 as I put great value in system availability. Backups will be to both the cloud and local to another PC. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($308.90 @ DirectCanada) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.37 @ DirectCanada) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Newegg Canada) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg Canada) Storage: Sandisk X400 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($316.34 @ DirectCanada) Storage: Sandisk X400 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($316.34 @ DirectCanada) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($336.26 @ DirectCanada) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($49.98 @ DirectCanada) Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($97.87 @ DirectCanada) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($115.48 @ DirectCanada) Total: $1851.52 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-27 16:50 EDT-0400
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Sep 27, 2016 21:56
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Lockback posted:I have a 1070 with a 144hz GSync and it works really well. Most "high end" games don't peg 144HZ, but comfortably sit around 90-105 on ultra (I also have a 2500k and 8GB of somewhat slow RAM, so you can expect somewhat better on top). Obviously with Gsync this rules pretty hard. If you are one of those people who need everything on all the time and will not accept 143HZ then you'll not be happy, otherwise it's a great combo. Thats pretty impressive actually, I think I will save some dough and go with a 1070. So my final build would look like this. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: *Asus Z170-E ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($92.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($158.57 @ B&H) Storage: *Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($82.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: *Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Mini ITX OC Video Card ($397.00 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $1247.50 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-27 16:59 EDT-0400 Except I will go with that $360 windforce 1070 instead of the placeholder one listed here. Unless anyone can spot any red flags or offer any more advice I guess ill start ordering it later tonight.
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Sep 27, 2016 22:13
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What country are you in? UK What are you using the system for? Home use - web and gaming. What's your budget? £1000.00 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? See below So I think this will be the core of my build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£174.00 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£77.90 @ More Computers) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£69.98 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£133.08 @ Aria PC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card (£237.99 @ Ebuyer) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£70.97 @ Amazon UK) Total: £763.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-27 22:08 BST+0100 How does the above look? The website is estimating power consumption to be 266W, so I guess the PSU is fine. Probably will get Win10. The three things I think I am missing is case, monitor and keyboard. I am guessing case is something that you want to spend enough on that you get good airflow etc, but not to go too nuts on? I really don't care about aesthetics, so how low can I go in terms of price? I am unsure about the monitor. I can see from benchmarks that the 1060 is probably best with a 1080p monitor, but that is pretty much the extent of my knowledge. Is the OP in the monitor thread still relevant? It was last updated in 2013 and the current discussion in their seems to be high end 4K stuff. I'm moving from a laptop to desktop so will need a keyboard. Again, no idea how much to spend or what to look for (other than comfort I guess). I have a mouse though  Finally, would it be possible to transfer my laptops hard drive into the desktop? This would mean I could save some money reducing the SSD capacity. Incoming Chinchilla fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 22:22
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Eregos posted:After searching this thread for Soundcard talk, I figured I'd drop in and ask a couple questions and describe my situation. I'm currently leaning towards Soundblaster X-fi Titanium because 1. I require TOSLINK optical audio input. 2. I will use creative alchemy to restore EAX to a bunch of older games. 3. Given lack of audio advancement, I'm leaning towards using new studio quality headphones, maybe bose quietcomforts directly out of the rear jack, so I'll actually benefit from the soundcard. Lots of newer headphones have their own drivers that don't utilize the soundcard. 4. I might get a true surround 7.1 speaker system in the future and 5. Good experiences with Creative - I'm still using my SB X-fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro that I got in 2006 in another PC.( I was gonna just move it over but there was some kind of driver bullshit where windows 10 wouldn't take digital audio input. I can't find any google results at the moment but it was a pain, and could be the bane of any new potential card). But its occurred to me I have no idea what audio advancements have been made in the past 10 years and what new features I might want. From what I've seen in this thread, people seem convinced that onboard audio/processing from headphone software drivers/whatever (maybe videocards also do it now? dunno) is good enough that you don't need a soundcard, meaning the advancements of the past few years wouldn't really interest me and I can freely pretend the last 8 years didn't happen by ordering this older card. Anybody happen to know what the build quality difference is between the SB Titanium and the SB Pro series? It'd be nice to know my next soundcard is also likely to last 10 years. EAX and any other notion of hardware audio processing died, and everything got wrapped up into APIs (simplistically put) / DirectX/Directsound3d/etc. If you need TOSLINK input then I guess you need a soundcard or a very specific mobo, but for any other use you almost certainly don't. Sound on a decent motherboard is on-par with sound on very good soundcards, they're not a requirement for good sound at all. You also mention bose in your post so I generally suspect your judgement 
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Sep 27, 2016 22:58
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Diminishing returns for keyboards starts at about $7.
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Sep 27, 2016 23:02
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ItBurns posted:Diminishing returns for keyboards starts at about $7. Heresy! I will fight you with my Rosewill RK-9000V2 BR! No, literally, I could easily club you to death with the thing if I could bear to stop using it long enough to do so.
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Sep 27, 2016 23:06
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My last post didn't get any responses, probably since it was awfully vague, but I've made some hardware decisions and I hope that this time it will be more encouraging. I also got in touch today with the chap who fixed my current gaming rig when the mainboard died and he said that he would assemble this new machine for a very reasonable fee, so there's some good news. Here is what I have in mind for some of the main components as I have a pretty generous budget. Let me say that I have no intention of doing any overclocking as it is rather risky and beyond my tech level, so if I'm about to buy anything at a premium that is designed for that, please warn me: GeForce GTX 1070 (about $390) i7 670K @ 4.0Ghz ($333 on Amazon) Samsung 850 Evo 500 GB (~$165) - I plan to get an HDD as well as a backup storage drive, but 500 GB on an SSD will last me ages. I have no thoughts yet on a mainboard or case, and I need to make sure that I have adequate cooling I would love suggestions regarding RAM - I would like to go 2x8 and I want to get the highest BUS speed that I can before the price spikes, as it always does The tech guy I am hiring to do the assembly recommended a "modular" power supply, which I'd never heard of, but I'm happy as long as it is powerful enough for the hardware. I really want to continue using my current OS (Win7x64 Ultimate) on this new machine as A) I love Win 7 while the Win 10 on my laptop gets up my nose and B) New OSs are very expensive. I would also like to look into an external optical drive for this machine and my laptop. I probably can't afford a Blu-Ray burner, but something that can read Blu-Ray and also read/burn dual-layer DVDs (I still use those occasionally) would be great. I hope that you can help me finish out this rig. I would like to start ordering parts. Thanks in advance.
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Sep 27, 2016 23:52
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axelsoar posted:Man, I am never buying from Superbiiz again, all my other stuff has arrived already and they haven't even shipped yet. I think its also the only place I ended up having to pay shipping on too. SuperBiiz and OutletPC are poo poo retailers that hide low prices behind high shipping, have awful customer service, and sell used items as new. This should be in the OP if it isn't already.
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Sep 28, 2016 00:02
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ItBurns posted:Diminishing returns for keyboards starts at about $7. I love my Logitech g910 because of the cool customizable color backlight and the fact that I can spill yogurt on it and not worry about it getting inside because of how the keycaps fit over the keys. I was able to pop all of them off and clean in between each mechanism without any gunk getting anywhere near the electronics. The design doesn't protect against liquid but something thick is good. JustJeff88 posted:My last post didn't get any responses, probably since it was awfully vague, but I've made some hardware decisions and I hope that this time it will be more encouraging. I also got in touch today with the chap who fixed my current gaming rig when the mainboard died and he said that he would assemble this new machine for a very reasonable fee, so there's some good news. Switch the CPU to an i5 6600 (non k. K cpus are unlocked for overclocking, cost more, and don't come with a fan.) since you said you aren't overclocking and unless you know a reason to get the i7 over an i5 you don't need one. That will save you around $130 and you can use that to get an external Blu-ray burner. The extra clock speed you'll get on the i7 (looking at boost clocks it's 4.2 for the i7 and 3.9 for the i5) is probably not going to be noticeable and the hyperthreading is probably not going to be useful either unless you know why you need hyperthreading. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Sep 28, 2016 |
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Sep 28, 2016 01:01
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ItBurns posted:Diminishing returns for keyboards starts at about $7. Depends on how much you like your hands.
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Sep 28, 2016 02:42
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Neo_Crimson posted:SuperBiiz and OutletPC are poo poo retailers that hide low prices behind high shipping, have awful customer service, and sell used items as new. The order finally shipped and it will be here... on Monday. Never shop from Superbiiz, christ.
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Sep 28, 2016 04:32
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Well I just finished ordering my parts and made sure to avoid Superbiiz. It looks everything should arrive by early next week, and the only significant shipping cost was 10$ for the case.
Axetrain fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Sep 28, 2016 |
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Sep 28, 2016 06:02
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Khablam posted:EAX and any other notion of hardware audio processing died, and everything got wrapped up into APIs (simplistically put) / DirectX/Directsound3d/etc. I mentioned Bose because I'm still on the hunt for main PC headphones that are both around-ear and noise cancelling. Whether at home or at work I'm often in noisy environments and so I need both top sound quality and noise cancellation. Around-ear designs are also naturally noise isolating. A friend of mine who is also a goon has sworn by his Bose quietcomforts for years, and they're also excellent to bring with you while travelling. Having tried other pairs of headphones, I'm quite firm in thinking the most noise isolation you can get will always be an around-ear noise cancelling design. The only thing that might be even better would be noise-cancelling earbuds, with sound-deadening ear protection on top, but I would need to know that would be comfortable to wear over long periods of time. It's a shame the human body didn't evolve with the ability to temporarily deactivate hearing, it would make things a lot simpler. All the noise-cancelling around-ears I've seen thus far are studio quality and cost at least $250.
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Sep 28, 2016 10:52
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Eregos posted:I mentioned Bose because I'm still on the hunt for main PC headphones that are both around-ear and noise cancelling. Whether at home or at work I'm often in noisy environments and so I need both top sound quality and noise cancellation. Around-ear designs are also naturally noise isolating. A friend of mine who is also a goon has sworn by his Bose quietcomforts for years, and they're also excellent to bring with you while travelling. Having tried other pairs of headphones, I'm quite firm in thinking the most noise isolation you can get will always be an around-ear noise cancelling design. The only thing that might be even better would be noise-cancelling earbuds, with sound-deadening ear protection on top, but I would need to know that would be comfortable to wear over long periods of time. It's a shame the human body didn't evolve with the ability to temporarily deactivate hearing, it would make things a lot simpler. All the noise-cancelling around-ears I've seen thus far are studio quality and cost at least $250. if you work in an airplane then youd be right but noise cancelling works by taking sound outside the headphones and playing back an inverse of it. this means it works really well for constant sounds like the hum of an airplane but not very with sounds that stop and start, or constantly change in pitch and amplitude (i.e. voices). fwiw i have a pair of qc25s and theyre awesome for flying
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Sep 28, 2016 13:04
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My Shure SRH 1540s isolate well and are generally great headphones but maybe a touch pricey.
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Sep 28, 2016 13:09
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I bought some cruddy Symph headphones for 28 bones a couple months ago and they are on par or better than any ~$100 pair I've ever purchased. I am no audiophile, and admittedly cheap but I swear I feel like I've been wasting money buying overpriced headphones for decades that aren't actually any better quality. Just my experience though fwiw. I realize $100 is a drop of water to a lot of people though.
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Sep 28, 2016 13:22
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